Dubdubz

@Arfur Did the engine start ok every time? 
I might try this too, although my wife used the car every day last week and said it was absolutely fine. 

I must be dreaming but I swore there was a find me a 987.2 thread and then the helpful folks in here popped a load of links etc

I was considering a 981 but the ones that meet the spec seem to be still close to £30k 
My man maths is my well specced 2.7 987.1 (gt silver, cruise, full leather, heated seats PSE, Lobsters, 73K, bose -pioneer Carplay) is worth around £10-11k so another £10k ish should get me a nice 987.2 ie £20k {ish 😉}

I do want a 3.4 and PDK,
I'd like sports chrono (or just sports if that's an option).
Full leather as it does lift the thing you sit in for hours. Sports seats would be nice but as long as heated then I'm ok with the normal ones.
Cruise is lovely so I'd like that- again I could retrofit but it was a mission to get the parts.
I know condition and history is king but Mileage I'd like to keep under 70k unless there was a documented invoices one with all the parts and load of work done type deal.... 
Colour I am not so fussed on but I didn't really want a white one or one with an odd colour leather - I'm boring and like the black leather.
Bose I dont care on, it was a must for my 2.7 but honestly its not all that and I would but a double DIN again as it makes it modern.

Given that some parts are impossible to find - like full leather dash - and would be tiresome to fit then its something that I need it to come with! 
Cruise is probably the one that I'd consider not being there as its possible to fit afterwards.

If I could easily PDK mine and make it quicker then I think I'd do that - but I don't reckon I could buy all the parts from a 987.2 PDK 3.4 for 10g's 🤣

If someone @Araf maybe? could direct me to the thread I cant find - there seems to not be that many around and I do know that I am being a little bit fussy. I'm also hoping that someone will have spotted something I missed. I look on Autotrader, Ebay, Pistonheads almost daily...
 

cheers all

2 hours ago, Philc said:

My 2.9 had a bleeder under the engine cover next to the coolant tank, I’m guessing the confusion comes from earlier models having the bleeder near the filler in the boot and it being moved to undef the engine cover on later models.

You can probably refill without a vacuum filler, but I’ll bet you my car you overheat the engine in the process. Just get a vacuum filler and buy/borrow/hire a compressor if you haven’t got one.

They are not very expensive - perhaps we do a BoXa.net thing like the engine mount drift where it gets posted and sent between people. or someone buys one and rents it out?

Great work - I've not checked mine as yet - do you have any more details of the long studs in the end? as in pitch etc?
And any more pics - did you undo any of the suspension arms/balljoint stuff?

Given me confidence its possible on the drive!

Have you bought a vacuum coolant filler - sure I read this is needed for these - but perhaps someone who knows more can comment?

So I changed the slave cylinder and rebled. 
it is not an easy job. I didn’t drop or move anything other than the rear passenger wheel. 
lots of swearing. 
the bell housing hole needs to be clean, and I also used Vaseline on the rubber boot.

bolt and threaded hole need to be cleaned. I used a tap and die(m8x 1.25) 

then you do have to lever it, there is not enough room or angle to adequately get plunger compressed. I used a screwdriver to help locate the threaded hole. There is a stop to the right, that helps locate and hold whilst you carefully remove screwdriver and insert bolt. 
 

it’s much better, but it’s still not quite right. I’ll monitor it over the next few days. My crappy reverse this morning up a small curb onto my drive did still result in burning rubber clutch smell. 
(I’ll check my purchase, maybe I bought the wrong one?)

maybe I’m just so used to my auto landrover?

not got to checking yet - day job and then dark 🙂 but I have driven the car and had a brief look - all the pedal switches look ok. I did buy a new slave cylinder and the fluid was changed on last service.

The car drives fine most of the time - it is just the slow stuff. 

The other topic which I mentioned is semi related - and does make it tricky to really live the car right now - is the gear shift has play and feels 'off' has done for ages and actually I replaced the front engine mount which was split hoping this would fix this rocking under load and make it all feel tighter. No change. 
when I took the gearbox out the selector stuff did feel sloppy to me but I have no reference, the gearbox brackets themselves - I didn't really check the cables. 

I was hoping to borrow a gopro to see what is moving under there so I can not have to spend 100's. The gearbox mounts didnt feel loose when they were off the car. 
I suppose it could be an abused gearbox, which has play...not sure how I'd check that? there is no noise and the fluid was dirty but had no metal bits in it when I did a change, when box was out for clutch.

So in conclusion I think the rock/movement under load that is felt in the gear lever has to be the rear mounts or play in the box

the In gear but not under load movement is around 0.5 cm - must be the cable or ends or leaver mechanism - it has changed I feel it was not like this 4 years ago ?

50 minutes ago, Jim b said:

Had problems with revs rising and falling when pulling off resulting in stalling, one of these switches had worked loose. Worth a check.

interesting - as actually I did have my clutch switch bypassed but put it back into working as I added Cruise control at the time just after I had done all the work

When you say worked loose - how do mean - was it super obvious?

42 minutes ago, skoosh1970 said:

I agree with Mick, had my original clutch replaced at 150000 miles including flywheel and bolts and wow it's light now and quiet.

Well the original clutch felt fine and I only replaced it as I was in there and it was worn...I reckon I could have left it, but as I tend to be on the do it right side of the fence. I replaced it and the DMF - which also I think was fine but a little worn (when I compared to the new one, it was certainly free'er)

I think I will change the slave cylinder - they seem to be ok money £30-40 and would then be a thing off the list

Its a pedal to clutch operation - if it was cable I'd be looking at adjusting, another way to desribe it is the very fine slight clutch for low speeds - such as reversing. So the creeping or the plunger not holding the arm steady is likely to be quite credible if I think about it. The clutch plate is likely to be stronger on the new as its new perhaps so the spring is pushing and the pressure is kind of pulsing. 

if anyone has had this and knows for definite.... it would be a shame to put another new clutch in....

Pedal and feel can be a bit subjective, so I will try and explain it as clear as I can.

Background, did a ton of work on my 2007 2.7 and due to the RMS weeping, I pulled Gearbox - which then meant that I needed to replace the clutch and DMF as they were worn and it was time.
So new LuK clutch and DMF ordered, and the throw out bearing doodad followed the various guides. All went back together as expected.
I did not replace the slave cylinder or the arm - Clutch slave was bled once.

So the pedal doesn't feel right.
Kind of vague, maybe mushy but the spring makes it feel heavy at points -  the biting point is mid pedal travel I would say, not high or low.
Our drive is on a slope upwards, not much but I have found slow manoeuvres reversing up onto my drive and I get clutch rubber burn smell and often I stall it from apparent lack of low speed control?
Also I have found when holding the car on biting point on a slight incline say at  a roundabout or junction that the revs will hunt which is super weird? so biting point, car not rolling back - and at that time it then seems to hold the car position but the revs will pulse from idle to 1500? ish.
If I put handbrake on clutch in and it all stops so not a idle issue. Also if I take out of gear and clutch out - same - all the rev issues stops.
Its about every second or so - up and down....

At speed it appears to drive fine - no feeling of clutch slipping, no issues with gears up or down.

I was going to i this order
rebleed the slave -  replace the slave - buying a new clutch ?

Its really pee'ing me off and I really want to be fond of the boxster again -  at the minute I just want to punch it in the face...
{The other big issue is the gearshift movement in 3rd particularly, front mount changed - so not sure where that movement is coming from now?}

Thanks for reading thus far .... 

Had a minor service at TH Racing over in Biggleswade - I'd Recommend James - I tend to veer well clear of garages but I do like to keep the service book stamped. 

Did a thorough inspection, oil change,filters etc brake fluid change and commented that it was a good overall example.

I do however need an inner tie rod and the X overs are showing signs of weeping 😞 

Also showed me a front scuttle drain I had missed ! 

I had an order in with Rose and my OPC for 12 months with nothing turning up on either of those - so I was looking at US ebay and getting it shipped - its a bit of a risk as its 2nd hand and you can get stung for tax if the sender is too honest 😉 

I tend to get it shipped free in states to my pal and then he sends on to me ensuring that it doesnt mention its a $200 part and is for a porsche... 

05-13 Porsche 911 997 Turbo Combination Switch Cruise Control Switch 99761326100 | eBay

27 minutes ago, Porschevirgin1968 said:

Well I wonder if this car is hiding something! Called to book viewing for tomorrow, he said he has no bookings available all weekend now. Perhaps he didn't like when I asked about the advisories on the last MOT. Oh well, keep looking, lol. 

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202306158571976?advertising-location=at_cars&atmobcid=soc5&fromSavedAds=true&sort=price-desc

He might have some other stuff to do perhaps? did he offer another time/date?

Well I had the absolute privilege of meeting Mr Hamilton in person who very kindly and expertly coded the cruise. 

And then helped enormously by coding out my CD-R as I’ve replaced it with a modern pioneer.  So my cluster is now looking better too…and no codes!
 

@Richard Hamilton thank you so very much for letting me pitch up on your drive and disturb your early evening. 
Absolute Legend. 
 

never has a little green light made someone so happy….

Cruise makes the 987.1 really nice on the motorways, wish I had done it sooner. 

plus I was getting 36mpg so it was 4hrs and 200miles well spent. 😊😊

28 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Did you say coding only not an install? It should only take 15mins whilst you wait, it's not a whole day job.

Yes just the instrument cluster bit and perhaps do/check the rest in Piwis and not my half ar*e foxwell coding…

Thought I'd start a quick separate thread...

Going to Scotland on 27th - and wanted cruise working and showing the green light.

Tried TWG - can't do it, tried Dovehouse and they can but not before mid August - @Paul P is an option but I wonder if there is anyone closer. Happy to pay of course and travel to you...might need to be a late afternoon so I can finish work>

I'm in Peterborough. Yes I left it way too late... 🙂 

Thanks

Tried local to me and they said - computer says no - said Porsche dealer only 🤬.
I get that they have the right to refuse - I have no issues with that position. The 'We didnt install it therefore no we wont code it.' but to give me misinformation - I know it can be done as there are several on here that have the kit .... so frutstrating.
Going to call Dovehouse now... 

3 hours ago, ½cwt said:

First indy with an apparently good rep I went too really only wanted to work on 911s, preferably air cooled, and his prices for anything reflected this, oh, and then add the VAT!  Sometimes its down to a personal experience, but if others give a bad report then avoid...

I might see the local to me can do it as presumably they could manage a minor service - only doing it to keep the stamps as I'd do it myself otherwise, and use their coding doodad to do the instrument cluster

Thanks I have used Dovehouse and will see if they can fit me in for a service - Rennsport was the other that I was considering. Which is daft as there is a Porsche Indy in the Boro just its not got a good rep....

30 minutes ago, Paul P said:

Interesting.  Gateway isn’t required when coding via piwis.  I have done 2 recently and both have been dme column and cluster. That follows the Porsche doc for retro fit. I guess the foxwell may represent something slightly differently. 
 

when I first coded both cars I scanned them. Both reported a coding error from steering column. I took that to mean it could see the switch. 

I'm tempted to do a road trip down to you - will see if there is anyone closer 😉 first.... 

3 hours ago, Paul P said:

I think the foxwell units lack the instrument cluster coding capability

There are three places to code it.  Dme and steering column to make it work. Instrument cluster to see it happening. 

all I can suggest re checking is to see if your unit has a lamp test function to make sure the light comes on. Outside that. Indy or local enthusiast with a PIWIS seem to be the only routes 

Thanks Paul P - found I also needed to code in the Gateway. So using the NT520 - its steering column switch, DME and Gateway. I still cant get the indicator lamp coded. Also weirdly it wasnt working and then I filled up as it was 25 mile range and then I could get it to work?? So not sure if its user error.
I also could see the stalk voltages in the live data so I knew that I had plugged it in and it was seeing the voltages... so I guess I just need someone to do the notification thing

On 6/21/2023 at 10:38 PM, Dubdubz said:

Cruise control module fitted with all bolts and cabled.

that ⏫ no worky 😞 

But the car is back in one large part as opposed to many many bits - which is good. 

Installed a cruise but its not working - bought cruise kit off a chap on here - coded the DME and the Col switch - I have an NT520 so cant get the dash light part. Is there anyway I can check anything?

Or is there anyone close to Peterborough that I could come visit with Piwis or the full doodad - so I can get the green light coded too?

did you call and ask for more pics? It may have just come in perhaps and its being detailed and photographed?

7 minutes ago, bally4563 said:

Could have lent you one of them as well!!😂

Postage would have been a killer 😂😅😂