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What have YOU done to your 986 today ?


Mike G

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I'm not surprised the 550 lights you found were expensive as they were probably from a US car. The UK ones just have the regular facelift rear lights. 

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Removed both of the stuck drop link top bolts/pinch bolts from the rear suspension thanks to one of these.

Silverstorm 593128 - 400W Electric Impact Wrench 230V https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B014FO4I1I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gi5qBbTZRRP30

It's my new favourite tool. The bolts slowly started turning and spitting out the oxidation, eventually freeing up completely so they just spun out. Very happy with that.

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10 hours ago, edc said:

4 hours to replace just 1 seems excessive. 

Indeed. My fault for using a non-specialist I suppose.

They had to fashion a tool to extract the broken one or something. I'm sure a specialist would have had the correct tooling on-hand.

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I finally got my A/c regassed today after replacing both condensers and the drier. This concludes my "jobs" for the car and brings my total first year spend to about £1500 (which is a little leess than the 2k I had budgeted)

 

Jobs completed since I bought it:

1. Completed a full service with belts, plugs, and brake fluid (£220)

2. Changed the brake pads (£30)

3. Replaced the front fan resistor (at a refreshing cost of £1.36)

4. Refreshed the front suspension arms (all of them) (£270)

5. Changed drop links all round (£100) - I could have reused 3 of the 4 old ones but I figured I'd treat myself

6. Replaced both Anti Roll bars and bushes with the thicker M030 jobbies (not exactly essential but hey ho) (~£325 all in for a new rear bar, used front bar, and complete set of bushes)

7. Replaced all tyres with Toyo Proxes Sport (yeah I know they're not n-rated but they do the job just fine and they're better than the mismatched axles I had before) (£400ish)

8. Replaced both front condensers and a drier (£100)

9. Replaced an O2 sensor (I had to give up on that one and get the garage to do it) (£115)

10. Fitted an airbag deactivation switch (1 crate of beer)

 

Only the O2 sensor, fan resistor, and brake pads were actually essential to do (so a cost of about £150) whilst the rest were all done for fun/completeness. Given that it is a £20 year old Porsche and one probably wouldn't bother doing things like suspension arms and roll bars (unless they were causing an issue) on a 20 year old fiesta, I really don't think all of the scare stories are justified. Of course, if I had paid a garage to do this, the cost would be much higher but that could be said of any car.

 

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Put down a deposit on it! Picking it up tomorrow evening :)

Ordered the console delete kit from my local OPC so I will have a little more knee room, as well as some of the bits and bobs I need to retrofit cruise and computer.

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3 minutes ago, ed80 said:

Put down a deposit on it! Picking it up tomorrow evening :)

Ordered the console delete kit from my local OPC so I will have a little more knee room, as well as some of the bits and bobs I need to retrofit cruise and computer.

Right then pictures when you can, oh and enjoy your first drive  :)

 

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Started taking apart the front suspension tonight. The rattle gun makes this so much easier, pity I can't get to all the bolts with it.

The bush on the front tuning fork was also really mushy

Also I apologise for the vertical video :)

Edited by Eddy555
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I agree, but I've not seen anywhere that sells the bushes on their own. I may investigate further after I've done this as all the arms look fairly solid. Maybe someone does a refurb service. It'd be less wasteful of there was

Edited by Eddy555
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You can buy tuning fork bushes (if you do a Google there are a few "tuning" companies in the US that produce them) but in all honesty, I just wouldn't bother. The performance ones are quite pricey and I'm pretty sceptical that you would be able to simply "rebush" the arms. I *assume"* that fitting the perfromance ones requires the arm to be at least partially remachined and so they are probably only relevant to racing applications where budgets are a little more elastic

I do agree that it is wasteful though. I ended up dumping two coffin arms (I removed them as part of a suspension overhaul and unfortunately ripped the boots getting them off) and felt very guilty about throwing away two big chunks of good aluminium.

 

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Finished fitting the front coffin arms, control arms, tie rods (inner and outer) and drop links this morning.

I found the cause of the squeaking/creaking from the front. The coffin arm ball joint was knackered and dry. Should be nice and quiet now.

After seeing the condition of the inner tie rod end, I probably wouldn't have bothered with changing them really, they looked and felt OK, but I've done it as I had the new ones in.

Next up is to get the alignment done.

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On 7/13/2018 at 7:19 AM, Eddy555 said:

I agree, but I've not seen anywhere that sells the bushes on their own. I may investigate further after I've done this as all the arms look fairly solid. Maybe someone does a refurb service. It'd be less wasteful of there was

Hartech do exchange ones.  http://www.hartech.org/porsche-boxster-parts

Not uber cheap though.

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Finally got around to re blacking the plastic scuttle in front of the windscreen that had sun bleached grey.

No products used her !  Very carefully did the old hot air gun trick for an original and permanent fix, looks  100 %

Edited by Mike G
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1 hour ago, Mike G said:

Finally got around to re blacking the plastic scuttle in front of the windscreen that had sun bleached grey.

No products used her !  Very carefully did the old hot air gun trick for an original and permanent fix, looks  100 %

Hi Mike forgive my ignorance what’s ‘the old hot air gun trick?’ Thanks in advance.

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4 hours ago, Clivescoobydo said:

Hi Mike forgive my ignorance what’s ‘the old hot air gun trick?’ Thanks in advance.

On many grey'd plastic car parts the use of evenly applied heat melts the oxidation ever so slightly restoring the original black look. I've been doing it on old bumpers for years with amazing results.  There is a knack to it though... much like spraying paint, you need to apply heat evenly and gently and watch the reaction to get a uniform finish. Its much much easier on a relatively small part like the scuttle because you can work on one half at a time.

My plan was to remove it and do it in the garden , but instead protected the windscreen and bonnet with some cloths  and its all good. 

The plastic transforms before your eyes.... but be aware of course, too much heat in one place for too long will end up melting  !!

I wish I had taken some before and after photos but will try and put some finished pics up

Mike

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