edc

https://www.BoXa.net/topic/59044-edcs-550-anniversary/?do=findComment&comment=722674

Zip ties once bumper removed. 

Sounds like you are looking for good excuses to tell her why the camera is rubbish. 

Then don't worry about whether it works great or not just get it in and be done with it 😆

The newer Boxsters have the camera in the same place. If you don't want one or need one or think you'd ever use it I wouldn't bother. If it's a weekend car and you drive mostly with roof down and not parallel parking in town centres regularly I think I'd also leave it. 

Anecdotal, but quite a few here have done this and I can't recall many or any posts complaining about the picture not being functional. 

Pretty much all cameras are mounted in the same place above the number plate where the light is. 

Having done a lot to the car already I'd put the money towards in this order, some nice light buckets, gearbox rebuild with diff and maybe shorter gear set, 3.7 rebuild. 

If you have a facelift car with the power switch to open the front then you can use the fusebox red tab to pop the bonnet. You might as well test it now while you can. 

Can you run a really long extension cable to it? Out the window down the side of the building. 

Just remove the light unit or close the latch. 

Another way night be to track the gear cables, follow centre console, under dash to fusebox, up A pillar.

There's lots of ways to slice the cake. When I did it there was nobody to copy so if it was a company doing it you'd call it development, or guess work for a home garage DIY! I actually bought a several metre length of drain pipe to model with and was originally looking at Marley and other similar plumbing and drainage products to mock up a design 😁 

I didn't have the patience or time to develop it further. Once a working design was on that was it, it stayed on. There was no thought to optimise it. IIRC, @Patt when we came to do the same on @Patt car the silicone hose ID was 80mm. If I was to do it again I'd likely aim for something more like @map version where the bends are less of a tight angle but I didn't want to spend lots of money buying and cutting up parts to figure out a slightly more complete design. A flattened out U shape fitted easily and the parts were easily buyable then. 

The mod design is actually very simple. A 1 foot length of pipe and 2 90 Deg bend silicone hoses plus around half a dozen jubilee clips. The art and skill is the trimming of the silicone hose to fit the shapes/angle/contour of the TB and MAF pipe. 

Edit - plus the longer bolts for the TB. 

Personally I think the risk of hiring it out just to cover the cost of a £200-500 annual service is too great. If you are going to do it you want to get more money and I would be aiming for at least the difference in salvage cost to full market value so probably something in the £3k plus range. 

I've posted parts and price and pics before. 996 plenum was about £35.

I've still got the bits I think in my garage to do this second time around on what was my new to me 550 coming up 10 years ago

Is it the crack at the weld? I'd be a bit surprised that water on hot exhaust caused a crack. I'd be looking more to the mounting and any movement introduced from gearbox or engine mounts. 

If you do a search you should find lots of threads with durametric. There is also the durametric owners post, those volunteering their kit to help others in the locality. 

Personally if you've had nothing done apart from replacing failed items I'd start thinking and budgeting for doing some preventative maintenance. Some will see this as a waste of money but unless you want your fix to be preceded by a trailer then for the hassle it's worth it. There are lots of bits that deteriorate with use over time and you may want to batch some together. Some stuff stops you from going other stuff soldiers on butt really detracts from the use of the car:

Cooling system: rads, water pump, cap, expansion tank, all go in time. This stuff generally isn't given much if any attention at service unless there is an obvious problem.

Brakes: corroded hard lines, bulging flexis, corroded discs. Easy to inspect and checked at MOT. 

Alternator: normally get some sort of heads up it's failing.

Fuel pump: normally just goes.

Suspension: rarely fails leaving you stranded, unless a corroded spring. But will be tired and baggy. Perfectly ok if you pootle around but not so good nearer the limits. Normally still driveable even with knocks and clunks. If you're going to do it I think it's worth going the whole hog or doing all arms/bushes as one phase and springs/dampers the next or vice versa probably slightl cheaper on labour. 

Clutch: normally get some feel that it's going to go. 

26 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

At risk of turning this into yet another IMS thread, one other note on early cars with high mileage and original IMS bearing - @the baron is over 210k miles on his '97 car and had his checked in situ recently when his clutch was done by a well respected indy, Lee at Cotswold Porsche.  No concern on condition.

There is limited checking you can do, you can remove the seal and do a visual check, but it's not typically a remove check and refit type of item. 

For some IMS bearing types the train of though is remove seal, inspect, then remove outer bearing seal. 

Meridien silver has a pink/gold hue to it and Polar silver has a slight blue tint, although I don't think Polar was on the Boxster. 

The lighting is bad but GT silver is a darker hue than Arctic. 

Side repeaters are the same. 

You will need the slats as otherwise you will be left with those 2 ugly holes each side and then you will need the surround as the slats mount to the surround. I'd expect the bumper to come complete. 

I'm not sure it will as I think the black air duct pods may be different and may need swapping in too. A quick check on the parts catalogue would confirm.