½cwt Posted March 11, 2022 Report Share Posted March 11, 2022 M1144 are effectively OE spec, so go with Textar, the Porsche OE provider. Porsche signed off the car with fairly decent brakes as a sports car. If you don't want compromises of more aggressive disc wear or better bite such as more dust with higher metal content then stay stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubdubz Posted March 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2022 8 minutes ago, ½cwt said: M1144 are effectively OE spec, so go with Textar, the Porsche OE provider. Porsche signed off the car with fairly decent brakes as a sports car. If you don't want compromises of more aggressive disc wear or better bite such as more dust with higher metal content then stay stock. Ok with disc wear, just not the fact some pads sound like they are akin to a 40 grit flap wheel, showering sparks around 😂😅. the physics bending pads do sound neat, and in the 70’s would have been their advertisement slogan…. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lennym1984 Posted March 11, 2022 Report Share Posted March 11, 2022 1 hour ago, ½cwt said: M1144 are effectively OE spec, so go with Textar, the Porsche OE provider. Porsche signed off the car with fairly decent brakes as a sports car. If you don't want compromises of more aggressive disc wear or better bite such as more dust with higher metal content then stay stock. Agreed. For a road car, the OE pads are perfectly decent and have a lot less compromises. It's only when you get on track that they fall down. If you're not going on track, this won't be an issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATM Posted March 11, 2022 Report Share Posted March 11, 2022 Someone elsewhere has recommended I try Akebono ceramic pads but I think these are only available form the US of A. Which seems odd as they're marketed over there as Euro spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lennym1984 Posted March 11, 2022 Report Share Posted March 11, 2022 27 minutes ago, ATM said: Someone elsewhere has recommended I try Akebono ceramic pads but I think these are only available form the US of A. Which seems odd as they're marketed over there as Euro spec. Ferodo DS2500 are the best road pads I have tried. They just don't hold up to track usage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codfanglers Posted March 11, 2022 Report Share Posted March 11, 2022 5 hours ago, Dubdubz said: the physics bending pads do sound neat, and in the 70’s would have been their advertisement slogan…. I don't think there really is a good road/track compromise. You either want your brakes to perform at their best when they get hot or have a nice feel and be quiet and hassle free for road use (with a bit in reserve for long down hills). New flat discs will usually have more influence on road feel that slightly different organic compounds in my experience. I tried EBC green pads on a TVR years ago. They didn't perform any better, just squealed and created more dust (not fun cleaning it off BBS wheels) for double the price of standard pads. If we didn't want to push the pedal harder in the olden days, we used to fit a bigger servo and better master cylinder or get hold of a pair of four-pot Princess calipers from the scrap yard and use them with bigger discs. That really was using physics. Do Sprint Booster do a similar box of tricks for the brake pedal?... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lennym1984 Posted March 11, 2022 Report Share Posted March 11, 2022 54 minutes ago, Codfanglers said: Do Sprint Booster do a similar box of tricks for the brake pedal?... The Sprint Booster just tricks the throttle electronics. Such an approach wouldn't work on the hydraulics of the brake system. As you say, you'd need to start fiddling with the brake booster and/or MC. This would then introduce different compromises. The GT3 MC (which I also have) improves pedal feel and travel but it doesn't affect initial bite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codfanglers Posted March 11, 2022 Report Share Posted March 11, 2022 2 hours ago, Lennym1984 said: The Sprint Booster just tricks the throttle electronics. Such an approach wouldn't work on the hydraulics of the brake system. I was thinking if you could fool the canbus into making the brake lights a bit brighter you could convince people the car would stop better.😉 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TV8 Posted March 11, 2022 Report Share Posted March 11, 2022 Assuming all is well with hydraulics and callipers etc, the car should stop very well but I recognise what you are saying about feel/bite. Not sure if this has been suggested but I have put braided brake hoses on several cars and it has always improved the feel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubdubz Posted March 31, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2022 On 3/11/2022 at 10:17 PM, TV8 said: Assuming all is well with hydraulics and callipers etc, the car should stop very well but I recognise what you are saying about feel/bite. Not sure if this has been suggested but I have put braided brake hoses on several cars and it has always improved the feel. going to try the ds2500 I think - and then M1155...my last spirited drive I did get brake fade after a few deep braking events... I do have braided hoses and the fluid was changed by dovehouse in July21. hoping to fit the MC this weekend @andygo was there any hints or tips - I do have a scanner thing nt520 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andygo Posted March 31, 2022 Report Share Posted March 31, 2022 (edited) The MC is a doddle to fit, but have plenty of rags around the MC before disconnecting. Bleeding is straightforward as long as you can cycle the ABS pump. I did it by bleeding the brakes in the traditional way initially. This resulted in a spongy pedal as per many reports. The fix is to drive the car and jump on the (spongy) brakes a few times, hard enough to invoke the ABS on each application. Then rebleed the brakes( both inner and outer bleed nipples per caliper) which, as theABS pump has been cycled, results in a nice firm pedal, effective at the top of it's travel. Edited March 31, 2022 by andygo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted March 31, 2022 Report Share Posted March 31, 2022 (edited) 2 hours ago, Dubdubz said: going to try the ds2500 I think - and then M1155...my last spirited drive I did get brake fade after a few deep braking events... I do have braided hoses and the fluid was changed by dovehouse in July21. hoping to fit the MC this weekend @andygo was there any hints or tips - I do have a scanner thing nt520 Well impressed if you are getting fade on the road! When I did a bit of road rallying 30 years ago I very rarely got fade. On track, fairly easy to achieve hence having experience of M1155 pads. Could it be the first time these pads ahve been really hot? The material gasses of the first time it get to high temp which feels like fading but it is a film of gas boiling on to the surface of the pad reducing friction, the once the cycle is done it never come back on those pads. Alan Brown of Questmead, who were the Mintex rally competition distributor in the UK for along time gave a hot bedding for the M1155, do 10 70-30 stops in quick succession. Stops 6, 7 and 8 are all rather sketchy before 9 and 10 are pretty much solid and the lingering odour is impressive for several minutes. Tip, use a bit of straight clear road! Edited March 31, 2022 by ½cwt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubdubz Posted March 31, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2022 6 minutes ago, ½cwt said: Well impressed if you are getting fade on the road! When I did a bit of road rallying 30 years ago I very rarely got fade. On track, fairly easy to achieve hence having experience of M1155 pads. Could it be the first time these pads ahve been really hot? The material gasses of the first time it get to high temp which feels like fading but it is a film of gas boiling on to the surface of the pad reducing friction, the once the cycle is done it never come back on those pads. Alan Brown of Questmead, who were the Mintex rally competition distributor in the UK for along time gave a hot bedding for the M1155, do 10 70-30 stops in quick succession. Stops 6, 7 and 8 are all rather sketchy before 9 and 10 are pretty much solid and the lingering odour is impressive for several minutes. Tip, use a bit of straight clear road! Not sure it had been a few weeks and I can drive like a berk (on empty roads where only me is in danger) I wonder if the current brembo pads are duff or glazed as I didn’t bed in properly I know different now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted March 31, 2022 Report Share Posted March 31, 2022 (edited) 2 minutes ago, Dubdubz said: Not sure it had been a few weeks and I can drive like a berk (on empty roads where only me is in danger) I wonder if the current brembo pads are duff or glazed as I didn’t bed in properly I know different now Beware, Alan was specific it was for the Mintex M1155s, not to use even for 1166 or 1144s. Some pads can fall apart with the sudden high temp rather than building it up, other competition orientated pads are already gassed off in the factory. Edited March 31, 2022 by ½cwt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATM Posted April 1, 2022 Report Share Posted April 1, 2022 Finally managed to source some EBC Yellows. Will report back how they feel once fitted. Also want to do the master cylinder - standard replacement so no upgrade - and clutch cylinder. Fiddling around under the dash doesn't sound like an easy job. Hopefully it's not too tricky. Anyone here tried it? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andygo Posted April 1, 2022 Report Share Posted April 1, 2022 21 hours ago, Dubdubz said: Not sure it had been a few weeks and I can drive like a berk (on empty roads where only me is in danger) I wonder if the current brembo pads are duff or glazed as I didn’t bed in properly I know different now Just sand the pads down on a flat surface to deglaze. I generally use a paving slab. ( I used to help develop carbon metallic pads when they were in their infancy for Mintex on stage rallies. I used to get the pads so hot they carbonised the rubber bellows on the caliper pistons..) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted April 1, 2022 Report Share Posted April 1, 2022 3 hours ago, andygo said: Just sand the pads down on a flat surface to deglaze. I generally use a paving slab. ( I used to help develop carbon metallic pads when they were in their infancy for Mintex on stage rallies. I used to get the pads so hot they carbonised the rubber bellows on the caliper pistons..) We had that happen at PalmerSport too with the early Performance Friction pads. Then again night rally stages in the Group A/Group N days in the 90s the cars came out of even forest stages with glowing red discs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubdubz Posted April 2, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2022 12 hours ago, andygo said: Just sand the pads down on a flat surface to deglaze. I generally use a paving slab. ( I used to help develop carbon metallic pads when they were in their infancy for Mintex on stage rallies. I used to get the pads so hot they carbonised the rubber bellows on the caliper pistons..) Thanks, I’ve stopped dithering and ordered some ds2500. Of course I’ll do the mc and the pads at the same time so won’t really know what has helped 🤣 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATM Posted April 2, 2022 Report Share Posted April 2, 2022 48 minutes ago, Dubdubz said: Thanks, I’ve stopped dithering and ordered some ds2500. Of course I’ll do the mc and the pads at the same time so won’t really know what has helped 🤣 It's called planning not dithering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubdubz Posted April 2, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2022 (edited) Nope, in my case uneducated procrastination, mildly added to by a do-I-need-these layer should-I-save-the-money-for-end-of-days Serious question is air lighter than the fluid in chemical terms. I’m thinking I can change the MC carefully and then leave for a day or 3, any air at the top where I’ve fiddled will surely rise into the top? if I resist getting in and jumping on the brakes forcing bubbles into the system? #edit are there non return valves on the runs to the calipers? I don’t have fresh fluid to hand, I can grab some of course. The stuff I have is 2 years old opened 1/2 uses but sealed. Not sure how much moisture it will have consumed but it feels like it’s best to go fresh and not be cheap 🤨 Edited April 2, 2022 by Dubdubz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted April 2, 2022 Report Share Posted April 2, 2022 Given brakes could save your life, it would be crazy not to belled them through. After an MC change you will almost certainly have air in the top of the lines and of course in the cylinder itself and with the viscosity of the fluid it can still capture air bubbles even if the air is lighter. Don't dither on this one, just do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubdubz Posted April 2, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2022 29 minutes ago, ½cwt said: Given brakes could save your life, it would be crazy not to belled them through. After an MC change you will almost certainly have air in the top of the lines and of course in the cylinder itself and with the viscosity of the fluid it can still capture air bubbles even if the air is lighter. Don't dither on this one, just do it. Fair do’s, I was more thinking about not forcing air at the top. so plan was to change mc. wait a few days, then bleed ill grab some fluid 😁 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted April 2, 2022 Report Share Posted April 2, 2022 3 minutes ago, Dubdubz said: Fair do’s, I was more thinking about not forcing air at the top. so plan was to change mc. wait a few days, then bleed ill grab some fluid 😁 Given you are working at the top of the system you need to consider cycling the ABS pump to make sure no air gets trapped in it, or a pressure bleed kit which are £25 to 45 to ensure it flushed through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubdubz Posted April 5, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2022 On 4/2/2022 at 1:33 PM, ½cwt said: Given you are working at the top of the system you need to consider cycling the ABS pump to make sure no air gets trapped in it, or a pressure bleed kit which are £25 to 45 to ensure it flushed through. Thanks @1/2cwt. I do have a pressure bleeder I found that it did a pretty good job but needed the old fashioned way to finish it off and remove all the bubbles, nothing beats the pedal push for this I have found. I did get in the post today FCP1307H so job for the weekend. (Assuming that’s the right pads and I’ve not ordered the wrong ones) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.