the baron

Well done, I know it’s been a love hate relationship it will be interesting to see how you fair with the 987, always buy the best you can, less problems going forward hopefully 

9 hours ago, ½cwt said:

It is not a job you want to do twice. Go OEM.

I can second Chris on this, OEM is a round £150 with club discount, not worth saving a few pounds if it only lasts a few years or less

I swapped out my expansion tank a few tears back, I did have a second set of hands but it was still a pig of a job but very doable with a little patience.

So if it’s just the drivers door, could you not try and reach the door lock button on the dash with a coat hanger, this might at least unlock the passenger door.

I once locked the keys in a discovery and the locksmith used a blood pressure sleeve which he wedged between the door and door frame, pumped it up about an inch that then enabled him to use a stick to push door release on dash, this method might help you.

8 hours ago, Triops said:

Incidentally my local Porsche independent suggested £3500-5000 to sort. My rusting manifold bolts were mentioned as an issue. Car runs sweetly otherwise.

That’s engine rebuild territory, there another things to investigate first before you write the car off

6 hours ago, CRC said:

I've been on this journey, and despite fixing, patching and checking (by deliberately blocking the drain hole and filling the tray with water to look for leaks), buying a water proof half cover and arranging it so that there was no way that water could even get to the tray, I was still getting water finding it's way behind the passenger seat - but I had no idea how.

I was becoming convinced that the problem lay beneath the tray and not above it, but had no idea what that problem might be.

Then the other day, I was researching this problem  and happened to come across a comment from a forum user who said that he'd pinned the leak down to a failed gasked between the plastic air intake grill and the body - and that it had taken him two years of trying to actually find it (not surprised).

So I took the grill out (one screw and a bit of fiddling to get the clips to disengage) and sure enough there is a gasket glued to the plastic air vent that runs round the outside. In my case, that "foam gasket" was almost non existent, so I made a new one up out of some thin rubber sheet that I had lying around, scraped off the old one and used contact adhesive to glue the new one in place, then replaced the grill.

That was several weeks ago, and although it's been pretty dry, we have had several period of rain since then, and the area behind the passenegers seat has remained bone dry and even the damp vertical carpet is now completely dry ..... even without the cover being on.

Has it solved the problem? Is that gasket  a water proofing gasket or just a sound deadening gasket? How does water get from the vent are to the rear of the passengers seat?

I have no idea ...... but I'm cautiously optimistic for now at lease.

 

Not heard of that before, good call and thanks for posting.👍

16 hours ago, Castaway said:

Thanks Nobbie, will take a look. Did you need to remove this? Or did the new one slip over it?

thanks

No, you can cut the top to the circular part of the drip tray and slide it in so you don’t have to remove the arm, it won’t let water in at that point, I did that on my car and made the process a little less painful

3 hours ago, ½cwt said:

No indication in the 986 parts cat that they were only from a certain date, only S models or anything like that.  Maybe fitted following work in pre-production development to stiffen the front up.

 

@the baron are these strut turret braces fitted on your early car?

I can confirm that my 1997 2.5 has them fitted as standard from factory 

On 3/23/2022 at 3:52 PM, mike597 said:

Sounds like the window regulator has gone. It's a fairly easy job to swap it out about 1.25 hours at an indy. Use a genuine part if you can. Should be some posts on here if you want to DIY. 

This and this and it might be this, and did I mention it’s probably this ^^^^^^

You have an air leak somewhere, you will need to take it to a good Indy to have that checked.

2 minutes ago, rowbos said:

I find this highly offensive to my OCD.  Why didn't you reset the trip counter! 😐

Just for that very reason 🤓

2 minutes ago, Davey P said:

I'm a bit behind you mate:

My pic was taken a few years  ago now so you are even further behind then you think 😂

Couldn’t resist my mic drop moment, and BOOOOM

What he says ^^^

ive got a 996 C4 and it’s got a larger tunnel and the boot space is compromised, it might be doable but never heard even a whisper of such a car, so am sceptical, would love to be proved wrong though

Looks like a top quality product, I’ve passed the link onto a friend who has a 981

Golden car.

I fall into the first category 

1997 2.5

211,000 miles

Duel Row IMS

I have found the OEM vent cup holders to be pretty stable, if you already have these can’t see why you would want one in the armrest which might be awkward, unless you are smallish 

Unless there is someway  of supporting the lid in the open position, I doubt this will work apart from when stationary 

Could be door membrane or indeed a hole in the polystyrene drip tray, or easy fix just the drain holes blocked, leaks are a nightmare to find, might be worth investing in a half cover if car lives outside until you have it sorted

On 2/17/2022 at 10:33 AM, map said:

Buy OE parts there and drink their coffee.

I keep threatening to have the 111 point check done on my 986 - I fear that so many advisories/fails for non-factory specification elements would be too much for their systems to handle.  

Mind you it would be interesting to ask for a quote to "return to factory".....🤔

Your car Is the least “factory” 986 on the forum, that would indeed be interesting 

Great project, love threads like these, keep up the good work

I know it’s a thing on the 996 mufflers, easy hack, not sure about the 986

Change the oil and filter every 5k if you able to do it yourself as it’s not expensive and is the best way to keep the engine working as long as possible.

Early cars had duel row IMS with very little issues, later cars tended to have single row IMS from around 2000 onwards but there is cross over. Earlier cars seem to be the ones that are on the rise from a classic car value point of view and if you look at the website “how many are left” they are getting less and less which is a good thing.

my car is a very early 1997 and has done 211k with no engine or gearbox work

9 hours ago, ½cwt said:

 

Am I happy with my 986, yes but mostly because it was all I could afford to buy and run when I made the purchase.  If I'd have £5k more It might have been a 987 I bought, had I had£15k more I wouldn't have a Porsche, or any other car, I'd have paid a chunk more off the mortgage.... 

If using non man maths you will probably find you have spent close to the £15k you mention for the car and various upgrades, using man maths it’s as you say.