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What have YOU done to your 987 today


Tony Daniel

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New rear main seal installed - not sure why but I was a bit nervous about doing this - borrowed @bally4563 tool which made it super easy to be honest. Zipped it all down once and then slowly used old flywheel bolts to pull the tool down. Once nearly tight I removed and checked. the left side was not quite done but the right was. So carefully reattached and then pulled the left side down using nuts as spacers on the bolts... then checked throuroughly again all round and spot on 13mm...also looked good visually!
I also checked the case measurement and that looked good too!

aNvubuW.jpg

then put on the new DMF

Little tip here work out the split pin location and mark on the Front so you can easily work out where it is its not light! seen here just above 3o'clock

then installed new bolts and did the 15nm, then 25nm the 120degrees - this was tough actually as there is not enough room to get a big breaker 
Easy to mark one of the points - then mark the flywheel 2 points around = 120 degrees and voilá

FdFSO6y.jpg
then it poured down....

 

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1 hour ago, Dubdubz said:

New rear main seal installed - not sure why but I was a bit nervous about doing this - borrowed @bally4563 tool which made it super easy to be honest. Zipped it all down once and then slowly used old flywheel bolts to pull the tool down. Once nearly tight I removed and checked. the left side was not quite done but the right was. So carefully reattached and then pulled the left side down using nuts as spacers on the bolts... then checked throuroughly again all round and spot on 13mm...also looked good visually!
I also checked the case measurement and that looked good too!

aNvubuW.jpg

then put on the new DMF

Little tip here work out the split pin location and mark on the Front so you can easily work out where it is its not light! seen here just above 3o'clock

then installed new bolts and did the 15nm, then 25nm the 120degrees - this was tough actually as there is not enough room to get a big breaker 
Easy to mark one of the points - then mark the flywheel 2 points around = 120 degrees and voilá

FdFSO6y.jpg
then it poured down....

 

Think you will understand now why to put it in dry

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1 hour ago, bally4563 said:

Think you will understand now why to put it in dry

yeah if it was wet it would slip and slide - quite easy if clean and good light... did you want spare OLD  flywheel bolts?

Edited by Dubdubz
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4 hours ago, Dubdubz said:

yeah if it was wet it would slip and slide - quite easy if clean and good light... did you want spare OLD  flywheel bolts?

Thanks but don’t need don’t intend to do one for any time soon if ever!!

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sold it 🫢

as much as I've enjoyed the boxster ownership I've now moved it on. 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wBjMvHG9pcOf5-_AUcrRrJah5KjI6hM0/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wALzwg8hnCZTeO9z-XO90SB9E3BacTR2/view?usp=drivesdk

 

I'll still hang around though as I rather enjoy Lukes Dales runs 🤷‍♂️

 

 

 

 

Edited by benjohnstone
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13 minutes ago, Dubdubz said:

Gearbox is back in… was a bit tricky as no gearbox Jack so balanced on a standard trolley Jack, not ideal but we managed it. 

Could have lent you one of them as well!!😂

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I've done all the hard lines on my 986 and you have to put inline joints in the left to right lines if you don't want to drop the front subframe and gearbox. Front to rear only is pretty straight forward, although I found all the fittings onto the flexi hoses were to solid for a flare spanner despite copious Plusgas and freeze spray, however once I'd cut the line and could get an impact driver and socket on them they spun free.

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1 hour ago, SpeedyGee said:

Has anyone replaced the brake lines on a 987.1?

I'm wondering what's involved, does anything need dropping? 

The front cross over lines require the front subframe to be slightly dropped. I had the work done by a well regarded local garage (not a Porsche specialist, but they do lots of work for a local classic car dealer) and it was roughly six hours of labour plus a few quid for some copper pipe & fluid. They also assessed all the other hard lines and cleaned/waxed them where necessary. Good peace of mind!

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6 minutes ago, SpeedyGee said:

Thanks for the reply guys.

I don't mind dropping the front subframe or the gearbox, I just wanted to gain an idea of what was involved. 
 

It really is a lot easier to put an inline joint in the rear line across the car.  If you are cleverer/more talented than me it could be possible to form the line to the left and then to the right having fed a straight length of cunifer in from the wheel arch.

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45 minutes ago, AndyM001 said:

Not today, but yesterday I cleaned the roof and then treated it with 2 coats of Fabsil Gold, seems to have done the trick.

 

Roof.jpg

Just wait till it starts to run onto your windscreen and then dry up leaving hard to remove water marks! :D 

Also due to the rain and it running onto my new blades the right side has started to bounce on its way back down due to friction. 😛 

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7 minutes ago, fizz said:

Just wait till it starts to run onto your windscreen and then dry up leaving hard to remove water marks! :D 

Also due to the rain and it running onto my new blades the right side has started to bounce on its way back down due to friction. 😛 

Wasn't aware of that, thanks for the heads up.

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1 minute ago, AndyM001 said:

Wasn't aware of that, thanks for the heads up.

to be fair it could just be a random thing with the wiper blade but the water marks are deffo consistent. I just hose off the window with fresh water when its in the drive. Its not a biggie.. :) 

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Bit of a celebration for me today.  Car passed its mot after 18 months while I did the brake pipes, coolent pipes and suspension refresh.

Couldn't have done it without this forum so thanks to all.

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