edc

Depends what you have and electricity access you have. You can plug it into a wall. 

Lots of old threads on this. You either use the cig lighter connector, use the ringlet over the battery post connector or the croc clip connector and trail the lead over the seal towards the windscreen. 

Use a battery conditioner and don't worry about it. 

27 minutes ago, McDonald said:

Definitely use the Porsche product, for me. Not crazy money.

There's nothing particularly special about coolant. As long as it's the right spec and the same type as what's already in there sling it in! 

That's a 987 tyre size. For 986 standard 18" tyre is 265/35. 

I think it should be ok as 9j is standard wheel and 265 is standard tyre width on 18 plus you can add 15-20mm spacer without many issues. 

1 hour ago, ½cwt said:

If it is leaking, don't ignore the leak and fix it. If there is metal in your oil, fix it.  If it is going to fail it is simply catastrophic.  Don't go looking for problems, or do we all change out the IMSB every 2 years regardless?  What's the advice @edc?

Agree with most of that but not the change every 2 years like a regular service item. There's a school of thought that advocates removing the outer seal to allow fresh oil to lubricate the bearing. If you look at most removed bearings they have no grease in them anyway and are contaminated with oil ie the seals have failed or not made for splash or submerged in oil. Mine was just like this. 

You can also measure the cam deviation. If you did that say every 3 -6 months you'd get some good trend data because unless you are a sadist you won't be removing the gearbox at those intervals. And that is part of the issue, any inspection is subject to gearbox removal. That's a once in a car lifetime type of job for most. 

31 minutes ago, markjh said:

But if you've inspected it and it's OK why would you change it?

You wrote earlier if it ain't broke don't fix it no mention of inspection. Nevertheless, whether you inspect and you think it's good or whether you inspect and you think it's bad, it can still break and if it does you probably won't be fixing it if the engine is grenaded. 

26 minutes ago, markjh said:

I subscribe to the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" school. I would leave it until you need to change the clutch, then inspect the IMS before deciding what, if anything to do at that point.

Had a set back today with mine, turns out the cam chain lock tool delivered today is for a 3-chain engine, rather than 5-chain, took me over an hour to work out why it wouldn't fit.🤔 

The problem with this approach for the IMS is more like if it breaks you ain't fixing it. 

Exactly which is why I did what I could to minimise any variation and used the same rolling road each time. 

https://imgur.com/gallery/s64cXDC

Here's my old plots overlaid. No 987 airbox but increase for each mod from circa 3.5k rpm.

Symptom of engine mount. Had the same a long time ago and changed out for a new 987 engine mount. 

Gearbox mounts for Boxsters are engine mounts in 911. 

Or even an aftermarket hood as that one appears to be. 

No an old member marseille made them and I bought them off him. 

Also found a pic of my adjustable toe links before there were rebuilt with a higher spec Fluoro rod end.

https://imgur.com/a/lywJN

1 hour ago, ATM said:

Ok I see, thanks ...  couple of questions if i may ....

So does the alloy piece on the top just pop off - and did you leave them like this with it off when you refitted or put it back on?

Either way this looks doable with them still on the bracket to me, right?

If mine have sagged will this un-sag them?

Also - do I just order any 85 shore PU?

 

 

If yours have sagged I guess it's because the hydraulic fluid has leaked. Where the orange is is normally a metal dome which contains the hydraulic fluid. They fit on the car just as above. 

I didn't do these but still have my originals in the garage. I would drill the dome drain the fluid then Dremel off the dome. You can go harder on the PU but 85 and bottom side only was mostly a hunch. 

Found an old pic here they are 

https://imgur.com/H5EOa1u

Not sure I'd use a PU sealant. From memory mine was a 85 shore hardness. 

If it's a snooker ball type of sound and is worse over cobbles then yes tuning forks is the main culprit. 

23 minutes ago, kdh said:

No suspension work as yet apart from a couple of drop links. Car is on 105k.

Only audible sign is a clanking/rattle from the rear over uneven surfaces.

obviously I’d hate to change dampers if not needed but it’s hard to tell if worn out or not isn’t it?

Are you looking for best handling and ride / perfection or just adequate and working? I'd the latter just leave as is. My current 986 was on 105k 10 years ago and benefitted from new suspension as did my then 65k 12 year old car. 

I've not done the change myself but have driven both back to back. If you are more pottering and more about the daily or around town ride comfort then this is the way forward. 

2 hours ago, ½cwt said:

No number plate covering the deeper scalloping between the upper face and the chin.

The S has the centre grille for the centre rad.  The face lift bumpers would 'plug and play' on an older model car.

Not quite I don't think. On the front the air dams might be different. And on the rear the spoiler is different too. 

You need to know what is the actual difference in the service. If you look at Eporscb website for example there isn't a huge amount of difference in a minor Vs major and if you were a good DIY'er and did low mileage it may make no difference if you had 2 or even 3 minor services in a row. 

My car for example did 125 miles the last year and maybe 300 miles the year before. I still changed the spark plugs but honestly it's completely OTT. 

Has plastic vacuum forming evolved since I was at school to do this sort of work?