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Advice & Tips for Plugs change


Daboy3000

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I am thinking of changing the plugs and coil packs (if needed) myself.  I am fine when it comes to taking things apart and putting them back together, but do struggle when things go a bit wrong, like stuck suspension bolts.  I would say I am a 6/10 DIY mechanic.  I've watched a few videos and it does look pretty simple.

Do you think I should just go for it?  Any disaster stories?

 

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I haven't' done my own but I did help @987RG do his plugs and coil packs on his 987.  One plug was very reluctant to undo.  We had a conversation about the consequences of snapping the plug and the cost of taking the engine out 😱.  Fortunately, with some carefully applied torque on a long bar, it eventually gave and came out OK with a massive sigh of relief from both of us! 

E10 female Torx socket for the coil pack bolts IIRC.   Get Beru coil packs, decent prices on eBay. 

Torques from Porsche M96 engine workshop manual:

New plug - tighten to 30Nm first, then to 33Nm. Refitting old plug tighten to 25Nm, then to 30Nm (crush washer will have crushed on first fitting)

Coil pack bolts 10Nm

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Yep, did mine on my last 986 with no dramas.

You need a relatively deep plug socket/extension but to be honest probably took longer to get the car up and wheels off to access them than to change the plugs and coils. As @1/2cwt says above, I used Beru coils, sourced from eBay.

Be careful with the clips on the coil plugs as they can go brittle due to heat and also lightly screw the plugs in by hand on the socket so they don't cross-thread as with any aluminium head.

My coils were badly cracked and crusty which is probably common due to their inhospitable location.

Good luck, sure you'll be fine 👍

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Be careful removing the bolts on the coil packs, mine were Allen key rather than torx, but I have heard of people rounding off the Allen bolts due to poor access. Worth tapping the Allen key in with a small hammer before attempting to turn to make sure it’s properly seated.

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It really costs next to nothing to be done even at a decent independent. If your not that confident it’s possibly not worth the risk for the sake of a couple of hour’s labour unless you just want to do it yourself.

Edited by Boxsum
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3 hours ago, ½cwt said:

I haven't' done my own but I did help @987RG do his plugs and coil packs on his 987.  One plug was very reluctant to undo.  We had a conversation about the consequences of snapping the plug and the cost of taking the engine out 😱.  Fortunately, with some carefully applied torque on a long bar, it eventually gave and came out OK with a massive sigh of relief from both of us! 

E10 female Torx socket for the coil pack bolts IIRC.   Get Beru coil packs, decent prices on eBay. 

Torques from Porsche M96 engine workshop manual:

New plug - tighten to 30Nm first, then to 33Nm. Refitting old plug tighten to 25Nm, then to 30Nm (crush washer will have crushed on first fitting)

Coil pack bolts 10Nm

Yes, was a tense few minutes with thoughts of having to have the engine taken out!  Great work Chris, thanks.

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1 hour ago, Boxsum said:

It really costs next to nothing to be done even at a decent independent. If your not that confident it’s possibly not worth the risk for the sake of a couple of hour’s labour unless you just want to do it yourself.

I would like to do as many jobs as I can, not only to save money but because I am very practical. Just not particularly patient.

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2 hours ago, Baldrick said:

.... also lightly screw the plugs in by hand on the socket so they don't cross-thread as with any aluminium head.

...

Another tip is to slowly turn the new plug anti-clockwise and you can feel the thread drop in so you know it is engaged before turning it clockwise to tighten it to help avoid cross threading.  Applies to any bolt, particularly useful technique for any difficult to reach or steel into alloy thread.

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12 hours ago, Daboy3000 said:

upto 65% off plus etc Halloween sale

https://www.gsfcarparts.com/parts/service-parts/plugs/spark-plug

 

Are these ok?  

NGK SPARK PLUG - BKR6EK

Can’t speak for the specific part number but in general NGK are front and centre for plugs - used them in high perf bikes and cars - personally would consider them to be premium brand 

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Daboy3000, with the rear of the car off the ground and the rear wheels off, the DIY videos should walk you through it with no problem with a 6/10 wrench-turning ability.  Like you, I had never done this Boxster spark plug change before but have turned some wrenches on other car repairs.  When I recently did this job to replace plugs and coil packs, I had three socket extensions (short, medium, long), one of those swivels that allows the extensions to be turned at a slight angle, and a good flashlight, and I was able to reach all the plugs and remove and replace.  For most spark plug swaps, this would be the end of the story, but you asked about "disaster stories," so I have a story that was more of a challenge than a disaster.  Immediately after replacing plugs and coils, I was getting a check engine light.  I used the Durametric software to trouble shoot and the software showed which cylinder was causing the fault.  Since it's easier to move coils than plugs, I first swapped the coil from the faulty cylinder to an adjacent cylinder, but the fault remained in the same cylinder, so that eliminated the plug as the problem.  I then swapped the plug from the faulty cylinder with the plug from an adjacent cylinder and the Durametric software showed the fault moved to the adjacent cylinder.  At that point, it was apparent this one particular brand new Bosch spark plug causing the fault was a dud.  I bought another plug (an NGK...nearest auto parts store didn't have Bosch plugs), replaced the dud plug, and the engine now runs as good as new with five Bosch plugs and one NGK.  I believe my experience was that one in a thousand issue that is rare, but I throw this info out there in case anyone else becomes number two in a thousand.

Edited by Rich in San Diego
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Great to know. One of those moments where you think you feked up and it works out to be ok. Grows confidence no doubt. 

I was thinking of starting up the car after doing one side, just to eliminate any faults earlier.  Any reason why this wouldn't be ok? 

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2 hours ago, Daboy3000 said:

Great to know. One of those moments where you think you feked up and it works out to be ok. Grows confidence no doubt. 

I was thinking of starting up the car after doing one side, just to eliminate any faults earlier.  Any reason why this wouldn't be ok? 

None at all.  It would also help you detect if you have introduced fault before you move all the tools to the other side of the car.

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On 10/27/2022 at 8:24 PM, Nobbie said:

Be careful removing the bolts on the coil packs, mine were Allen key rather than torx, but I have heard of people rounding off the Allen bolts due to poor access. Worth tapping the Allen key in with a small hammer before attempting to turn to make sure it’s properly seated.

+1

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