Boxob

50 minutes ago, SilverBud said:

That's very odd. Did you get hold of your CoC from Porsche and if so what were your NOx readings? I would imagine that if those details are'nt on your V5C then you simply get dumped into a general 'fail' basket.

Your Box is the same year and model as mine so I can't imagine why you recived that letter if you have provided them with the evidence.

I've not provided them with any evidence. I don't live in London nor travel there much by car so not sure why TfL contacted me (with the wrong information it seems!). But as they have done so it would be nice to correct their records.

4 hours ago, SilverBud said:

It's just arrived this this afternoon at last!

My NOx reads 0.065 g/km.

I can'nt recall what the max level was.. Can someone remind me?? Hope mine is within the limits !

Is this specific to your vehicle or applicable to all 2.5 Boxsters? If this applies generally then TfL should update their records for all 2.5 Boxsters. A case of maladministration if they do not I would have thought.  I ask because I have received a letter from TfL telling me my car, a 1998 2.5 Boxster, does not comply with ULEZ.  

It remains the same although the mods can give dispensation. @Araf

Could this be the Ackermann effect? Wheel hop (and extra strain on the steering mechanism) when doing slow speed tight turns.

You could try disconnecting the battery for a while to see if it resets? (Don't forget key in position 1 before disconnecting).

Even the mighty BoXa.net doesn't have an answer to all technical issues. However if you write up a :How to" that's one more technical issue BoXa.net can resolve in the future! Well done BAS for stepping up!

Buy original. It's one part that is a false economy to buy aftermarket.

I think the OP was fearful of hearing a bang rather than actually hearing one. 

Start with the simplest DIY. Clean (suggest using WD40, a toothbrush and rag) then lubricated the runners (suggest using white grease) and all other moving parts (suggest using a light oil). 

If that doesn't sort it then it points to the motor and 'cables', which are beyond my knowledge.

On 9/5/2021 at 4:16 PM, SilverBud said:

I've just sent my letter off to Porsche UK (customer.assistance@porsche.co.uk) requesting the Certificate of Conformity. Seems like dpg123 had a to wait a while to get a response - hopfully I'll get one sooner than later. Short on time here but if the results come in and they are positive that would be amazing! Will send upates as and when pos.

Any update? Have you received your certificate of conformity and, if so, what does it say?

Did the electrics  - rear control unit I believe - under the passenger seat get wet? If so I'd recommend you dry the unit - remove, inspect and put in airing cupboard. 

Hydrolic steering fluid low? Just a guess but easy to check to discount.

Are you really that fickle? 😄

21 minutes ago, KevM79 said:

Fitted an updated coolant cap as I'm having to top up quite often.

This seems a silly question, but are they extremely difficult to tighten properly?  

I would be quite sure I wasn't getting tightened down onto the seal of the old cap.  & I needed grips to loosen it again after?

The cap shouldn't be that tight. Cross threaded? Clean threads and lightly lubricate.

No I wouldn't and haven't. I've had my 2.5 over 11 years now. 

The extra 27hp is offset by the extra weight of the 2.7 over the 2.5.

Low alarm battery will trigger the alarm. Alarm 'thinks' its being tampered with so activates. 

1 minute ago, ghazalif said:

There are no facts, there are only stories from owners

Hence the problem!

10 minutes ago, ghazalif said:

Interesting, I’ll have to do my own research. I never really looked into whether there’s a difference in failure rates due to the transmission 

It could be just a function of there being fewer tips than manuals so fewer reports of failures but then again it could be due to the absence of a clutch? The problem is getting at the facts! Worth researching before spending!

6 minutes ago, ghazalif said:

Is that true? Is there a reasoning behind the lower failures on the tiptronics? 

It's certainly true that I don't recall such a failure being reported on here. The "general wisdom" is from posts on here and casual internet research I've done on the IMS bearing issue.

1 hour ago, ghazalif said:

I'm looking at triptronic 986s and I'd assume the repair person would know which bearings to use

I thought the general wisdom is that tiptronics have a much reduced IMS bearing failure rate so precautionary changes are harder to justify. In the 11 years I've been on this forum I can't recall one such failure.

44 minutes ago, Paul P said:

it's called "comfort closing" - I am pretty sure 987.1 do it - 987.2's do - it may need to be enabled via diags - but seems to be a default thing - certainly both my 987.2's have done it.

The converse is also true - comfort opening - long press on unlock and the windows drop - useful if its sat baking in the sun all day.

My 1998 986 has comfort opening / closing. AFAIK it was standard (no mention as an option/setting) so should be the same in  987.1.

Check under the carpet. The thick under foam can hold a lot of water without the carpet even feeling damp.  If the Alarm Control Unit (ACU) has got wet then remove it and dry it for several days - you might get lucky. However, if not, its unfortunately an expensive fix.

If you go down the door lock module replacement route then use the appropriate VW / Audi unit (IIRC Golf or TT) as its a fraction of the price of the near identical one from Porsche.

On my 986 a leak developed at that joint. When I inspected, the nut and bolt (head) had rusted away. The joint was being held together only by the stems of the bolts which had corroded in place. I was able to squeeze the joint together with mole grips, then prise it apart using a screw driver between the flanges. After repeatedly doing this I was able to get more and more movement in the joint until it came apart. I then used a hammer and punch to drive out the bolt stem from the half of the flange it was still stuck in. Based on my experience, I'd grind off what remains of the nut and bolt head and work on the joint as I did.

On 4/3/2021 at 2:03 PM, ½cwt said:

 

 

 

Where did you get the external sun visors from? 😉

2 hours ago, SuperPaulie said:

Yep, I've done it. Absolute ballache, unless you are handy with fabrication then I wouldn't even attempt it.

The cables only reach if you trace then back over all the way to the sources and then reroute. Even then you are literally at full length, barely a millimetre left over.

You need to hack to the bottom housing thing, the metal bracket that holds it, the top housing to hold the stereo, and the trickiest bit you need to redesign the fascia that goes around the dials as it's curved so doesn't really work. I filled the rear of it with resin (it's hollow) and then used a bench belt sander to flatten the face of it to remove the curve. The solid resin at the top allowed me to do so without it creating a burned through void. I had left it curved at first but it looked out of place, so after I did all the above I had to either trim or paint it, so I trimmed the lot in leather/vinyl.

It's... yeah, difficult.

 

Impressive outcome though.

To dry the carpet in situ,

1. remove passenger seat.

2. Push your hand into the seam between the back off the carpet and the firewall carpet. Pull the carpet up from the rear. It should "invert" a bit.

3. Slot in towels, newspapers,  anything absorbent under the raised carpet. Stand on the carpet to squeeze out the water. Repeat until as dry as possible.

4. Keep the carpet propped in the "raised" position to allow air to circulated. A heater will help drying.

5. It's possible to refit the seat and still raise the carpet enough to insert a newspaper to continue the drying process.