gdibben Posted March 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2020 At last - I'm in! Thank you to all who offered advice and guidance... So with a 3rd battery (first 2 NDG even though showing 12V) on the + terminal at the fusebox/earth and the key in the door as before it activated the latch release. So it seems you don't need the dead car battery to be connected, which is what I had assumed when earlier attempts failed. One thing to note is I have no emergency release cable on the driver's side (2001MY). Once I got to the wheel nut adaptor, I took off the front wheel and wheel liner to have a really good look and it's just not there. I'll look again in the summer - I have to take the bumper off to replace the condensers, so I'll see if it's been re-routed or on the passenger side once I have the front off and can have a good look. Either way, I'll fix something more accessible for the future. Lesson learnt, the wheel nut adaptor now lives in the door pocket and the trickle charger is reconnected and I'll be removing the fused race-style battery cut-off! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red rocket Posted March 8, 2020 Report Share Posted March 8, 2020 12 minutes ago, gdibben said: Lesson learnt, the wheel nut adaptor now lives in the door pocket Well done. You're not the first person to have this problem! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southy Posted March 9, 2020 Report Share Posted March 9, 2020 Great news, I always travel with a fully charged battery pack, I was golden until in hindsight it was pointed out to me the frunk wasn't the best place to keep it 🤣 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted March 9, 2020 Report Share Posted March 9, 2020 Glad you've got a good result @gdibben. A lot of frustration but minimal cost 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Huw_L Posted March 9, 2020 Report Share Posted March 9, 2020 My locking nut lives in the ashtray ... no other use for it, and means the nut doesn't rattle round in the door pocket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunks Posted March 28, 2020 Report Share Posted March 28, 2020 Previous owner of my car had attached a cable tie to the end of the emergency pull and cut a very small slot into the wheel arch lining , when I had a flat battery last week, just put my arm into the wheel arch and pulled the loop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxey11 Posted March 29, 2020 Report Share Posted March 29, 2020 During the current lock down situation, I have popped the frunk latch open and left it like that. I don't think I'll be driving the car any time soon and can't get at electricity to use a charger. Just in case! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hit The North Posted March 29, 2020 Report Share Posted March 29, 2020 Is your key battery flat? I had all the same issues and it was a dead key battery that was causing the problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdibben Posted March 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2020 My problem was having a viable battery to energise the release via the fusebox. The first battery was a jump start pack which was fully charged but caused a furious clicking behind the fuse panel, then a dud 12V car battery I had taken out of another car and charged - it showed about 12V but didn't pop the frunk. When I checked it later a day or so later it only showed 5V, so tried a 3rd battery that was fully charged and showing a healthy 11.8V then it worked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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