sdh2903 Posted October 26, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2023 32 minutes ago, Dubdubz said: Great work - I've not checked mine as yet - do you have any more details of the long studs in the end? as in pitch etc? And any more pics - did you undo any of the suspension arms/balljoint stuff? Given me confidence its possible on the drive! Have you bought a vacuum coolant filler - sure I read this is needed for these - but perhaps someone who knows more can comment? Theres a decent guide here. Pipe renewal For the threaded rod. The very front bolt (#9 in the pic up the page) is m12 x1.5 so I made up 2 rods for those. All the other bolts are m14 x 1.5 which I didn't have. So I removed the long bolt from the tuning fork #7 and fitted it at the back. Then just gently lowered it down on the jack. No suspension components removed just the 2 steering rack bolts as per the guide. On the coolant refill side, I don't have a vacuum filler. I've read conflicting information. Some says that the gen 2 doesn't have the bleeder on the header tank. Some say it does. As you say hopefully someone on here can comment? Overall not a terrible job to do on the drive but would be so much nicer to do on a 2 post lift. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philc Posted October 27, 2023 Report Share Posted October 27, 2023 My 2.9 had a bleeder under the engine cover next to the coolant tank, I’m guessing the confusion comes from earlier models having the bleeder near the filler in the boot and it being moved to undef the engine cover on later models. You can probably refill without a vacuum filler, but I’ll bet you my car you overheat the engine in the process. Just get a vacuum filler and buy/borrow/hire a compressor if you haven’t got one. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubdubz Posted October 27, 2023 Report Share Posted October 27, 2023 2 hours ago, Philc said: My 2.9 had a bleeder under the engine cover next to the coolant tank, I’m guessing the confusion comes from earlier models having the bleeder near the filler in the boot and it being moved to undef the engine cover on later models. You can probably refill without a vacuum filler, but I’ll bet you my car you overheat the engine in the process. Just get a vacuum filler and buy/borrow/hire a compressor if you haven’t got one. They are not very expensive - perhaps we do a BoXa.net thing like the engine mount drift where it gets posted and sent between people. or someone buys one and rents it out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdh2903 Posted October 27, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2023 Does anyone have any suggestions/recommendations for one? Or if anyone is willing to lend me one in exchange for beer tokens? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdh2903 Posted October 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2023 so have managed to finish off the brake pipe replacements, thought the rear one over the gearbox would be a pig but was actually ok, i think it would be pretty impossible to replace with a factory steel line with engine and box in place. Thankfully all the mega crusty caliper pipes came out without any problems And then given an initial fill and bleed with the eazi-bleed, will give them another bleed off the pedal aswell. Its now also been refilled with coolant, I did it the old fashioned way, ar*e up nose down and massaging all the rubber hoses, disconnecting the bleed hoses in the front wheel arches helped during initial fill. Have done a few heat cycles now and the amount needed to top up each time has gotten smller and smaller. I reckon ive got 22 ish litres back in so its not far off and the temps etc are behaving normally. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubdubz Posted October 30, 2023 Report Share Posted October 30, 2023 30 minutes ago, sdh2903 said: so have managed to finish off the brake pipe replacements, thought the rear one over the gearbox would be a pig but was actually ok, i think it would be pretty impossible to replace with a factory steel line with engine and box in place. Thankfully all the mega crusty caliper pipes came out without any problems And then given an initial fill and bleed with the eazi-bleed, will give them another bleed off the pedal aswell. Its now also been refilled with coolant, I did it the old fashioned way, ar*e up nose down and massaging all the rubber hoses, disconnecting the bleed hoses in the front wheel arches helped during initial fill. Have done a few heat cycles now and the amount needed to top up each time has gotten smller and smaller. I reckon ive got 22 ish litres back in so its not far off and the temps etc are behaving normally. good to hear on the filling up - where has your car been though it does seem to have not faired well against the elements... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdh2903 Posted October 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2023 24 minutes ago, Dubdubz said: good to hear on the filling up - where has your car been though it does seem to have not faired well against the elements... Think it's a combination of being used in Scotland and the fact its not been used much in the past few years. Been used hard and put away salty! It's bad for a 55k car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattman42 Posted October 30, 2023 Report Share Posted October 30, 2023 Great work! Must be a pain to do but also very satisfying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philc Posted October 31, 2023 Report Share Posted October 31, 2023 (edited) On 10/30/2023 at 5:18 PM, sdh2903 said: Have you driven it yet? Mine only showed it had an airlock on the first drive, was happy idling to temp when stationary, just something to be wary of, but as you’ve got 22 litres back in, it should be good 👍 Edited October 31, 2023 by Philc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdh2903 Posted November 1, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2023 19 hours ago, Philc said: Have you driven it yet? Mine only showed it had an airlock on the first drive, was happy idling to temp when stationary, just something to be wary of, but as you’ve got 22 litres back in, it should be good 👍 No not yet, ill take it for a spin with the bleed valve open and double check the levels once I get it back down on its wheels. 👍 Had a couple of hours yesterday and was hoping to get one corner of the suspension fully stripped, but a very stuck drop link slowed me up. Eventually cut the ball end off with the angry grinder and used the impact gun on the hex to break it free, very slightly depressing to think ive got another 3 to go 🙄 Looks like a couple of dry ish days coming up so hope to progress a bit more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattman42 Posted November 1, 2023 Report Share Posted November 1, 2023 wow thats a lot of work you have going on there - i would have sent it off to someone else a long time ago! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted November 1, 2023 Report Share Posted November 1, 2023 53 minutes ago, sdh2903 said: No not yet, ill take it for a spin with the bleed valve open and double check the levels once I get it back down on its wheels. 👍 Had a couple of hours yesterday and was hoping to get one corner of the suspension fully stripped, but a very stuck drop link slowed me up. Eventually cut the ball end off with the angry grinder and used the impact gun on the hex to break it free, very slightly depressing to think ive got another 3 to go 🙄 Looks like a couple of dry ish days coming up so hope to progress a bit more. Seized drop link - All part of the Boxster DIY mechanic initiation. If they don't go first attempt, always get the cutting gear out. They don't just magically free off as they are partly chemically welded in place, or at least trapped by expanded corrosion from the iron/aluminium dissimilar metal situation. Same applies to the two eccentric bolts on the rear end, coffin arm and toe link inboard ends although you have got one off OK. If they don't go, get the nut off and waggle them around so you can get a recip saw or cutting disc in there to cut the bolt. It is firmly seized into the bush and any impacts from your impact wrench are being absorbed by the rubber bush. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdh2903 Posted November 2, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2023 23 hours ago, ½cwt said: Seized drop link - All part of the Boxster DIY mechanic initiation. If they don't go first attempt, always get the cutting gear out. They don't just magically free off as they are partly chemically welded in place, or at least trapped by expanded corrosion from the iron/aluminium dissimilar metal situation. Same applies to the two eccentric bolts on the rear end, coffin arm and toe link inboard ends although you have got one off OK. If they don't go, get the nut off and waggle them around so you can get a recip saw or cutting disc in there to cut the bolt. It is firmly seized into the bush and any impacts from your impact wrench are being absorbed by the rubber bush. You must have had a crystal ball! moved to the O/s rear today and not only was the drop link seized but also the inner coffin arm bolt too, just my luck i had no steel cutting blades for the reciprocating saw, after lots of swearing and backing it off and on finally managed to get it out. Was also met with a broken spring too as half a coil had broken off 🙄 Ive been messing with cars for longer than ive been able to drive them and can honestly say the suspension strip out has been the worst i've ever done, Porsche seriously lacking in the metalurgy department in the noughties. Gave the wheel arches a good soaking in BH surfex and gave them a scrub up in preparation for building back up And now onto the nice stuff, building up the new bits ready to go on tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted November 2, 2023 Report Share Posted November 2, 2023 What did amaze me when I'd finished my 986 suspension strip (so the metallurgy issue you are experiencing is lingering over from the 90s and carries on into the 10s too I believe - call it a Porsche characteristic) was how light all the parts were that I was scrapping, except the dampers. Perhaps one or two steel inserts would have helped but that adds cost and weight. Still it is worth all the agro to be rewarded by a quiet riding, tautly handling, like new car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattman42 Posted November 3, 2023 Report Share Posted November 3, 2023 I'm still staggered as to how bad it is underneath for a 55k mile car - just goes to show what can be hidden underneath Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdh2903 Posted November 3, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2023 5 hours ago, Mattman42 said: I'm still staggered as to how bad it is underneath for a 55k mile car - just goes to show what can be hidden underneath Yep, just goes to show low miles isnt everything. Someone buying this car without doing any digging would be getting some hefty bills. So nice today to be assembling some new parts rather than old crusty ones! So apart from a few new pipe clips, which ive just collected, and the ARB to clean up and paint thats the back end complete. I will then move to the front, although still another 10 days or so for the spyder front coffin arms to arrive so wont be able to complete, but ive plenty of other tasks to keep me occupied. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
invisible Posted November 4, 2023 Report Share Posted November 4, 2023 What made you decide for the Koni Active shocks over OEM or any other option? What springs have you chosen? Asking because I have another 987.2 on 104,000m and looking to replace them. Ta. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gillbe Posted November 4, 2023 Report Share Posted November 4, 2023 Have this same rear suspension refresh to tackle on my 2010 987.2. Question - did you have to detach the half shaft to have enough wiggle room to get the rear shock absorber out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdh2903 Posted November 4, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2023 8 hours ago, invisible said: What made you decide for the Koni Active shocks over OEM or any other option? What springs have you chosen? Asking because I have another 987.2 on 104,000m and looking to replace them. Ta. Ref the shocks Just going off the reviews on here and a mate with a 986 rates them. Wasn't much choice really, OEM are £££ so it was down to the konis or bilstein b4. Springs are h&r sport springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdh2903 Posted November 4, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2023 1 hour ago, gillbe said: Have this same rear suspension refresh to tackle on my 2010 987.2. Question - did you have to detach the half shaft to have enough wiggle room to get the rear shock absorber out? No the half shaft remained in place. I did however remove the coffin arm first which gave more room to get the shock out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdh2903 Posted November 5, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2023 yesterdays haul of scrap metal removed from the front end! I did make one small c*ck-up on the last drop link, I cut the ball end off but my blade had cut into the hex part which meant the impact gun just chewed up the hex. Will need to weld a nut back on to get this one out, at least the fronts are easier to remove as an assembly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdh2903 Posted November 7, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2023 Before reassembling any further the front wheel arch areas needed some attention. Area around the strut tops had some surface corrosion. also the braces that were removed for the subframe drop were a bit crusty. cleaned up ok with the wire brush in the die grinder. Also the rad shroud brackets cleaned up And also both front wings aft of the wheels had paint erosion so got the same treatment. All these bits, plus the front arb brackets and rear ARB were then treated with Bilt hamber hydrate 80 to hopefully stop any further spread. I had initially thought the rear ARB was scrap but it looked a lot worse than it was so thats a few quid back into the pot. Plan is then to acid etch prime and stonechip the strut tops and the front wing edges, the rest will get a few coats of satin black. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nelmo Posted November 7, 2023 Report Share Posted November 7, 2023 Jees, it looks horrendous - I bet mine looks the same underneath- best not to look.... 🤫 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted November 8, 2023 Report Share Posted November 8, 2023 Looks much like my 10 year older 986... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Vikingo Tropical Posted November 9, 2023 Report Share Posted November 9, 2023 It’s just incredible how rough your cars looks underneath over there, There have to be a lot of salt at your roads…. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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