map

Washed it.

Two bucket method.

Used one bucket of foamy water and then another. Then rinsed it off with a watering can. 

Job done. 

Also addressed the green stuff that had got hold of the roof - Milton tablet in water (as recommended on here) and clean the whole roof. Worked really well. 

Then I went out for a roof down drive - to put some grime on it again.

Very little traffic which meant plenty of space to enjoy it.

After all this time I’ve been it’s keeper I  still get a proper kick out of it.

The only downside was finding that a couple of the headlamp washer nozzles had gone AWOL. Drat 😕

20 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

.....the grilles I had already painted titanium and backed with black mesh.....

Can you share a photo of these installed in the repainted PU please?

🙃

58 minutes ago, Crazymind said:

Doesn’t look very neat and it seems not exactly well executed.  Or is it just the photo/angle?

WTAF?

Given this 👇 is the side you'll see that looks pretty good to me.

Installed a CTEK thingy to make it easy to maintain the battery during COVID Winter:

Went for one of these - it has enough power to handle the Range Rover Sport's big Ah battery:

Purchased the Indicator connector and installed like this:

Cut a small slot into the cover to get to this:

Yes it's grubby - if it bothers you enough to comment be bothered enough to come over and clean the whole car....😉

When the froot lid is down the indicator/connector sits here:

Which keeps it visible, accessible and out of the way.

It all works well - the indicator needs 30 min or so without any load on the battery to show the level of charge.  It'll go from Green to Amber as you unlock the car, then Amber to Red as you turn the ignition on/start the car.  Once the engine is running the indicator goes back to Green.

Fitted one of these to the Evoque and another is going on the Range Rover Sport - this set up makes battery charging/maintenance so, so easy.

@Sazzy - just to let you know that this guide was a massive help for a friend who was working through hood alignment problems.  They’re fixed now  

Thank you. 

22 minutes ago, Tricky54 said:

Thanks for all the advice and information. I've ordered one from my local OPC using my PCGB discount - £31.63 + VAT for the front link so just awaiting delivery.

Hi - the item code I quoted was for the latest metal strut (in response to Hewey's post - which has somehow been attributed to someone else....weird) having been back to your post to check and was reminded that it is a plastic bracket/part you are after.  

Hopefully in trying to assist I haven't sent you along the wrong path - apologies.

Cheers 

map

9 minutes ago, Menoporsche said:

Order from OPC and it was a superseed part far superior to the orginal

Latest part number for the rear suspension ride height link (or Strut in Porsche-speak) is: 996 331 375 02  

OPC cost is circa £35+VAT and may be on back order.

Factory Litronics “fail safe” in as much as they default to aim down to avoid dazzling other road users.

When you drive in the dark the difference between working and non-operational self levelling is self evident. 

Without both ride height sensors (986) working as they should you get very little illuminated distance - a matter of close to single digit meters in my experience. 

When factory Litronics are working you will see them lift and adjust when they’re switched on.  If you use main beam then as well as the halogen bulbs lighting up you see the headlight pattern lift too.

If you want to see this the best way is to park about 5m away from a wall - in the dark - and then switch on the front lights cycling from side - dipped - main.  The self levelling and main beam activations can be clearly seen.

If you have a Durametric or OPC diagnostics you can drive the individual Litronic units through a motor test cycle.

It was possible to dealer fit Litronics but these did not have the washers and self levelling kit.  

That said some forum members have carried out a full retrofit of the complete Litronic system. 

The plastic link may be broken because the alloy connecting link has seized. 

Worth checking - if it has seized you’ll need another one of those too plus I’d recommend the relevant nuts. 

11 minutes ago, iborguk said:

This company in Poland says it has one (used).

https://teile.com/en/porsche-parts-shop/model-Boxster-986/5/Body-parts/811-Sunroof-Targa-and-Convertible-top-hardtop/52/811-05-Convertible-top/Roof-transport-system-base-support/15470

 

And I think this one is incomplete as it lacks the mounting kit - maybe an OPC could source the body mounting system.

..double post..

I have one....

..and love the fact it exists at all - so this one isn't for sale.

In terms of usability - initial fit is straightforward but worth taking your time over.

It mounts in four places as you can tell from the photo above.  If you're using it periodically (other than for an annual skiing trip or the like) then do what I do and leave the screen pillar mounts in place.  Occasionally there's some noise from these but I don't find it intrusive.

When you want to use it then whilst I can refit it on my own it would be quicker to share the work with someone.  

Off the top of my head I reckon in total 20mins two up to install the B point mounts (2 bolts each side behind the doors) and then fit the ready assembled frame (two bolts each side of the car).

I left the rack on all last Winter (with the hardtop as you can see) and whilst there was more wind noise it wasn't intrusive - the more edges and gaps you create on the rack (skis/bikes/trees/domestic partners) the more noise it generates.  There's a load rating for the rack and I think there's an advisory in terms of speed too - can look them up if you think those might be constraints for you.

Remember that with it in place you cannot raise or lower the roof.  If there's one drawback I think it's this - I solved that by fitting the hardtop....

9 minutes ago, iborguk said:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/c/1115734901

Sadly this is for a 996/997 coupe so not suitable for a 986 Boxster.

Engine looks good - is it a stock rebuild?

If not what have you been able to do to maximise performance? Am thinking of porting, polishing and possibly lighter parts.....

Also interested to know If the series regs stipulate an OE flywheel rather than allowing a lighter version?

A 986 in circuit trim can give all but the very fastest aircooled cars a bit of a wake up call on track 👍

Watching with interest. 

It passed the MOT.

Minor Defect: Need to replace a number plate lamp.  As long as one is working it's a pass but the failed unit will be replaced in the next day or so.

Advisories: Some possible corrosion spotted on the hard brake lines in a couple of places - the tester was v thorough and highlighted it saying that it was very, very minor.  Will get all the underbody brake lines replaced in time for Spring 21.

The tester said the car was very solid and in fine fettle - "it just needs a wash....."  Given it's covered 145K+ miles I'm pleased with the pass and feedback.

1 hour ago, Freeman said:

For me the cost is not the all important thing, I want to have an agreed value so can buy another if have an accident. Compare the market etc. companies will pay you market value which is several thousands less compare to what you will have to pay for a replacement.  

Solid logic however it doesn’t fit every need - Agreed Value typically restricts mileage - fine if it’s a High Days car that’s garaged (usually another AV condition) but for anything like daily use the highest limit I found was 7500 miles which in a normal year isn’t enough for my 986. 

Proper surgery there 👏

Would it have been an option is to remove the padding on the reverse side of the carpet? How much would that gain I wonder?

5 hours ago, Ken986 said:

Fitted a new accelerator pedal assembly. What a pain ...

It’s an awkward job alright. 

Why did it need changing?

Drove it to the local main dealer to collect OPC (Over Priced Components) - rear coffin arm eccentric bolt assemblies.

Roof down, plenty of forays to 6500+rpm - in 2nd - wonderful. 

Found some slipperiness on the way - no eNanna/PSM - which reminded me why I love driving these older Boxsters so much, they must be amongst the very last of the analogue cars. 

3 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Another idea might be to make a tray for it to sit on so it is effectively bunded but still open from above. Not sure how easy this might be to achieve.

Had been thinking along the same lines - what about an ice cream container, with the lid off?  Glue the container to the floor pan and glue mounting points inside the container, mount the ECU on those. Job done.

39 minutes ago, JazH said:

Out of interest, @map, what were your engine mods? Do you race it?

I don't race it - the build was part of a long term plan (I've owned it for more than 10 years) to see how far I could push the 986 for track days and road trips without ruining it as a road car.

The upgraded motor was built to 3.7 litres to coincide with the increasing "tiredness" of the installed engine.

I had a spare 986 3.2 motor in parts which was the basis for the build - I still have the 3.2 986 engine we took out which may be built up as something interesting to go into a 996 in due course.

Currently dyno'd at 326bhp with lots of torque - it's on an interim map so a bit soft - but it is lovely to drive and there are no stability/traction control systems on the car....

Stage 2 tweaks are around induction and we should then see more than 350bhp when it's done - as if it'll ever be done 

44 minutes ago, JazH said:

Today's purchase!

Before you start the build up for real just check that the black and white pins will fit through all the liners, all the way to the furthest end of the engine.  

If the internals are stock you should be fine - but I'd check all the same.

Know this can be a problem because we bumped into this exact situation when my admittedly very non-stock motor was put back together.

Following with interest.

23 minutes ago, the baron said:

Already fitted the hardtop, still waiting for my roof rack a friend picked it up from the seller near Manchester and thought we would have seen each other in the last few months but c19 has put a stop to various car shows we would normally meet at, so he's posting it but needs to get bubble wrap and suitable box to send it in, looking forward to fixing it on

👍

Any chance of some photos of your hardtop’s lining treatment please?

Have been gradually working through an alignment problem - the root cause of which seems to be the "pill" type speed bumps that are liberally spread around the part of SW London that until relatively recently I used to live in.

Now got the Toe settings close to the Target specific for my car's set up - needed new bushes - but suffering from seized rear camber adjusters. This means the alignment isn't quite where it should be but it's close enough for the time being to allow me to get some mileage.  In my stash I've got new bushes and will get new Eccentric Bolts.  Also have a pair of TRW Coffin Arms if it needs them.

Today:

ARB has been adjusted to its softest setting.  

Dampers wound back two clicks at the rear and a single click at the front - the changes allow a bit more weight transfer/roll to help with grip on cold, damp roads. 

Roof drains cleared ready for hardtop and roof rack in early November (when are you fitting yours @the baron?)

And an investigative pootle along some of my favourite East Riding country roads just to make sure it's working as expected.

It is.

Next jobs are more lighting and Winter tyres - but it'll be late November before those two config changes happen.

56 minutes ago, the baron said:

Put my hardtop on the car, forgotten how special it feels with the Boxster red Alcantara lining I had done a few years back, just need an excuse to drive it now

Photos please.

986 x hardtop - year round analogue sports car. 

21 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Bad: Costing up 4 coffin arms, 2 front tuning forks, two rear drop links and two Bilstein B4 rear shocks at about £850.  Anyone got any tips on current good value suspension parts?  Cost here based on reasonable numbers for non Porsche branded parts from D911

Have a similar dilemma as a rear toe control arm bush has failed - not going for new arms partly because of price but mainly because I'm planning a more focused suspension rebuild for 2021.  

My interim step is to replace those bushes with Powerflex components and Porsche's eccentric bolt, washer and nut.  Parts cost is sub £100 covering both sides then labour being whatever it will be.

May be worth looking at this approach rather than all new complete items.