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CMA

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Posts posted by CMA

  1. Are you looking at OPC or dealer or private sales?

    Usual things to look for are Transferbox and Timing cover oil leaks on the Gen1 GTS. The Gen2 still has proper buttons unlike the Gen3 touch cr@p but a bigger screen than the Gen1. Is the Gen2 S the 2.9litre Audi engine rather than the 3.0v6 Porsche engine?

    Pan roof is great, but check for any signs of water leaks inside on the A pillars and in the boot, and regularly check it still drains correctly as it can get expensive if blocked. Check rubber seals around the glass too as they can easily be torn if something like a twig was wedged in there when someone opened it.

    Gen2 has rear camera washer, very handy but is highly prone to leak further up the pipe and fill the boot with water every time you wash the rear screen. Gen1 has no rear washer (or mine doesn't anyway)

    Heated steering wheel is nice if you have the carbon wheel option

    Gen2 changed from 2year/20k servicing to needing an oil change every 1yr/10k and other service items still at 2yr/20k as my mate has just found out. So if OPC purchase then factor that cost in. 

    If going black wheels check for bubbling and corrosion around the centre caps, mine was horrendous but I never noticed it until I got home but luckily the OPC paid for a refurb for me.

    • Thanks 1
  2. 37 minutes ago, JurassicBGTS said:

    Has it had the transfer box replaced as warranty on these is only 7 years or is it under Porsche warranty?

    They only replace them of there's a problem as per usual it's not a recall.  Same if its the Gen1 with the Porsche Engine and the over torqued cam cover bolts that break, only done under warranty and it's an engine out job according to Porsche as the bolts are at the back of the engine.

    Usual horror stories, like IMS and bore score on other models, not all are affected.

  3. 1 hour ago, Graham BGTS said:

    Hi, I’ve seen a Macan GTS that I’m thinking about purchasing but have two questions:

    - it has all the spec I want apart from air suspension. Is this necessary?

    - the RS spyder wheels are silver and I’d prefer black. Is it possible to have these resprayed and any idea of rough cost? 

    All thoughts appreciated.

    Thanks.

    Graham

    I have a 2017 GTS in Carmine Red and have the black 21" Sport Classics with silver/cut lip, I had all 4 refurbed at Porches expense with Exel Wheels for £750 I think. But I wasn't paying and I went for a painted lip rather than diamond cut as they always cause problems. Find a local place to you and give them a call see what they charge.

     

    I also have the PASM (non air) version and have no issues with it at all on any road type, I think I'd only want air if I was towing a caravan or big stuff to get the auto levelling, too much to go wrong otherwise. 

    • Like 1
  4. 9 minutes ago, JurassicBGTS said:

    1. A driver training day at CAT Driver Training
    2. A PCGB tour of Scotland
    3. A Sunday morning drive with other members of PCGB
    4. Displaying my car in a field at PCGB event
    5. Driving my car near my house with a friend who owns a Jaguar F-Type
     
    Of these five scenarios, only the last was covered by my policy. Glad it happens to be up for renewal in the next two weeks!
     

    Number 1 in understandable and expected.

    but the rest, what a crazy situation, so many holes in that.

    How do I know if I'm out for a run with friends that own Porsches or if they are friends with Porsches that have PCGB membership? Would I need to check each ones membership status first before going for a run?

    What if the F-Type owner was also a member of PCGB?

    I imagine if one company has these exceptions other will too. As usual most only find out when they need to claim and the insurance co will find one of these exceptions and call it out.
     

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  5. 11 minutes ago, moospeed said:

    I feel that the sensible money would be on the higher miles dealer car, for the warranty

    Depends on the warranty, if its some cheapo 3rd paty dealer type warranty then it's less valuable, if it's OPC warranty then it has more value. I personally don't value the cheapo ones at all, limits on values, hourly rates and where you can take it to get it fixed all make it more hassle than it is worth. But also as it is a dealer you have the right to reject and other consumer protections rather than you get with a private sale.

  6. 2 minutes ago, daz05 said:

    Wow great job, yes keeping them dry is important, I noted they introduced covers to protect from the elements on the 992 recently. I've attempted to protect mine to try and prevent failure for as long as possible.

    The pics are from my old thread showing my dismantling of my old mount

    The connectors are the standard D connector used VW group wide, pretty weatherproof by default, but no harm in trying to keep anything from them. I personally think they fail from inside.

  7. 4 minutes ago, daz05 said:

    In which case it might work, it looks like it unscrews.

    People shouldn't be afraid to try and repair these, I know it says not to open up the mount itself but you might find it's a bit of corrosion on the electrical socket or further in that's showing up as a short to ground error.

    Looking at my pics it seems like it might be threaded and possible to change out, but I've now thrown away my old one so can't confirm.

    51689658949_889917a019_k.jpg

    It is worth checking the connector for corrosion but there isn't much else to check further up as the connector pins are all moulded into the plastic to the circuit board under the grey cover, someone with more electrical knowledge than me might be able to test those connections onto the electronics board but there's not much else under that cover

    52036454293_922a34a659_k.jpg

     

    You would need access to the other side of this board to test much else, and the only way to get at that is destroy it as the pins from the connector join to it solidly though the plastic. Here you can see the back of that board and where I broke it from the pins int he plastic which got to the wiring connector
    52036404621_072d365e7d_k.jpg

    My main guess for failure is the seal in the pressure sensor (I'm guessing that is what the silver bit with rubber seal on is) leaks and some liquid gets through to the pins or the board and causes a short. And it's not servicable at all.

  8. 9 minutes ago, M12MTR said:

    I'm after manual. Limited numbers.

    Rarity leads to higher prices. Only 2 manual GTS's on Autotrader at the mo, one non OPC at 55k and that one at 62k so both close'ish in price considering an OPC markup

  9. 6 minutes ago, cozzykim said:

    Both fans are in the front wheel arch, just behind the radiators, and they're both jammed solid. Not easy to get the front arch liner out but I've already got one running, so looks like the fuses are okay.

    If you're struggling to get the liner out a poke through the vent with a suitable stick (with ignition off!) might free it up

  10. 2 hours ago, cozzykim said:

    Sorry to quote this so long after the post but, could this be why my aircon only seems to blow cold air when the car is moving? If I'm sitting in the car park waiting for my missus to have her nails done it blows warm air with the aircon on 'Lo' and the ventilation fan running at full blast until we get moving again when it blows caold again. It's as if there's no air flow over the condensers when staionary.

    If so, can I check the fans myself, and how?
    Would a dead fan(s) show up on PIWIS?

    The easiest way to check if both fans are working is have the car running and hit the AC Max buttom, this fires up both fans, you can then put your hand infront of each front wheel near the vent and feel the draught blowing through the rads on each side.

    It is common for these fans to get blocked by small stones, so if one isn't blowing you can remove the wheel arch liner and spin by hand and remove any obvious stones and try the above again to see if they start spinning

    • Thanks 1
  11. 13 minutes ago, 356C said:

    Porsche was the first time they obviously had less grip and lasted longer and as I said I think that’s deliberate given that the tyres are designed for my car specifically. 

    If they were designed for your car specifically that's probably a good 10 year old design and compound/structure technology, maybe older. Tyre technology and rubber compounds has moved on massively in the last 10+ years let alone relating it back to the mid 60s tyres.

     

    14 minutes ago, 356C said:

    My Pirellis were fitted by Porsche just over a year ago and have 5mm left on them. 

    That doesn't mean they were brand new when fitted, they might have been sat on a shelf for 4 years in the sun before fitting. The date code on the side will tell you. Also on the side is the model no, if they are N0 or N1 or N2 rubber compounds as all 3 versions of the same Pirelli tyre are different. Porsche will only fit matched sets so I would imagine you're still on the original N0 model.

  12. 42 minutes ago, ATM said:

    These are Rubbish especially the N0.  A different tyre will completely change your car.

    Yep, that's the same as my findings, the N0 Pirellis are rubbish, even worse if they are over 4 years old. the N1 Pirellis were much improved over the N0 but still not great. The Michelins PS4S are far superior for road driving.

    • Like 1
  13. Same as Daz, I find its the front that understeers first, which I guess is designed in for safety like many cars as understeer is easier to correct than over steer for the masses. The rear for me is always pretty planted unless it's provoked. Perhaps your driving style could be causing the instability? or more likely with the changes of the active transmission mounts they screwed the geometry up, worth getting it checked anyway as the many potholes we suffer can knock it out. Also having old hard Pirellis on the back doesn't help the stability, how old are your rear tyres? And are they N0 or N1 Pirellis? 

    As for reliability, I've had 2 981s, the only failure I had was one active transmission mount go, but these are well known to be a common failure point so I was not surprised. Its the most reliable car model I've owned. 

    • Like 1
  14. 1 hour ago, M4can5 said:

    and it says sports exhaust but shouldn't there be a button in the centre console for them ?

    Yes, it has no button so doesn't have the porsche sports exhaust, easy to check on the rear if you look under and don't see the valves. Looks like it has the sports exhaust tips though, which I think was an option instead of having the oval single standard pipe. 

     

    Edit: It does say sports tailpipe in the ad too

  15. On 6/29/2023 at 8:58 AM, D8EAN said:

    i binned my GTS at 18,000 miles  - had to have new pads and discs all round and the quote was close to 6k thru porsche

    38 minutes ago, Araf said:

    4x the cost of conventional but they last around 120k.

    Perhaps @D8EAN had a fault/damage if they were ceramics then for them all to need replacing at 18k? Or the dealership wanted to rip off someone for replacement steelies

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  16. 1 hour ago, EXY said:

    I know it as, Block Exemption Regulation.

    But as CMA says, you pays your money and sign on the dotted line.

    Yep, block exemption I believe only applies to manufacturers warranty from new. the extended (approved used) warranty isn't a manufacturers warranty but an insurance policy you buy, so is exempt from those rules.

     

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  17. 3 minutes ago, Stuart21UK said:

    is that even legal?

    I'm no lawyer but I would guess it is. Basically it's a customer buying an insurance policy with the stated terms. Same sort of thing as buying car insurance, drive drunk and crash and you're not covered. All in the terms you agree to when purchasing the policy.

  18. 42 minutes ago, dpg123 said:

    But you don't have to. You can still have your warranty and service it at a specialist with Porsche parts.

    You can for the manufacturers warranty (2 years from new on Porsche I think) but not for the extended warranty, which isn't a warranty but an insurance product so can have what ever terms they wish.

    Section 2 point C of the extended warranty terms says:

    A claim will be invalid if "Service, repair or maintenance has previously been performed on the vehicle by you or a third party who is not an authorised Porsche Centre/Porsche Service Centre"

    So you may fit the correct genuine parts but unless it was done by Porsche themselves you risk any claim being refused. You could argue, how will they know another OPC didn't do the work if its something like disks and pads, but not as easy on a service. I imagine if you have a claim on a gearbox they wouldn't check your brakes were fitted by an OPC, but if you had a hub/suspension fault, they might look closer.  All depends on how by the book your OPC is and your appetite to risk.

    https://www.porscheretailgroup.co.uk/binary/getasync/f39049c6-352c-4ac0-be80-049de628ee76/porsche approved warranty terms and conditions.pdf

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