The dreaded engine check light

[Whizzard986]

I’m making a request for help here as I’m well out of my comfort zone!

After a few days of popping and banging on start-up after which the engine would settle down, it went into limp home mode with check light at first flashing and then staying on permanently. 
 

Initially I thought coil packs which why I posted on the “opinions about coil packs thread.” Anyway because I can’t drive the car owing to this problem I called in a mobile professional to read my fault codes and they listed the following and then cleared the codes.

P0102 hot film maf sensor

P1128 oxygen sending adaptation idle range Bank 1

P1125 oxygen sensing adaptation lower load range Bank 1

P1133 oxygen sensing adaptation lower load range Bank 2

P0107 map sensor

total misfire on all 6 cylinders detected , 

I thought having renewed plugs, tubes, coil packs that might cure the problem but no…..

First attempt at starting engine she fired up normally for a few seconds and then stopped. Second turn of the key same thing. Third turn she was back to popping and banging through the air cleaner and engine check light illuminated.

I’ve asked for another read of the fault codes but I’m reluctant to pay another substantial fee for this privilege.

can any of our eggspurtes on here help with decoding the codes? I’m assuming that I can rule out the coil packs and plugs as these are now new BERU items. Also it seems strange that all these faults appeared at the same time. Maybe it could be the Crank PS but I’m guessing here. Can anybody guide me in the right direction please.

[iborguk]

Whereabouts are you based , another forum member may be nearby.

Maybe consider buying a code reader to mitigate the reliance/cost on someone else re diagnosis ?

If you want something which can read Porsche specific stuff with a certain amount of coding ability this reads like a good option but there are others from about £20 with more generic capabilities 

https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_FXNT530P.html

And hang on your "My Ride"...Capri 2.8i ? Pics !

 

Edited August 13, 2023 by iborguk

[½cwt]

As it is both banks, the common links are either MAF or CPS, the latter with possible hot starting issues as well.  Manifold pressure sensor would also relate per the codes.  First test is to unplug the MAF, left handside in the top of the engine bay which will force a default engine map.

Which version of the 986 is it, 2.5, 2.7 or 3.2 and which year?  There as different MAFs and I can match you up with the Porsche and Bosch part numbers, Bosch (which is identical to the OE one as Bosch supply them to Porsche and even ahs the Porsche part number mou8lded into the plastic) is about 60% of the Porsche price.  When mine failed I actually when with a used one which is still going strong 4 years later at £35 from a breaker as opposed to 3 or 4 times that for brand new.  I figure I can afford to do that a couple more times compared to the cost of a new one.

[iborguk]

20 minutes ago, Whizzard986 said:

I’m making a request for help here as I’m well out of my comfort zone!

After a few days of popping and banging on start-up after which the engine would settle down, it went into limp home mode with check light at first flashing and then staying on permanently. 
 

Initially I thought coil packs which why I posted on the “opinions about coil packs thread.” Anyway because I can’t drive the car owing to this problem I called in a mobile professional to read my fault codes and they listed the following and then cleared the codes.

P0102 hot film maf sensor

P1128 oxygen sending adaptation idle range Bank 1

P1125 oxygen sensing adaptation lower load range Bank 1

P1133 oxygen sensing adaptation lower load range Bank 2

P0107 map sensor

total misfire on all 6 cylinders detected , 

I thought having renewed plugs, tubes, coil packs that might cure the problem but no…..

First attempt at starting engine she fired up normally for a few seconds and then stopped. Second turn of the key same thing. Third turn she was back to popping and banging through the air cleaner and engine check light illuminated.

I’ve asked for another read of the fault codes but I’m reluctant to pay another substantial fee for this privilege.

can any of our eggspurtes on here help with decoding the codes? I’m assuming that I can rule out the coil packs and plugs as these are now new BERU items. Also it seems strange that all these faults appeared at the same time. Maybe it could be the Crank PS but I’m guessing here. Can anybody guide me in the right direction please.

Have you tried disconnecting the MAF as a test to see if the car runs better ? 

[Whizzard986]

Well thank you all for replies so far! It’s great having a forum which is helpful instead of making daft comments.

I’ve made a bit more progress. Having disconnected the MAF as suggested the engine does run better. Not quite perfectly but no popping and backfiring. I cleaned the MAF with carb cleaner and refitted but then all the old symptoms returned. Looks like a new MAF is required?

My Boxster is a 2000my 2.7, vin no. WPOZZZ98ZYU601323. Looking at the MAF there is a raft of numbers inscribed on it PBT-GF30 027291 then some Porsche type numbers 0 280 218 053 and 986 606 125 00 and then at the bottom 084 252 C. I guess its important to get the correct MAF for the car.

With regard to the earlier discussion on BoXa.net on coil packs and plugs 1/2cwt mentioned BERU ZS178 packs and I ordered these from AUTODOC and despite the naysayers it looks like they are here and being delivered this week. Let’s see what turns up. I don’t now need them as I thought they would take ages so I bought some from Fraser parts but I’m willing to let the 6xZS178 go to whoever wants them for what I paid.

I’m based near High Wycombe in South Bucks and did post a request for some help with a code reader to those guys who expressed willingness to help but nobody has yet come forward.

[iborguk]

Sounds like the MAF is at least part of the issue based on your test outcome.

986 606 125 00 is the Porsche part number of your current MAF.

Edited August 13, 2023 by iborguk

[½cwt]

51 minutes ago, iborguk said:

Sounds like the MAF is at least part of the issue based on your test outcome.

986 606 125 00 is the Porsche part number of your current MAF.

This part has been up issued to 986 606 125 02 (986 606 125 01 would be fine too) which comes as the complete housing with the sensor in it and will set you back upwards of £500 from Porsche.  The Bosch sensor only is 0 280 218 055 you will make a saving down to about £160.  Second hand or from a breaker, like I did, about £35...  Buy two and still save over 50% on the Bosch part new, just in case one is duff, or you'll have a spare on the shelf already.

The retaining screws are a 6 point Torx but with a pin in the centre so you'll need a hollow tipped Torx bit.  They can be tough to shift. 

Edited August 13, 2023 by ½cwt

[iborguk]

A number of options on the Bay of E including...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272242700603?hash=item3f62edf13b:g:tWQAAOSw9tlb4FR0&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4JxeqQ08vunsrx6X48MFNLjmTfetWrQClBJaqsTHBMq3YMc6TVH4K7WM98KzwswCI6yEG7I0ksDntCrjA4OmCv5q1hVvv16q%2B6b6ztTQruuQWumFtazTQMG8B61fvKqLB0wFnJwnfVaQvIC%2B59hFG%2F0KRxw2p0LkR2avYPbX8jZ6Aa2R3hVUocOo03SL6ODX%2BnL9IUf4koSkykjzReLMNzEL%2FtxCNslK1DyN8rqtJrxO7%2FxBqhCHClkCPb3K918PAOmMp4E3pqEBZB%2FA9%2FjGfcAcUtuI%2FY8wCWQck%2FTZ0iEJ|tkp%3ABk9SR7raoIK-Yg

[½cwt]

9 minutes ago, iborguk said:

A number of options on the Bay of E including...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272242700603?hash=item3f62edf13b:g:tWQAAOSw9tlb4FR0&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4JxeqQ08vunsrx6X48MFNLjmTfetWrQClBJaqsTHBMq3YMc6TVH4K7WM98KzwswCI6yEG7I0ksDntCrjA4OmCv5q1hVvv16q%2B6b6ztTQruuQWumFtazTQMG8B61fvKqLB0wFnJwnfVaQvIC%2B59hFG%2F0KRxw2p0LkR2avYPbX8jZ6Aa2R3hVUocOo03SL6ODX%2BnL9IUf4koSkykjzReLMNzEL%2FtxCNslK1DyN8rqtJrxO7%2FxBqhCHClkCPb3K918PAOmMp4E3pqEBZB%2FA9%2FjGfcAcUtuI%2FY8wCWQck%2FTZ0iEJ|tkp%3ABk9SR7raoIK-Yg

Wow, he's selling them cheaper than 4 years ago!  Buy 3 to make sure you are covered.

[Whizzard986]

Thanks guys for all your helpful comments. I’ve ordered a good (I hope) used MAF and will give that a go. I’ll keep you posted. 
Once I can get the car mobile I’ll have a few more options.

[Menoporsche]

Did you try unplugging the existing one first? If you do and there is no change to running then it is less likely to be the MAF at fault. 
 

If you unplug and the running improves, it certainly needs replacement. 

Edited August 13, 2023 by Menoporsche

[½cwt]

1 minute ago, Menoporsche said:

Did you try unplugging the existing one first? If you do and there is no change to running then it is less likely to be the MAF at fault. 
 

If you unplug and the running improves, it certainly needs replacement. 

He did and it improved.  Symptoms return when plugged back in.

 

See 7 posts up... 

[Menoporsche]

It’s been a long day, sorry. 

[Whizzard986]

Hi guys

I said that I would let you all know how things turned out. After some very useful advice on ‘ere I disconnected the maf sensor and found that the engine ran smoothly with no backfiring. Reconnecting the maf brought back all the old symptoms so it was reasonable to assume that the maf was at fault. Carefully cleaning the old maf with carb cleaner made no difference. My 2000my 2.7 Boxster 986 original maf part number was 986 606 125 00. Advice on ‘ere seemed to indicate that I needed a part no. Ending in 125 01. Thanks to iborguk who sent me a web link to Steve Strange at Douglas Valley breakers who listed the correct maf. A steal at £22.85 if it works.

Well having fitted said maf, running is now much better with plenty of power and no stuttering and backfiring through the air intake. However the engine check light is still on! Does this have to be cleared with a code reader or will it clear itself? Also after the motor was well warmed up, a quick blast revealed a big flat spot at about 70mph and at the same time I was horrified to see that the rev counter was stuck indicating 7000rpm! Fortunately revs got nowhere near that but I did back off at 82 mph and power was restored. 

I feel more confident in using the car now so will try a longer trip next time but I obviously need to clear any remaining codes and reset the check light. Can anybody tell me whether having the check light illuminated from a previous fault is likely to affect engine performance until it’s is cleared? Will driving with check light on but no apparent faults showing cause any problems?

Many thanks for all those who took the trouble to contribute useful advice. Whatever else is wrong with my Boxster at least it now has new plugs, plug tubes and coil packs!

I was lead to believe (and from my own experience) ordering stuff from AUTODOC and coming from Europe would be a lengthy process. So not wanting to wait I ordered elsewhere as well at a substantially higher price. The order from AUTODOC was delivered unusually quickly. These items are suitable for 03-08 Boxster/Cayman 986/987 and Carrera 996/997 they are 6x new BERU Z178 coil packs and 6x new BERU spark plugs for which I paid a total of £170.04. I would be happy to let them go for what I paid or I could simply return them foc. Should anybody need coil packs and plugs just PM me.

Thanks again to the folks on this forum which has been very helpful to me.

[Paul P]

Sounds like a few things going on.  
 

some causes of the “light” will self correct straight away.  Some will base themselves on “I have started and run n number of times and bad thing hasn’t been recorded - I will turn the light off”

 

reality is you won’t know unless you get the codes read.  For the engine light chances are it’s a generic code that a cheap reader will be able to read and clear.  25 quid Amazon one is a good bet - but no guarantees.  
 

But. Flat spot and crazy rev counter aren’t typical.  And may have different or common cause.  For that.  You would need something (or someone ) with diags with some Porsche smarts.  
 

Depends on if you can find a friendly nearby.  If not then consider getting a cheap reader and see what it says but I suspect there is more to be investigated than a simple emissions based code.  

[Whizzard986]

Thanks Paul, your comments appreciated. I will try a few more miles to see if a pattern emerges and then see what codes are stored.

[Rjg]

Using this post as a reference I have the same message, Oxygen sensing adaption idle range Bank 2 but no CEL.

Does this mean I can discount a MAF fault and concentrate on looking for an air or exhaust leak somewhere.?

[Whizzard986]

Hi Rjg

Im assuming you’ve plugged in a code reader and seen this message? But why did you start looking? Do you have a misfire or some other symptom? In my case the engine would barely run and there were so many fault codes suddenly showing it clearly wasn’t all of them at once. Disconnecting the maf produced a marked improvement in running even after having renewed plugs and coil packs. A good second hand maf cured the rough running and the CEL then cured itself. My plug in icarsoft reader now shows no codes.

In your case no CEL presumably means the fault is relatively minor.

[½cwt]

1 hour ago, Rjg said:

Using this post as a reference I have the same message, Oxygen sensing adaption idle range Bank 2 but no CEL.

Does this mean I can discount a MAF fault and concentrate on looking for an air or exhaust leak somewhere.?

Highly likely to be bank specific, therefore not MAF.

[Rjg]

Thanks Chris,  Bank 2 is drivers side yes and would a faulty or failing lambada throw up a CEL?
 

[Rjg]

10 hours ago, Whizzard986 said:

Hi Rjg

Im assuming you’ve plugged in a code reader and seen this message? But why did you start looking? Do you have a misfire or some other symptom? In my case the engine would barely run and there were so many fault codes suddenly showing it clearly wasn’t all of them at once. Disconnecting the maf produced a marked improvement in running even after having renewed plugs and coil packs. A good second hand maf cured the rough running and the CEL then cured itself. My plug in icarsoft reader now shows no codes.

In your case no CEL presumably means the fault is relatively minor.

I used a code reader to erase the Airbag light after fixing my annoying horn problem and it came up when I auto scanned.

Tbh, without the reading apart from a very minor difference in revs at idle I wouldn’t have noticed anything. Car passed its MOT recently with no advisories on emissions. Thanks for reply btw.👍

[½cwt]

2 hours ago, Rjg said:

Thanks Chris,  Bank 2 is drivers side yes and would a faulty or failing lambada throw up a CEL?
 

Bank 2 is left side. (RHD passenger side).  More likely a joint leak.  Took mine to MOT last week and we had to do a bit of jiggery-pokery to get to under 1.030 to pass on lambda, left side of exhaust was iffy to say the least (1.070 at one point), but once run up to 6k for a minute (yes I really mean about 60 seconds) or so to heat everything up we got the right side down to 1.028 which is what went on the test result.  No CEL but I'm suspecting an air leak but as the flange bolts are just flaky rust it would be not surprise.  I've not put the iCarsoft reader on it yet to test it for any underling readings.

[Rjg]

Thanks …again Chris. I suspect a slight exhaust leak so will get it up on ramps and take a look underneath if and when this weather 

brighten up. I thought car handled well before front suspension refresh but it was not a patch on what it’s like now.😁

Might attempt to do the rear this winter.

[½cwt]

The places to look are the U bend joints up inside the bumper and also the triangular flange to the manifold from the cat.

The suspension costs, but well worth it.