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6 minutes ago, Bradders59 said:

My car is a 2000 model. So the top pic (bumper I bought today) is likely to be post facelift ?

Should still fit ok ? Grills from air intakes are missing, but I have mesh I can use, which will look ok and keep more of the rubbish out than the grills do.

Top one 2003+ but it's missing the slats and black surround. Mesh can fit behind. If that all you got it will look a bit odd. Plus you will have to fix direct to the rear of the bumper and not the grille surround which is a much nearer finish and look. 

I guess the question you are asking is what is the delta in selling price with a stamped service book Vs one without and how much of that is already sunk in the services. 

The answer as usual is it depends as the longer you keep the car the less important the early services become. 

My 550 had negligible service paperwork when I bought it and no service book. But I was able to verify all the prior OPC dates and mileages of services. Since then it's all indy mixed with a bit of DIY. 

You could do a half way house and just have an inspection or minor/major service as needed but do all the additional maintenance work yourself or elsewhere. This will save some cost. 

2 minutes ago, Panda222 said:

Im a bit confused looking online could you clarify this for me. My car does not have m030 as a code on the options from factory. Does adding those springs lower it 10mm compared to what I currently have? 

If you have a standard car you have standard suspension. If you have the M030 package, it is springs, dampers and arbs, then it is 10mm lower. 

If you are near Mortimer's are your quotes from Parr or Paragon? Maybe try Addspeed. 

I was thinking to use bull dog clips to hold it all in and align 

I would try to agree a purchase where the seller puts 12 months MOT on it. That way you either have 12 months to sort some stuff, it's fixed if it fails, or it fails and the owner doesn't want to fix and you can negotiate the right price. 

On 7/17/2023 at 5:32 PM, ½cwt said:

I tackled this job today to refit the back edge of my hood where the fabric appears to have pulled out.  The glue on the tape strips was shot which explained the movement, however not a particularly easy job and I think I'm going to need to do it again with a different d/s tape.  Should be easier and hopefully give a better result second time...

What tape did you try on the roof?

Clocks changed because of LCD failure perhaps. 

Is it the angle of the photo as the seat looks set quite high? 

I hadnt noticed but mine had been going for a while as it explains why the clam stood a bit proud all those months ago. 

4 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Cleaned it. Silver cars carry dirt quite well but I was still surprised how dirty it was.

Also cleaned the roof and applied Autoglym roof protector which I'd been putting off doing with the recent hot weather and direct sun.  Noticed that the back edge of the hood fabric has stated to come out of the training edge where it is gripped in place.  Any suggestions to DIY fix it?  I have already tried to use some thin edged tools to work it back in but tricky on damp fabric and I seemed to make little progress.

Is the adhesive gone? Seems to be more common now. I still need to stick mine back. Was going to use double sided tape. 

PS2 N3 has been around since at least 2015. 

Most places online, Blackcircles, Kwik fit even. 

If your are sure the sensor has worn for the trigger then the fault will be a break further back.

If the light is on,by definition a sensor has triggered it, and therefore it is not ok. You won't be able to reuse that particular sensor. 

2 hours ago, BenM said:

They cost more than the value of the car, from what I've seen

Yes but I meant for comparative fitting purpose not as an alternative to buy.

I would have a look at the OE GT3 seats to see what the differences are. These can slide and sit low in a 986. 

37 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

These are not the easiest cars to set the geo on, but on the rear camber then track is the correct order.  On my last geo the technician couldn't get the toe correct, but by reducing the camber by about 10', which pulls the bottom of the coffin arm in a fraction and so creates some negative toe, but still green, he got then got the toe spot on as well.  It is a juggling act and knowing what you are doing.  Had you changed the damper the same problem would still have been there (unless the shock was bent...), the geometry of the suspension design.

This effect is much worse on lower cars and the range of adjustment becomes very limited. That is why the adjustable rear toe links are so good. It's not to give more camber but enables less. Without the rear adjustable toe links you will always end up with a lot more rear negative camber than front and exacerbate the under steer bias. You have no chance of squaring up the camber without them. 

The 986 at the time was the entry level every day sports car. I guess similar in ethos to a Golf GTi. That brief means suitable day to day. Many of these cars are now weekend/summer/B road cars and baggy standard suspension doesn't cut it. Tighter and a bit more focus is a good thing. 

On this forum at least I was one of the first to do this. I have already fitted brand new OEM spec M030 to another 986. I had some further dialogue with Chris at Centre Gravity and he confirmed to me then that the FSD was a popular replacement path for 993 owners but had not done a 986 at that time. I took the leap of faith to do it and at the same time the H&R M030 spec spring was recently released. 

I've just looked back through my emails and a quote from CG in there from 2015 "our experience with Koni FSD (and it is only an opinion) is that the high speed bump characteristic is much more compliant, so pot holes / drain covers etc are less apparent through the car. The damper then tends to stiffen up whe. It senses that you want to press on down the twisty roads". 

The H&R M030 spec spring is the best bet. 

Put your ear by the filler cap, is it that? If so as above swap cap or replace seal. 

It's almost like a wind instrument so it's air passing through something. 

Is it the honking noise? 

If you think you will want to experiment with the geo then save yourself the hassle and get the rear adjustable toe links. 

1 hour ago, ½cwt said:

My point was that the humming from the TB could be transmitting through the bulkhead to seem as if it were coming from the DME.  A bit tenuous I know.

Before the engine start if the ignition is switched on you can what the TV and it's more of a higher pitch white noise kind of noise, then the clocks as the throttle plate spins through its action.