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Front camber imbalance WAY out!


M635uk

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3 minutes ago, bally4563 said:

Pics are deceptive, but that does look like is pointing towards the vicar

Anyway you can leave it hanging in place , just slightly loosen the bottom wishbone bolt and it will allow you to drop it out of the hub( drop link removed of course! )

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Ok, strut assembly out of car, rotating the shaft shows the shaft to be bent, not much by definitely a bend on it and it can be seen as a wobble on the top mount as it rotates, don’t know if that is the extent of the issue, perhaps the struct body is bent too.   I’ll take the other strut assembly off tomorrow and compare.  

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Hi, update as follows.

bought two new struts, b4 bilstein from Design911, £290 delivered which i thought was reasonable.

Fitted both and re measured front camber

Remember I was +2.5 deg front left and -3.5 front right with strut mounts slots set a max respectively to try and correct. So 6 deg difference.🤔

with new struts.

-1.5 deg front left (4 deg change) and +0.5 degree front right (4 degree change).   So a big change and now only 2 degree difference.😊  With the top mount slots set at max as before I should be able to correct to get it somewhere very close to zero difference.  Then get the toe corrected to suit.

so the problem looks like bent front strut housings and also one bent strut shaft.  Right side shaft was not bent.

I’ll post final alignment readings when they are done on the local hunter machine.

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30 minutes ago, edc said:

How does it get that bent and you not notice the impact or break a wheel? Did it happen before your ownership? 

The only part that you see is bent was the lhs strut shaft.  It had a run out of about 3mm when rotated.  The struts themselves had bends but only noticeable with a straight edge and even then only marginal.  They were also quite rusty.
looking the wheels themselves you could see the lhs was positive camber slightly, rhs was negative camber.

had a good look at the control arms, hub assemblies and no noticeable damage.

Suspect it was before my ownership at 57k miles, invoice claims alignment at Porsche at 53k miles, maybe it was the reason for the sale?  Haven’t hit anything although pot holes in the Peak District can be Cavernous if you can excuse the pun.

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38 minutes ago, Lennym1984 said:

Whilst you're in there, you may want to check the actual hub assemblies. These can be bent or have manufacturing tolerances that will create a difference

Had a good look and they seem fine, would there be a method to check tolerances of the hub assembly?

thanks

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Given I have about 13mm total adjustment on the top strut mount slots I calculate this will give about 1.15 degree per side.   So I should be able to get both sides equalised at about -0.5 degree.  Which I would be more than happy with from where I started!  

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You can widen the slot about 5mm until the strut hits the tower. This should allow up to about 2.5 Deg neg camber. 

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1 hour ago, M635uk said:

Just set from camber to -0.6 deg left and right, steering wheel now off centre of course but easily corrected when I get the final toe done.  Think I am getting there now.  Thanks

Good work and problem solving.  Best of luck and hope you enjoy it even more once correctly tracked.

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  • 1 year later...

This thread hurt my noob head but was good to learn a bit. 

So im hoping to get my car back after having a full suspension overhaul inc all the arms, shocks (Koni Active), springs (H&R m030), drop links etc... Im booked in to have the alignment and camber done so before i go next week, should i stick to what the factory default or suggest any deviations from it? 

My car is used daily for short trips and weekend blasts round the dales and im also looking to take it on track a couple of times a year. 

Cheers in advance. :) 

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2 hours ago, fizz said:

This thread hurt my noob head but was good to learn a bit. 

So im hoping to get my car back after having a full suspension overhaul inc all the arms, shocks (Koni Active), springs (H&R m030), drop links etc... Im booked in to have the alignment and camber done so before i go next week, should i stick to what the factory default or suggest any deviations from it? 

My car is used daily for short trips and weekend blasts round the dales and im also looking to take it on track a couple of times a year. 

Cheers in advance. :) 

Go default.  Make sure they select Sports Chassis as your I believe had standard suspension before the rebuild.  It makes a small difference to the camber setting range.

cWOV7CQ.jpg 

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41 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Go default.  Make sure they select Sports Chassis as your I believe had standard suspension before the rebuild.  It makes a small difference to the camber setting range.

cWOV7CQ.jpg 

That's exactly what I was after mate. Cheers! 

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If you don't know what you want or don't feel the car lacking then stick to something on the standard range. As you learn and ouch the car and develop some driving preference you can fine tune the geo. The colours on the chart just show you whether you are within the manufacturer tolerance. My cambers are all red as that is what I have chosen. Equally as important is to ensure you have a good cross axle balance. And if you want to be more an*l about it as the car up weighted with ballast to your normal driving mode. For me that means half a tank of fuel 70 kg in the front seat. 

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Well I'm 100kg ballast to begin with 🤣 so prolly better off filling the tank up before going down. I think the tank is up the front behind the axle if I'm correct. 

With regards to driving styles... I've only ever know this car as very very tail happy due to shyatety old tyres I was running for 18 months. Then all the suspension bits they've taken off were in a right state

All the bushes and rubber perished so it's going to be a night and day difference.  

I hate understeer and used to love Turing in whilst trail braking in my mr2 turbo. 

Either way will be loads better. 😀

 

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