CMA

1 hour ago, Nobbie said:

One useful point is the Sport design steering wheel. That would be a must have with a PDK for me as the paddles made such a difference on my 986. I’m sure the PDK doesn’t need my input, but it’s going to get it anyway.

Something to note, this can be retro fitted, so of you find the perfect car without it you can add it later

17 hours ago, Nobbie said:

I think I’m going to be upgrading to a 981 from my current 2.5 tip 986 which has been a great car, but is getting a bit rusty. I’m interested in people’s opinions on which 981 options are worth looking out for and any common issues to check for.

I did find a similar thread, but that seemed to get derailed into a fight about tyres.

I’ll probably keep the car a long time, so resale isn’t an issue. Hence I’ll probably go for a high miles, more recent car such as a 2015 with 100k rather than a 2012 with 60k. It’s mostly a weekend car so the aim is driving involvement. I like the tip on the 986, but feel I need to go manual on the 981 just to keep a similar level of involvement, although given the preponderance of PDK I won’t rule one out, interested to hear views on the manual gearbox. 

PSE is a must or I’d have to add myself or similar. I enjoy having to wring the neck of the 2.5, so I think I might regret upgrading to a 3.4, although I suspect most 3.4 are better specced, so won’t rule it out and am open to opinions. I love the look of the GTS, but not paying an extra £15k, so may just upgrade the front bumper as per @daz05

Are the standard seats ok? I have the sports seats in the 986 which work well.

I’m aware of the heater fan issue and the unreliable engine mounts, any other things that might be suspect on a higher miles car?

Interested to hear your views.

Rear brake pipes corroding is something to look out for. Also strip the sides unblock and remove the fabric/plastic covers from the drains as soon as possible.

Pull out both seatbelts to the max and check for dampness when viewing, also feel the floor behind each seat to check for any water ingress

I had the 2.7 Manual and now the 3.4 PDK. The manual is the slickest box I've ever used, beautiful change. the PDK though is very impressive and gives plenty of involvement in manual mode, for which the sports design wheel with paddles is a must for me. PDK has 7 gears so has shorter ratios which for me make it a better drive. Do I miss the manual? No. Also Manuals are more rare to find.

The 2.7 is much easier to drive on the red line without being at warp speeds, it has less torque but driving to the redline is great for the aural pleasure. I don't find I do as much in the 3.4, it has the extra torque. Very different but similar engines to drive, I'd recommend trying both.

Both mine have the basic seats, the 2.7 basic isn't leather but a vinyl replica I believe

Sports Chrono is nice for the clock, but the PADM is one of those things, easy to change yourself just expensive to buy. The gear changes in Sports+ + manual mode are impressive. Would I have it again, maybe not but wouldn't put me off either way.

Get something like an iCarsoft POR V2 to scan any prospective cars for errors. More detailed than basic ODB readers.

Manuals you'll need to check for over revs, PDKs cant be over revved.

I'd have liked the heated wheel, especially having one in the Macan now, would be great on frosty morning roof down drives.

Check Air Con works, condensers can get full of cr*p and rot, prob something to do when you do the drains, remove the bumper and have a clearout.

PASM or not. Both mine haven't had PASM so I can't comment on a comparison but the nonPASM works fine for me.

Welcome to have a drive of mine and see for yourself if I end up on a run anytime soon

1 hour ago, mp1 said:

I really hate cleaning the wheels after ever drive

Perhaps cleaning them after every drive is a bit of overkill, leave it several drives or find a decent ceramic coating for the wheels which will make the cleaning easier

Interesting watch, thanks 👍

And the remoaners say there no benefits of Brexit 🤣

2 hours ago, Cocky said:

Added to my watchlist I don't need it but would like one 😂

Get your short arms in your deep pockets, you know you want to....

3 minutes ago, Freeman said:

 

The two contradict.

Gen 2 987 was introduced on 21 February 2009

7 minutes ago, Cocky said:

Chipping in and I know I am in the minority here but I would genuinely just replace them for standard gearbox mounts and code PADM out. 

It's too much of a headache, I remember @Greenman missing out on a summer's worth of antics due to waiting on stock (that's going back a few years). 

I appreciate some on here still have extended warranty so that's not an option. It is something that puts me off a 981 (with chrono). 

Problem is coding it out to remove the error on the dash as that would be an MOT fail these days. Then coding it out you'd presumable have to loose the Sports+ mode on the gearbox changes as they may be too brutal for a normal mount to cope with and all the other bits that Sports+ gives you. No idea if any of that's possible but I looked when mine went and couldn't see any easy options to code out just PADM, things may have changed now though.

5 minutes ago, iborguk said:

Thanks - remember the thread. I thought there had been some sort of revision to the electrical connector at one stage to further weather proof it.

I believe the connector is the standard VW "D" type connector used across the whole VW/Skoda/Seat/Audi/Porsche range for many things. Fairly well proven, although this is in probably a more exposed area than your average VW

4 minutes ago, iborguk said:

No doubt covered many times before , wonder how many of these failures are mechanical vs exposure of the electrical side to the elements ? 

Have you seen my thread when I dismantled mine? Electrical elements aren't exposed they're baked into the unit. My error code was a failure in the pressure sensor, which is well buried in the unit. 
 

27 minutes ago, GTSMarky said:

The Porsche designers/engineers do things for a reason..

To get a steady income stream from regular failures? 😛 

8 minutes ago, JurassicBGTS said:

You can of course keep driving the car until you get a new one,  as they just revert to the hardest setting if they go.

I thought they reverted to the softest setting as it's normally the pressure sensor failing to ground that causes the failure and as such the system wouldn't know how hard to set the mount was if it had failed. From driving mine with a failed one I could also feel that it wasn't set to the firmest settings.

But, yes you can drive with a failed one without issue, unless you need an MOT then it's a MOT failure I believe due to the warning on the dash.

4 minutes ago, iborguk said:

Current part number is 981 375 059 09 at a cost of £1400ish.

 

They've gone up a fair bit then, cost £923ish inc VAT a couple of years ago when I did mine. Also interesting to see 2 further revision since I bought mine

Just ring any OPC parts department and ask them for a price and availability, that should confirm if it is the case or not.

7 hours ago, Tony Daniel said:

Your V2 should work, I think its EPB in the SERVICE module. It just cyclols the handbrake to measure the movement and tells you if its in limits. I didn't check it with the old discs but after fitting the new ones the left side was on the minimum and right was above maximum movement, so then I had to adjust the stupid cog thing on the handbrake adjuster until it came in tolerance.

Just popped the battery on and given it a look on the V2.

Left Wheel pad gap 4.67mm

Right Wheel pad gap 4.92

Then the screen after pops up and says the gap should be between 1.9mm to 2.4mm

So way way way out of tolerance, I cycled the handbrake on and off a few times in the normal fashion and tried reading it again

Left Wheel pad gap 2.93mm

Right Wheel pad gap 3.27

So still out of tolerance but better, at least I have some reference for when I come to change so thanks for the pointers

24 minutes ago, Nobbie said:

Not necessary if you are just removing and re-installing same pads/discs, must if replacing worn out with new is my reading.

Ah yes, that makes sense now.

Just reading the workshop manual and its quite contradictory... these 2 information points are next to each other in the grinding down parking brake instructions....
 

Quote

It is not necessary to grind down the parking-brake shoes when you are removing/installing the brake discs
and/or parking-brake shoes.

Quote

Each time the brake discs and/or parking-brake shoes (grey cast-iron brakes only) are replaced, the electric
parking brake (EPB) must be grinded down after first setting the brake shoes to the basic setting

So which is it, not necessary or must? 

8 hours ago, ATM said:

Ordered some TRW Front discs from Autodoc. I left the rears as they looked fine but I might change them soon anyway. I didn't realise about the hand brake shenanigans. 

These TRW fronts came with black painted centres which look good and I just rate TRW generally

Has anyone changed rear discs without any of the shenanigans? I'm not looking to replace the handbrake shoes, just the discs, I guess the inner face of the bell doesn't wear much, if at all, so could be a straight swap? Different if I was replacing the shoes I guess...

23 hours ago, Tony Daniel said:

To change the rear discs you could with something like a Carsoft V3 to measure the electronic hand brake gap.

I already have the V2, which I guess doesn't help

Looking like I'll need new pads and disks all round before I even think about the track day next year.

Which brands of pads and disks are recommended for fast road and 2 or 3 track days a year? And where to get them from?

And are the rear disks DIY'able with the handbrake as I don't have a PIWIS or know anyone with one?

17 hours ago, Boxer boy said:

4 WD , AWD , 4 s , “ Quattro “ ruins the handling ,steering  involvement .You end up a passenger beholding to electrotwackery nannies   .

How old are you btw ? If you don’t mind me asking .

Those AWD LeMans Hypercars must be a dog to drive.

All modern cars are full of electrowackery, even more so once the battery brigade become the only cars you can buy

2 hours ago, fewtrees said:

I've got 10 days before my insurance expires and I've used the comparison websites to try and find a decent deal.. 

Best time to get the best quote is about 3 weeks (20 to 26 days) before the due date, after that the renewals start to go up, probably due to extra risk being associated with less organised people. Doesn't help you this time around but maybe next year. Few other tips here that may help

https://www.moneysavingexpert.com/insurance/car-insurance/how-to-get-cheap-car-insurance/#costcut

You can buy new headlamps from Porsche, or you can buy replacement lenses from Ebay and have a go at replacing yourself or you can use a company like the one listed in this thread:

17 minutes ago, Menoporsche said:

Interesting, is that the same for their sports cars? Or is it to do with the greater weight of the Macan?

I recall that the Cayenne still used/uses the Tiptronic as the PDK couldn't cope apparently.

While they are all called PDK gearboxes they are physically different gearboxes and designs. In the 981 the PDK fluid change is 12 years or 120k but in the Macan it's every 4 years or 40k 

I think the PDK used to have a torque limit of 500nm due to the hollow shaft design and the cayennes bigger engines would more than likely shred it

1 hour ago, JurassicBGTS said:

https://www.nmautomotive.co.uk/product-page/pcm-4-wireless-carplay-and-android-auto-add-on

This has worked perfectly with great support in event of any unlikelyissues. Some of the Chinese Ebay ones seem to not be as reliable.

 

That states this:
"Auto Add-on for cars ALREADY FITTED with wired CarPlay"

I'm guessing I don't already have carplay on as i see no option for it on my Macan so this wouldn't work for me?

7 minutes ago, JurassicBGTS said:

All good info although to be absolutely correct it is the occasional timing chain cover bolt that is a potential risk not cam cover.

On a Gen1 that should have reared its ugly head by now if it were to happen and isn't that prevalent.

According to my OPC it can also now be done in situ.

 

Correct, timing cover, I was typing too quick. Edited the original. I heard it can be done in situ if the bolts play nicely coming out.

I've had my Gen1 GTS almost 2 years now. Not a single issue to date. I just try not to look at the consumption figures very often