map

23 hours ago, daz05 said:

I find the PS4S ride a bit better than the P zeros they are definitely softer.

Does this mean you are saying that the PS4S gives you a better ride than the PZero because the PS4S is “softer” than the Pirelli?

If so I’m not sure this is necessarily the case.  Stiffer tyre sidewalls allow the suspension to work properly.  It maybe that the PS4S is not the “softer” tyre in this sense. 

1 hour ago, Bluepork03 said:

Had mine in to CPS today for a full service, MOT and 4 wheel alignment following the B6 struts being replaced a couple of weeks ago. Excellent service once again from @CotswoldPS and the car is feeling as good as I was hoping it would.

👏

38 minutes ago, Bluepork03 said:

Swapped the rear struts out for B6s. Took longer than the fronts as expected,  but less grief from the top nuts.

Now needs a proper alignment. 

👏

9 hours ago, Bluepork03 said:

Changed the front struts (assumed original) for Bilstein B6s. Will have a go at the rears tomorrow.

Good work Sir!

18 hours ago, Minirock said:

Easy to install.

only issue is the driver side Window is  small gap and giving alot of road noise? Any way to adjust?

Not sure if you’re asking about adjusting the window - if you are I wouldn’t because you’ll get the reverse of the problem when you use the soft top again. 

What I’d look at is moving the hardtop window seal away from the hardtop a little further towards the window edge and seeing if that closes closes the gap. 

8 minutes ago, Minirock said:

Tried on my new roof

Haven’t seen one of those in a good while. Think they were produced by a company in the West Country. 

How was it to install?

What’s it like when you’re driving?

Imagine the windows behind your shoulder give some useful visibility. 

BTW - I think the 986 looks better with the wheels’ outer edges closer the the arch.

@Christopher2110 - 👍

Whilst I cannot comprehend the mathematics but “get” the effect I understand that spacers do affect the Scrub Radius for a given suspension design - excess spacing will seriously c*ck it up. 

As I understand it spacers under acceleration/braking loads will essentially alter toe in/toe out - depending on suspension design. 

**If I’ve got this explanation materially wrong please do correct it**

Given toe settings will change the way a car handles the perceived benefit of spacers is possibly equally deliverable with a geo configured accordingly. 

As toe settings are measured in very, very, very little bits of something or other I can imagine a 10mm spacer (for example) could have a dramatic effect on perceived handling. 

For the record I run 5mm spacers all round for track wheel clearance reasons and my geometry has been dialled in accordingly. 

Lockdown has slowed the move from Winter to Rest of Year Config.

After removing the RTS and skis then the hardtop at the start of Lockdown the only thing left to swap was my knob:

Winter:

Rest of Year:

This doesn’t turn into a “Trial by Ordeal” when the sun’s been on it for a while. 

That and the nod to the 917 makes it a worthwhile tweak. 

26 minutes ago, the baron said:

Thats probably because yours.if you added up how much you have spent on your 986  would be in excess of £29k 😂

Man maths aside.

Er if we take £29,000 and divide that across the number of years I’ve been the custodian of my 986 I think we’ll find I’m there or thereabouts at the £2k per annum suggested by this very forum as a reasonable budget to run a 986. 

So my ownership approach must represent a near optimal model....

🤔

20 minutes ago, Mr96er said:

.......I’d not be tempted myself as for half the money you could build twice the car. But that’s if your not after something “original”, rather something “purposeful” 😈

This 👆 100%

👏

Yes they’re plenty of money compared to an average 986 - I for one am glad they did them - not because I’m a buyer but because it raises the profile of the 986. 

I like the fact they didn’t slavishly go for an as factory resto, the paint is - to my eye - a great colour on that shape. 

A 986 donor with a short block rebuild and all the other stuff they’ve done would see you above £20k pretty quickly. 

Would I swap mine for one of these? No but I can see why someone would purchase something like this. 

Who knows - owning one might get you on the list for something very interesting in the coming years......

Might be missing something in terms of adjustable arms and a 986 but here goes......

Standard car - Yes

OE/OEM components - Yes

Aligns to factory tolerances - No 

The answer to this conundrum may not be adjustable parts but could be revealed in the answer to another question. 

That question might be: “Why won’t this bolt up and align to standard?”

Please just ask and critically answer that question before adding adjustable bits and pieces.

Blew out some cobwebs and used the Boxster to go and look at one of the things I’ll be driving in due course - part of work project I’m developing  

Case Tractor QuadTrac - it’s quite big. 

The 986 pottered along quite nicely - the engine’s freeing up, is now very responsive with some useful punch.

Also updated my mental list of Tweaks To Do:

10 hours ago, V6reu said:

Do you need Porsche diag to program them not to lock ? 

Porsche Workshop diag tool or Durametic - there’s a map for forum members with a Durametric who are able to help folk needing to recode/enable/diagnose.

Have a search for that thread and see if there’s anyone near you - think it may even be a “sticky”.

Took the hardtop off. 

A little bit like having a “new” car. 

11 minutes ago, the baron said:

Probably best not to wash the old girl as you will discover all sorts of nasties that you've not seen before, first time wash in 3yrs, your car is all about the hidden gems, in the engine and gearbox etc.😂🤣😂🤣

🤣🤣🤣

Too late it’s been “sorta washed” and you’re right there’s all sorts lurking beneath several protective strata of road grime. 

Seriously reckon the only panels that are OK (at best) are the boot lid and clamshell.  Every other bit of bodywork carries the wear marks of something that gets used - a lot. 

But having used it to go and do isolation care with my vulnerable Father-in-Law earlier today I was reminded - forcibly - about the “hidden gems”.

Such wonderful cars. 

12 minutes ago, Boxob said:

Akin to Samson having a haircut! 

🤣🤣🤣

Indeed - would have been a really bad haircut too with bits missed and all sorts of shoddiness....

I sort of washed it. 

30 minutes ago, edc said:

It will be interesting to see if it makes a real difference to power. 

Indeed - not really sure how to quantitively measure any impact.  

Pretty certain that on a dyno it will impede things as instinctively the OE opening is better for the relatively still air in a cell.  Once the car's moving I would hope it's more effective pulling in air than the "lip" on the leading edge of the OE opening.

If anyone's got access to a wind tunnel with a dyno sat in the middle of it or the ability to run some Fluid Dynamics wizardry over the setup I'd be happy to see what difference it makes - if any.

Decided to trial fit “Joe Toth” air scoop to engine intake side duct. 

It’s been in my stash for over a year so thought I’d see how it fits and looks.

Confirmed that it’ll be sprayed body colour on the outside and possibly on the inner face too. 

The door mirror sticks out more than this and once it’s body colour it’ll be less obvious. 

May well install using Dzus fasteners so that I can choose when I run the car with it attached. 

Ultimately this will feed a tweaked intake system so the idea is that it pulls more air into that from the flow along the side of the car. 

May be nonsense in performance terms and almost certainly polarising in regards to opinions. 

Car hasn’t been washed in a while - probably get done late Autumn. 

7 hours ago, ½cwt said:

 Unfortunately I don't have a spare console so it is a one time decision.

Have an interior trim bundle available which would allow you to colour code your console, vents and some elements of the door trim:

@Skidd is closer than me and made the offer I would have.

Good. Work. Sir!

@ATM where are you based?

26 minutes ago, Gutley said:

Correct. You have to decide whether to have roof up or down before putting the RTS on. But you can drive with roof down with it on. But apparently that is noisy as hell!

Had the hardtop on before fitting the RTS.

Can imagine it'll be much noisier roof down/RTS on but then roof down is hardly blissful silence - am determined to use the RTS in all three configs - Hardtop On/Soft top up/Soft top down.

Hardtop on and there's some additional noise but it is far from intrusive - at least I don't turn the CarPlay up and I can still hear my exhaust....

Will try to raise/lower the soft top with the RTS in place as I mentioned before - just want to know if/how it might be possible.

Have also installed the Bird Automotive gear rack that mounts clear of the rear bumper - reckon with both the RTS and Bird racks in use I can carry enough toys to include biking, skiing, kayaking and surfing without a "Return to Base" being needed..... 🤔

22 minutes ago, Gutley said:

Do you leave the RTS fixings in-place when not using it or remove them each time?

Have only just fitted it - had the RTS in my stash for more than 10 years though.... 

Am minded to leave the brackets in place and see how they fair in terms of thread corrosion and the like - if they stay in place for the long term I'll get some thread protecting grub screws for the brackets.