Boxob

2 hours ago, Amaboknaai said:

Such a pity, really. I had a 3-stalk up for sale on eBay and informed this forum. Sold for £150 less the eBay fees.

Hi B. How's the golf going?

I noted you had that for sale but decided to buy new as the last s/h one I bought also broke prematurely in the same place. Brittle plastic due to age?

I now have two broken ones so a €44 fix could result in a £150 sale each.

I've just bought a new indicator/wiper stalk unit from Porsche, it was just shy of £300 with discount.  Makes €44 a bit of a bargain if a repair works. 

13 hours ago, ½cwt said:

They are renowned for the plastic around the nozzle splitting and spaying everything except the lights. If you need them, about £160 each from Porsche. No aftermarket option that I'm aware of.

Several years ago someone on here reported a fix using a bmw part for not much ££.

6 hours ago, 999mch said:

Thanks @Boxob I knew it had it's only battery but didn't know it was replaceable. I will have a look at that, although at the moment I am quite happy to know it will not go off and wake the neighbors up !

It's not supposed to have a replaceable battery, its a sealed unit, but people have split it along the seam, replaced the battery (actually a number of button batteries shrink wrapped like a tube of Polos) and resealed the unit. 

On 2/14/2024 at 3:52 PM, 999mch said:

Well the alarm went off at 10pm, checked it all over but wouldn't even switch off when the car was started. Then noticed the CEL light had come on. Checked and it was trouble with Cylinder 6. That is ok I have a new coil pack, can do that in the morning! Out again at 11:30pm as alarm started going off again, have you ever tried to disconnect the alarm at almost midnight, I don't recommend it. Out at 7:30am to jack up car, remove rear wheel, replace coil pack on cylinder 6, put it all back together and ready to start work at 8am. All this so I can take it to the Indy at lunch time to get new front suspension springs fitted ! Don't you just love them !

The alarm siren unit has rechargeable batteries which draw their recharge from the main battery. Your car is at an age that the rechargeable batteries probably no longer hold their charge and put an almost constant draw on the main battery. This gets interpreted by the car that it's being tampered with and sets off the alarm. 

The alarm siren batteries in the alarm module can be DIY replaced - there's a YouTube video - or you can just disconnect the siren module which is what I have done. The horn will still sound when the alarm goes off.

Just now, phazed said:

Looks like I will be taking off the door panel tomorrow to have a look. Was just looking for pointers if anyone had these symptoms before. I don’t think I can operate the central locking as I haven’t the immobiliser and I believe this ties everything in.

Will check your idea tomorrow, thanks.

It certainly can cause the symptom you describe as it happened to me!

5 minutes ago, phazed said:

I am running out of things to do on my car while I await my immobiliser, (that’s another story!) back from being repaired, hopefully.

Drivers door won’t unlock from the outside with the key, (or it could be unlocked) and so will have to be opened from inside the car.

Apparently this is quite common-ish.

Can someone let me know why and what I need to rectify the problem.

Thanks.

Have you (or previous owner)  had the driver's side lock module off the door? There is a 'blade' which links the external lock with the internal lock module so when you turn the key it turns the mechanism of the lock module. It is possible to fail to connect the blade to the lock module when refitting it.

Sorry to depart from advice above but bendix drives should not be greased. It collects dust, hardens and stops the bendix working. They should be cleaned and left dry but If you can't resist maybe some silicon spray.

3 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Here's a plan.

Years ago The Better ½ and I agreed we'd have an amount each month put into our own separate accounts from out joint account.  We could do what we wanted with that, but had to include costs of presents to each other.  IIRC it started at £100 per month back in 2002 and rose over time to £180 per month each now.  I pay for anything that isn't standard annual service, tyres, tax, insurance, MOT for the Boxster (so restoration work, accessories and tools) and my Le Mans trips out of mine.  We get also get to bank any TopCashBack earned on our work expenses, so back in 2018/19 when I had to pay for all work expenses and claim back I had to spend 16 weeks going to and from Scandinavia each week, so 1% or 6% here 10% there on hotels, airport parking and car hire etc got me another £850 towards the Boxster, so paid for most of the suspension refresh parts.  Sadly I have to book travel centrally now with current employer and don't travel as much either.  She does Spa trips and evenings out with friends and the like.  Avoids questions about where the money goes.

And if she's lucky, Better½ gets a bar of chocolate for her birthday!

One way to stretch your budget is for you both to agree that Spa trips come out the joint account. You'd get atleast one track day in Belgium before a foul's called! 😅

Had mine since 2010. Not sure which one of us will go first! 😅

@Araf could this be moved from How to to say lounge?

4 hours ago, edc said:

Doing that would make the fire worse surely. 

Another reason not to do it although with the side vents I suspect there would be plenty of oxygen already getting to the flames. 

My view if the engine catches fire get out and walk away.

4 hours ago, technics100 said:

Honestly none... Just thought it wouldn't do any harm for something so old.. hopefully I'll never need it.

I think the real issue is access.  If the car's on fire would you stay in long enough to put the car's hood into service position and remove the engine cover (which would be very hot) to access the engine? No, nor would I!  Could help another motorist though.

Consider pealing back only the top of the waterproof membrane (on the lock side) sufficient to do the work. This avoids disturbing the bottom 6 or so inches of the waterproof membrane which is the most important area for avoiding leaks (assuming it's not already leaking!).

As per @Daboy3000 solution above you have to get the key into the ignition and turned to wake the system. I had this issue and removed the stitching from the top driver's side of the rear plastic window to create a triangle large enough to pass a steel rod with the key taped to the end. It's obviously not going to work if you have a glass rear window! The other option is to break the driver's side window. Line up a secondhand one to replace it.

This is on a 1998 model.

21 hours ago, mortzz said:

Update on this is I've done the job but can say the bottom clip is really bad and nearly impossible to do even with the correct cable pliers,  I bought a full kit off ebay for £40 and with every type of pliers for different clips,  the issue is just space..  very very tight..  so Pelican parts sell the bottom clip with a special plastic clip attached to it, you then pull the  clip out once in place , still not foolproof for me as you only get one shot at getting it on correctly, probably took me 3 attempts even with the correct tool

Would it be easier if the bottom tube is cut through (hack saw blade? secateurs?) The AOS is lifted out, then the remnants of the lower tube and clip removed with, presumably, better access from above.  Obviously a new bottom tube will be required. I think this is Torque Porsches method.

1 hour ago, hopz121 said:

I drove to cotswold  

Surrey prices are silly in comparison for the work I needed done it was nearly double for some stuff, I was happy to drive down there for the day. 

I found Cotswolds even cheaper than Torque boxers too but for the area his prices are reasonable. 

Going back next month to cotswold for some more suspesion work done. 

Thank you.  Did Cotswold's price include the AOS or did you supply it?

10 minutes ago, hopz121 said:

I had my AOS done yesterday at a well respected specialist and the Bill for that scope of the work totalled £171.27 inc vat

£400 is a joke!

I see you're Surrey based. Where did you have the work done?

Try A-Plan at Bletchley. They've always found me a good policy at a reasonable price.

32 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Started doing AOS replacement.  Then the long reach hose clip pliers broke.  They are now on their way back to the Amazon supplier along with a 1* review posted for the time.  Put all the hoses back on the old one and I've decided to let Dove House do it when it is serviced in December.  The old one is giving the occasional reedy whistle so nothing major at the moment.

So spent some time working on The Better ½'s recently acquired car instead.  3 different tyre brands and even the two that match are half a lifetime apart in wear/age...

Well that doesn't fill me with confidence. I've been waiting for you to replace your AOS before tackling mine. Hoped I'd learn from you and your posts about it. Well I have - outsource it! Which long reach hose clip pliers failed? 

1998 Boxster and mine has a delay. Instant alarm is not right but I can't offer an explanation or solution.

18 hours ago, Alan36 said:

Is there a how to for the indicator not cancelling fix?

There's not really a fix. A plastic spur which activates the cancel function has snapped off. Replacement is the remedy.

Another thought/test. Fuel filler caps are generally universal. You could try a filler cap from another car and see if that makes a noise.

I was expecting something more dramatic! That doesn't seem enough suck or blow to bypass the seal on the petrol cap and make a noise - if that is indeed the problem. Was there a good seal between the cling film and filler tube?

Can anyone duplicate the test to see if that's normal (I would but my car has a suspected AOS issue)?