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Posts posted by Withy
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On 4/29/2022 at 9:25 AM, alank said:
Withy, did you fix your PSE valve ok, or get a replacement valve.
Not yet. I tried the cold weld stuff and it snapped after 3 pushes of the switch. I think I'll order a new actuator though, but I still want to make sure that the actual valve is running smoother - last time it was still a bit sticky, so will continue with the high temp lube. Been away for weekend but will get to it this week I think
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I had a milltek on my 987.1S, it sounded great, but I had nothing to compare it to really as that was my 1st Porsche. I can't recall the Milltek having any noticeable drone at motorway speeds - it was just good all the time. I woulda agree about the cost vs something switchable tho.
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1 hour ago, robporsche said:
Yeah its been a bit of work in progress since December, alot of googling and a mate of a mate lending his spoiler Biggest issue was the how to fix it and had 3 goes of the brackets and nailed it this afternoon. We actually made one that mirrors the lower brake light so and was going to bring a wire up via the mounting bracket, but just couldnt get it looking too great then abandoned the idea
That does look great @robporsche every time I see a ducktail and the placement of the Porsche logo, I think that the latest one I see is the right place
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1 minute ago, alank said:
Second that, i think it looked good before. What happened to fixing holes. Filled /Painted?
the plinth holes which are behind the sticky plate I just trimmed down to flush and filled with silicone to stop the plate "sinking" in. The outer ones where the old plate was fixed to the plinth had a very slight indent in the bumper, but it looks like a stone chip on either side. I might do something with those though
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19 minutes ago, Lonewolfgjp said:
Umm, I think you maybe better with the smaller plinth and plate. Although I didn’t think it looked bad in the first place😎
Just looked up how to sort the bubbles - hair dryer and some pressure and all good. I like the non plinth look - each to their own though @Tony Daniel's also in the non plinth camp and @RBD914 v2 's spyder also has a lovely front end plinth-less!
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11 hours ago, Tony Daniel said:
Wow, that looks so clean compared to mine! - thanks for checking
Yes, I noticed the same thing. Just wonder if the vacuum hose would make it accessible/removable or need some recalibration. As things stand a few good blasts of WD40 silicone has really freed up the offending valve, so will do for another couple of days, and then take a stab at sorting out the broken rod -
So a lot of other threads on 981's/991/997's suggest a few overnight soakings of the valve rotation points with lubricant and manually manoeuvring it until it's freely moving. So I'll try that, and maybe that'll help with the corrosion which has probably caused the issue in the first place. The left side one is really smooth action, not stressing the ball joint at all, so if I can get the movement on the drivers side OK, I might even try this https://www.amazon.co.uk/JB-Weld-37901-ExtremeHeat-Temperature/dp/B01IBOBY74 to re-attach the actuator to the ball joint, as it is a pretty clean break.
This and roof drain worries make me think I need to clear out the garage so I can park the car there!
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Hmm. Had a look. Valve is sticky. First part of movement is ok, when the push rod is extended then it becomes stuck and needs a good amount of force to move it back. I noticed the other day a loud ‘Ping’ which just have been when the spring released and it went back to resting position. So not sure a ball joint or actuator will sort this.. need to get the root cause of the sticking sorted
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1 hour ago, Greenman said:
Can you actually move the valve by hand ( you should be able to), if not then the flap has seized in the exhaust. If you can then it’s a case of trying to change the ball end. im not sure why that would shear like that unless the flap was extremely stiff or seized.
The actuators were available from a few places:
..but I don’t know anywhere that provides the ball end separately.
it you are under warranty they will probably replace the whole exhaust for you (my whole exhaust was replaced last year.)
Out of warranty
the flap does move but it was sticky before I applied high temp wd40 silicone stuff, so I think it’s been stressed for a while and as I was out popping and cracking a bit on Saturday it maybe just gave up the ghost. I will check if it’s moving freely - should get some time tomorrow to take a good look.
@Greenman also interested if your replacement exhaust is louder than previous. I remember you saying at one of the borders meets that you thought that yours was quieter than some others.
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Yes still moves freely by hand so will take a look and see what options I have.
thanks all for the great support!
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1 hour ago, alank said:
cant see your picture, but does this help https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjjhdPNkuj2AhWLse0KHQrHCoQYABAMGgJkZw&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAASJORoVNuZurctb2bEqR3fUs4o4RnUPWI96kbujJ0A4mU3soD7sg&sig=AOD64_1fgQW6HukSl181Uq22-7STF3Y7cg&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjny8zNkuj2AhVJUcAKHbmEAKQQ9aACegQIARBz&adurl=
Yes I think that is perfect! Thanks a lot
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Despite using some high temp lubricant on a sticky actuator, I seem to have suffered a breakage in the mechanism
Anyone know if these parts are available separately, or does it mean significant replacement (although I think it's stuck in loud mode which I'm generally OK with)
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3 hours ago, daz05 said:
If you watch my videos on the subject it should help you.
Drain 1 https://youtu.be/2jFXBv7CG98
Drain 2 https://youtu.be/khmCtOMVgIY
Google the cleaner and you'll get a link from Amazon.
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The short number plate mount you have @daz05, is it this?
i have a 5 digit plate and am keen on doing this, and seems like it fits in line with std spacing at 30.5cm wide
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Cleaned the roof, applied Fabsil Gold. used the trombone cleaner on as per some folks advice and did a test that roof drains are working as expected. All looks OK to me
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I did mine this weekend, after some research I did some cleaning with a white vinegar/water 50/50 mix which I was quite nervous about, but it did a good job of taking away some of the "green" which was proving difficult to move (every time I've used shampoo/autoglym it looks perfect when wet, but then when it dries the green is still visible). The mix this weekend seems to have been pretty good, and because of this thread I got some Fabsil from Amazon and painted it on as per the instructions. Has come up pretty good I'd say - I just wish there was a magic fix for the creases)
before
After
The necessary beading shot..
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5 hours ago, GTSMarky said:
Slightly more BHP and some fairy dust!
Well, its a fair bit more BHP from a 981 to a GTS. Yes only a few over an S, but 265->330 is a fair hike. Really awesome spec on OP's car though, so really depends what the reasoning is for the possible changeover - haven't really heard many complain than a 981 was "too slow", but if it's more poke required, and the $$'s work, then a GTS is a lovely place to be. If @Dermot could get a good price for the 981, something like this would be cool to replace it https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202201171438439
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Some bad reviews on that cheap cover on amazon if it's this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/MP-Essentials-Waterproof-Breathable-Protection/dp/B01MZ21V14/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sumex%2Bcar%2Bcover&qid=1647373651&sr=8-3&th=1 @kharma45 but if @alank has used it for 2 years can't be all that bad and worth a punt. Trombone cleaner coming tomorrow so will check drains then, and then see what's what. Condensation seems to have subsided tbh, maybe weather conditions are all that is to blame (but will check thoroughly)
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Watched @daz05's video on PSE and decided to make sure mine was working as expected as sometimes I don't hear the switch in tone.. but all looks to be fine, and since the actuators squeak, I've ordered some high temp spray lubricant (WD-40 Silicone). Also added a trombone cleaner too so I can do the drains too
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9 hours ago, ATM said:
How do you get the green stuff off the hood?
the last bits of the cleaner in this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005WIF4NI/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_3W1E71PBEKZ14FZ8GD96 with a soft brush. I think I'll get some other cleaner / sealant too - the other post on Fabsil looks good
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31 minutes ago, Andy Mac said:
Hi @Withy I guess you’ve read the other posts. My experience with a 981S was really bad windscreen / and side window condensation (especially on the screen) way more than previous Boxsters.
I also couldn’t feel wet carpets - but one of the rear drain tubes had blocked / dislodged (ones that run down from the either side of the roll hoop).
They can dislodge block / way lower than you can see.
The area under my (dry to touch) carpets was very wet - the control units, even though they are mounted higher in the 981 were swimming. Everything still functioned (weirdly) wasn’t until it was dried out it all failed 😂.
If you can get down to the actual floor under the seat - through the cut out in the carpet etc - have a feel, hopefully it’s not that.
Some experienced damp on the seat belt - felt if you fully unwound them when the rear drains failed.
Think @Stuart21UK had similar.
Yeah, I read all these posts about drain holes as I had exactly this on my 981S, not under warranty, and very expensive to get sorted
I'll check the drain holes thoroughly this week, including @daz05 YT guidance.
Carpets completely dry, but will take others advice and take them up and do all the right things.
Top tip on the Dual Zone climate stuff from @Ringer250 too. every little helps! I do have a full cover, but maybe a 1/2 cover is less cumbersome. Alternatively, maybe this is the trigger to clear out the sh1t-t1p that. is my garage and actually use of for what it's intended for!
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Skye in Macan
in Macan
Posted
Yep, really is a cool place. Also did a RIB tour out on the water which was great