KevM79 Posted July 12, 2020 Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 1 hour ago, the baron said: To finish it off you can buy Porsche stickers on eBay which you can then lacquer over the top off, I did this a few years ago using the plastic bag method rather than removing the callipers , next time Ill remove the callipers because when I swapped my pads over the spindle was glued in place with the paint. I have them ordered already. Hopefully that paint will have cured nicely by the time they arrive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el 3.2S Posted July 12, 2020 Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 57 minutes ago, the baron said: Sounds an ideal location for Boxster ownership, good luck with the MOT It really is! Only ever driven the road once before and that was in the ML55, still a great drive but with quite some body lean going on in the bends🤣. Thanks, hoping my Boxster pre MOT work pays off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMacdonald Posted July 12, 2020 Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 (edited) This weekend I swapped both front dampers and springs on my 986 and replaced a roof rope. I only actually needed a front spring but since it was my first time I bought a couple of complete units from Steve Strange so I could experiment with the dismantling before it mattered. When they arrived, the dampers and springs looked all-but new so I tarted them up a little, replaced the top mounts (just in case) and got them on complete. The only issues were I stripped two of the caliper bolt threads (helicoil kit is on the way) and had to take the angle grinder to one of the drop links. All done (apart from mending the calipers) and I'm pretty pleased with my unexpected manliness. Without this forum, stripping the caliper threads and the seized drop link would have seemed like the end of the world. I love other peoples experience! Edited July 12, 2020 by AMacdonald 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevs Posted July 12, 2020 Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 Taxed it after putting it on a SORN at the start of lockdown. Took my son out for a drive with the top down, perfect Boxster weather. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted July 12, 2020 Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 6 hours ago, AMacdonald said: This weekend I swapped both front dampers and springs on my 986 and replaced a roof rope. I only actually needed a front spring but since it was my first time I bought a couple of complete units from Steve Strange so I could experiment with the dismantling before it mattered. When they arrived, the dampers and springs looked all-but new so I tarted them up a little, replaced the top mounts (just in case) and got them on complete. The only issues were I stripped two of the caliper bolt threads (helicoil kit is on the way) and had to take the angle grinder to one of the drop links. All done (apart from mending the calipers) and I'm pretty pleased with my unexpected manliness. Without this forum, stripping the caliper threads and the seized drop link would have seemed like the end of the world. I love other peoples experience! Owning a Boxster (and many other 20+ year old cars), a route to self improvement! Good work and by using man maths see how much money you have saved by not paying someone else to have that much fun and smug feeling as a reward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berni29 Posted July 13, 2020 Report Share Posted July 13, 2020 Hi Great work guys! I fixed both my low speed fans with some ceramic ones from Amazon (0.5 ohm 100w). They are comedically large though compared to the originals. Think very large sausage size. But they work, and I guess they will stay cooler simply because of the size of them. Berni Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMacdonald Posted July 14, 2020 Report Share Posted July 14, 2020 On 7/12/2020 at 10:53 PM, ½cwt said: Owning a Boxster (and many other 20+ year old cars), a route to self improvement! Good work and by using man maths see how much money you have saved by not paying someone else to have that much fun and smug feeling as a reward. Whoever invented the helicoil deserves a statue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted July 14, 2020 Report Share Posted July 14, 2020 4 hours ago, AMacdonald said: Whoever invented the helicoil deserves a statue. +1 - absolutely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el 3.2S Posted July 14, 2020 Report Share Posted July 14, 2020 MOT(ITV) passed this afternoon. As per previous two times it struggled on the emissions, namely the lambda at 2000 rpm. Should be under 1,03 and mine was 1,06 with engine and cats etc scalding hot. The tester then stuck a rag in the exhaust, which helped it pass last two times but still did not come under about 1,055. He then asked me to rev it at 4000 rpm and the value then fell below the limit and he was satisfied. Not sure if this is normal procedure or not? He told me whilst under the car he observed a leak in the exhaust due to corrosion at one of the bends near the back box and that this would be the reason for the emissions problem. Not had a look yet myself but am curious if this is a common place for corrosion and if it could maybe be repaired? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Menoporsche Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 Mine went for MoT last week, after warming up I ran it 15km down the nearby motorway at 120kmh (more or less officer) in third gear beforehand. I know it's a newer engine, but a bigger one and also doing just a few short trips per year. It passed, I couldn't tell you the figures. Isn't it weird / ironic that to pass the emissions test we have to chuck out a whole load of extra emissions?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheddar Bob Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 On 5/2/2020 at 4:57 PM, ½cwt said: Put all the last bits back on the car, front PU, repaired wheel arch liners, new (salvaged £6 for 10 delivered) plastic clips and stainless steel screws and a full set of stainless screws, 3 were missing when I took it off. Improved the fit of the bumper PU particularly on the right side compared to my last attempt. After a jump start, not quite enough juice in the battery after 5 weeks standing. Only issue after all the suspension work was the drive's side stone guard was rubbing on the disc so had to tweak it a bit and I forgot to plug in the brake pad wear sensors... I'll admit it took it for a short test drive to ensure the battery charged. Definitely needs tacking but nice to have it back on all fours. was this hard to do? I've got this issue on the rear right... makes a whoosh noise going around roundabouts but nothing turning left when the weight is on the wheel.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevM79 Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 I added my caliper decals this morning. Well happy with how they look now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 1 hour ago, Cheddar Bob said: was this hard to do? I've got this issue on the rear right... makes a whoosh noise going around roundabouts but nothing turning left when the weight is on the wheel.... Assuming you mean mean the rubbing, it was because I had slightly bent it whilst working on the suspension so it was a fulltime grinding rubbing noise. Just jacked it up again and bent it back away from the disc a fraction using long screw driver as a lever. IIRC others have found characteristics you describe to be hand brake related. All the other work is just time and patience. I change all the screws on the bottom of the PU to stainless and put all the push in plastic grommets/retainers back together with some silicone spray to hopefully make them easier to pull out if I need to take them off again. I'll find out this weekend as I have to replace the horns as the only noise I can make at the moment is a flat 6 motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheddar Bob Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 1 minute ago, ½cwt said: Assuming you mean mean the rubbing, it was because I had slightly bent it whilst working on the suspension so it was a fulltime grinding rubbing noise. Just jacked it up again and bent it back away from the disc a fraction using long screw driver as a lever. IIRC others have found characteristics you describe to be hand brake related. All the other work is just time and patience. I change all the screws on the bottom of the PU to stainless and put all the push in plastic grommets/retainers back together with some silicone spray to hopefully make them easier to pull out if I need to take them off again. I'll find out this weekend as I have to replace the horns as the only noise I can make at the moment is a flat 6 motor. ah well that's another perspective. I thought it was the wheel bearing at first. just seems odd that it makes that sound only going in one direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulQ Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 18 minutes ago, Cheddar Bob said: ah well that's another perspective. I thought it was the wheel bearing at first. just seems odd that it makes that sound only going in one direction. Mine does this sometimes going round tight roundabouts, and it's the metal shield jobbies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheddar Bob Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 Just now, PaulQ said: Mine does this sometimes going round tight roundabouts, and it's the metal shield jobbies. ill take the wheels off when I can and go from there. or leave it and they will just wear down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 1 minute ago, PaulQ said: Mine does this sometimes going round tight roundabouts, and it's the metal shield jobbies. I don't see how the brake disc shield can move to touch something. It is either clear or not as it is all bolted together in fixed positions and the shield is very light weight so wouldn't flex by any notable amount due to even 1g lateral force and you can't generate that much in a Boxster. Are you referring to the exhaust shields? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobbie Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 17 hours ago, el 3.2S said: MOT(ITV) passed this afternoon. As per previous two times it struggled on the emissions, namely the lambda at 2000 rpm. Should be under 1,03 and mine was 1,06 with engine and cats etc scalding hot. The tester then stuck a rag in the exhaust, which helped it pass last two times but still did not come under about 1,055. He then asked me to rev it at 4000 rpm and the value then fell below the limit and he was satisfied. Not sure if this is normal procedure or not? He told me whilst under the car he observed a leak in the exhaust due to corrosion at one of the bends near the back box and that this would be the reason for the emissions problem. Not had a look yet myself but am curious if this is a common place for corrosion and if it could maybe be repaired? Sounds like a corroded sleeve joint between the U bend and the cat perhaps. I failed an MoT on emissions when I had a leak there. Fairly easy to change and you can buy suitable joint on eBay for not too much rather than paying £££ for the OE parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulQ Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 7 minutes ago, ½cwt said: I don't see how the brake disc shield can move to touch something. It is either clear or not as it is all bolted together in fixed positions and the shield is very light weight so wouldn't flex by any notable amount due to even 1g lateral force and you can't generate that much in a Boxster. Are you referring to the exhaust shields? Doesn't make any sense to me either but it definitely is the stone guard shield as I can make it worse by bending the thing in a tiny bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheddar Bob Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 16 minutes ago, PaulQ said: Doesn't make any sense to me either but it definitely is the stone guard shield as I can make it worse by bending the thing in a tiny bit. Lee from CPS said to me in his text its likely to be this. However ill know for sure when I drop the car to him...again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, PaulQ said: Doesn't make any sense to me either but it definitely is the stone guard shield as I can make it worse by bending the thing in a tiny bit. Bend it the other way to stop it then!!! or have I missed something here? Edited July 15, 2020 by ½cwt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulQ Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 3 minutes ago, ½cwt said: Bend it the other way to stop it then!!! or have I missed something here? It never goes away 100% no matter what position it is in. I can make it worse by bending it in a little, so it must be this that is causing the noise, and not something else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewy Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 Just make sure when you bend it you are flexing it away all around it as there can be a tendancy to push away the top, that may be catching and hence push the bottom closer making that now catch as you are only talking 1 or 2mm deflection to make it rub. Been there done that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulQ Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 1 minute ago, Hewy said: Just make sure when you bend it you are flexing it away all around it as there can be a tendancy to push away the top, that may be catching and hence push the bottom closer making that now catch as you are only talking 1 or 2mm deflection to make it rub. Been there done that. Yes, I know what you mean..... I think the fact that it isn't very flat at all now doesn't help here, but that doesn't really explain why it only happens occasionally on roundabouts.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
some bloke Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 I fitted new frunk gas struts as the old ones didn't really work until the bonnet was right up to the top. Now the lifts itself from about halfway. Can anybody tell me if the rears struts on a 986 pop the boot lid up themselves when new? You know, when you unlock it with the keyfob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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