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H&at 10 mm lowering springs


bally4563

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Anybody got an outlet for the 10 mm lowering springs, I can only find 30mm and I think that would slam it too much?

Car has PASM fitted so it does sit slightly lower than a std 987

Dont necessarily have to be H&R

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16 minutes ago, bally4563 said:

Anybody got an outlet for the 10 mm lowering springs, I can only find 30mm and I think that would slam it too much?

Car has PASM fitted so it does sit slightly lower than a std 987

Dont necessarily have to be H&R

Or 20mm

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2 hours ago, bally4563 said:

Anybody got an outlet for the 10 mm lowering springs, I can only find 30mm and I think that would slam it too much?

Car has PASM fitted so it does sit slightly lower than a std 987

Dont necessarily have to be H&R

@T911UKis likely to know whether they're available or not.

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49 minutes ago, T911UK said:

Thank you , not sure of your search engine, but I exhausted all my usuals

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8 hours ago, bally4563 said:

Anybody got an outlet for the 10 mm lowering springs, I can only find 30mm and I think that would slam it too much?

Car has PASM fitted so it does sit slightly lower than a std 987

Dont necessarily have to be H&R

If it already sits lower then the 30mm wont be a 30mm drop. It will be less

I have the H&Rs on konis. Hang off till you come up and I'll take you a run. 

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5 hours ago, Craigmann36 said:

That’s @T911UK, I’ve been looking for these also. 
Still in an internal debate with myself whether to go for the 10mm or 30mm…

On standard the 10 mm equates to a 20 mm drop which on standard I personally believe is enough, 30 mm will slam it

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  • 2 weeks later...
22 minutes ago, fewtrees said:

Doesn’t a change of springs also mean new shocks too?

Having tracked bikes for years, you’d not do one without the other unless you can adjust them to work..

I’ve been wondering this too, as changing my motorbike fork springs from standard to something that better suited my weight and riding style necessitated changing rebound and compression damping.

I can only presume that as the mass of the car is huge (compared to a rider) that spring height/length changes don’t affect spring rate (or are insignificant) so you can keep standard dampers. 

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52 minutes ago, fewtrees said:

Doesn’t a change of springs also mean new shocks too?

Having tracked bikes for years, you’d not do one without the other unless you can adjust them to work..

I dropped my car on 35mm H&Rs. Initially on standard shocks. Ride was fine but ultimately it killed the shocks as there is a lot more wear. 6 months later and shocks needed done. 

Expensive lesson as effectively had to pay twice the labour. 

Ride on the Konis is much better. Stiffer but way more compliant. 

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Given the stroke length of the dampers -10mm would make little difference, however M030 (Sports Suspension option) does have a different damper part number).  -30mm on the other hand would make a difference operating the damper with a 30mm offset on the standard neutral position.  I would imagine the lowering springs are also a little stiffer, so not changing the likelihood of hitting the bump stops vs standard springs but do not have info to confirm this.

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1 hour ago, ½cwt said:

Given the stroke length of the dampers -10mm would make little difference, however M030 (Sports Suspension option) does have a different damper part number).  -30mm on the other hand would make a difference operating the damper with a 30mm offset on the standard neutral position.  I would imagine the lowering springs are also a little stiffer, so not changing the likelihood of hitting the bump stops vs standard springs but do not have info to confirm this.

It’s not length that matters but the  spring force over distance. The shocks are tuned to the force over distance so the shock compression, rebound and spring preload perform correctly with the unsprung weight. All for allowing the tyre to maintain contact with the road for as long as possible..

Edited by fewtrees
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57 minutes ago, fewtrees said:

It’s not length that matters but the  spring force over distance. The shocks are tuned to the force over distance so the shock compression, rebound and spring preload perform correctly with the unsprung weight. All for allowing the tyre to maintain contact with the road for as long as possible..

If the spring rate remains the same but just sits 10mm lower it is not a problem.  if the spring is slightly stiffer, then yes the bump/rebound characteristics will not match the original design but are unlikely to be miles out.  Ultimately the decision is down to cost vs originally vs desired performance outcome so good to examine all the characteristics.  Ideally springing and damping should be matched to achieve the result you state.  The info I gave about shocks and M030 was for 986, apologies.  For 987 there is one passive damper and one PASM shock matched to one passive spring and one PASM spring at the front but a whole set of combinations for passive, PASM and tip on the rear.

The only way to guarantee the correct spring/damper performance would be to remain OE.

Edited by ½cwt
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The springs I have are marked up blue white and red are what I took off my old rear shocks , but the second hand replacement Pasm  I fitted were a different marking, but just checked under the car and I can’t see the markings, but the car definitely rides higher

What is blue red and white?

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