Jump to content

Nooo.....It happens in 3's


MAC99V

Recommended Posts

OK, so not the best of my days, hoping someone may be able to assist with their thoughts.....

Started the day by wishing to install the spacers i'd been purchased, brace slipped of the wheel twice digging into the alloy, so now in need to repair as the alloys were perfect. Car now booked in to have them fitted at my local tyre place ensuring no more damage from my far fingers and cr*p brace....

Just got back from a quick shop, as i got into the car, the light caught the base of the doors carpet (on the storage bin) rubbed my hand along the base and the carpet was dripping wet, passenger side dry as anything, but my drivers door soaked? I've never had any issues (that I've noticed) any thoughts please?....

Got back home, shut seat belt buckle in door, thankfully no damage, no more driving for me tonight, bad omen....

Any suggestions greatly appreciated, part from knowing how to close a door properly....Thanks All.

M

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’ve just had a similar door seal incident - as well as membrane check the water isn’t getting in the inside via the seal along the side of the windscreen where the door window fits. See my most recent post here

Click me ....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The water from the door carpet on mine made its way over the plastic sill cover and ended the floor carpet.  It wasn’t wet on top.  But SOAKED underneath.  
 

for me it was a seat out job and lifted the carpet to dry it with a small heater and a dehumidifier.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, Nobbie said:

Sounds like the membrane in the door has failed. Have you had cause to remove the door trim recently?

Hi Nobbie, yes the door card was removed ( I think) as i had some Alcantara interior trim work done at Design LS, that was a good few months back, so could be the issue, many thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, red rocket said:

Bad luck! Sounds like the membrane on the door has failed or the seal. Plenty of threads on this if you search including some very recent.

cheers red rocket. Will search and look into. thx.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, Boxob said:

As above and buy yourself a decent socket set or similar to remove the wheel bolts!  

and even more annoying now, forgot i had a set in the shed, never once used, thx for the reminder !!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, sa utah said:

Recently done both of my door membranes.  Don’t delay if it’s the passenger side.  Expensive electronics under the passenger seat !  

Big bucks sa utah? think it may be worth getting mine done if its not a case of being installed correctly after interior work, thx....

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I stripped  the door down and undid the screws holding the metal inner panel / membrane then removed the disintegrated foam gasket , cleaned up with solvent cleaner, dried and then put some wedges in to keep the inner panel away from the door and carefully ran a good bead of sealant in its place.  Removed the wedges and I then tightened up the screws so the sealant was compressed.  I then a a belt and braces idea ran more sealant along the bottom edge.  I was fitting new speakers so it was ideal to do both jobs. 
 

Make sure you get 18 new door trim clips as the original ones will break.  Get them form an OPC as the Amazon / Ebay ones don’t work. They are cheap anyway from an OPC 

we’ve had some really bad rain and the car is totally dry now.  No condensation on the windows and no wet door carpets or passenger footwell which is where the water ended up on mine. 
 

Total cost excluding the speakers was circa £20.00 for clips and sealant.   Took me 4 hrs including fitting the speakers.  
 

make sure you lift the carpet Up and dry it out as it won’t dry on it’s own.   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All too easy to damage a wheel nut or brace due to side loads. A two lever type (X) is better as applying the torque from both sides keeps it straight. Or support the pivot point of the brace with an axle stand. Or even use a rattle gun to undo.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, DaveEFI said:

All too easy to damage a wheel nut or brace due to side loads. A two lever type (X) is better as applying the torque from both sides keeps it straight. Or support the pivot point of the brace with an axle stand. Or even use a rattle gun to undo.

It was the x type brace, was so tight i was standing on it and it slipped away....a number of times, then decided to give up before i did even more damage....Cringeworthy....I was gutted, still am, unless i can get a really good repair. Cheers, M

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Before i try the membrane route....decided for a drive out today, roof down. Before i got into the car, noticed the roof fabric had not been sitting in it's plastic guide trim, was sitting externally. First thoughts were, thats where the water ingress is, but the fabric was pulled so tight water running down would have been outside the car. I've now..with roof closed, tucked it into its channel as it was closing, if the carpet dries, that would have been the issue.....

So, the new issue would be, is there anyway of tightening the fabric  so that it stays, or pulls into its plastic channel when closing?....

Cheers again all.

M

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, MAC99V said:

Before i try the membrane route....decided for a drive out today, roof down. Before i got into the car, noticed the roof fabric had not been sitting in it's plastic guide trim, was sitting externally. First thoughts were, thats where the water ingress is, but the fabric was pulled so tight water running down would have been outside the car. I've now..with roof closed, tucked it into its channel as it was closing, if the carpet dries, that would have been the issue.....

So, the new issue would be, is there anyway of tightening the fabric  so that it stays, or pulls into its plastic channel when closing?....

Cheers again all.

M

You will need to reposition or replace the elastic that pulls it tight. Easy and easier if you know how to sew (badges on jumpers, not operating a hemming machine). Search here. 

 

(EDIT - hemming, not gemming; damned iPhones...)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, sa utah said:

I stripped  the door down and undid the screws holding the metal inner panel / membrane then removed the disintegrated foam gasket , cleaned up with solvent cleaner, dried and then put some wedges in to keep the inner panel away from the door and carefully ran a good bead of sealant in its place.  Removed the wedges and I then tightened up the screws so the sealant was compressed.  I then a a belt and braces idea ran more sealant along the bottom edge.  I was fitting new speakers so it was ideal to do both jobs. 
 

Make sure you get 18 new door trim clips as the original ones will break.  Get them form an OPC as the Amazon / Ebay ones don’t work. They are cheap anyway from an OPC 

we’ve had some really bad rain and the car is totally dry now.  No condensation on the windows and no wet door carpets or passenger footwell which is where the water ended up on mine. 
 

Total cost excluding the speakers was circa £20.00 for clips and sealant.   Took me 4 hrs including fitting the speakers.  
 

make sure you lift the carpet Up and dry it out as it won’t dry on it’s own.   

Which sealant did you use? Any chance of a linky 👍

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, Menoporsche said:

You will need to reposition or replace the elastic that pulls it tight. Easy and easier if you know how to sew (badges on jumpers, not operating a gemming machine). Search here. 

may have to ask the wife to help, otherwise i'll try and tackle it with a nailgun !! Cheers, M

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...