Rav Posted April 19, 2018 Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 Morning all. I need your advice please. I used Viola the 986S this morning as the weather is supposed to be near tropical. It was a fun drive with some moments of high spirited driving. However, when i got to work and popped the rear trunk to retrieve ones man bag, i noticed steam in this area. It seemed to be coming from the oil dipstick, top up and water area. Is this a failure of the water top up cap? Together with the steam there was a bit of bubbling noise around this area too. Am i safe to drive home? How can this be fixed? Any help much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bike Loon Posted April 19, 2018 Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 Have a look at the part number on your coolant cap, if it doesnt finish .04 buy a new one, common thing to get a bit of condensation in this area though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rav Posted April 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 Thanks @Bike Loon, i have asked my local OPC for a quote on a new cap - I will check my cap once the car cools down enough to remove the cap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rav Posted April 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 OPC Swindon - part number: 99610644704. £17.27 inc vat. I will go and check my part number now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rav Posted April 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 Just been out in the sunshine - my part number ends in 04 - but looks a little old. I will replace with a new part en-route home this evening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rav Posted April 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 Update. So on the way to the OPC Swindon, the small red warning light at the high end of the coolant temp gauge started flashing. I panicked and drove slowly all the way to the OPC. They kindly informed me that this warning indicated that the collant level was low. I took the opportunity to buy 3 litres of coolant. According the the service advisor there is over 22 litres on coolant in a boxster - sounds a lot!! I also bought another coolant cap at £17.70 inc vat. Total spent - £60. I started the drive home and the warning light didnt flash and the temperature stayed at around the 80 degrees mark. However, when i parked up i noticed liquid under the car. Is this around the coolant over flow pipe? Is the car safe to drive if topped up? I will investigate where this is coming from over the weekend, but am scared!!!! Any help much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyUK Posted April 19, 2018 Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 if you take off both the coolant and oil caps you can prise up the plastic blank plate. Under this is a flip leaver. Open it and top up coolant as normal. It's a bleed valve. Be careful to thread the coolant cap properly. Drive for a few days with the valve open and see how you go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the baron Posted April 19, 2018 Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 I would hazard a guess you have a crack in your plastic expansion tank, it’s a common fault and can be replaced yourself, it’s a bit of a bugger to do but is doable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulQ Posted April 20, 2018 Report Share Posted April 20, 2018 Cracked tank, and or knackered bleeder valve o rings. If your boots dry then probably the latter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rav Posted April 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2018 Thanks all. I conducted some light investigation this evening. Time is not on my side........ My boot is wet. I pulled away the carpet and stuck my hand down the side. Very wet down there. I am suspecting that the coolant tank is cracked as many here have suggested. Swindon OPC has quoted me £212.77 inc vat for the part. I watched this YouTube video - Does anyone know how to repalce the tank? I would like to have a go myself, but cannot find anything on the internet to help me. Any help appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobbie Posted April 20, 2018 Report Share Posted April 20, 2018 This thread on 986.com should help https://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/71684-how-hard-can-coolant-tank-replacement.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyUK Posted April 20, 2018 Report Share Posted April 20, 2018 Pig of a job... The water could still be as a result of an overspill. Fill up with water, strip out the boot carpets, fill a 5ltr container with water and go for a drive...circle your house until up to temp... Check the boot... Mine turned out to be the pump. Now that is new I get a satisfying release of pressure when I take the cap off!☺ glad I didn't rush into the tank swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rav Posted April 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2018 @JohnnyUK thanks. I have just this minute ordered the new part from the OPC, but it can be returned - i hope...... I will do as you say tomorrow. Does the Boxster get up to temp at idle or do i need to drive it? I will strip out the carpets tomorrow and confirm the tank leak by filling and driving. [Basil Fawlty mode] The car sat there all winter and did nothing, the sun comes out and it wets itself [/Basil Fawlty mode] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyUK Posted April 20, 2018 Report Share Posted April 20, 2018 drive it locally. It's a combination of hot water in the tank and whatever pressure builds that opens minute cracks in the tank hence no leak when cold. Thread the cap carefully. If you want to check the pump then strip carpets and all but 2 bolts on access panel behind seats. Get up to temp and with engine running take off plate. Pump will be dry or spitting coolant. Any White chalky residue is dried coolant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rav Posted April 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2018 Sounds in depth @JohnnyUK, but happy to give it a go...... I will try this weekend (time pending) and I will write it up for the benefit of others. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyUK Posted April 20, 2018 Report Share Posted April 20, 2018 in any other motor you would just pop the bonnet! When I first checked mine, by the time I had stripped the carpet and removed the access plate, any water had evaporated on the hot engine block. Hence the white residue... Check it whilst its hot and running... Keep your fingers out of the way!?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyUK Posted April 20, 2018 Report Share Posted April 20, 2018 if your pump is dry but the pulley moves in& out... It's time for a replacement anyhow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rav Posted April 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2018 Thanks @JohnnyUK are there any guides on how to get to that area behind the seats? The last thing i want to do it knacker something trying to get to this area! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyUK Posted April 20, 2018 Report Share Posted April 20, 2018 there are plastic screw plates holding the carpet just under the roll bar. From memory once they are off you peel the carpet up and away from the bulk head behind the seats. The inspection plate has 8-10 10mm bolts. Unscrew these and the plate pulls away. Try it without the engine running then pop the plate back on with 2 bolts before you go for a run.... If your brave you can drive without it! Talk about close to the action though!☺ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the baron Posted April 21, 2018 Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 There is a very good book called (don’t quote me it’s late and I’m not 100%sure) but I think it’s called Boxster 101 projects, it’s a step by step guide of how to do most jobs, replacing the tank is listed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowbos Posted April 21, 2018 Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 2 hours ago, the baron said: There is a very good book called (don’t quote me it’s late and I’m not 100%sure) but I think it’s called Boxster 101 projects, it’s a step by step guide of how to do most jobs, replacing the tank is listed. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Projects-Porsche-Boxster-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760335540 I have this on the shelf in my office. It looks very good but I’m not really a DIY’er to be honest so it’s just a reference for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinewood Posted April 21, 2018 Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 Ordered (with thanks to both gents above) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el 3.2S Posted April 21, 2018 Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 I completed the replacement of my coolant tank last month. It is quite tricky but once you find out the order to do things and from where, it becomes easier. It would be a dawdle the second time round (I hopefully do not put that one to the test though). Whilst in the area anyway, I did some very uncharacteristic preventative maintenance and replaced the water pump, thermostat and belt. Then flushed and filled up the coolant system with Porsche coolant. I got my info for the tank replacement job from various sources - mostly online. I have the book that you have just purchased but found this thread below, to be the best source of information. https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=1412662 I was changing the transmission fluid anyway, so had a lot of the panels etc removed from the underside. This likely made access a little easier. Still tricky though. I have some further pics etc in my running report thread updated recently. Basically, with help of long reach hose clamp removers I reached up from the underside and removed the one hose clamp from this direction (when attempting to put this one back on at the end of the job I managed to destroy my newly purchased long reach tool and ended up putting a jubilee clip on instead). The worst bit was removing the partly fused on hose from the metal pipe (once the clamp was off) that it was attached to. This pipe is shown in my thread (from underside) and also the short rubber hose which is connected to the tank, is shown in the pics in the PH thread in link above. I then went in from the engine (roof in service mode) and disconnected the oil filler pipe from the engine side. This then enabled me to pull the tank and manifold sufficiently far enough (from the boot) to reach the hose connections (normally on the engine side). I used 45 degree long nose pliers for this. It is really a 3 pronged attack which is needed - coming in from all sides. Of course there are many other associated jobs but these were the key bits which made the difference to me getting the job done. I just bought a non OEM tank, so will see how that goes. The water pump is the same as the standard one and has a plastic impeller and the thermostat is a cool running variety. Hope this helps a little. Happy to offer any further advive if needed, whilst still relatively fresh in my mind. I am no mechanic and have pretty basic knowledge and tools - so nobody should fear not being able to manage this job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the baron Posted April 21, 2018 Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 Good write up, thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ooid Posted April 21, 2018 Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 You need to check the tank and oil to see if there is intermix. My car was 2000 too and we have found small intermix, after waterpump failure in a busy traffic day. (all coolant burped itself suddenly) You are very luck if it is only cracked tank issue, according to many resources mostly 2000-2001 cars (both 996 & 986) suffer from these, sadly. http://flat6innovations.com/index.php/services/intermixed-oil-and-coolant-repairs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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