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What have YOU done to your 986 today ?


Mike G

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4 hours ago, ½cwt said:

OPC has quoted £97.92 with discount, so going ahead with that to avoid buy cheap buy twice. 

Current part number is 996 107 023 04 if anyone else needs it.

Is that the same part number for the 2.5 986?

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Yesterday. Decided to tackle my ABS fault. Diagnosed with iCarsoft as front right wheel speed sensor.

Removed wheel, all looked straight forward, undo 10mm bolt, head sheared off. Sensor virtually welded in place ( galvanic corrosion? ) managed to persevere and break it off in pieces. Needed to use the car so reassembled with the new sensor and fault cleared but nothing but friction now holding the sensor in place.

Removal of broken bolt is a job for another day I think.

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This morning I decided to tackle the quick job of removing the broken rubber front lip on both sides and replace with new ones I got this week.

Quick job my rear end... Took me almost two hours to get the old screws out and replace the lips. At the same time I decided to do the rear wheel rubber lips as well. Left side had a huge amount of dirt, stones and cr@p come out of the  little holes. Manhandled the lips in until they clicked (softly) into place. I noticed that the right hand side side sill corner is a little loose. I think (no, I'm sure actually) the screw that is supposed to hold it at the top (under the wheel arch liner) is absent. Didn't feel like getting the car into the air, take off the wheel, remove the wheel arch liner, fit screw, reinstall everything. Next time I need to take the wheel off I'll just make that part of the plan. You can probably replace the screw without all the drama but in all honesty after fighting with the front lips I would rather take it for a spin in the sunlight and have a non-alcoholic shandy somewhere.

Edited by RedBarediver
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8 hours ago, Gunscrossed said:

Yesterday. Decided to tackle my ABS fault. Diagnosed with iCarsoft as front right wheel speed sensor.

Removed wheel, all looked straight forward, undo 10mm bolt, head sheared off. Sensor virtually welded in place ( galvanic corrosion? ) managed to persevere and break it off in pieces. Needed to use the car so reassembled with the new sensor and fault cleared but nothing but friction now holding the sensor in place.

Removal of broken bolt is a job for another day I think.

There is a chap on 911uk forum who does drilling jigs for properly drilling out these bolts when they shear. You might get it with an extractor if you are lucky, but once you have to drill, the bit will likely slip off into the softer alloy rather than follow the M6 bolt down the correct line.

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2 hours ago, ½cwt said:

There is a chap on 911uk forum who does drilling jigs for properly drilling out these bolts when they shear. You might get it with an extractor if you are lucky, but once you have to drill, the bit will likely slip off into the softer alloy rather than follow the M6 bolt down the correct line.

I think this is something I am going to need to do or have done (probably the latter) as I have one snapped bolt and can’t believe how much the manifold bolts appear to have corroded compared with the rest of the underside. Do you know the user name and are the jigs engine specific given the different engine capacities?

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2 hours ago, TV8 said:

I think this is something I am going to need to do or have done (probably the latter) as I have one snapped bolt and can’t believe how much the manifold bolts appear to have corroded compared with the rest of the underside. Do you know the user name and are the jigs engine specific given the different engine capacities?

This is for the ABS sensor. @bally4563 rents out a jig for engine manifold bolts.

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2 hours ago, Daboy3000 said:

Today I lost the ability to reverse. Luckily I was just trying to get back on my drive after a spirited cross country drive. I'm guessing all the pot holes caused a cable to pop off somewhere. 

I'm slowly losing the will. 

They are old cars....

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15 hours ago, ½cwt said:

There is a chap on 911uk forum who does drilling jigs for properly drilling out these bolts when they shear. You might get it with an extractor if you are lucky, but once you have to drill, the bit will likely slip off into the softer alloy rather than follow the M6 bolt down the correct line.

Thank you, to be honest the sensor is such a tight fit I'm wondering if it's worth bothering. 

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Are the 986 really the same as 996? I think maybe the 2.5 maybe different to 2.7/3.2 only because the exhaust and hanger are different. 

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2 hours ago, ½cwt said:

I believe they are on all M96 and possibly M97 engines, however @bally4563 can you confirm form you experience?

 

1 hour ago, edc said:

Are the 986 really the same as 996? I think maybe the 2.5 maybe different to 2.7/3.2 only because the exhaust and hanger are different. 

Er the 996 install of M96 is the reverse of 986 M96 install.

The flywheel faces forwards in the 996 and rearwards in 986.

Combining this with the necessary packaging differences I’d be really surprised to see interchangability between 986 and 996 M96 exhaust manifolds.  

Unless of course all M96 exhaust manifolds are exact mirror images in terms of how they bolt up, match to exhaust ports and interface to the downstream system.

In terms of M97 I know there are differences on the heads’ inlet drillings and on that basis I’d be surprised to see 9x7 exhaust manifolds fully interface with a M96 engine.

For some very selfish reasons I would be delighted to learn otherwise. 

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Manifolds themselves are different between different platforms ie. 98x vs 99x , and certain capacities.

 

20 hours ago, TV8 said:

jigs engine specific given the different engine capacities?

In the context of the jig, the one Bally works will work on all non-mezger 9x6 and 9x7.1 cars, as the bolt pattern is the same.

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