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Coolant crossover pipes - quote?


DaveRB99

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Just now, DBarthorpe said:

What can I expect to pay if / when I chose to get the coolant crossover pipes done at a decent specialist?  (All 8 pipes).

Prices vary greatly when this topic has been discussed previously, anything between £500 - £1K and you'll get different views on whether the front subframe needs dropping or not, which then would mean an alignment. I had them done on a 987.2 as part of its purchase prep and it was costed at nearer the £1K and involved the subframe drop/alignment. Bottom line, suggest you get some quotes from the garages you want to use.

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Remove the front wheels and the plastic wheel well covers to inspect .They looked dry no weeps .

Not sure how old mine are ( 09 ) ? But I using compressed air and a gentle brush cleaned them up and coated the joint with penetrating fluid them waxoil all round working it in the gap with a small brush .

The heat softens the wax and if flows when the pipes get hot .
 

You will be taking the front wheel well shields off anyhow to remove the bumper to “ service “ or replace the AC condensers any how .There’s also a hidden  metal brake pipe that requires some additional anticorrosive protection while the covers are off .

I repeated the cover off inspection just recently prepping it for the winter ( more waxoil ing ) and the joints looked fine .

Some say it’s a combo of two things .

1- the o ring starts to weep as it eventually deforms with time / heat cycles .Water gets to the inside metal collar = starts corrosion and the expanding metal looses it seal under pressure .

2- salt and water enter from the other end , road cr*p settles on the external mating crevices ( the bit I cleaned + waxed ) and water seeps deep into the joint , the latching pin and its house corrode and the joint destabilises starts to lose its tightness = seep + weeps .

Remember residual heat soak dries them after shut down .

I suspect if you keep them periodically clean and apply a suitable anti corrosion product , you might end up only reading about others woes on forums .

The joints are not U.K. salty road proof as they are .

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10 hours ago, DBarthorpe said:

What can I expect to pay if / when I chose to get the coolant crossover pipes done at a decent specialist?  (All 8 pipes).

If you wish to get these done now for peace of mind/preventative maintenance its not a bad idea. However,  in my experience they do not fail dramatically but start to weep, so you could keep an eye on them, getting them replaced in the future at a convenient time.

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10 minutes ago, Topbox said:

If you wish to get these done now for peace of mind/preventative maintenance its not a bad idea. However,  in my experience they do not fail dramatically but start to weep, so you could keep an eye on them, getting them replaced in the future at a convenient time.

^^^^ This - exactly what happened on my 10 plate 987.2 - started with a small patch of liquid under the passenger side

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10 hours ago, DBarthorpe said:

What can I expect to pay if / when I chose to get the coolant crossover pipes done at a decent specialist?  (All 8 pipes).

Paid £640 at a specialist in Glasgow 18 months back. Specialist at the other end of town wanted nearer £1100 but he was plying me with warnings of "once you start with 6 pipes at the front it soon grows till you need to do all 14 pipes". Didn't care for his flim-flam, nor his expectant call the next day telling me he had a lift available now. Half expected an Amway pitch to follow up.

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It has always seemed to me that there is some uncertainty about what constitutes the "cross-over" pipes and what exactly is replaced when this job is done. It would account for the large variation in costs that are seen for the "job" .

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3 hours ago, Topbox said:

It has always seemed to me that there is some uncertainty about what constitutes the "cross-over" pipes and what exactly is replaced when this job is done. It would account for the large variation in costs that are seen for the "job" .

If you turn the steering wheel lock to lock , holding it at full you can see in front a pair of connections……sat there basically fully exposed collecting weather + salt . By the ARB mounts .

That’s 4 pipes ends .With the wheel wells off the front 1/2 you can see the other two behind the main rads irrc .That iirc makes 6 pipes .

There are some just Fwds of the engine visible by removing the transverse underbody plastic cover , the rear bit .They seem weather protected so unlikely to go .If you ever need to remove this rear panel then obviously clean up and wax / apply anti corrosion stuff of your choice “ while you are in there “ I had this off doing a AC pipe replacement so attended to theses joints too .

 

Apparently there is one in front and over the engine which if replacement is necessary it’s an engine out job .Hence treat the joints as a preventative measure .But as I say they are weather protected by and large and will dry out with heat .

 

The front s in the wheel well are exposed and sitting ducks .

Edited by Boxer boy
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3 hours ago, cptspaulding said:

Paid £640 at a specialist in Glasgow 18 months back. Specialist at the other end of town wanted nearer £1100 but he was plying me with warnings of "once you start with 6 pipes at the front it soon grows till you need to do all 14 pipes". Didn't care for his flim-flam, nor his expectant call the next day telling me he had a lift available now. Half expected an Amway pitch to follow up.

Was that George Morrison per chance?

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1 hour ago, DBarthorpe said:

Thanks Andy, so was that basically replacing 8 pipes, Inc VAT?   Any idea whether they dropped the surname off to do the job?

 

53 minutes ago, Menoporsche said:

Ah yes; anonymising the invoice for tax purposes…

Oops, damned autocorrect, I meant subframe of course……!

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1 hour ago, cptspaulding said:

Ha. MickH named that tune in one. You have previous experience?

No but I know many a person that has left with a huge surprise bill.  He seems to have a knack for fixing things that are not broken and supplying huge invoices.

Have you ever dealt with APR? (Used to be Drew Patterson) in the Mearns, highly recommend them

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15 hours ago, DBarthorpe said:

 

Oops, damned autocorrect, I meant subframe of course……!

Just dug out the invoice, the previous owner had it done in Sept 2020 with some other work at the same time, labour was 5 hours, does not say if subframe was dropped, parts list mentions 4 water hoses, 2 coolant tubes, 2 distributer pipes, 2 sleeves

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Having a complete set of genuine Porsche pipes dropped off this pm. Total cost, £319.00 inclusive.

Will gen up on a couple of YouTube videos but I won’t be removing the Subframe.

Will get round to doing it this week sometime I guess.

Pipe is not leaking at the moment but car is 2008 with 86K in miles so happy to futureproof it. Don’t want leaking pipework when in the middle of a track day and not paying full attention to the dash, possibly!

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1 hour ago, phazed said:

Having a complete set of genuine Porsche pipes dropped off this pm. Total cost, £319.00 inclusive.

Will gen up on a couple of YouTube videos but I won’t be removing the Subframe.

Will get round to doing it this week sometime I guess.

Pipe is not leaking at the moment but car is 2008 with 86K in miles so happy to futureproof it. Don’t want leaking pipework when in the middle of a track day and not paying full attention to the dash, possibly!

As I understand it you will at least be lowering the subframe on its bolts otherwise you can't get the pipes in and out.  Anyway, best of luck it is always good to be ahead of the curve on a potential failure point.

Edited by ½cwt
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3 hours ago, ½cwt said:

As I understand it you will at least be lowering the subframe on its bolts otherwise you can't get the pipes in and out.  Anyway, best of luck it is always good to be ahead of the curve on a potential failure point.

I think it would be easier to lower the subframe using threaded bar that matches the original bolt threads. That way you can lower more without any risk of the whole lot collapsing etc. 

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