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What have YOU done to your 986 today ?


Mike G

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Lost reverse gear down to this linkage coming loose.

53201243535_1710610200_c.jpg

A replacement isn't available, you have to change all off the gearbox cables and some other bits at a cost of around £1000, not including labour.

With the help of the internet I made this new linkage for £20, I've fitted it and it drives great!

53200906981_f33338e531_c.jpg

 

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11 minutes ago, Daboy3000 said:

Lost reverse gear down to this linkage coming loose.

53201243535_1710610200_c.jpg

A replacement isn't available, you have to change all off the gearbox cables and some other bits at a cost of around £1000, not including labour.

With the help of the internet I made this new linkage for £20, I've fitted it and it drives great!

53200906981_f33338e531_c.jpg

 

Just out of curiosity. What size is the ball joints as I have a pair of 8mm thread with 13mm Dia ball joint on my desk?

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Sorry to say, but it seems someone was having you on @Daboy3000 .

You can get just that rod connector part, 986 424 931 06, it is about £200, or the whole linkage assembly on the side of the 'box with the bracket, pivot, the ball ends and the rod connector that the cables then connect to is 986 424 913 06 at about £620.  A set of cables is about £360.

All above parts from Porsche.

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18 hours ago, Alan36 said:

Is there a how to for the indicator not cancelling fix?

There's not really a fix. A plastic spur which activates the cancel function has snapped off. Replacement is the remedy.

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2 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Sorry to say, but it seems someone was having you on @Daboy3000 .

You can get just that rod connector part, 986 424 931 06, it is about £200, or the whole linkage assembly on the side of the 'box with the bracket, pivot, the ball ends and the rod connector that the cables then connect to is 986 424 913 06 at about £620.  A set of cables is about £360.

All above parts from Porsche.

That is the new part, mine has the old one, with the old bracket and old cables.  I would need to replace the whole lot.

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3 hours ago, Daboy3000 said:

That is the new part, mine has the old one, with the old bracket and old cables.  I would need to replace the whole lot.

OK I see you have an early 2.5, the old cables are only compatible with the old linkage, so about £1000 for the up issued linkage assembly and cables that will work with it.  That's a pain. 

Glad you got a bush fix that should work well, just keep the ball joints lubed with grease and if you can find a rubber hood for them, even better, as they are quite exposed on the side of the gear box.

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Finished doing a couple of jobs today that I started a few days ago.

First one was the dreaded repair of the indicator stalk, which wouldnt stay on when turning left.

This job would be quite easy if you happen to be born with five or six very small hands, which I wasnt, so its a bit of a faff.

I tried glueing the little tang back in place with Tiger seal , but to my surprise it didnt hold it.

Then tried epoxy putty and that didnt work either.

Then tried melting a hot glue stick around it and that did the job. Just a matter of reassembling the innards of the switch after that !  It took several attempts, but I got there in the end.

Next up was the phantom horn blowing issue. I decided to push some Tiger seal (which is like liquid rubber) in around where the bushes were coming apart, and also small O rings on either side.

Then reassembled it all back onto the car, and very happy to have indicators working perfectly, and horn working normally.

One small problem was that although I thought I had followed correct procedure, the airbag light came on.

A couple of minutes with the icarsoft cleared the code and put the light out, so all sorted now.

Over the weekend Im hoping to get the drivers doorcard off and blast some contact cleaner around the doorhandle microswitch to see if it will cure the window drop problem.

If it doesnt, then a new switch will be needed I imagine.

I rubbed down and painted the front wheels from the set I acquired recently. Im back at work tomorrow for five nights, so will take the rears with me and do the same to them while Im there.

Should have the wheels on the car early next week, and then put the Sport design wheels currently fitted, up for sale. 

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5 hours ago, ATM said:

Can I offer up a 16 inch alloy and see if it will go on?

I'm struggling to visualise why the wheel diameter would be an issue? I had a quick Google but not checked on the car but if you drew a circumference around the caliper or disc/hub, all the suspension arms fit inside it.

In any event, mine are home brew ones and the ends are basically the same shape as standard suspension. 

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30 minutes ago, edc said:

I'm struggling to visualise why the wheel diameter would be an issue? 

I added some pics to my car's blog - will add them here. Basically the standard 16 wheel doesn't fit on the S. It hits the toe arm ball joint.

Ideally I need an extra couple of mm maybe. Not sure if I can achieve that with a rose jointed arm. Trying to figure that out.

 

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13 hours ago, edc said:

Looking at that I think a wheel spacer would work. 

I tried that too

The only way to use a spacer is push the joint outside the wheel barrel which would take maybe 40 to 45mm with the 16 rear wheel

In the meantime I have ordered a single Fluro joint to compare it for size with the standard toe arm ball joint - at the bottom

15mm spacer pics

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2 hours ago, Everywhen said:

Went back to orange side repeaters. The clear ones fitted by a previous owner just looked wrong.

They only really work on pre-face lift cars with Litronics as they don't have amber on the front as standard.

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On 9/21/2023 at 11:48 PM, edc said:

Have a look here 

 

Are yours like these in the link?

 

Rose joint inward end and ball joint outward end?

 

I'm planning to buy some with rose joints on both ends - pic below. I need a rose joint at the outward end to give me some extra clearance. 

 

porsche-arm-9.jpg

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