map
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Posts posted by map
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1 hour ago, the baron said:
@mapyou know I’m in awe of your car and love the “Outlawness” of it.
Great summarised update.
if you don’t like the Fuch I might be tempted to buy them from you and paint them black and silver as they should be, have been looking for a while to find the right ones.
Keep up the good work.
Thank you - I remember our discussions about it. It should be a little less standard as I’m working through some mods to the seating and some other interior bits. I would like to sit lower in the car and want proper harnesses fitted - probably Schroth who have a specific design for the Cayman which should fit well.
If the wheels don’t look right to me I’ll let you know.
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2 hours ago, Andy Mac said:
Great read @map - I’d missed it was a 3.7 previously. Bet that feels good with the KWs in combo with the shifter etc.
Thank you.
It all works together really well. It’s probably too focused for most folk - which is also to say the factory got it absolutely right for all but the few Outliers like me.
Suspension works well following a refresh of bushes and geo. TBH I’d let it get away from me because of lack of use.
The coilovers are KW Motorsport custom built (damping rates) for this car albeit it is too much for the Dales and Strines runs. Less torturous surfaces are fine and I can put the car across the Eau Rouge kerbs at 100mph and the chassis remains nicely balanced. They’ll need a rebuild next year and we’re aiming to move the dampers’ centre point a few clicks softer.
3.7 has lightly re-profiled cams for more urgency. The crank assembly (pistons, rods, bolts, crank and flywheel) is 8.6kg lighter than stock. It revs really nicely but the fuelling on the interim map holds it back so it’ll be a crackingly characterful motor once it’s finished. The rod bolts are rated to 9k+ rpm - we opted for the headroom in case I get bored and push the button on a Stage3 upgrade - this thing will never be finished. The IMSB is the last version so it’s the factory Big Bearing setup.
There are a load of other detail alterations which homogenise the changes making sure the car stays comfortably on the street useable side of track focused.
It is just great fun - especially when it’s being wrung out to 7k rpm.....
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So 14 years ago on this date I became the keeper of my first Porsche and that's prompted me to look back at some of the stages it's been through.....
It started pretty much like this - but for the hardtop and Zeinwing. Mods started pretty soon after I got it.
Great car and huge fun - still think that, it's only now that the looks are growing on me.
First exhaust upgrade:
Full Cargraphic system with 200 cell cats - sounded great - still would if it was fitted to my car.
Numerous road trips in it - Euro Tunnel on the way out:
Northern Italy the morning after an evening run from Calais - stopping only for fuel - I could hear these bugs hitting the car and screen even at press on speeds
Pre-lockdown it got used a lot - typically 12k+ miles a year....
It's also been tweaked a bit - and that's probably got a little out of hand....
And that little lot, which is the first stage in the engine silliness gives me this with an interim map....
There's more to come with significant changes to both induction and mapping.
Other "updates" include the steering wheel being covered in Alcantara (suede next time) and the CAE shifter - both are ace upgrades.
Got a bit of a wheel problem which worsened recently with these being added to the stash:
They'll either look epic or they won't - white could work really well against silver. If it doesn't then I'll move them on.
It has been a used a lot - commuting, road trips, pottering, trackdays, aside from space in terms of seating and carrying capacity there's been next to no compromise in how I use it. Winters for when it's cold and you're set for year round use....
Some of my favourite in use photos:
These are great cars......
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A 40mm spring* drop is the most significant I've heard of on a 986. Remember that this is the static drop so the chassis and suspension arms will move as the suspension compresses/responds to bumps.
In addition to all the sound advice above - and based on personal experience of very tired 30mm drop springs - I would urge caution.
At that degree of drop it is very likely that the car's geometry is all over the place. With sufficient compression the rear wheels will toe out - you won't need much if any compression to push the geometry that far with a baked in 40mm drop and I wouldn't mind betting that this is pushing the components to contact and the noises you're hearing are the result.
If the others' suggestions above don't address the problem I'd recommend fitting factory springs (secondhand would be OK - I know where a usable set might be found) and seeing if that fixes the symptoms you're describing.
*ignoring air suspension
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15 minutes ago, villaman said:
Cheers guys...im struggling to make an informed decision to be honest.
An informed decision would be a fully analogue 986 with proper coilovers tuned for your specific requirements.
And maybe a bigger motor.
But failing that 🤣
The other option, IMHO, is to look at Öhlins Road & Track coilovers for your car. Probably similar money at the end of it all and way, way more sophisticated damping.
A friend is running Öhlins R&T on his 997 and raves about their compliance, control and general loveliness.
Have a look at them and maybe give Chris and CG a call for some solid real world advice.
BTW my mate’s 997 isn’t as quick cross country as my 986. Just sayin’
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Wanted to change the fuel in the tank so ran it down a bit.
Just paid for 61 Litres of Esso Premium+ 99 Ron Ethanol free petrol - think I could've got more in as the nozzle didn't quick click.
The tank capacity is officially 64 Litres.... so whilst I got my wish of minimising "old" fuel I was probably very, very close to running dry. Oh well.
Want to make sure the fuel system is flushed through with and kept on this Esso formulation in preparation for the next set of upgrades (intake and remap). The current map is tweaked towards higher octane fuels so we want a fair dyno benchmark ahead of the next tranche of work.
Link to Esso blurb: https://www.esso.co.uk/en-gb/fuels/petrol
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8 hours ago, phazed said:
Are you saying that the £199 Oil pan baffle kit for deep sump or X51 for 996 / 997 will fit my 08 Boxster S?
Nope... but nor am I saying it won’t...
10 hours ago, map said:These are links to illustrate the differences - they aren't links to items that will necessarily fit your car. You'll need to validate that yourself.
....all I was trying to do was provide a bit of visual information around this....
11 hours ago, phazed said:Great replies.....thanks.
Are we talking about something like this?
My advice would be to ask your OPC/Indie or a retailer like type911 what the Factory options are for your particular engine.
At least now you know you’re after a factory deep sump kit for your car which will help with finding the specific parts. What we do know is that this needn’t be an expensive upgrade.
It may be that someone on the forum has knowledge/experience for a 2008 car and will chime in - I’m afraid that’s a bit too modern for me 🤣
Will be interested to know what you learn. Even if you decide against it you will help deepen the knowledge on the forum - if you post your findings - which may well help others with the same engine in the future.
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These are links to illustrate the differences - they aren't links to items that will necessarily fit your car. You'll need to validate that yourself.
So....
Factory baffle kit: https://www.design911shop.com/Oil-Pan-Baffle-Kit-for-996---997-X51/prod133356/?source=doofinder
Xtra capacity sump and baffle: as you linked to.
Deep sump with other neat stuff: https://lnengineering.com/2qt-deep-sump-oil-pan-kit-inc-pickup-tube-extension-windage-tray-x51-baffle.html This is the one I have installed. LNE make some interesting claims for it.
Personally I think it's understandable to be concerned based on what we're reading - that said I've seen enough factory 98x cars being driven hard for track lap after track lap - whether Bedford, Brands, Donnington, Rockingham, Snetterton or Spa and others without suffering oil surge based failures or damage. Not saying it doesn't happen but think the risks are in reality relatively small but still of course a matter of an individual's attitude to risk.
If it is a bother then fair enough and for the sake of circa £200 plus a bit of extra labour during an oil change I'd fit the Porsche baffled sump.
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14 minutes ago, jonogt6 said:
I removed them from the car with instructions found online then sanded back smooth. Followed by a few coats of silver.... Renault if I remember correctly, £2 from the bargain bin at Halfords 😁 which seems to match the other silver trim pieces in the cabin perfectly.I'm certain any untoned bright silver will do the job though. The decals were sourced from ebay(link below) and applied to the silver before a few coats of gloss lacquer. Then finally t-cut and waxed to bring out the shine.
That’s great. Thank you for making the time to share this information. Much appreciated.
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5 hours ago, JonSta said:
manual tells you not to track the car on slicks because of oil surge
Most tracks won't allow you to run slicks unless you have a proper roll cage, harnesses and a helmet. Risk of a roll is greater on slicks than road tyres.
7 minutes ago, Tony Daniel said:tight left hand hair pin at Rockingham, the car coughed, cloud of smoke out the back and oil light came on momentarily
Had this in the Boxster (986) at Bedford whilst enjoying a quick potter with a VX220 - really did think something terrible had happened but no it was all fine.
1 hour ago, phazed said:I guess the long right hander at Snetterton could be troublesome.
98x cars suffer on left-handers - at least that's my understanding. Have run at Snetterton in my tweaked 986 that didn't have the sump upgrades it now benefits from and never had a problem.
1 hour ago, phazed said:Interested to know about baffled or improved sumps.....
Essentially three options - upgraded baffles to standard factory (aftermarket or Porsche items), increased capacity sump with baffles or deep sump with baffles, windage tray and upgraded pickups. I have the last of the three - it's pricey but in the context of the engine work that's been undertaken it seems like a sensible option. You can run any one of these options - the first is probably the best place to start for a road car that sees the occasional trackday.
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1 hour ago, jonogt6 said:
Repainted my boot levers from black to silver. No proper before piccys but they were very scratched and damaged. Look pretty good now 😀
Very good - can you share some info please?
What was the process you followed - high level?
What paint colour/code did you source to use on the levers?
How did you get the right graphics on the levers?
Be really great to know - asking for a friend - yes really.
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Aimed some harsh words at it.
The AOS failed.
Drat.
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47 minutes ago, Patt said:
Do you really want main beam on in the mist?
Would have thought dipped beam more practical.
Good point - my description could have been better.
Where mist/fog is dense enough to warrant dipped/fog then that's what you'd use - you're spot on.
What occurs around here is far more localised, often just hanging on the road for a few meters before clearing again. I want to see if these yellow main beam lamps are easier to use in those conditions so that I don't have to go to dipped. To be clear I'm talking about roads that see little or no night-time use so you spend more time on main beam than you would otherwise.
At the end of the day it's cost me £20 or thereabouts to try it - if they work well then great, if they don't then they're going into the front fog positions.
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Minor tweak to try yellow main beam lamps.
Know they don’t have the raw power of white but they are supposed to be better for misty/foggy conditions. Am now based on the doorstep of the Yorkshire Wolds which means plenty of misty patches on the ace roads. So thought I’d give them a try.
Comparing the Osram Nightshaggers that I’d previously fitted with the PIAA 2500k items that are replacing them:
Unless you get right up to the headlight you can’t see them:
In daylight the main beam is clearly yellow. Will see how people react in day to day use.
Not got out in the dark as yet - but will do so and share that experience.
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13 minutes ago, Crazymind said:
Just bought this. Don’t know why but very cool 😎
You got it because it's there. Often the most compelling logic available.
Nice purchase....!
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4 hours ago, bally4563 said:
I’ve found these last time I bought some , worth checking?
Thanks - however these look to be for the inferior 9x7 cars 😆........
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11 minutes ago, edc said:
The washers only work with the headlights on. I think also they don't work every pull too?
Washers activate when headlights are on and you push the washer stalk forward. They run until you release the stalk - just like screen wash.
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1 hour ago, Patt said:
I'd bet a packet of Jaffas, if you removed and put the covers in - it would pass an MOT.
Most testers are of the mind set - if fitted must work. I've had many cars pass the test with aftermarket HID fitted over the years.
Inclined to agree with you on this. Will wait to see what the fix to maintain function is and go from there.
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2 hours ago, Halfordwill said:
Are they HID or Led? I believe it’s only these that require the washers to be working.
In my case they're Litronic - Porsche for Xenon. If factory fitted - as mine are - then you need the washer jets. If dealer fit then the washers weren't required.
If washer jets are installed they must work.
So essentially I either get them working as designed or remove them altogether.
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37 minutes ago, ½cwt said:
The BMW bits are jet replacements I believe, the problem with the 986 washers is that the plastic that holds the jets in place cracks and fails over time. AFAIK, only totally effective solution is £150 each from OPC....
Ah - will take a look at the socket the missing jets were in and compare them to their neighbour. Once I can see what's going on I can make a call on the solution.
If it's going to cost me £300 for new washer jet assemblies I can put that towards an alternative setup that is likely to be far superior in performance to the Litronics.
Some research to be done....
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5 minutes ago, Tony Daniel said:
Their a bit of a pain those washers, I know they are required for the MOT to be working if fitted but I'm sure if you removed and plugged the holes you would get away without them. Think of the weight saving!
An interesting idea - thank you.
Am slightly torn on this - remove altogether and fit blanking corner pieces or source a pair of replacements (2 of the 4 are still in situ). Remembered that someone on this forum had ID'd a BMW part that would substitute - @K.I.T.T. has suggested they are BMW 3 series/E46 items - will do a bit of digging.
My plan for a better lighting rig may see me jettison the Litrnonics for something more modern.....
9 minutes ago, Tony Daniel said:Have you ever thought of an Aerokit for your car Matt. My first 2.5 986 had the MK1 aerokit and I must say it always felt beautifully stuck to the road at speed. Front bumper was similar but not the same as early GT3's (Loz fitted one to a 986), rear boot lid was fibreglass with a large fixed spoiler. The boot lid itself was longer and deleted the tea tray spoiler so again less weight
Good call - I really like the extended bootlid/spoiler setup and if I pull the trigger it will have to be a Factory part.
To be candid I am not so sure about deeper front spoilers on the 986 generally. Sometimes they look ace and then I see one on another car and I'm not so sure. That said I like the one Loz had installed and his car is silver too. Maybe it depends on the wheels and how they fill the space the deeper front bumper creates. Off to Google some images.....
In terms of weight reduction, a change in seats will shed a fair few KGs but the combination of so much extra raw grunt and vastly improved chassis control that I don't feel the need for more performance.
At the moment 🤔
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1 hour ago, the baron said:
You’ve cleaned it!!!!
Yes. I know it was an odd feeling - mrs_map wondered if I’d changed my meds without letting her know....
In all seriousness whilst I’ve got to get the next stage of engine development implemented I’ve been looking at sorting a few other tweaks and I wanted to see what state the paint work was in beneath its protective organic layer.
In terms of Next Step Tweaks these are specifically: Interior, audio/carplay and lighting.
Have always liked the Endurance Racing light rigs and it gets a bit murky up here (Yorkshire Wolds) so....
.....have some Yellow main beam bulbs on their way and will probably mount up some yellow halogen auxiliary lamps too.
Got some ideas around CarPlay and because I’ve got the door card off to sort a leak I’m going to start by installing aftermarket drivers in those.
Interior will include aftermarket seats to get me lower in the car and to be able to safely fit harnesses for track work. Really like the work @Saxosim has done in terms of the seats he’s fitted to his car and his research has helped me work out how to achieve my own goals for the driving position.
So why now? Well we moved to this part of the world in December 2019 and the roads up here have rekindled my enjoyment of this car. Simple.
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Exhaust tuning.
in 987
Posted
Give Turbo Thomas a call - find him via: http://www.ttexhausts.com explain what you're after and he may be able to help.
On both cars I get crackle/burble on over-run once the systems are hot - neither car has been tuned for exhaust histrionics (aside from the Boxster being too loud - which wasn't what was ordered) so I suspect it's a function of tailpipe diameter or shape.