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PSE Actuator snapped :(


Withy

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Despite using some high temp lubricant on a sticky actuator, I seem to have suffered a breakage in the mechanism

Anyone know if these parts are available separately, or does it mean significant replacement (although I think it's stuck in loud mode which I'm generally OK with)

 

 

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1 hour ago, alank said:

Interesting as all I’ve ever heard is once broken unless you  carried out a DIY fix it was a replacement job which I’ve always thought to be crazy. So this suggests it is indeed a possibility to just replace a very common problem part on PSE systems 👍

Edited by Ringmaster999
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So a 911 but same principal http://www.911uk.com/viewtopic.php?p=906723

I seem to remember someone saying that although the bits were "cheap" it involved surgery on the exhaust system to replace on a Box ? 

Maybe @daz05 can confirm if I'm talking through my tailpipe ? 

Edited by iborguk
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1 hour ago, Withy said:

Yes I think that is perfect! Thanks a lot

I need to see a close up of the offending item to establish what to do here but I think a fabricator should be able to fix this quite easily.

 

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It does look ‘weldable’ you can see that the rod which comes out has sheared off the small ball which spins the valve.

I am thinking the cheap part=expensive labour, but it’s so accessible I might have a go myself (initially, until I cry and then pay someone!)

BustBust

 

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Why has it failed though, has the valve jammed or the ball joint on the value maybe??  It does look like dropping the box off would be necessary to change the vacuum actuator unless there is enough space above to feed it out/in with the length of the rod.  As ever try your OPC for the best price, it is item 6 on drawing 202-005 of the parts cat 991.111.381.02, although there is an alternative listed as 991.111.835.01 so worth a check with you OPC just in case.

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17 minutes ago, GTSMarky said:

Looks like a pretty standard ball joint fitment to me.  They usually just thread on..

Looks like it is the threaded end that has sheared though.

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31 minutes ago, GTSMarky said:

Looks like a pretty standard ball joint fitment to me.  They usually just thread on..

This will be like the plastic roof ball joints, can anyone find one for sale separate from the vacuum actuator. 

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Can you actually move the valve by hand ( you should be able to), if not then the flap has seized in the exhaust.  If you can then it’s a case of trying to change the ball end. im not sure why that would shear like that unless the flap was extremely stiff or seized.

 The actuators were available from a few places:

https://www.eurospares.co.uk/Porsche/Boxster_981/Boxster_981_(2012)/PartDiagrams/202-005/EXHAUST_SYSTEM
 

..but I don’t know anywhere that provides the ball end separately.  
 

it you are under warranty they will probably replace the whole exhaust for you (my whole exhaust was replaced last year.)

 

Edited by Greenman
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47 minutes ago, GTSMarky said:

This sort of thing..

 

Gas Strut Rod End 90 Degree Angle Ball Joint M5 M6 M8 M10 M12 BZP Steel x2 | eBay

I make left/right hand threaded rods for bike gear changes/quickshifters etc & have left/right hand ends in the workshop..Oh and left hand threads/dies too..

Good find (if the flap isn’t actually seized).

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1 hour ago, Greenman said:

Can you actually move the valve by hand ( you should be able to), if not then the flap has seized in the exhaust.  If you can then it’s a case of trying to change the ball end. im not sure why that would shear like that unless the flap was extremely stiff or seized.

 The actuators were available from a few places:

https://www.eurospares.co.uk/Porsche/Boxster_981/Boxster_981_(2012)/PartDiagrams/202-005/EXHAUST_SYSTEM
 

..but I don’t know anywhere that provides the ball end separately.  
 

it you are under warranty they will probably replace the whole exhaust for you (my whole exhaust was replaced last year.)

 

Out of warranty :(

the flap does move but it was sticky before I applied high temp wd40 silicone stuff, so I think it’s been stressed for a while and as I was out popping and cracking a bit on Saturday it maybe just gave up the ghost. I will check if it’s moving freely - should get some time tomorrow to take a good look.

 

@Greenman also interested if your replacement exhaust is louder than previous. I remember you saying at one of the borders meets that you thought that yours was quieter than some others.

Edited by Withy
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Hmm. Had a look. Valve is sticky. First part of movement is ok, when the push rod is extended then it becomes stuck and needs a good amount of force to move it back. I noticed the other day a loud ‘Ping’ which just have been when the spring released and it went back to resting position. So not sure a ball joint or actuator will sort this.. need to get the root cause of the sticking sorted

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There seems to be a few ways these can fail.

1. The actuator fails,  these can be replaced separately though Porsche don’t seem to publisize  the fact.  It looks as though your actuator works fine though.

2. Some issue with the vacuum solenoid/pipe work.  Daz had this issue and his excellent video covers the solution, replacement parts available.

3. the actual valve itself seizes. I assume these are somewhat similar to throttle body or choke valves, obviously the exhaust is subject to temperature extremes, carbon deposits and acidic attach from exhaust emissions so it seams that over time they can just seize up.    
In this case unless you can free it up (some people do have success with this) then an exhaust replacement is the only solution.
☹️

 

 

 

 

Edited by Greenman
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1 hour ago, Withy said:

interested if your replacement exhaust is louder than previous. I remember you saying at one of the borders meets that you thought that yours was quieter than some others.

Yes my replacement is quite a bit louder,  I do wonder if one of the flaps was permanently  closed on my previous exhaust?.  The flaps did move externally ( until they didn’t) but no guarantee that nothing has broken internally I guess. 
 

I wonder if the flaps can be accessed via a borescope from the tailpipes? 

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They seize up because of rust I think, the car produces water on cold start and if you don't drive it and dry it out, it sits around the valve mech, so if you have PSE don't cold start and park up for an extended period because you will be asking for trouble.

I wonder how many owners will wash the car and then park up in the garage until the following weekend. 

When my first valve went it locked itself open but it definitely didn't bark in the same way. The engine management must know something is up via the open close procedure at the beginning.

Edited by daz05
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