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How long should I allow to replace the passenger side drip tray?


the baron

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This weekend I will be taking the roof completely off and replacing the polystyrene drip tray that I am convinced is the cause of the occasional damp carpet under the passenger seat.

Ive never taken the roof off before but have studied videos and it doesn't look a bad job, I will them have to take the old tray out and there are no vids on this so just wondered if anyone had performed this operation before how long to allow to complete the job so I can plan my weekend.

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Others have reported taking the convertible roof assembly off is a 2 person job.  Once that bit is done I looks like it should only be a few minutes work, but never done it personally.

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10 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Others have reported taking the convertible roof assembly off is a 2 person job.  Once that bit is done I looks like it should only be a few minutes work, but never done it personally.

Easier with two, especially installing

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Well this is an absolute faff, all the online sources for removing the soft top state its the 10mm arm bolt and 3 x 13mm securing bolts on each side, no mention of the two small Philips screws on each side plus the roof microswitch, no mention at all, lets just snap it off, plus the arms drop down and puncture the poly drip tray so I have two buggered ones, all in all a PITA, have left it all covered over in the garage in bits, will attempt re assembly tomorrow

I will have to do a how too as this was/is a real ball ache.

 

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1 hour ago, rowbos said:

I feel your pain Steve...

Do you need to get hold of more spare parts before you reassemble?

@the baron, ^^^ +1.   Horrible when a job doesn't go as planned and cost more into the bargain.  I guess even more with having to remove the hard top (and RTS?) before getting to the convertible roof on yours.  Keep the faith, as they say, you will come out the other side wiser and more experienced.  In the mean time, go have a beer:beer:

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1 hour ago, rowbos said:

I feel your pain Steve...

Do you need to get hold of more spare parts before you reassemble?

Ive repaired the side I've just punctured using the old drip tray and some waterproof adhesive, so hopefully that will hold up. should have everything ready to go for tomorrow.

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37 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

@the baron, ^^^ +1.   Horrible when a job doesn't go as planned and cost more into the bargain.  I guess even more with having to remove the hard top (and RTS?) before getting to the convertible roof on yours.  Keep the faith, as they say, you will come out the other side wiser and more experienced.  In the mean time, go have a beer:beer:

Thanks, you can probably see the frustration in that email, just hate wrong instructions that lead you down a rabbit hole, still as you say I will learn from the experience and can hopefully help out others and steer them clear of repeating my c@ck ups 😂

Talking of beer, when I was younger my parents always used to pour beer into my baths, its only recently I realised I had been fostered 😂😂😂😂

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3 hours ago, the baron said:

Thanks, you can probably see the frustration in that email, just hate wrong instructions that lead you down a rabbit hole, still as you say I will learn from the experience and can hopefully help out others and steer them clear of repeating my c@ck ups 😂

Talking of beer, when I was younger my parents always used to pour beer into my baths, its only recently I realised I had been fostered 😂😂😂😂

At least you've kept your sense of humour, well almost... :unsure:

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15 hours ago, the baron said:

Well this is an absolute faff, all the online sources for removing the soft top state its the 10mm arm bolt and 3 x 13mm securing bolts on each side, no mention of the two small Philips screws on each side plus the roof microswitch, no mention at all, lets just snap it off, plus the arms drop down and puncture the poly drip tray so I have two buggered ones, all in all a PITA, have left it all covered over in the garage in bits, will attempt re assembly tomorrow

I will have to do a how too as this was/is a real ball ache.

 

Mr Baron, roof removal and install is very easy.

Removal should be 5 mins and the same with the installation albeit when reinstalling, it can take a few minutes to get the bolts to line up.

Remove the 5mm arm from the cable housing on both sides; naturally, keep hold of this arm when you remove / reinstall the roof. 

Remove the 3 13mm bolts on each side. 

Unclip the heater rear widow connector on the passenger side if you have a glass rear screen 

I am unaware of the Phillips screws you mention or the microswitch.

Now lift the roof out. The installation is the reverse.

The drip trays are simple and are held in by plastic screws but from memory I think you have to remove the roll over bars as the drip trays have a circle in them that fits under the bars. You can probably just undo the bars and lift out of the way.

If you have indeed damaged a drip tray, it is highly likely that you have also damaged the thick foam liner that sits underneath this meaning it is best to change this at the same time. 

I have done 2 roof's this week and both were done in under 30 mins. 

Cheers Paul 

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9 minutes ago, TROOPER88 said:

Mr Baron, roof removal and install is very easy.

Removal should be 5 mins and the same with the installation albeit when reinstalling, it can take a few minutes to get the bolts to line up.

Remove the 5mm arm from the cable housing on both sides; naturally, keep hold of this arm when you remove / reinstall the roof. 

Remove the 3 13mm bolts on each side. 

Unclip the heater rear widow connector on the passenger side if you have a glass rear screen 

I am unaware of the Phillips screws you mention or the microswitch.

Now lift the roof out. The installation is the reverse.

The drip trays are simple and are held in by plastic screws but from memory I think you have to remove the roll over bars as the drip trays have a circle in them that fits under the bars. You can probably just undo the bars and lift out of the way.

If you have indeed damaged a drip tray, it is highly likely that you have also damaged the thick foam liner that sits underneath this meaning it is best to change this at the same time. 

I have done 2 roof's this week and both were done in under 30 mins. 

Cheers Paul 

The Philip screws secure the micro switch lurking in the B post area on the hood frame

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1 hour ago, TROOPER88 said:

Mr Baron, roof removal and install is very easy.

Removal should be 5 mins and the same with the installation albeit when reinstalling, it can take a few minutes to get the bolts to line up.

Remove the 5mm arm from the cable housing on both sides; naturally, keep hold of this arm when you remove / reinstall the roof. 

Remove the 3 13mm bolts on each side. 

Unclip the heater rear widow connector on the passenger side if you have a glass rear screen 

I am unaware of the Phillips screws you mention or the microswitch.

Now lift the roof out. The installation is the reverse.

The drip trays are simple and are held in by plastic screws but from memory I think you have to remove the roll over bars as the drip trays have a circle in them that fits under the bars. You can probably just undo the bars and lift out of the way.

If you have indeed damaged a drip tray, it is highly likely that you have also damaged the thick foam liner that sits underneath this meaning it is best to change this at the same time. 

I have done 2 roof's this week and both were done in under 30 mins. 

Cheers Paul 

And there lies the problem, I too thought it would be a simple removal, it’s the very hidden Philips screws that caused the issues, and then the micro switch that has to be unscrewed. 
 

my car is one of the first in the Uk so maybe it’s different 

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1 hour ago, bally4563 said:

The Philip screws secure the micro switch lurking in the B post area on the hood frame

That’s not right, there are 4 further screws that hold the gram in place without undoing these the frame would not come out and this is what caused the issues, yes there is also a screw on the micro switch

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Just now, the baron said:

That’s not right, there are 4 further screws that hold the gram in place without undoing these the frame would not come out and this is what caused the issues, yes there is also a screw on the micro switch

There is no microswitch.

I have done about 20 986 roof's in the past 12 months.

If people on here want to offer advice then that is cool; I am working on these cars ever day.

Your roof could not be easier to remove if you follow what I have said above.

Good luck 

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Just now, TROOPER88 said:

Then follow the instructions I sent above

You’ve missed out the 4 Philips screws that hold the frame in place like all the other instructions, this is what has caused the issues

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1 minute ago, TROOPER88 said:

There is no microswitch.

I have done about 20 986 roof's in the past 12 months.

If people on here want to offer advice then that is cool; I am working on these cars ever day.

Your roof could not be easier to remove if you follow what I have said above.

Good luck 

I will take some pictures of the micro switch and the 4 Phillips screws

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1 minute ago, the baron said:

You’ve missed out the 4 Philips screws that hold the frame in place like all the other instructions, this is what has caused the issues

There is not 4 screws thats have to be removed!!!

3 13mm bolts and the 5mm screw on the arm, this is all!!

You do not even have to unplug the heater rear window.

 

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1 minute ago, TROOPER88 said:

There is not 4 screws thats have to be removed!!!

3 13mm bolts and the 5mm screw on the arm, this is all!!

You do not even have to unplug the heater rear window.

 

Not going to argue, but you are wrong, I will take photos to prove my point. As stated above my car is one of the first in the UK 1997 and maybe it was belts and braces approach on early cars or maybe the cars you've worked on have had the roof removed in the past and the 4 screws have been left out, who knows, but I take offence to being called a liar, there ARE 4 PHILIPS SCREWS (2 Each side) THAT ARE IN THE SAME AREA AS THE 3 x 13mm BOLTS

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4 minutes ago, the baron said:

Not going to argue, but you are wrong, I will take photos to prove my point. As stated above my car is one of the first in the UK 1997 and maybe it was belts and braces approach on early cars or maybe the cars you've worked on have had the roof removed in the past and the 4 screws have been left out, who knows, but I take offence to being called a liar, there ARE 4 PHILIPS SCREWS (2 Each side) THAT ARE IN THE SAME AREA AS THE 3 x 13mm BOLTS

I have done many 1997 cars. 

I am not calling you a liar but the screws you are looking for do not have to be removed to remove the whole roof from the car; just the one's I have mentioned a few times.

Good luck with it 👍

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7 minutes ago, TROOPER88 said:

I have done many 1997 cars. 

I am not calling you a liar but the screws you are looking for do not have to be removed to remove the whole roof from the car; just the one's I have mentioned a few times.

Good luck with it 👍

They do have to be removed, as they screw into the same part of the frame as the 3 large bolts, this is why the roof wouldn’t budge, when removed it just slid out so if they were left in place I would still be trying to remove it 24hrs later and is my beef with online tutorials 

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3 minutes ago, the baron said:

They do have to be removed, as they screw into the same part of the frame as the 3 large bolts, this is why the roof wouldn’t budge, when removed it just slid out so if they were left in place I would still be trying to remove it 24hrs later and is my beef with online tutorials 

The frame comes out as well....

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