Boxob
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Posts posted by Boxob
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2 hours ago, RedBarediver said:
Autodoc = £129.56 for two condensers of the same brand as design911 sell.
Design 911 = £226.27
this does include the dessicator and all the O-rings etc. buuuuut then I can just order the dessicator and O-rings from D911 and the condensers from Autodoc.
I think that will save me a ton of money to put towards some Zunsport grilles...
Coolpartsuk £96.50 free delivery 🙂.
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12 minutes ago, RedBarediver said:
The upshot of it is that my left-hand condenser is leaking like a sieve. The pipes etc all check out fine. I figure in for a penny in for a pound, so I'll get two new condensers from Autodoc and fit them. Hopefully then I can have the system recharged and have working aircon again. I do hate it when something doesn't work properly
Check out Coolpartsuk on ebay before ordering from Autodoc. Usually competitvely priced and good quality.
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@RickLS7 If on your final approach to the airfield you have to abort, e.g. something on the runway, do you usually have enough speed to go round again?
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2 hours ago, danb said:
Can someone with a working 986 remote confirm a few things for me:
If you use the remote when the windows are down does it lock? Any beeps?
Note it may be model year specific so ideally you need to know what a 2000 model does. I doubt it would beep as I think you can lock the car with the hood and windows down.
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It'll not take off! 😉
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6 minutes ago, danb said:
It should be isolated apparently. Does "open" in the status mean it's attached or isolated though I wonder...
HU out and have a look! Try the opposite to what it currently is.
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17 minutes ago, danb said:
Picked up an icarsoft v3 to read the codes, there were a couple of stored alarm codes from replacing the battery. Cleared them and then tried to lock/unlock with remote and manually. No new codes but remote still not working and single honk when manually locking
Checked the real time view and all the doors, cubby and roof show as closed.
The only thing that seemed to stick out was "input signals - Radio contact: open"
Also the same for Input1 which also shows as open....
Is this the sensor on the side of the cd/radio and should it show as open or closed?
This rings a bell. Has the HU been changed? Apparently there is a wire which must either be attached to the HU (or frame) or isolated from it (more likely). This has come up before so a search mught be fruitful.
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986 hardtop
in 986
The early ones had oblong 'ears' on the side panel just behind the doors. The ears don't stop the earlier hardtop fitting a later model 986.
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So what have you already got?
On mine I have central locking, heated mirrors (and rear heated screen if a hard top is fitted), hood activation, traction control.
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Is the accelerator pedal moving freely? Could it or the throttle cable be sticking and not returning to fully close the throttlebody butterfly?
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46 minutes ago, letsmile said:
SQUEELING STARTER MOTOR - I've been taking a look at the cause of the squeeling and understand it to be the starter motor drive not retracting and disengaging from the flywheel quickly enough, so it ends up getting spun at a high rate, thus generating the squeel. Just looking at starter motors and see an absolute myriad of them starting at 70€ up to an eye watering 470€ 😲
Is there really such a major difference in the quality that drives such a massive cost difference, and has anyone had any experience with the lower cost starters?????? Would be great to get any feedback before I launch into buying the next part 👍
A thorough clean of the bendix drive is what's usually required to stop the squealing. Do not lubricate it.
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Do report it to the police. Others may have had damage to their vehicles and it'll help build a picture. Might even help catch the culprits!
Hope you get it fixed without too much hassle.
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@RedBarediver have pm'd you.
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Replaced the driver's side lock actuator with a use original one supplied by @TROOPER88. Many thanks. No more double beeping on locking and unlocking. Hurray!
Fiddly but not a difficult job.
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Happy result. What did the authority say as their reason for not contesting the appeal?
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Took it for a blast then off for its MoT. It passed with no advisories but not before the garage first refused it for highlights being too low. They adjusted them (£10 charge) and then put it through on a retest (£10 charge). I was told it took three attempts to pass emissions. The engine was as hot as hell when I picked it up!
Anyway, another year sorted. 😁
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I think it'll be a sticking microswitch in one of the door lock actuators (probably driver's side).
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Make sure your car is level, front to back and side to side, and not recently run before taking oil readings.
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Yesterday replaced the indicator switch which had ceased to auto cancel and fixed a random tooting horn using the 'O' ring fix (see youtube). Easy DIY jobs.
Today, got under the car to fix what I thought was a lose manifold to cat pipe flange. It wasn't. It was a lose tubular heat shield. The jubilee clip i used to fix the rattle 12 years ago had disolved! Another jubilee clip did the job. Made a diary note to buy another jubilee clip in 12 years time.
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2 hours ago, letsmile said:
Today the repair parts arrived for my door lock issue with the key moving but not engaging, so tomorrow, all being well, I'll get them fitted and get the lock reinstalled. Whilst I've got the door card off is there any other maintenance that would be helpful to do before reassembling???
You could lubricate the window regulator mechanism. The cable snaps and also the window can squeak so a bit of lubrication can only help.
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I struggle to believe the owners of these bikes and scooters do not carry third party liability insurance. Badly discarded bikes after rental are a trip hazard. I bet a no win no fee lawyer would have a field day.
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Undertray cracked and flapping at speed
in 987
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How about 'sewing' up using zip ties in pre-drilled holes?