edc

1 hour ago, ATM said:

Ok I see, thanks ...  couple of questions if i may ....

So does the alloy piece on the top just pop off - and did you leave them like this with it off when you refitted or put it back on?

Either way this looks doable with them still on the bracket to me, right?

If mine have sagged will this un-sag them?

Also - do I just order any 85 shore PU?

 

 

If yours have sagged I guess it's because the hydraulic fluid has leaked. Where the orange is is normally a metal dome which contains the hydraulic fluid. They fit on the car just as above. 

I didn't do these but still have my originals in the garage. I would drill the dome drain the fluid then Dremel off the dome. You can go harder on the PU but 85 and bottom side only was mostly a hunch. 

Found an old pic here they are 

https://imgur.com/H5EOa1u

Not sure I'd use a PU sealant. From memory mine was a 85 shore hardness. 

If it's a snooker ball type of sound and is worse over cobbles then yes tuning forks is the main culprit. 

23 minutes ago, kdh said:

No suspension work as yet apart from a couple of drop links. Car is on 105k.

Only audible sign is a clanking/rattle from the rear over uneven surfaces.

obviously I’d hate to change dampers if not needed but it’s hard to tell if worn out or not isn’t it?

Are you looking for best handling and ride / perfection or just adequate and working? I'd the latter just leave as is. My current 986 was on 105k 10 years ago and benefitted from new suspension as did my then 65k 12 year old car. 

I've not done the change myself but have driven both back to back. If you are more pottering and more about the daily or around town ride comfort then this is the way forward. 

2 hours ago, ½cwt said:

No number plate covering the deeper scalloping between the upper face and the chin.

The S has the centre grille for the centre rad.  The face lift bumpers would 'plug and play' on an older model car.

Not quite I don't think. On the front the air dams might be different. And on the rear the spoiler is different too. 

You need to know what is the actual difference in the service. If you look at Eporscb website for example there isn't a huge amount of difference in a minor Vs major and if you were a good DIY'er and did low mileage it may make no difference if you had 2 or even 3 minor services in a row. 

My car for example did 125 miles the last year and maybe 300 miles the year before. I still changed the spark plugs but honestly it's completely OTT. 

Has plastic vacuum forming evolved since I was at school to do this sort of work? 

Personally I would not change the arbs now unless knackered. If yours is going to be a full time track car then you'll probably want to uprate the springs and dampers anyway and certainly aspects of the braking. At that point you might look at the arbs for a bit of fine tuning. 

The issue is just like springs and dampers you will struggle to find any actual data to qualify whether a spring is stiffer. And of course you need 2 sets of data to evaluate that. 

https://m.facebook.com/groups/986uk/permalink/1744209199423605/

In car enthusiast land in places like HK they change their gearbox oil annually. 

If you don't know the history of the car well then the most basic check is probably to check if the roof relay is even there. It's above the fuse panel. 

31 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

You have to be a bit canny doing this as the Variocam system has 2 versions on the 3.2 for the 986 and you need the correct control system for the correct engine so they'd need to match you car if you wanted to use the engine as a direct swap.  Also they ain't cheap to buy (£2.5k upwards) or rebuild.

Cheaper maybe if you buy a broken one and but if you do a full rebuild or even an upgrade rebuild the parts alone are going to quote the difference. 

31 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

You have to be a bit canny doing this as the Variocam system has 2 versions on the 3.2 for the 986 and you need the correct control system for the correct engine so they'd need to match you car if you wanted to use the engine as a direct swap.  Also they ain't cheap to buy (£2.5k upwards) or rebuild.

Cheaper maybe if you buy a broken one and but if you do a full rebuild or even an upgrade rebuild the parts alone are going to quote the difference. 

When you change the gear oil a bit like tyres it's never quite an apples to apples comparison. If you e just changed the gear oil then you'd expect new oil to be better than 20+ year-old oil with 10s or 100s of thousand miles on it. 

If the battery dies it can spoil the spoiler operation normally sorts itself after a charged battery and a run which rolling into garage won't do.

Also check the handbrake light switch is working and given the car seems to have had recent issues a basic check if the fuses and relays might be worth while. 

This is a problem when people think a higher spec product is an 'upgrade'. Just like any upgrades it's about matching the spec to the use and application. 

I guess you will do some basic port match/clean up for head and manifold. Watch also for the gasket protruding.

Do none of these things work at all? 

7 minutes ago, 999mch said:

In fact my 22 year old daughter was always told to brake and then move to the gear she wanted e.g. 4th to 2nd when she learnt to drive a couple of years back. Never tried double declutching.

I don't think any regular driving instructor since the 70s is going to teach you any other way. Double declutching just isn't needed in modern, basically since at least the late 70s, synchro gearboxes. 

If you have a knackered syncro then it might help. 

I must admit given the old boy age profile on here I presumed most of you would have been doing it

I was never taught but just tried. But it wasn't until I got my first Boxster that it truly worked as most of my previous cars weren't well set up for it. 

When I was about 12 and back in HK one of my uncles was a builder and he had a Mitsi or Toyota van. Not quite the same but he would always double declutch and often times heel and toe too. 

19 minutes ago, greenman986s said:

I read conflicting comments on heel & toe re letting the clutch out to blip the throttle before re-engaging clutch to move to next gear (which to my mid is double declutching)

Or do you blip the throttle whilst the clutch is disengaged?

 

 

You blip when your foot is down on the clutch. 

It's actually quite intuitive. A lot of especially modern cars have an electronic throttle cut so you can't break and throttle at the same time but Porsche in general don't. The other key aspect is the pedal positioning. Some cars have the pedals so far apart that it's impossible or maybe the accelerator is much higher than the break when the break is depressed.