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What have YOU done to your 986 today ?


Mike G

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You can Dremel the slot around 5mm to get around 0.5 to 1 degree extra neg camber. 

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1 hour ago, edc said:

You can Dremel the slot around 5mm to get around 0.5 to 1 degree extra neg camber. 

Correct in thinking fine for turn in but not pleasant on straight roads, ie motorways etc?

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9 hours ago, edc said:

You can Dremel the slot around 5mm to get around 0.5 to 1 degree extra neg camber. 

hi edc , 

can you explain what slot you’re talking about here? is it in the mount hole that comes down from the car chassis where the back of the coffin arm goes in your talking about about ilongating ......or the one the toe arm goes into? or on the bush holes in the coffin arms ?

i changed my nearside rear coffin and toe arm ( what a Bar&£@rd !!! that was to get off ) i had a problem getting another degree of camber to get it to factory specs think i needed another 4- 6mm of travel ? can’t remember now. 

looked into these inserts into the coffin arms from germany that have two holes so you can achieve a bit more - camber i think it was , but problem was at the time they couldn’t tell me how much ?,...and the car felt night and day, but it’s not 100% and will eat the tires up if not corrected in future!

 

Daniel 

Edited by Dan944
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11 hours ago, edc said:

You can Dremel the slot around 5mm to get around 0.5 to 1 degree extra neg camber. 

Hi, What a great idea! Will do that if required. You are talking about the three holes at the top yes?

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11 hours ago, ½cwt said:

It was at Kwikfit under their 8 track ups in 2 years Geocare deal it was on Hunter equipment.  I've used 3 of the 8 now in 12 months but with the knowledge I needed to do suspension work at some point I figured at least I'd get a report even if they are not the best at precise settings.  When I've worked through the suspension next year and fitted my 18" rims I'll get a full specialist track up done but in the meantime it serves a purpose and I don't have to worry about tracking costs if I do the jobs in several smaller batches to help cashflow...

Hi

Interesting, I will look the Kwikfit option up. I think the Boxsters are not too difficult to set up (bolts allowing),  its not like the 993's that have the kinematic arm.

Tks

Berni

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11 hours ago, bally4563 said:

Correct in thinking fine for turn in but not pleasant on straight roads, ie motorways etc?

Toe affects the turn in much more than camber. Mine isn't a daily driver but I find it fine on the times it goes on a motorway. This one and previous one set up kind of the same and both done week long joins around Europe no problem. 

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3 hours ago, Dan944 said:

hi edc , 

can you explain what slot you’re talking about here? is it in the mount hole that comes down from the car chassis where the back of the coffin arm goes in your talking about about ilongating ......or the one the toe arm goes into? or on the bush holes in the coffin arms ?

i changed my nearside rear coffin and toe arm ( what a Bar&£@rd !!! that was to get off ) i had a problem getting another degree of camber to get it to factory specs think i needed another 4- 6mm of travel ? can’t remember now. 

looked into these inserts into the coffin arms from germany that have two holes so you can achieve a bit more - camber i think it was , but problem was at the time they couldn’t tell me how much ?,...and the car felt night and day, but it’s not 100% and will eat the tires up if not corrected in future!

 

Daniel 

No. It's the slot in the front chassis strut tower where you already adjust the camber from. This doesn't work for rear camber. 

If you're having problems with the rear geo get some adjustable toe links. The other benefit is you tend to get these rose jointed.

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1 hour ago, Berni29 said:

Hi, What a great idea! Will do that if required. You are talking about the three holes at the top yes?

That's it. Have a good look. You can only take out a small amount until the top mount hits the metal. Mark up and Dremel out towards the mark. You only need to Dremel one side of the slot of course. I originally had this done in 2012 and it's a low cost alternative to adjustable top mounts or GT3 style adjustable arms. You get more adjustment from the adjustable parts of course but for the road up to an extra 1 degree negative camber is probably enough for most people. 

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2 hours ago, edc said:

Toe affects the turn in much more than camber. Mine isn't a daily driver but I find it fine on the times it goes on a motorway. This one and previous one set up kind of the same and both done week long joins around Europe no problem. 

OK, back to back real world comparison.  Factory spec for camber is 10' +/- 30' so between 20' positive camber and 40' negative camber.  Tested the car at 18' positive camber  which is what was measured yesterday, and looks like the car has always been set like that based on the witness marks of the top mount nuts, as I refitted it all to the same positions when I reassembled the front suspension and total 3' toe in.  I now have max camber with out slotting the holes which reports say should be around 50' which is about 10' more than factory tolerance and total toe in still 3'.  The turn in remains the same however main difference on normal roads at least seems to be the feel after turn in whilst in the corner with lock on it all seems a bit more responsive, which ties up with the outer tyre rolling onto its contact patch due to the combination of negative and body roll rather than rolling off the contact patch with positive camber. Total adjustment approx. 70', which is a pretty significant change in suspension terms, but not much real world effect but enough to make me want to keep the new setting.  No effect on dual carriageway driving from what I could feel.

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Toe in will feel steadier in the straight ahead. I would later try parallel toe and you will probably find better turn in response. 

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The negative camber you will feel the harder and faster you go into the corner deeper. This is that 'corners like it's on rails' feeling. Because the standard set up has more negative camber than the front it's not until you push the car and feel the front wash or push on that you have reached the limits of the standard set up. 

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3 hours ago, edc said:

No. It's the slot in the front chassis strut tower where you already adjust the camber from. This doesn't work for rear camber. 

If you're having problems with the rear geo get some adjustable toe links. The other benefit is you tend to get these rose jointed.

thanks for this.

my new toe arms are giving m enough toe its the coffin and that i could do with a tad more ☹️ only reason i could think of was that ii’ve got 18s on it but him pretty sure there the standard size for the s? and can’t reallt get my head round why th ey havnt got more adjustment 😡

i know of t he gt3 coffin arms that are adjustable, but there so bloody expensive! and i’ve just bought  x4 coffin arms and all the tie rods ect 🙄

 

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20 minutes ago, edc said:

The negative camber you will feel the harder and faster you go into the corner deeper. This is that 'corners like it's on rails' feeling. Because the standard set up has more negative camber than the front it's not until you push the car and feel the front wash or push on that you have reached the limits of the standard set up. 

 hi edc,  would you or anyone be able to give me what you’d concider the best front and rear set up for toe and camber for great  road handling? 

thanks 

daniel 😊🤤

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4 hours ago, Dan944 said:

thanks for this.

my new toe arms are giving m enough toe its the coffin and that i could do with a tad more ☹️ only reason i could think of was that ii’ve got 18s on it but him pretty sure there the standard size for the s? and can’t reallt get my head round why th ey havnt got more adjustment 😡

i know of t he gt3 coffin arms that are adjustable, but there so bloody expensive! and i’ve just bought  x4 coffin arms and all the tie rods ect 🙄

 

Is the car lowered? Or is it perhaps on old dampers and springs sagging lower? In either case you tend to run out of adjustment to balance the rear toe and camber.

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4 hours ago, Dan944 said:

 hi edc,  would you or anyone be able to give me what you’d concider the best front and rear set up for toe and camber for great  road handling? 

thanks 

daniel 😊🤤

Best is subjective and I've learnt over the recent years that what I like isn't necessarily what others like. But if you want an opinion I would start with something close to the edge of the standard geo, have a play for a bit then go from there. 

If you begin to get understeer then add more negative camber on the front. 

The rear is generally around 1 degree negative camber more than the front. You can look to square this up and you will have a more neutral to rear balance then. You will most likely need to slot the front at least and get some rear toe links to achieve something like -2 camber at both ends. 

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11 hours ago, edc said:

No. It's the slot in the front chassis strut tower where you already adjust the camber from. This doesn't work for rear camber. 

If you're having problems with the rear geo get some adjustable toe links. The other benefit is you tend to get these rose jointed.

thanks , and yes the suspension seems to be standard but the car does seem lowered so could be sagging possibly? i suppose i’d have to get a side profile pic as i’m not really clued up on what these should look like on 18s but it does seem low to me! 

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43 minutes ago, Dan944 said:

thanks , and yes the suspension seems to be standard but the car does seem lowered so could be sagging possibly? i suppose i’d have to get a side profile pic as i’m not really clued up on what these should look like on 18s but it does seem low to me! 

Has it got the M030 sports suspension option?  Look at the spec label under the bonnet in the block of 3 digit numbers for the number 030,  standard suspension is 029. A previous owner could have changed something since of course but it is a starting point.

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9 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Has it got the M030 sports suspension option?  Look at the spec label under the bonnet in the block of 3 digit numbers for the number 030,  standard suspension is 029. A previous owner could have changed something since of course but it is a starting point.

thanks! will check this today 👍

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I put M030 on a standard 12 year old 60k mile car and there was negligible difference in height. If you are on old standard suspension then it will have sagged. 

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