What have YOU done to your 986 today ?

[el 3.2S]

2 hours ago, Topbox said:

... and I dont suppose it was raining either 😁

Not then but there was a shower this evening though.

[Sazzy]

11 hours ago, el 3.2S said:

Low beer warning light was on in the fridge at lunchtime so nipped out to local petrol station to get some. Decided to stash it in the pockets behind the seats as did not get a bag. Whilst rumaging around, I found several coins which had fallen down and lodged beside the seat runner. Turned out to be 5.50€ likely lost by me, a 20 pence from the second owner in UK and a 20 pfennig from the first owner who resided in Germany. Germany fully switched to the Euro in 2002 so this pfennig has sat there for at least 16 years! A good haul which more than covered the beer costs!

 

I always forget these pockets behind the seats exist! And then the one time I did put something in them I 'lost' it for a week, as again I forgot they exist!

[el 3.2S]

2 hours ago, Sazzy said:

I always forget these pockets behind the seats exist! And then the one time I did put something in them I 'lost' it for a week, as again I forgot they exist!

They are a bit stealthy. I actually use the one behind the passenger seat for storing all the car documents and insurance papers etc.

[map]

On 11/7/2018 at 3:42 PM, ½cwt said:

Fitted new stereo head unit so now have DAB and Bluetooth streaming.  Boy did the old unit need a hell of a pull to get it out even with the correct Porsche keys, looked like a small bit of adhesive tape may have got in the wrong place.  Once strange thing though, since disconnecting the OEM Becker head unit when I lock the car with the remote the horn toots once with the indicator flash, didn't before the head unit change but I can't understand how there might be a connection...?

Also replaced top CD storage unit on lower console for a plain bin.  Now got decent space for phones, wallet etc.

There's an electrical connection that effectively "earths" (maybe some other electrickery) against the head unit - without "re-earthing" it you'll get the beep you're describing.  A search on here, YouTube or similar should help - remember that the 996 had the same set up.

[mike597]

3 minutes ago, map said:

There's an electrical connection that effectively "earths" (maybe some other electrickery) against the head unit - without "re-earthing" it you'll get the beep you're describing.  A search on here, YouTube or similar should help - remember that the 996 had the same set up.

you need to isolate the connection not earth it.  simple way is to just to put some electical tape or duck tape on the left side of the new headunit.  There's a metal prong that is sprung-loaded that will touch the side of the headunit otherwise.

 

[map]

46 minutes ago, map said:

There's an electrical connection that effectively "earths" (maybe some other electrickery) against the head unit - without "re-earthing" it you'll get the beep you're describing.  A search on here, YouTube or similar should help - remember that the 996 had the same set up.

41 minutes ago, mike597 said:

you need to isolate the connection not earth it.  simple way is to just to put some electical tape or duck tape on the left side of the new headunit.  There's a metal prong that is sprung-loaded that will touch the side of the headunit otherwise.

Appreciate the clarification @mike597 👍

Edited November 9, 2018 by map

[Patt]

Can confirm the brown wire earths to the cage via head unit touching it.  A break in that earth sets of the alarm.

All youtube/US forums state earth the brown wire, but you need to isolate (ie tape it up) if you don't utilise an OEM cage for your replacement head unit.

[el 3.2S]

Since fitting new brake discs and pads the other day, I have found the handbrake to be very poor. It was not great before but it is a lot worse now. I actually thought it may be improved with fitting the new discs? No such luck, so rear wheels off again and followed the procedure on Renntech:

https://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/216-adjusting-parking-brake/

In the process, I unfortunately managed to destroy the hinges on my central storage bin.  Seems one of them had been glued and weakened from before. It sits in place and locks at the front at least as before, so not too concerning.

Was a bit disappointed, as once all back together, the handbrake was barely any better. I then adjusted the 2 screws some more and then more still. The second adjustment was too much as I could feel the handbrake being on all the time and both of the rotors were rather hot after testing. Have since backed off the 2 screws and will investigate further tomorrow.....

The picture below shows the handbrake cable and adjusting screws (along with destroyed cubby lid). The cable mechanism seems a bit lop sided? Should it be like this, or can this possibly indicate pulling more on one side than the other?

 

Edited November 9, 2018 by el 3.2S

[edc]

Aren't you meant to adjust the handbrake at the rear end? 

[el 3.2S]

1 hour ago, edc said:

Aren't you meant to adjust the handbrake at the rear end? 

Yep

[el 3.2S]

I did the adjustments at whe rear wheels as per procedure but it did not really help all that much. I read that some further cable tightening adjusting could be done via the two bolts at the front?

The picture of the cable mechanism (figure 2) in the link below, appears to show the same thing as mine so hopefully no problem there.

 

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/51-BRAKES-Parking_Brake_Adjustment/51-BRAKES-Parking_Brake_Adjustment.htm

[Menoporsche]

After your gear oil adventure you're now moving onto servicing your own brakes?

Dude, you're living dangerously!

[el 3.2S]

2 hours ago, Menoporsche said:

After your gear oil adventure you're now moving onto servicing your own brakes?

Dude, you're living dangerously!

Haha no problem but have some faith in me though , I have successfully completed a full coolant system upgrade, including expansion tank, single handedly.

 Brakes are fine now, backed off the 2 bolts a little and tested. No heating of hubs or binding and handbrake now holds with 5 clicks on steepest of hills and 3-4 on more gentle inclines. It never managed like this before. Job done and stepping away from tool box.

 

[el 3.2S]

Nobody else got any 986 diy handbrake adjusting experiences?

[½cwt]

Was considering a handbrake adjustment myself, might not now...

 

By the way one of the breakers on ebay has a 986 with same interior colour as yours they are dismantling at the moment.  Might have a replacement cover.

[el 3.2S]

1 hour ago, ½cwt said:

Was considering a handbrake adjustment myself, might not now...

 

By the way one of the breakers on ebay has a 986 with same interior colour as yours they are dismantling at the moment.  Might have a replacement cover.

Thanks for that, will take a look. Am sure it is straight forward enough. Just wondering if I miscounted the number of clicks on the ratchet wheel? Hard to see sometimes if it turns or if the screwdriver slides off.

[myfirstboxster]

Took the car for an MOT which thankfully it passed, and then washed it and tucked it away in the garage , might not get much of a run out in the near future unless the weather is kind .

[Luciano casali]

The most overlooked items when adjusting rear brakes with affect to handbrake number of clicks is the handbrake cable guides in the back of the hubs they are alloy tubes and are easily removed by drifting them out of the hub with cable removed ,these guides either brake or are broken by heavy handed mechanics,I noticed this on my 986 s and now with 4 clicks back on shoes readjusted the cables because you will need to slacken these to get cables out of hub I now now have a 3 click hand brake with reaction on first click ,if you have a problem with getting cable out of hub its because the tubes are bent something or someone has lent on them so cut as much as possible of the tubes with cutters to free the hand brake cable out of hub then look up the hole and get a sharp chisel and hammer and drift the rest out ,replacing for me was ok after cleaning the hole place new tube over the hole with a fully fitting bolt in it and tap gently and the tube will slide in nicely,replace cable adjust shoes then cable and be amazed.By the way no need to remove shoes to free cable look at the adjuster and you will see a pin and a circlip underneath fiddley but you can do this hope this helps it helped me get the perfect handbrake good luck.

[Luciano casali]

Forgot why I came to this page it was to say today I replaced front and rear tuning forks and o/s/f and o/s/r control arms as these latter  two had broken rubber boots and a mot failure ,was surprised I couldn't replace boots as they are sealed in arm cr*p ,if your thinking of changing your tuning forks the rear ones have a captivated nut to the rear so great to remove these and a tip if your car is on axle stands and you find it difficult to get bolt through (tuning forks) don't forget your suspension is down so use your jack and place under the lower control arm jack it up and tuning fork will line up and bolt will fly in ,also if you replace control arms don't tighten rear bolt with suspension down do the same with the jack raise suspension then tighten otherwise you could damage rear bushes I could go on and on and on fan sensors ,reverse switch on top of rear gearbox(cr*p) anyway love my car (girlfriend ,my wife says she's 18 and called Porsche) don't know if this helps but it makes me feel better so good luck.Oh yeah forgot to say when replacing bolt on rear control arm at the rear mark it so it goes back to the same place otherwise you could shift your camber and alignment really is the way to go to check after replacing anyway well I am going now hope this helps.

[el 3.2S]

8 hours ago, Luciano casali said:

The most overlooked items when adjusting rear brakes with affect to handbrake number of clicks is the handbrake cable guides in the back of the hubs they are alloy tubes and are easily removed by drifting them out of the hub with cable removed ,these guides either brake or are broken by heavy handed mechanics,I noticed this on my 986 s and now with 4 clicks back on shoes readjusted the cables because you will need to slacken these to get cables out of hub I now now have a 3 click hand brake with reaction on first click ,if you have a problem with getting cable out of hub its because the tubes are bent something or someone has lent on them so cut as much as possible of the tubes with cutters to free the hand brake cable out of hub then look up the hole and get a sharp chisel and hammer and drift the rest out ,replacing for me was ok after cleaning the hole place new tube over the hole with a fully fitting bolt in it and tap gently and the tube will slide in nicely,replace cable adjust shoes then cable and be amazed.By the way no need to remove shoes to free cable look at the adjuster and you will see a pin and a circlip underneath fiddley but you can do this hope this helps it helped me get the perfect handbrake good luck.

Thanks for the detailed explanation. When I get home next week, I am going to evaluate the handbrake performance again and may well end up removing the wheels and will look into the cable guides that you mention.

[Luciano casali]

Your very welcome

[the baron]

Fitted a new brake light sensor switch, pain in the a$$ to do when you don’t know what your feeling for under the dash, but now I’ve done one it’s dead easy.

[Anker BS]

Got the center console assemble on FUNTOY after changing the shifter bushings,

Got FUNBOX almost ready for hibernation. Drove her until she was nice and warm, added Stabil and then filled the tank and put her in the garage and on the battery maintainer. Need to mouse proof her and change the oil, and filter, change the air filter, check all fluids and add some more air to the tires.

Also did a whole afternoon of tire changing. All season tires off FUNBOX, then on to FUNTOY, Bridgestone RE-71Rs from FUNTOY into winter storage, Sumitomos on to FUNBOX, Summer tires off wife's Chevyy Volt and snow tires on,

Now FUNTOY is ready to go on a lift and have exhaust changed, install technoBrace, check transmission end shifter cable connections and loof for source of tingle from right rear wheel.

A good day!

[the baron]

On 11/9/2018 at 6:50 PM, el 3.2S said:

Since fitting new brake discs and pads the other day, I have found the handbrake to be very poor. It was not great before but it is a lot worse now. I actually thought it may be improved with fitting the new discs? No such luck, so rear wheels off again and followed the procedure on Renntech:

https://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/216-adjusting-parking-brake/

In the process, I unfortunately managed to destroy the hinges on my central storage bin.  Seems one of them had been glued and weakened from before. It sits in place and locks at the front at least as before, so not too concerning.

Was a bit disappointed, as once all back together, the handbrake was barely any better. I then adjusted the 2 screws some more and then more still. The second adjustment was too much as I could feel the handbrake being on all the time and both of the rotors were rather hot after testing. Have since backed off the 2 screws and will investigate further tomorrow.....

The picture below shows the handbrake cable and adjusting screws (along with destroyed cubby lid). The cable mechanism seems a bit lop sided? Should it be like this, or can this possibly indicate pulling more on one side than the other?

 

Speak to Lee at costswold Porsche he has a fix for those hinges, there’s a simple bracket kit that he sold me for pennies that will fix it up a treat, can’t help you with the handbrake though.

[MichaelAC]

Today, I cleaned some bird sh*t off the soft top. I'm waiting for some dry weather and my wife to be available during daylight hours to help me put the hard top on, it'll be easier to clean it off that 😊