map

1 minute ago, Mark Lane said:

I shall do just that, thanks. 

👍

1 hour ago, Mark Lane said:

Hi map,

Broadly speaking I used this method https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996-turbo-gt2/334093-3-blink-turn-signal-relay-mod.html

I used a different tool to remove the pins from the connector. And I needed to route some wiring behind the dash to allow the dash pod to fit back properly  

i have some pics and videos if you’re interested. 

Cheers

Mark

1 hour ago, Mark Lane said:

This is where I got the kit https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F141685515648

and this is the tool I used https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F303029029528

 

Brilliant - Thank you.

Have saved all of your links as bookmarks. 

Photos/Video would be great too - May be post up a new thread with your links and media in the How To part of the forum so it’s easy for people to find in future:

http://www.BoXa.net/forum/forum/61-how-to/

Will be doing this mod. Thanks again. 

22 minutes ago, Mark Lane said:

Installed the ‘1 touch 3 blinks’ indicator mod. Works very well 

Would be interested in doing this myself. I know there’s an American relay mod that does this - could you post a link to the method you used please?

Thanks map

43 minutes ago, Hewy said:

No. didn't know there was one. This evenings job then. Thanks.

Just spotted that the item you fitted is adjustable.

From memory the front and rear links were different lengths so maybe they moved to adjustable to reduce SKU count or it is in fact an upgraded part. 

@Hewy good work - did you check the sensor on the rear suspension too?

2 hours ago, AlexW said:

Couldn’t help me this time as I need a years experience driving a similar car... 

Apparently I need a years experience driving a similar car so 6 months in a macan doesn’t qualify nor 3 years in an Audi A4 with a 3 litre petrol engine

Surprised to see this - might be worth another word and ask them to go to their underwriters for a specific review/decision.  You may need to push a bit  

They did this for me to get my bizarre cover requirements in place and that direct approach on my behalf worked well. 

17 minutes ago, Sazzy said:

Removed the NS rear wheel to have a look at what the access is like to replace the 02 sensors.

Unfortunately was faced with this -

The brake pad is in two pieces !!! I'm mortified, we've just come back from nearly a 700 mile trip! The pad still has plenty of meat on it though?! I've never seen or heard of anything like this happening before?!!

Not that it is much consolation for you - have had this happen to me once (rears too) and I remember that it's a real shock, especially as I'd been leaning pretty hard on the brakes and not felt anything "different"

33 minutes ago, Davidbf1.com said:

Hi all, looking through this old thread, the general consensus I’ve picked-up seems to be that A-Plan are a decent outfit?

I’m renewing my insurance for the 3rd time on my BGTS, first year was with M***ings, second year with AS F**x.

Very happy with both previous insurers, but renewal with current insurer is up by about £100 - with no motoring convictions, accidents/claims or modifications or change of address etc to justify the increase.

Can’t get through to L**kt*ns who are a PCGB partner, and M***nings to be fair are at least consistent with what they’d quoted last year, but still several hundred ££’s adrift from where I am.

A-Plan have just given me a very palatable quote - that’s before I read here they’ll offer some discount for BoXa.net members - and having discussed level of cover etc on the phone, I’m heading towards renewing with them - even if Fl*x suddenly “lose” the additional £100 proposed renewal, for retaining my business. I value any company that will work hard to offer their most competitive rates from the off, without requiring a lengthy to & fro to get there.

 

Reading this thread, doesn’t look like I have anything to worry about going with A-Plan?

David

Have used them consistently for the last few years - I insure a couple of heavily modified P cars with them and they always manage to find proper cover for sensible money given the context of the modifications/on street parking/full work use including customers in the car (not a Taxi) and higher than average mileages. 

Not had to claim yet but they’ve been very responsive on thevodd occasion where I’ve not been 100% about something. 

On 2/9/2019 at 6:30 PM, edc said:

There will be a Zeinwing up for sale here soon. 

My earlier jubilation may be short lived.......

This site claims to show the relevant data for our model from start to 2014 or thereabouts: 

http://www.emissionsfinder.com/manufacturer/porsche/model/boxster?page=4&ipp=25&#

Via this link the 2002 3.2s is shown as Euro3......

Then if you read this from the AA it suggests that it is unlikely that earlier cars will be compliant simply because of the dates the various Euro# ratings came into force:

https://www.theaa.com/driving-advice/fuels-environment/euro-emissions-standards

What's odd is that my V5C doesn't appear to show a Euro rating at all - there isn't even a blank labelled for it.  The V5C has the CO2 but nothing else - got to wonder where the TFL website is getting its data from.  

At the moment TFL's view suits me - but I cannot help but wonder what will happen if they're wrong and decide to backdate charges against their erroneous data.

Thanks for the prompt - having been focused on our much newer diesels I had always assumed my 986S would be liable for the charge......  It isn't 

1 hour ago, Nickyg63 said:

may i ask roughly how much have you had to spend to rebuild the engine?

Difficult to answer because there are so many variables - a careful look at Hartech and similar will give you a taste for the likely costs.

The reason I'm not just saying mine cost £x is simply because the route I'm taking isn't available to most owners and as such whatever the number is it isn't representative.  The other factor is that much of what's being doing to this motor simply wouldn't feature for the vast majority of rebuild situations.  Additionally this is a Stage1 build with options left open for subsequent development.....

All that said I'll try to provide a sense of what might be involved:

Materials: Probably £1k of non-reusable parts needed to rebuild these engines - items like gasket kits, bearing shells, head and big end bolts and so on and so on.  If you have to replace anything that's damaged then there's the cost of those items on top.  For example replacing a damaged Intermediate Shaft and Housing with the latest version for the M96 motor is around £1k. 

Labour: You're then looking at labour and having been involved with this I can see where the time goes. It's like building two engines on a common crank - it is more involved than a V config engine. 

A broken engine can often be more cheaply resolved by replacing with one from a written-off car - I have been there.......  A refresh of a fundamentally tired engine is a different matter and one that I would argue may be worth doing if you know you're keeping it a good while.

54 minutes ago, edc said:

Well Carillo rods aren't cheap ... 

Very true however Carrillo rods are much better value than a smashed engine casing - this is one of those components that went in to prepare for a possible subsequent development.

36 minutes ago, fat haggis said:

That's a big service your doing in preparation of the April meeting 🦄

Do you think it won't handle the west highland roads without a rebuild 😱😁

Ha Ha - I take my Scottish visits very seriously....

This has been in the planning for a good while so the timing is unrelated to anything other than opportunity.

12 minutes ago, JimC2407 said:

That does look like it will be very much on the interesting side of quick.....what capacity have you taken it out to and will there be updates in a members rides/running reports thread?

Great work!

Thanks.

As there seems to be a bit of interest - this is one of the pistons and the big end of a conrod.

Rods are dowled H beam format (high strength: vertical, lateral and torsional) and for my engine have been specced with bolts to support >8500rpm.

Like the rods the pistons are things of beauty - too lovely to be out of sight which is why I've been such a princess 👸 about photographing them.

Combined weight of new rods and pistons saves about 1.2Kg across the 6 assemblies compared to Original Equipment, which is nice. 

Capacity to be measured but estimated at around 3.7 litres.  There will be a useful uplift in BHP and Torque.

Had a running report but lost interest in updating it a couple of years ago - the car is pretty highly developed but discretely tatty.

1 minute ago, jmdlister said:

I'm curious though - I seem to remember someone telling me that you couldn't do the job by hand anymore, as the valve seats are too hard these days to cope with unleaded fuel. Was I mis-informed?

James

In this instance the donor engine was dismantled and the valves have been removed from the heads and labelled according to their location.  All the working surfaces in the heads and on the valves have been thoroughly cleaned.  

The work you see in the last photo is about finessing the valve/seat interface rather than doing the work from scratch.  Each valve will go back into its "own" location which is where the factory originally installed it and where it had run for many miles in another car.

So it may be that new heads and valves cannot be hand seated but "used" can be.

No doubt someone will have the definitive answer.

38 minutes ago, RBD914 v2 said:

Looking good Matthew!

Thank you - it's going to be a quick thing when it's all buttoned up, fully mapped and run in.

59 minutes ago, Clivescoobydo said:

Great stuff, what caused the rebuild?

Wanting more performance. 

Existing engine is OK and would have stayed in place but for my seemingly boundless need to explore what's possible with a 986 whilst still keeping it "streetable" 🤷‍♂️

When the current engine is dropped out it will probably be prepped for storage.  

That said a few of the "go faster" bits from that motor might be finding their way to the For Sale section on this very forum as they're being superseded with "go fasterer" parts.  

My 986 stash of parts never really seems to reduce 🤦‍♂️

So I finally got to help with the build of my own engine... 👍

Did some of this:

Then some more:

A bit of this...

And also almost all of these:

Brilliantly enjoyable and I now understand why these flat format engines take so long to assemble - at one point it felt like we were building it from the inside out....!

It's not finished and you can bet I'll be there for as much of it as I can.

Try a 335 and then decide?

46 minutes ago, map said:

There's an electrical connection that effectively "earths" (maybe some other electrickery) against the head unit - without "re-earthing" it you'll get the beep you're describing.  A search on here, YouTube or similar should help - remember that the 996 had the same set up.

41 minutes ago, mike597 said:

you need to isolate the connection not earth it.  simple way is to just to put some electical tape or duck tape on the left side of the new headunit.  There's a metal prong that is sprung-loaded that will touch the side of the headunit otherwise.

Appreciate the clarification @mike597 👍

On 11/7/2018 at 3:42 PM, ½cwt said:

Fitted new stereo head unit so now have DAB and Bluetooth streaming.  Boy did the old unit need a hell of a pull to get it out even with the correct Porsche keys, looked like a small bit of adhesive tape may have got in the wrong place.  Once strange thing though, since disconnecting the OEM Becker head unit when I lock the car with the remote the horn toots once with the indicator flash, didn't before the head unit change but I can't understand how there might be a connection...?

Also replaced top CD storage unit on lower console for a plain bin.  Now got decent space for phones, wallet etc.

There's an electrical connection that effectively "earths" (maybe some other electrickery) against the head unit - without "re-earthing" it you'll get the beep you're describing.  A search on here, YouTube or similar should help - remember that the 996 had the same set up.

33 minutes ago, Menoporsche said:

No, no, NO!  The Boxster is mid-engined!  If you wanted rear engined, you should have bought a 911!

My bad ? - be assured that it's unlikely to happen again.

1 hour ago, Patt said:

Oh, and that looks re-lined too ?

No the boot liner is original - I vacuumed it last year which is why it looks like new............ ?

Discovered you can get the entire crankcase casting (1 half in each boot) in a Boxster - bet you can't do that with a Z4......  M or otherwise ?‍♂️

Following a recommendation on this forum I got hold of one of these  >> Amazon Link << - it's a Trombone Brush and works really well.  

Having dodged a bullet with blocked drains early last year I use it during the Autumn/Winter to make sure they're clear - it's a zero fuss job with this.

Took it to Spa - it rained.  

Car got "out of shape" in most of the corners over the course of the day.  

Asked for some advice: altered my damper settings and tried some different lines.  

Much better but the exit from Eau Rouge heading up the hill was still horrible - like 40mph slower than dry horrible.

The whole circuit had to be "driven on your finger tips" to quote one of the other guys on the trip.

A 996 GT3 left the circuit at Eau Rouge, properly wacking three corners of the car before coming to a stop ? - as far as I know the driver wasn't physically harmed, the car on the other hand was a very sorry sight.

Short iPhone clip - just to prove I was there and that it really was wet: