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What have YOU done to your 986 today ?


Mike G

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Hi Guys, I fitted another cigarette lighter into the RHS blanking plug. This one is wired to a switched source, so it goes on with the ignition, and off when the key is removed. So my bluetooth adapter and dashcam go into that. Much better.

I am awaiting the replacement DME (and matching alarm) that I damaged when I cut the wires to an o2 sensor with the engine running. What a royal PITA.

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OK so passenger side all came off nicely loose fitted new coffin arm and tuning fork fitted n both sides and just finished building up the struts after giving the hub casting a good wire brushing before rain stopped play.  Extra brute force didn't make the seized drop link move (14lb sledge hammer) bring on the induction heater tomorrow! 🤞

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Just put in new Bilsteins, oem blue/yellow springs, new bump stops, top mounts and bearings on the front. Feeling great.

Have you got an induction heater? 

The drop links were well seized on mine, using freeze spray they came away nicely. 

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Well done sounds like it’s going good. The best way I found for the drop links is to angle grind the link off exposing the hex bolt then put a breaker bar on it which will enable you to turn the bolt and break the corrosion in the casting then turn it anti clockwise preferably with an impact gun and wind it out. No more than a 10min job!

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Mainly sitting gazing at the pictures on my laptop of the 986 that will hopefully be parked outside my house next weekend (after Nick Giles has run an eye over it) Oh and trying to get my post count up to the magic 40 :-) 

Boxster 10.jpg

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35 minutes ago, Christopher2110 said:

Went for a run out this morning, stopped for a sausage butty and a coffee. Hit 160,000 on the way home :thumbsup_still:

MqEtxoVl.jpg 

Nice, is that the original IMS? What have you done if anything to the engine?

 

7 minutes ago, Mudpup said:

Mainly sitting gazing at the pictures on my laptop of the 986 that will hopefully be parked outside my house next weekend (after Nick Giles has run an eye over it) Oh and trying to get my post count up to the magic 40 🙂

Boxster 10.jpg

What happens at 40?

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2 minutes ago, Halfordwill said:

Nice, is that the original IMS? What have you done if anything to the engine?

 

What happens at 40?

I'm allowed to post in the secret bits of the forum i believe 😉

(thats another one racked up :-)) only about another 25 to go....

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5 hours ago, gIzzE said:

That is what was done on mine, but needed the help of some freeze off spray. 

Alas Plus Gas, freeze off and even 14lb sledge hammer once the strut was off the car.  No dice. 

My new magnetic induction heater arrived this afternoon and I found it to be a bit More Bletchley Park rather than Magic Bullet i.e. it shortened the war and made it less painful.  Still took 3 minutes on the bolt to get enough free rotation for my impact wrench (400NM) to be able to turn it, up to that point full force on the end of a 600mm breaker bar just about turned it. I thin I might have had a particularly well seized one!

Just working through the torque settings (Using a jack under the bottom pin to load up the suspension - pretty near to Z0 position if not perfect) , passenger side all back together waiting for the wheel to be fitted and the driver's side needs a couple of bolts torqued up then refit the disc & caliper.

Overall less of a slog than I feared given I broke off to do an hour's work on the step son's car too.

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10 hours ago, Halfordwill said:

Well done sounds like it’s going good. The best way I found for the drop links is to angle grind the link off exposing the hex bolt then put a breaker bar on it which will enable you to turn the bolt and break the corrosion in the casting then turn it anti clockwise preferably with an impact gun and wind it out. No more than a 10min job!

A lot more than 10 mins on one side on mine!!!!

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1 hour ago, Halfordwill said:

Does sound like it was well seized, but you won on the other bolts that I had to cut off. 
make sure you use some anti seize for next time!

Copious Wurth AL1100 paste on bolt shanks and Coppaslip on the shock tube as the upright with the seized bolt put up a good fight getting that out too.  A lot of oxide residue to remove with a wire brush and emery cloth before refitting, shock dropped straight in.  Coffin arm bolts were a doddle, still had traces of green coating on them from when they were factory fitted.

Just the rears to do now...

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7 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Copious Wurth AL1100 paste on bolt shanks and Coppaslip on the shock tube as the upright with the seized bolt put up a good fight getting that out too.

Preparing to do similar work on my 987. Interested to know why two different types of anti-seize?

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Just now, red rocket said:

Preparing to do similar work on my 987. Interested to know why two different types of anti-seize?

Honestly, virtually sod all left in the Coppaslip tube so I was using it up and AL1100 is damned expensive and I've not got much left.  I thought the shock tubes were a lower grade issue.  Then again with work this major I'm probably not going to find out if either made a difference, 'cos it won't be me taking it apart again in 20 years when these new parts wear out.

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20 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Copious Wurth AL1100 paste on bolt shanks and Coppaslip on the shock tube as the upright with the seized bolt put up a good fight getting that out too.  A lot of oxide residue to remove with a wire brush and emery cloth before refitting, shock dropped straight in.  Coffin arm bolts were a doddle, still had traces of green coating on them from when they were factory fitted.

Just the rears to do now...

Trouble with doing all this work is that there is not much to look at unless you are on your knees looking or taken loads of photos. 
Of course you do have that lovely warm feeling knowing all that work has been done 😁

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1 hour ago, Halfordwill said:

Trouble with doing all this work is that there is not much to look at unless you are on your knees looking or taken loads of photos. 
Of course you do have that lovely warm feeling knowing all that work has been done 😁

And as I've gone for Koni Special Active shocks, some nice red bits to look at rather than black, when you take the wheels off.....

Reminds me, this all started when I found a broken spring when I went to paint my calipers back in April. They are still peeling and faded red.

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Accepted the arrival of Fall and installed the hardtop. 

Also replaced the left side window regulator and swapped the original grey dashboard gauge cover with a black one.  My Boxster has a grey interior and in certain lighting conditions the reflection from the grey dash onto the windshield created some visibility issues.  The black gauge cover has greatly reduced the reflection on the windshield above it.  I wish there was a simple fix for the passenger side, I'm not up to changing the entire dash! 

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11 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Honestly, virtually sod all left in the Coppaslip tube so I was using it up and AL1100 is damned expensive and I've not got much left.  I thought the shock tubes were a lower grade issue

Ah right. I've got a small tin of Optimoly I use on the wheel bolts but not sure there's enough to stretch.

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7 hours ago, 986T8 said:

You know you can put a thin wrench between the boot and the ARB on the other side, right?

I hesitate to say you may not have tackled this task on a seized ARB bolt....  if you have apologies.

A 17mm open ended is not up to the task of the torque required if these are seized in and will burr off the hex (if they are not seized, no problem and you are quite correct).  If you do burr it off the task would become a whole lot harder :ermmm:.  The starting point is cutting off the ARB joint to allow access for a 6 sided (not 12 point) socket on a breaker bar to avoid burring off this hex.  Lifting the breaker bar in a standing position what the assembly was still on the car was JUST enough to start rotation of this after lots of time putting shock into the 'bolt' with an impact wrench and a lump hammer on the other end.  Even when I got it off the car and positioned it against a concrete step, a 14lb sledge hammer did not budge the pin.  My impact wrench would not even turn it a little until after the heat treatment and even then only after more work with the breaker bar.  The only time a 17mm on this hex works it when refitting the new on to stop it rotating until there is enough load on it to use a ratchet or driver to fasten the nut.

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3 minutes ago, red rocket said:

Ah right. I've got a small tin of Optimoly I use on the wheel bolts but not sure there's enough to stretch.

Coppaslip would be fine all round I'm sure, anything would be better than dry!  You don't really need that much as a thinly smeared covering is all that's required and any excess gets squeezed out and wasted.  I just happen to have AL1100 from a former employer...

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9 hours ago, S8ked said:

Accepted the arrival of Fall and installed the hardtop. 

Also replaced the left side window regulator and swapped the original grey dashboard gauge cover with a black one.  My Boxster has a grey interior and in certain lighting conditions the reflection from the grey dash onto the windshield created some visibility issues.  The black gauge cover has greatly reduced the reflection on the windshield above it.  I wish there was a simple fix for the passenger side, I'm not up to changing the entire dash! 

Noooo its too early for the hard top! 😖

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