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Roof not working at all!


phazed

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Just been running through, "Help Me DIY" on youTube, Convertible Top Will Not Open.

Looking at the switch unit that is operated by the handle above the mirror, his one has two microswitches. I believe, one for the windows and one for the roof.

Mine only has one microswitch! The one with the red button.

I'm assuming that they all should have two microswitches and someone has been, "at" mine?

If that is the case, where is the best place for this switch please?

 

I really have a shed load of work to do to this car!

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There is another switch, it's just built into the plastic somewhere and you can't see or get to it. I just replaced mine last week, £75 from Porsche and about an hour to do, very simple. Several YT videos available...

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I've a feeling that some of the units only have one microswitch. Where the second one mounts, the contacts have never been soldered....

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9 hours ago, phazed said:

Roof is up and I need to access engine! 

Can you hear anything work, or trying to work? What I mean is when you undo the roof latch does anything happen? If the windows drop then the roof latch microswitch is not your problem. If the windows don't do anything then definitely your problem is with that microswitch.

Try to eliminate the easy fixes first. There is a way to get the roof down manually (as I found yesterday) but no need for open heart surgery when an aspirin will do.

 

 

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Nothing happens at all. Watched the video yesterday on YouTube. I will check the fuses next and then remove and replace the big relay. There are various tests and you can do with the relay removed with a multimeter. Putting the multimeter in the connectors exposed on the fuse board in various positions should give you an idea of what is wrong.  

 Nothing, I like better than getting down inside the footwell, not!

My point earlier is that some show two micro switches. Mine only has one. Any comment on that? 

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5 hours ago, phazed said:

Nothing happens at all. Watched the video yesterday on YouTube. I will check the fuses next and then remove and replace the big relay. There are various tests and you can do with the relay removed with a multimeter. Putting the multimeter in the connectors exposed on the fuse board in various positions should give you an idea of what is wrong.  

 Nothing, I like better than getting down inside the footwell, not!

My point earlier is that some show two micro switches. Mine only has one. Any comment on that? 

If nothing at all happens then it tells me that the roof latch microswitch is acting up. If the handbrake light comes on when you engage the handbrake it means that the microswitch by the handbrake is okay. There is only one microswitch by the handbrake so if the light on the dash for the handbrake activates as normal you can disregard that as a problem.

If there is no sign that there were ever two microswitches in the roof latch mechanism then I wouldn't worry that one has gone AWOL. Test the one you have - spray some contact cleaner into the latch and work it a few times to loosen any potential corrosion on the contacts etc. Operate it and see if your windows drop normally. If the windows still do nothing then I would look at the microswitch in the roof latch and see if I can replace it. If the windows do operate and nothing else happens (no relay clicking etc) then I would start looking at the relay - maybe change it for a known good one to test if you have access to a friend with a working roof? If you can hear the relay clicking and nothing else then one of the other microswitches or the roof motor is at fault. 

Eliminate the obvious problem points and you should be able to home in on the (hopefully) one thing that is acting up. Good luck, let us know how it turns out.

Just edited to add you have a stronger constitution than I do... I avoid crawling into the footwell if I can.  I also avoid fannying around with a multi-meter (because I generally do not have a clue of what I am doing with one...). Easy fixes for me thanks.

Edited by RedBarediver
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Will try and get back on the roof shortly. Just a recap: if I switch the ignition on, the brake light is on all the time with the handbrake on or off. I assume that is the handbrake one. Judging by the video, the handbrake light comes on and goes off as you lower the handbrake. Mine doesn’t and stays on.
Absolutely, nothing happens when I operate the hood switch.

Will do the contact cleaner thing and move forwards. Is there a separate handbrake warning light apart from the red brake light, which I assume doubles as the brake reservoir low warning light?

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17 minutes ago, phazed said:

Will try and get back on the roof shortly. Just a recap: if I switch the ignition on, the brake light is on all the time with the handbrake on or off. I assume that is the handbrake one. Judging by the video, the handbrake light comes on and goes off as you lower the handbrake. Mine doesn’t and stays on.
Absolutely, nothing happens when I operate the hood switch.

Will do the contact cleaner thing and move forwards. Is there a separate handbrake warning light apart from the red brake light, which I assume doubles as the brake reservoir low warning light?

That doesn't sound right. When did the brake light start staying on? It will show a light if the brake wear sensors are worn so that one (or more) activate the brake wear light. If the handbrake light is on all the time, then it shouldn't prevent the roof operating unless there is an issue with the brake light microswitch. I've had brake lights on because of a broken wear indicator wire and my roof operated normally. Also, not to belabour the obvious but if the brake light is on all the time for something else (brake wear indicator etc) then you can't really tell if the microswitch by the brake lever is working.

If your car has never had a working roof and your handbrake light has always been on then I would sort the brake thing first. Check the reservoir for sufficient brake fluid, check the wear indicators and pads etc etc. If all that is as it should be then see if you can clean the brake microswitch and get that working properly. Once the brake microswitch turns the light on and off as it should then you know the first part of the system is working properly.

I think you need to carefully go through each part of the process in turn and eliminate any uncertainties before moving on to the next part. Handbrake, then roof latch, then fuses, then relay etc etc etc

Edited by RedBarediver
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Sounds like a plan. I have only driven the car onto the trailer and off the trailer. It is now stripped down. Every corner exposed, bumpers, exhaust, seats, and more stripped off.

Good points relating to the brake sensors. I can unplug them and bridge them if necessary. Will check fluid which was going to be drained completely anyhow and move on from there. As the seats are out it will be easy to remove the centre consul if necessary.

Have 15 month old granddaughter all day tomorrow so will probably get most of this done on Wednesday..

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19 minutes ago, phazed said:

Sounds like a plan. I have only driven the car onto the trailer and off the trailer. It is now stripped down. Every corner exposed, bumpers, exhaust, seats, and more stripped off.

Good points relating to the brake sensors. I can unplug them and bridge them if necessary. Will check fluid which was going to be drained completely anyhow and move on from there. As the seats are out it will be easy to remove the centre consul if necessary.

Have 15 month old granddaughter all day tomorrow so will probably get most of this done on Wednesday..

That sounds like awesome fun. If I had the room I would love to get hold of another Boxster and bring it back to life. Unfortunately my garage is occupied by an Alfa Spider at the moment and I don't think she would be too happy if I got yet another car that I want to work on.. Once the Alfa has been sold on I may be able to get away with it.

Keep posting any issues you run across on here. Everyone is super-helpful and someone will always have run across the same problem you may be struggling with.

For what its worth I would definitely sort everything else such as brakes etc first before worrying about why the roof doesn't work. As long as you have it under cover and out of the elements I wouldn't worry about the roof yet. And if you do have to close the roof you can always do so manually until you need to start sorting it out properly.

In fact it may be worth opening the roof manually and putting it in service mode so you can access the engine. Then when you're ready you can start sorting out the roof so it works as it should. I seem to remember the roof is closed at the moment. See my struggles with opening the roof manually in another similar thread.

Edited by RedBarediver
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10 minutes ago, Daboy3000 said:

If you open the roof at the catch then reach into the back and disconnect the ball joints you can then operate the roof manually.

 

Yes, I gave up on trying to disconnect the ball joints to get the clamshell open. It was MUCH easier to take off the little clips.

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I think that is a good idea too open the roof manually.

I have such a list to do to the car that the roof workings and problem could wait.

Minor list of things to do, some done:

Fit aftermarket silencer and repaired cats.

Strip down each caliper,clean, check and reassemble

Renew all flexible brake lines and front pipes to hubs

Fit stiffer springs and dampers

Fit new AC condensers and new pipe front to rear.

Complete full service of engine and renew drive belt

Refill transmission

Find out why windows don’t work

Find out why roof doesn’t work

Remove God awful Porsche stripes above sills

Replace seats and other interior trim

Refit blasted and painted anti-roll bars with Polybushes.

Replace shot blasted and painted fuel tank straps.

New battery and treated battery tray

Clear completely blocked, drains front and rear

Drill and re-tap manifold bolt holes to heads

Fit stainless exhaust manifolds

Repair cracked coil packs

Various bits of rust treatment and touching up to the underside, (not much considering age)

change all coolant

Fit track pads and wheels

Refit everything removed from underside, bumpers and headlights

And probably a handful of other things that I come across.

No rush to complete, I just pop into the garage for a few hours every now and again.

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A set of 6 new Beru ZS178 (the OE up issued Porsche part) are under £100 for Autodoc incl. delivery on the right discount day on the app.

Check all the hose clips on the front rads while you have full access.  These spring clamps broke on two of my hoses (only noticed it was the clamps after I'd already bought one hose...) resulting in coolant loss.  Just replace with a jubilee clip.

If it is a track car consider removing the A/C compressor (shorter drive belt and less power drain) and the condensers at the front to give better cooling.  May be consider an under drive pulley kit too.

Also braided hoses for the brakes.

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I wonder why they can be that cheap? Prices I got where around the £35 mark.

A good idea about removing the AC, (apart from those awful hot TD's!).

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4 hours ago, phazed said:

I wonder why they can be that cheap? Prices I got where around the £35 mark.

A good idea about removing the AC, (apart from those awful hot TD's!).

The are running fine in my car, not just a suggestion but based on experience.

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Read the manual earlier. You are correct.
Need to investigate why the handbrake light is on all the time. Or is it that all lights stay illuminated as a test when ignition is switched on. I cannot start the engine as there is oil in it yet.

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18 hours ago, phazed said:

Read the manual earlier. You are correct.
Need to investigate why the handbrake light is on all the time. Or is it that all lights stay illuminated as a test when ignition is switched on. I cannot start the engine as there is oil in it yet.

That will be why

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