What have YOU done to your 986 today ?

[½cwt]

Brought it home after a 5 day excursion to the Isle of Wight.  Some nice roads over there as long as you avoid the traffic as there are few overtaking opportunities.  Best runs were back from dinner at around 10pm when the roads were nearly empty but also wet.

Got to give a shout out to the new GY Asymmetric 6 tyres on the rear.  1000 miles in and in the dry - amazing grip and in the wet, amazing grip for the conditions.  I was on unfamiliar and fairly narrow roads so no hooning, but not once did I feel the rear want to break away even a little bit, stunning compared to previous rubber.

[fizz]

12 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Got to give a shout out to the new GY Asymmetric 6 tyres on the rear.  1000 miles in and in the dry - amazing grip and in the wet, amazing grip for the conditions.  I was on unfamiliar and fairly narrow roads so no hooning, but not once did I feel the rear want to break away even a little bit, stunning compared to previous rubber.

That sounds like high praise. Have you used PS4s on the car in the past as a comparison? Ive found them impressive but dont have anything decent to compare them against as i know the same tyre works differently on different cars. 

[½cwt]

1 hour ago, fizz said:

That sounds like high praise. Have you used PS4s on the car in the past as a comparison? Ive found them impressive but dont have anything decent to compare them against as i know the same tyre works differently on different cars. 

I thought I'd note this a people say how brilliant their new tyres are but rarely report after a period of normal use.  I've not had any M PS4 experience, my recent comparison was with Dunlop Sport Maxx RT2 (still have these on the front) which I found pretty impressive.  Just goes to show how tyres degrade with time and wear.  The Dunlops were changed after about 8k miles and down to near minimum in the inner 1/3 of the tread (rear tracking was out for a while increasing wear) over a 3 year period.

Edited July 28, 2023 by ½cwt

[fizz]

On 7/18/2023 at 5:38 PM, ½cwt said:

butyl tape (to reseal the inner membranes)

Presume this would be the type of tape you're chatting about?

https://amzn.eu/d/152snhm

[fizz]

3 hours ago, ½cwt said:

I've not had any M PS4 experience, my recent comparison was with Dunlop Sport Maxx RT2 (still have these on the front) which I found pretty impressive.

Not knowing the grip difference between the two but i presume with new fresh rears and older fronts you would get a bit more understeer when pushing it along bendy roads?

And yes... initial feedback on new tyres fitted vs long term can be a different story. I used to run Toyo Proxes on my MR2 turbo as they had a softer sidewall compared to the other options and the grip was amazing but my god did they wear out fast. One set of rears lasted me about 5k miles and granted the nature of the turbo delivery didnt help but still.. they fell off the cliff quite quick. 

[½cwt]

44 minutes ago, fizz said:

Not knowing the grip difference between the two but i presume with new fresh rears and older fronts you would get a bit more understeer when pushing it along bendy roads?

And yes... initial feedback on new tyres fitted vs long term can be a different story. I used to run Toyo Proxes on my MR2 turbo as they had a softer sidewall compared to the other options and the grip was amazing but my god did they wear out fast. One set of rears lasted me about 5k miles and granted the nature of the turbo delivery didnt help but still.. they fell off the cliff quite quick. 

Similar experience with Proxes on my Impreza and also Yoko Advan Sports, but I got those at a massive discount at the time (they were a PalmerSport partner supplier) so not too much of a problem.

[½cwt]

1 hour ago, fizz said:

Presume this would be the type of tape you're chatting about?

https://amzn.eu/d/152snhm

I chose this one, a bit thinner at 8mm, but still needed flattening out quite a lot.

[RedBarediver]

I have had some issues with my left rear wheel over the last few weeks. Every so often I would get an awful squealing which lasts for a few minutes and then goes away. Crawling under the car and swearing while staring at the offending wheel seemed to help. I figured this was just, as some on here have suggested, a stone caught between the guard and the disc and it would go away once the stone is worn down or drops out. I wasn't really happy with this but as it was intermittent and hard to pin down exactly what causes it- every time I lift the rear of the car and crawl underneath the squealing had stopped and I couldn't see the cause - I was sort of living with it.

Until yesterday. The squealing was non-stop and it sounded like a stuck pig. very embarrassing to drive around like that. So this morning I lifted the car onto jack stands again, took the wheel off, took the brake pads out completely and turned the rear hub by hand. I could still hear some squealing although not as bad as it was yesterday. Nothing seemed to rub anywhere and I couldn't see any shiny surfaces anywhere. I ran a cloth between the guard and the disc just in case, bent the guard back from the disc a little and checked again. The sound seemed to have gone away but just to be sure I double and triple checked everywhere for anything else. Couldn't see anything so I replaced the pads and put some copper grease on the pin, and then replaced the wear indicators and the wheel. 

Took it for a drive and the stuck pig was finally gone. Whatever I did seemed to have had the desired effect and I can now drive it again without having the embarrassment of a loudly squealing rear wheel announcing my presence to everyone within a 200 metre radius.

I can still hear a slight rubbing when I go around a left hand corner but I'm thinking that is the driveshaft rubbing somewhere. It's not perfect but at least it's liveable now. 

I'll take it for a longer drive a bit later and see how it is. If it starts squealing again I'm redoing the whole thing. I am NOT living with a rear wheel that sounds like that.

[Menoporsche]

2 minutes ago, RedBarediver said:

I can still hear a slight rubbing when I go around a left hand corner but I'm thinking that is the driveshaft rubbing somewhere. It's not perfect but at least it's liveable now.

…until your power steering fluid p*sses out of the new hole in the hose  

[Paul P]

27 minutes ago, RedBarediver said:

I have had some issues with my left rear wheel over the last few weeks. Every so often I would get an awful squealing which lasts for a few minutes and then goes away. Crawling under the car and swearing while staring at the offending wheel seemed to help. I figured this was just, as some on here have suggested, a stone caught between the guard and the disc and it would go away once the stone is worn down or drops out. I wasn't really happy with this but as it was intermittent and hard to pin down exactly what causes it- every time I lift the rear of the car and crawl underneath the squealing had stopped and I couldn't see the cause - I was sort of living with it.

Until yesterday. The squealing was non-stop and it sounded like a stuck pig. very embarrassing to drive around like that. So this morning I lifted the car onto jack stands again, took the wheel off, took the brake pads out completely and turned the rear hub by hand. I could still hear some squealing although not as bad as it was yesterday. Nothing seemed to rub anywhere and I couldn't see any shiny surfaces anywhere. I ran a cloth between the guard and the disc just in case, bent the guard back from the disc a little and checked again. The sound seemed to have gone away but just to be sure I double and triple checked everywhere for anything else. Couldn't see anything so I replaced the pads and put some copper grease on the pin, and then replaced the wear indicators and the wheel. 

Took it for a drive and the stuck pig was finally gone. Whatever I did seemed to have had the desired effect and I can now drive it again without having the embarrassment of a loudly squealing rear wheel announcing my presence to everyone within a 200 metre radius.

I can still hear a slight rubbing when I go around a left hand corner but I'm thinking that is the driveshaft rubbing somewhere. It's not perfect but at least it's liveable now. 

I'll take it for a longer drive a bit later and see how it is. If it starts squealing again I'm redoing the whole thing. I am NOT living with a rear wheel that sounds like that.

Handbrake shoes/springs breaking up ? 

[RedBarediver]

3 hours ago, Menoporsche said:

…until your power steering fluid p*sses out of the new hole in the hose  

Yes, there is that too...

3 hours ago, Paul P said:

Handbrake shoes/springs breaking up ? 

The handbrake shoes look okay. Springs all present and correct etc.

I drove it 10 miles and the first six or so were blissful. No more noises and I was just congratulating myself on a job well done when it started up again. very faintly but definitely still there. I headed home and by the time I drove into the driveway it was very definitely back. Not as bad as before but loud enough for the neighbours to hear.

I took off the wheel and turned the hub by hand. Still there. Took out the pads. Still there. Took off the caliper and took off the disc rotor. Gone.

Looked inside at the whole handbrake assembly and I can see where something is rubbing just above the handbrake shoe, but can't see a corresponding mark on the rotor. Cleaned it all nicely and put it back. Definitely the cause. Check again and again ad nauseum and I can't work out why the blasted thing is doing it. It is now screeching as loud as it was before and whilst I can see where the problem is, I can't see why there is a problem.

I managed to break the brake line bracket bolt in its hole so decided to quit while I am not too far behind. Put everything back together so I don't have to worry about the car falling off the jack stand for some stupid reason, and decided to do some more reading to see if I can work it out. Any suggestions would be gratefully received.

I have uploaded two pics to Google Pics as a shared album if anyone cares to have a look. 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/bQF7k79xhp1Uq7zf6 

Edited July 29, 2023 by RedBarediver

[Fat Rat]

42 minutes ago, RedBarediver said:

Yes, there is that too...

The handbrake shoes look okay. Springs all present and correct etc.

I drove it 10 miles and the first six or so were blissful. No more noises and I was just congratulating myself on a job well done when it started up again. very faintly but definitely still there. I headed home and by the time I drove into the driveway it was very definitely back. Not as bad as before but loud enough for the neighbours to hear.

I took off the wheel and turned the hub by hand. Still there. Took out the pads. Still there. Took off the caliper and took off the disc rotor. Gone.

Looked inside at the whole handbrake assembly and I can see where something is rubbing just above the handbrake shoe, but can't see a corresponding mark on the rotor. Cleaned it all nicely and put it back. Definitely the cause. Check again and again ad nauseum and I can't work out why the blasted thing is doing it. It is now screeching as loud as it was before and whilst I can see where the problem is, I can't see why there is a problem.

I managed to break the brake line bracket bolt in its hole so decided to quit while I am not too far behind. Put everything back together so I don't have to worry about the car falling off the jack stand for some stupid reason, and decided to do some more reading to see if I can work it out. Any suggestions would be gratefully received.

I have uploaded two pics to Google Pics as a shared album if anyone cares to have a look. 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/bQF7k79xhp1Uq7zf6 

Whats the wheel bearing like? Only thing I can think of that will give you movement between hub and back plate that could come and go. 😬

[RedBarediver]

27 minutes ago, Fat Rat said:

Whats the wheel bearing like? Only thing I can think of that will give you movement between hub and back plate that could come and go. 😬

Wheel bearing is dead quiet. hub turns silky smooth as well. And the squeal is now constant again. I'm even thinking if I should get new disc rotors - but I doubt that is the issue.

[Fat Rat]

25 minutes ago, RedBarediver said:

Wheel bearing is dead quiet. hub turns silky smooth as well. And the squeal is now constant again. I'm even thinking if I should get new disc rotors - but I doubt that is the issue.

Maybe something has given up connected to the wheel carrier allowing it to pitch over to the hub and rub? 🤔

[BBB]

I know this would be a pain to do, but could you swap the rotor from the other side and see if the noise changes side. That would identify this rotor if it’s the problem.

[RedBarediver]

21 minutes ago, BBB said:

I know this would be a pain to do, but could you swap the rotor from the other side and see if the noise changes side. That would identify this rotor if it’s the problem.

I was thinking of doing that actually. I wanted to measure the rotor thickness when I had the wheel off but forgot. I'll give it a go tomorrow and swop the rotors around. If that cures the squealing on this side then I'll get two new rotors.

 

29 minutes ago, Fat Rat said:

Maybe something has given up connected to the wheel carrier allowing it to pitch over to the hub and rub? 🤔

Doubt it but I guess it's possible. If it continues to squeal on the same side when I put on the other side's rotor then it must be something with the hub.

[dieselpower]

Finished making and fitting the replacement brake pipes, got the calipers back on and pads in.  Ready for brake fluid and bleeding next.

[zagamuffin]

Maybe easier if you had rear on axle stds and ran the car in gear, leave it idle in first and go back to the rear. Should be obvious enough when you can hear the noise up close 

[RedBarediver]

10 hours ago, zagamuffin said:

Maybe easier if you had rear on axle stds and ran the car in gear, leave it idle in first and go back to the rear. Should be obvious enough when you can hear the noise up close 

You cannot miss the noise. I can also see where it is rubbing (just above the hand brake shoe) but for the life of me I can't see why. There is no corresponding wear on the rotor disc that I can see. I'll give it another shot today and swop the left and right rotors around. If the sound moves across to the right (which I am praying it will) then I'll just order two new rotors and replace them.

If the sound doesn't move then it's potentially the bearing that needs to come out. Really hoping that's not the case...

[RedBarediver]

2 hours ago, RedBarediver said:

You cannot miss the noise. I can also see where it is rubbing (just above the hand brake shoe) but for the life of me I can't see why. There is no corresponding wear on the rotor disc that I can see. I'll give it another shot today and swop the left and right rotors around. If the sound moves across to the right (which I am praying it will) then I'll just order two new rotors and replace them.

If the sound doesn't move then it's potentially the bearing that needs to come out. Really hoping that's not the case...

Well, I took the whole thing apart again and inspected it minutely. I still can't see what is causing the sound. However, by process of elimination it must be the top of the ridge of the disc rotor scratching against the metal plate behind the handbrake shoes. The ridge of the rotor runs inside the plate and there must be a high point somewhere that allows it to touch. I presume the tolerances in this area are fairly tight. 

I was uneasy to put both wheels on jack stands and have both off at the same time. My driveway is fairly level and I have had the car on jack stands with both wheels in the air in the past, but that time I kept the wheels on (I was replacing  the exhaust). The last thing I need is for the thing to fall off the jack stands. I copper greased the living daylights out of the area on the disc rotor where I think it impacts and replaced everything. Without the wheel on the car, the sound is still there so I figured if it doesn't go away I shall have to have it checked by someone who knows more than me. Took it for a quick drive around the block and it was quiet. Pretty sure I haven't cured it as I think it will return but at least I can drive somewhere to get it done if need be. 

Looking at my rotors I am considering getting them replaced in any event as they look to me to be fairly worn (they have been on the car 25 years plus) and besides new Brembo rotors on Autodoc aren't all that expensive in the bigger scheme of things.

I uploaded a short video of the screeching before I added the copper grease. https://photos.app.goo.gl/AVywTchVFQR6rMyd7

Edited July 30, 2023 by RedBarediver

[PaulQ]

Was plate behind disc catching on mine when sounding the same. 

Still does it occasionally, but only on roundabouts going quickly 🤔

Edited July 30, 2023 by PaulQ

[pacificjuha]

Went racing on Friday and Yesterday on Porsche Racing Club Finland event at alastarocircuit.fi. Friday was a day for practice runs with Time Trial (I run at TT with my Boxster), Club Racing and 992 Cup Cars.
Saturday we had a massive downpour of rain most of the day. Still raced on all classes...
Probably due to the really wet track, the exhaust pipe immediately before the cat cracked on my car (first image).
Will get it welded this week.

Today I also installed new camberplates (EuroCupGT-Pro GT3 Adjustable Front Top Mounts - image borrowed from Porshop.co.uk website, I forgot to take pictures of the installation...) to the front suspension. Will get the alignment re-done also later this week.

To finish off the good Porsche weekend, I washed the car.

[edc]

Is it the crack at the weld? I'd be a bit surprised that water on hot exhaust caused a crack. I'd be looking more to the mounting and any movement introduced from gearbox or engine mounts. 

[Everywhen]

New Brake pads, retaining springs and pins done. 

Set alignment bolts the same visually and then checked all suspension bolts for torque.

Wheels will go to be refinished and new tires fitted on 7th August then a 4 wheel alignment and the suspension refit will be completed.

it’s taken a bit longer than I originally anticipated, and cost a bit more, but I hadn’t budgeted for new handbrake cables and backing plates, pad retaining springs and strut top bearings.

However, it’s been a pleasure to do and I’ve learned lots. Granted its mostly about Boxster parking brakes, and that has to be useful. Doesn’t it?

[pacificjuha]

1 hour ago, edc said:

Is it the crack at the weld? I'd be a bit surprised that water on hot exhaust caused a crack. I'd be looking more to the mounting and any movement introduced from gearbox or engine mounts. 

'The crack is right next to the weld. Also my friend's GT4 (2020 model if I remember right) cracked the exhaust flange right nect to the cat. We had massive amount of water on the track yesterday on one race. That is why we currently believe the large amount of water on the very hot exhaust during the 15 min race, to be the issue on both of our exhaust damage cases.