Help with window regulator replacement

[robert997]

Having watched 5+ YT vids, bought 101 projects and Bentley manuals, and parts arriving at OPC, I have decided to brave my window regulator replacement !

I’m at the stage of removing the membrane inside the door. The door has been off before - the car had an ‘off’ in its history - some screws missing and trim clips broken. So far par for the course. But how best to remove and replace the membrane.

It looks and feels very well stuck down, which is needed for water proofing of course. Do i cut around the glue with a Stanley knife? And then what to buy to reseal?

I think I’ve read butyl tape mentioned, but should I be using some sort of mastic or glue??

Thanks for the tips !

[ATM]

51 minutes ago, robert997 said:

Do i cut around the glue with a Stanley knife? 

NO

 

The bottom is where it leaks.  If this is tightly sealed then leave it alone and pull down the top part.  If you can leave much of the bottom sealed and still do the job the do so.  If you must remove the whole membrane then yes you may need to cut but dont cut the mebrane.  Maybe this is what you meant.  I had to check.  Only cut the stuff sealing it.

 

But first of all see if it easy to pull the top away.  You should get enough access doing this.

 

Ideally you dont want to damage the membrane but it can be replaced.  Everything can be replaced.  But ideally you want to re-use as much as poss.

 

Lets not worry about re-assembly just yet.  You can still use the car without the door card on.  Either with or without the membrane in place.  So even if you dont have a garage to allow you to leave the car half done you can still do half a job and leave the car outside or even drive it like that.

 

Which regulator did you buy?

 

I used a copy part and it fell apart again in 12 months.  So then I bought a pucker Porsche part from ECP.

[ATM]

 

[ATM]

Membrane off

[ATM]

Glass out

[ATM]

Motor out

[robert997]

Thanks v much. That’s exactly what i meant, peeling or cutting the glue not membrane.
 

After your comments on another thread i bought the Porsche regulator and have a very simian box in front of me now!

How did you reseal the membrane?

[½cwt]

I used this:

Westspark 13.1ft 4M 8mm Butyl Rubber Sealant Sound Deadening Rope Caulk Tape for Car RV Windshield Headlight Door Black : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

You can peel it off the roll and make it nice and thin.  It then sticks well but if necessary in future you can get under it with a plastic scraper to remove.  Make sure it is thin and pressed flat well, or you have trouble refitting the door card - ask me how I know!  You'll also have loads spare off a roll this size even after doing two membranes.

[Boxob]

You could use the onboard hair dryer to soften the sealant around the membrane to help it pull away from the door. 

[robert997]

3 hours ago, ½cwt said:

I used this:

Westspark 13.1ft 4M 8mm Butyl Rubber Sealant Sound Deadening Rope Caulk Tape for Car RV Windshield Headlight Door Black : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

You can peel it off the roll and make it nice and thin.  It then sticks well but if necessary in future you can get under it with a plastic scraper to remove.  Make sure it is thin and pressed flat well, or you have trouble refitting the door card - ask me how I know!  You'll also have loads spare off a roll this size even after doing two membranes.

Thanks - ordered for delivery tomorrow !

 

[robert997]

4 hours ago, ATM said:

 

The bottom is where it leaks.  If this is tightly sealed then leave it alone and pull down the top part.  If you can leave much of the bottom sealed and still do the job the do so.  If you must remove the whole membrane then yes you may need to cut but dont cut the mebrane.  Maybe this is what you meant.  I had to check.  Only cut the stuff sealing it.

 

Thanks - i managed exactly this after you’re advice - just peeling away the top and sides, and managed to leave the bottom edge completely sealed.

[robert997]

The two regulators are subtly different. The new Porsche part is the lower one, i removed the upper (green) one, which interesting has a large R on the motor housing - making me wonder if it was for the Right door - this being the left / passenger door ??

The new Porsche one uses 10mm bolts instead of T30 fittings to bolt to the door frame. Shape and size of clamps different too - i used a paint pen to draw an outline on the glass before removing it from the old clamps, and the new ones line up but are a different shape !

I’ve no way of knowing if the one I’ve removed is genuine or aftermarket.

The new one also had this little bag stapled, with what looks like a rivet and two rubber pieces ? Obvs no instructions as its from the OPC… and no mention in Bentley or 101 projects, or any YT videos I’ve yet seen…

 

Fortunately it’s in and tested now. After what feels like hours of fractional adjustment of the clamps, fore/aft, each clamp height, and then bracket rake, the window finally opens and closes and fits the door, and fortunately drops adequately to allow the door to open ! Phew !

 

[robert997]

My mystery parts - a rubber bung, a rubber top-hat that looks like it fits the bung in a t-track like a roof-rack, and a pin that looks like a football inflator??

Any ideas??

The broken regulator - it does look original to me, Brose is also stickered to the motor. And the wiring plugs were a real challenge to remove..

 

[Boxob]

The pin is a pop rivet.

[TROOPER88]

The parts are needed.

The regulator isn’t just for a 986 but 996 also AFAIK.

For a 986, the ‘stop’ is riveted to the bottom of the frame.

Check your old one as it should be there. 
 

I am very surprised that the window is operating correctly with it not fitted.

I can see the cut out in your new regulator where it goes.

Edited April 3 by TROOPER88

[robert997]

Thanks @TROOPER88 - would appreciate some help ! I’ve not seen/read this before. Where/how does it fit, and how do i rivet without a rivet gun??

Is there any guidance available pls?

Glad I’ve asked before sealing it all back in the door !!

[TROOPER88]

1 minute ago, robert997 said:

Thanks @TROOPER88 - would appreciate some help ! I’ve not seen/read this before. Where/how does it fit, and how do i rivet without a rivet gun??

Is there any guidance available pls?

Glad I’ve asked before sealing it all back in the door !!

Copy the old one Robert; it is there, I can see it in your picture.

If the stop is not there, the glass is permitted to drop too low in the door and from experience, the glass will not come up but hit the frame. 

Customers have brought their Boxsters to me in the past where they have done exactly this.

You could use a small nut and bolt if you do not own a rivet gun.

[robert997]

7 minutes ago, TROOPER88 said:

Copy the old one Robert; it is there, I can see it in your picture.

If the stop is not there, the glass is permitted to drop too low in the door and from experience, the glass will not come up but hit the frame. 

Customers have brought their Boxsters to me in the past where they have done exactly this.

You could use a small nut and bolt if you do not own a rivet gun.

That’s exactly what was happening - it was lowering too much and the glass was hitting the frame internally. I adjusted repeatedly the parameters i could - height, rake and fore/aft - until it worked reliably.

Does it fit on the bottom right bracket - at the foot of the L on the new regulator? 

[TROOPER88]

1 minute ago, robert997 said:

That’s exactly what was happening - it was lowering too much and the glass was hitting the frame internally. I adjusted repeatedly the parameters i could - height, rake and fore/aft - until it worked reliably.

Does it fit on the bottom right bracket - at the foot of the L on the new regulator? 

The stop is to prevent this you see.

As for location, as above, you’ll see it on the old one  

Look at your pic and you can just make it out on the bottom right hand corner 

[iborguk]

https://amzn.eu/d/j6tvrC9

[robert997]

22 minutes ago, iborguk said:

https://amzn.eu/d/j6tvrC9

Thanks - i was already there ordering it !!!! Unfortunately it doesn’t come until Friday, i checked Argos/b&q , screwfix etc. Love an excuse to buy a new tool…😉

[ATM]

10 hours ago, robert997 said:

Thanks - i managed exactly this after you’re advice - just peeling away the top and sides, and managed to leave the bottom edge completely sealed.

Pay attention to the bottom corners too rather than just the bottom. So lets say 3 or 4 inches up the sides from the bottom. I can't imagine water finding it's way in through the upper section but the bottom corners are obviously potential leak points. 

If you now have your old seal along the bottom and are adding new around the bottom corners only then just be mindful that water will find a way, if it can, through any breaks or gaps between the 2 seals.

Water drips down onto the membrane through the external upper window seal which is obviously not water tight. Then travels down and ideally out the drain holes on the bottom of the door.

Sealing the mebrane isn't just for water leaks but for road noise also. So make sure all access holes in the door have rubber bungs in.

[ATM]

This is what the factory seal looks like. I'd assume yours isn't factory because all of these cars must have been fixed at some point. Notice they use a very small bead but 2 runs. Theirs is way thinner than the 8mm strip you've bought. Obviously don't get it in the holes for the door panel clips or they will bond in and you'll have a job getting the panel off next time. If you seal inboard of these holes the clips themselves become a leak point although I think it's impossible to properly seal these clips. 

I've seen some more ingenious solutions like adding plastic sheet inside the door to direct any water from the upper seal to the bottom of the door without touching the membrane. 

 

[ATM]

Perhaps we need a sticky for membrane. Comes up a lot. Almost as often as my John Thomas which used to be regular every morning.

[fizz]

Great thread. Went to wash my car today and the window got stuck halfway down whilst the regulator continued to the bottom. Lol.

Heard a grinding as it was happening.  What's the chances that the window has just come loose and just needs to be reseated into the regulator? (Wishful thinking)

Next question has already been answered. Get genuine porsche regulator will be bought. So the design 911 OE match with 2 years warranty is a no no? 

Also when yours went, did you have a churning sound? Hoping it's not the motor that's gone as opposed to the regulator.