map

6 minutes ago, Elmer Fudd said:

Yeah, it's got a full s/s sports exhaust system, 74mm throttle body and plenum, with a K&N air filter

Remap is the next step. The thing to do is find someone with a track record - which is why you asked the question. 

Having been through this loop albeit on a 3.2 I’d suggest being prepared to travel. 

Wayne Schofield @ Chipwizards is very well regarded in Flat6 circles. He did the very nice ECU tune on my 3.6 SC before I got it but I’ve never used him myself. 

Would be worth giving him a call. 
 

The guy that did the remap on my 3.2 only works as a contractor to the Indy/Motorsport sector and I was never able to find out his name or locate him. Which is a shame because that map was epic. 

4 hours ago, joeluth said:

@map you got me a bit worried now with all this bracket talk!  but if the hanger is the same on the 2.7 and 3.2 as stated here  https://www.douglasvalley.co.uk/prestige-parts/porsche-boxster-exhaust-hanger-bracket-986-2.7-3.2-1999-+-+-2004-year-9961124100-22271/

then I'm thinking it's ok to use my existing bracket,   or am i missing something?

The difference is (as I understand it) that the mounts that are specific to the gearboxes. 

See below - these are from D911:

3.2S:

2.7:

Sadly I have no direct personal experience but know that folk have fallen foul of this difference over the years.
Just wanted to flag it so that you don’t get caught with the car in the air and effectively immobilised.  

Somewhere in my stash I’ve got a set of standard “U” bends that turn from the Cat Pipes to the 986S back box. They’re used serviceable - if you need those let me know and I’ll double check their condition and we can sort out logistics. 

Clamps - can’t advise on diameters but someone will know and update you. Personally I’d spend the money on decent aftermarket clamps and would t bother with Porsche branded items. 

One thing you haven’t mentioned is the silencer hanger - did the seller send that with the back box?  The 2.7 and 3.2 used different mounts because they had different gearboxes. Would be worth you posting a picture of what you’ve got to go on before you start taking stuff off your car - that way more experienced eyes can spot possible gotchas. 

On 7/26/2021 at 11:32 AM, Bradders59 said:

Replaced the blown "Airbag" bulb in the dash. The new bulb stays on permanently, which may be why it had a blown bulb fitted. 

Another electrical issue to fix by the look of it. The Germans / Finns seem worse than the French / Italians for electrics.

Might be on if an airbag has been disconnected/reconnected with the battery connected.  As others have said the right diagnostic tool will confirm the problem and if there isn't one it can be cleared.

Have had next to no electrical problems on my 986 which is far from cosseted - those that have cropped up have been 12v battery replacement after periods of low use/very cold weather, key fob batteries, 1x level sensor failure on LItronic system, lambda sensors plus coil packs and the odd tired/blown bulb those aside nothing else in well over 10 years ownership.

Liking this 👍

25 minutes ago, Boxsum said:

I’d love to have your 3.7 986 😍

Thank you. It’s characterful to say the least. 

Got two heavily modded older Porsches - 3.7 986 and 3.6 911SC (1982) so something modern and nothing like either of those equals the Cayenne GT thingy that was mentioned on here a while ago. 

As much as the Taycan is a tech marvel I’ll have plenty of time (🤞) for elastictrickery powered transport. 

Paddles weren't an option for the 986.  However there is a project documented on this forum (and elsewhere) that adds Mercedes paddles to the rear of the steering wheel and these are connected to the transmission's existing control wiring in the steering well.

If it is done neatly there's no particular reason to be especially wary - I would just check that the work as expected when test driving it.

In terms of major stuff at 95k - no more than service items but there's a view that the auto transmissions can benefit from a fluid and filter change around 100k miles.

45 minutes ago, JazH said:

Pleased with dyno results post-engine rebuild.

I'll bet - that's a healthy gain over stock.... how does that fit with the series' regulations?

17 minutes ago, edc said:

@map are the litronics not cutting it? Have you tried a bulb change in them?

Litronics as headlights are fine provided they’re refreshed - as you suggest - with that in mind have already put brand new NightShagger bulbs in, had the auto-levelling sorted and the headlamps have been polished. So they’re as good as they will be. 

Main beam is where I’m after a bit more range and this rig will hopefully deliver that. If it doesn’t changing for something else will be straightforward because the electrics and rigid mounts are in place. 

32 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

How reversible is it as that number plate position might be an MOT issue?

MOT: good point and one that has been anticipated.  
There’s an element of “playing the odds” regarding the relevant regulations - the plate itself is compliant in terms of size, font, spacing and reflectivity. But it isn’t mounted vertically which is what I think you’re referring to. 

It’s all completely reversible and achieved without any new holes in the PU. 

6 minutes ago, the baron said:

Interesting addition, totally practical, first time I’ve seen spots on the front of a Boxster 🤔

Thanks - know it’s the kind of tweak that will divide opinion but the trigger was pulled for practical reasons. There’s also an option to add further elements if there’s a need 🤔

58 minutes ago, edc said:

Looking good. How did you wire in/switch on the front spots? And where did you get the sticky front plate? 

Thank you - it’s something I’ve been working towards for a while now. Had settled on yellow driving lights because of the slight murkiness that we get up on the Dales and Wolds. 

Lamps are on a relay that is fired by a feed from the main beam circuit.  

Three switch positions:

1) On with main beam.

2) Off regardless of main lighting circuits. 

3) On regardless of main lighting circuits. 

Switch is located in front of the shifter. 

Plate supplied by: https://proplates.co.uk/ after two unconnected car mates both recommended them. A bit slow to process but quality seems up to the mark. 

Drove it following its release from Boot Camp

These are great cars aren’t they?

When you bridge the relay and the fuel pump runs will the car start?

Or could this "package of remedies" mean that "new customer" prices will go up?

19 hours ago, Chukkieegg said:

my 2.5 is still in garage after breakdown and I just lost a bit of faith in her

The loss of faith is the problem - have been through this loop several times with my own car.

Get it sorted and get some high quality miles driven then see how you feel about it.  My own experience is that this is the ideal treatment for "Broken Boxster Blues" and you'll be very happy you kept it.

@Zenith_Mike - a sad reason for becoming your car's keeper but wonderful that you want to be able to use it as much as possible.

In terms of a main dealer I wouldn't bother - the likelihood is that they won't have much if any 986 specific experience and will in all probability give you a very long, daunting and horrifyingly expensive list of items of parts that need changing.

At this time I'd get a big service done and would include and transmission oil change in that.  In reality a decent general workshop should be able to take care of this for you.  The only "oddity" might be the transmission fluid change but that's well covered on YouTube.

With regard to a local specialist there's a BoXa.net map which might be useful - linked below:

Alternatively maybe @daz05 can assist with some suggestions that haven't yet reached the map.

This forum is full of experience and knowledge, keep this thread running and you'll find there's plenty of solid advice headed your way.

Like @Nobbie and @Lennym1984 above I'd go for a follow up assessment but with some specific low cost high value data points added in:

Get some mileage on the engine and new oil.  Change the oil and have it tested by a 3rd party for metal contamination - not expensive (circa £50) and you get a breakdown of what's in the oil and where it's likely to be from.  @Nobbie asked If they still have oil from the engine (unlikely but worth asking) should they have some then that could be analysed now and compared to the fresh oil drained once you've got some running time on it.

Ask for a copy of the engine parameter readouts from the specialist's workshop system and their interpretation of those data.  You should see items such as cam deviation, over-revs and the like on that printout.

Combine the oil analysis with the engine parameter results and the specialist's interpretation.  This should provide a solid body of data/information on which to found your "Next Steps".  You'll also have a baseline for future oil analysis which would help you monitor condition over time.

Oil Analysis option here: https://www.millersoils-shop.co.uk/oil-analysis-kit?orderby=5&pagesize=6  there are of course other suppliers.

Would help people if you told us whereabouts in the country you wanted recommendations for specialists/garages. 

A town or city would be enough - couldn’t see a location in your profile. 

Give us the whereabouts and you’ll get solid experience based suggestions. 

5 hours ago, JonSta said:

My favourite sort - dirty porn.

Trust me that’s not dirty car porn. 

This is dirty car porn. 

3 minutes ago, Davey P said:

On the subject of tyres, is there a definitive thread on here somewhere that lists the "correct" tyre make for each model?  Mine has got Pirelli P Zero's at the moment, which I assume are pretty good, but it would be helpful to know if there is one particular tyre that is recommended.

The Porsche website used to carry a full listing of which tyres were N rated for each model at that point in time.

The list included all the relevant tyre versions in the relevant sizes with a N rating for each model as well as showing Summer & Winter options.

Now the website says - ask your local OPC......

35 minutes ago, edc said:

Do you have a CEL light on, running problems or issues with MOT emissions? If no to those then leave alone. 

This ^^

Had a similar (possibly identical) IPD and TB fitted to my 3.2 (it’s now fitted to my 3.7) and mine was in fact a Cayman Plenum. 

As such the vacuum connections to the Plenum are not the same as they are for a 986. 

Take another look at all your hose connections and make sure all those that are in place on a 986 have a place on the IPD Plenum.  From memory one of the 986 hoses needed blanking off to finally get it working.  It was a long, long time ago and so I’m not able to be more specific. 

Post a photo of the Plenum so that the cast in description is shown. It maybe that someone else can help. 

My understanding is that they're fitted to the 99x because the coil packs are behind the rear wheels and get covered in road spray.  

On a Boxster the engine is in front of the rear axle so far less prone to this onslaught.

Likely to be seen as an un-necessary cost (materials and supply chain management overhead) instead of a cost saving as such.

By all means see if you can fit them but I wouldn't bother.