½cwt Posted February 16, 2023 Report Share Posted February 16, 2023 3 minutes ago, sa utah said: You can certainly look at it but it won't fit. Not if the OPs part is that same as my 2 cars OK, can you post a picture of the tip he will need please. It will help us all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sa utah Posted February 16, 2023 Report Share Posted February 16, 2023 I would if I knew where they were in the vastness of my full garage. Pentalobe Security bit set from Amazon. Not even sure if the MAF is the OPs issue thinking about it but it's worth cleaning it up anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps Posted February 16, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2023 4 hours ago, BBB said: Who knew there were so many types! Still got at least 5 in my Pandora's box that aren't there and I've not got a few that are there either. Lucky enough all I needed was a 7mm nut bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps Posted February 16, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2023 (edited) 10 hours ago, ½cwt said: Something in that box of tricks should do it. I'd be looking at the third row, T20 maybe. @½cwt@BBB@Paul P@skoosh1970@sa utah , and the answer is??? None of them. The MAF on the 987.2 is integral with its housing and hence just held in place with a large Jubillee clip one side. which merely require a 7mm hex bit, and a couple of easily released spring clips on the other (similar to air bob clips on some vehicles. The problem is you can't get it out once detached from the connections either side. From further googling it appears some have dropped the engine by 15mm or so and withdrawn it from underneath. Others have just given it a good squirt of cleaner once released from its connections either side, which is what I've tried to do this afternoon. sadly ran out of daylight so will continue tomorrow. Here are a few pics. Thanks for your replies hereto. Initially I thought it was the large metallic just to the right of the 3 small bore pipes This the connector to it, if anyone can tell me how to remove the plug for any future reason it'd be appreciated. If anyone can tell me how to get this coneector off without using extreme measures I'd appreciate it Once disconnected either side it's impossible to extract from the engine bay from above, apparently some have dropped the engine slightly and dropped it out from underneath. This the the air filter facing side, notice the large grate cover. and this the engine facing side and this is the engine facing side. I've given it all a good squirt of cleaing this evening and will likely give it all another good squirt tomorrow Edited February 16, 2023 by Gramps duplicate pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sa utah Posted February 16, 2023 Report Share Posted February 16, 2023 Oh yeah. That't totally different to my 987.1 cars. Well done on the disassembly and I hop your find the fault. I'd check all the inlet / tubes / vacuum lines for splits etc..... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted February 16, 2023 Report Share Posted February 16, 2023 OK, so we're were ALL wrong! 🤷♀️ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul P Posted February 17, 2023 Report Share Posted February 17, 2023 12 hours ago, Gramps said: @½cwt@BBB@Paul P@skoosh1970@sa utah , and the answer is??? None of them. The MAF on the 987.2 is integral with its housing and hence just held in place with a large Jubillee clip one side. which merely require a 7mm hex bit, and a couple of easily released spring clips on the other (similar to air bob clips on some vehicles. The problem is you can't get it out once detached from the connections either side. From further googling it appears some have dropped the engine by 15mm or so and withdrawn it from underneath. Others have just given it a good squirt of cleaner once released from its connections either side, which is what I've tried to do this afternoon. sadly ran out of daylight so will continue tomorrow. Here are a few pics. Thanks for your replies hereto. Initially I thought it was the large metallic just to the right of the 3 small bore pipes This the connector to it, if anyone can tell me how to remove the plug for any future reason it'd be appreciated. If anyone can tell me how to get this coneector off without using extreme measures I'd appreciate it Once disconnected either side it's impossible to extract from the engine bay from above, apparently some have dropped the engine slightly and dropped it out from underneath. This the the air filter facing side, notice the large grate cover. and this the engine facing side and this is the engine facing side. I've given it all a good squirt of cleaing this evening and will likely give it all another good squirt tomorrow This might help ( factory doc for removal and reinstall MAF on 987.2 - including the wiring connector - which apparently has a fuse built into it!) https://drive.google.com/file/d/127gewPeT2FZR9jTt8O2-Iy1G-h3lpB2u/view?usp=sharing Ping me a message if you cant access the link.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps Posted February 17, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2023 5 hours ago, Paul P said: This might help ( factory doc for removal and reinstall MAF on 987.2 - including the wiring connector - which apparently has a fuse built into it!) https://drive.google.com/file/d/127gewPeT2FZR9jTt8O2-Iy1G-h3lpB2u/view?usp=sharing Ping me a message if you cant access the link.... Thanks for that Paul, I was able to access it ok. If only it was that easy 🙂. Just about to go and carry on with it now. At least it's given me a clue on how to release the wiring. I wondered what the yellow bit was on the connector, seems it's the fuse and you have to remove that then press the tab to release the connector. But I think you need to take the sec tion where it says just "lift it out" with a pinch of salt. If the engine cover tab wasn't in the way maybe, but everything I've googled says they've had to drop the engine a tad or just turned it around in situ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 17, 2023 Report Share Posted February 17, 2023 41 minutes ago, Gramps said: Thanks for that Paul, I was able to access it ok. If only it was that easy 🙂. Just about to go and carry on with it now. At least it's given me a clue on how to release the wiring. I wondered what the yellow bit was on the connector, seems it's the fuse and you have to remove that then press the tab to release the connector. But I think you need to take the sec tion where it says just "lift it out" with a pinch of salt. If the engine cover tab wasn't in the way maybe, but everything I've googled says they've had to drop the engine a tad or just turned it around in situ. My mechanic didn't have to drop the engine ( i've just called him to enquire ) although he did say that it's tight but be patient. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted February 17, 2023 Report Share Posted February 17, 2023 I imagine it is one of those you need to get to exactly the right orientation to get in and out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps Posted February 17, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2023 2 hours ago, skoosh1970 said: My mechanic didn't have to drop the engine ( i've just called him to enquire ) although he did say that it's tight but be patient. @½cwt@BBB@Paul P@skoosh1970@sa utah , I tried it every which way. With everything in situ I don't know how it can come straight out. As you can see from the pics there is some pipework which you could release, and a connector for something or other just left lower of the rubber sleeve. They could possibly be removed/pulled out the way to create a tad more leaway. Another option may be to remove the air filter box then slip it out that way. But as the sensor itself is not really accessible as it's in the middle of it's integral housing there probably isn't much to be gained from the full removal of the MAF anyway and easiest option is just to turn it every which way and squirt everything in sight, which is what I've done. I've stuck it back together using some food grade silicon grease on the rubber seals. Started it up and management light came on. Couldn't find any codes using my icarsoft v.02. Popped down the supermarket stopped and started again but still there. But after coming back to the car no light. Took it for a spin, gave it some beans, and all good so far. Tickover seems ok now? Maybe it's done some good? Will suck it and see. As an aside I took it for a spin with the engine cover off, you hear a few more noises that way but didn't notice anything untoward. Thanks all for your input 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps Posted February 17, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2023 14 minutes ago, ½cwt said: I imagine it is one of those you need to get to exactly the right orientation to get in and out. quite possibly, but I don't think would ever have found it, Lord knows I tried 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps Posted April 9, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2023 @½cwt@BBB@skoosh1970@sa utah Hi All. Thanks for input on this a short while ago. Just thought I'd update you that I found the issue. Turned out to be a not fully tightened oil filler cap 🙃. Who'd have thought?? I raised another post for the EML warning I had come up and it was suggested I check my AOS. I was advised to try and remove the oil filler cap with the engine running. So started the car and it was running really lumpy, which it was doing on start up from cold but would settle down after 10secs or so, went to the rear of the car, opened the boot and could hear a loud hissing sound??? It was coming from the oil filler cap. Gave it a 1/8th (?) turn more to fully tighten it and engine immediately ran smooth. Reset all my codes and no issues having driven it around giving it the occasional beans. Thanks again for your input all. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBB Posted April 9, 2023 Report Share Posted April 9, 2023 Brilliant that it was an easy fix after all. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted April 9, 2023 Report Share Posted April 9, 2023 I love 'free' fixes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps Posted April 9, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2023 31 minutes ago, ½cwt said: I love 'free' fixes. Glad I didn't fork out on a new MAF which was a strong possibility 🙂. The cost of that then the hassle to fit it??? I would've been gutted to go through all that to then find a loose oil filler cap 🤣 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted April 9, 2023 Report Share Posted April 9, 2023 4 hours ago, Gramps said: Glad I didn't fork out on a new MAF which was a strong possibility 🙂. The cost of that then the hassle to fit it??? I would've been gutted to go through all that to then find a loose oil filler cap 🤣 The hazards of internet diagnosis! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps Posted April 9, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2023 2 hours ago, ½cwt said: The hazards of internet diagnosis! That hint of a possibility of the MAF came from this site 😲🤣. But always open to all sugge🙂stions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iborguk Posted April 9, 2023 Report Share Posted April 9, 2023 Always a good idea to check the 710 cap 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted April 10, 2023 Report Share Posted April 10, 2023 9 hours ago, iborguk said: Always a good idea to check the 710 cap I've heard of the up issue of the water cap, but not the 710 cap, mines is still the yellow one, is it OK? 🤣 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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