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PSE Repair - Can you convert a standard exhaust?


Jakeb

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No, not buy a new one and fitting it, but can you hack a std one into a PSE?

I don't actually think it is too difficult as the exhausts are essentially the same, all you need is a bit of stainless, a valve and 90 degree pipe.

Any way I am going to find out as I need to fix mine and I have bought a std exhaust to cut up......

 

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The challenge is to fix this by cutting the skin off the standard exhaust. The bypass valve essentially connects the cat straight to the tailpipe from what i can work out.

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Came with some tailpipes which fixes that issue as well :)

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Toying with welding a nut on the pse arm to make it easier to free off if they get stiff

Edited by Jakeb
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How it the PSE works

Normally, with the valve shut, exhaust gas flows in from the grid on the right having passed out of a perforated pipe in what is effectively the muffler above it. On bypass, the tube on the left comes into play and most of the gas goes straight through and out the tail pipe.

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The perforated tube allows some of the gas to to equalise with the other box via the other pipe which runs between the two boxes

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Not sure i will win any panel beating awards but it is looking a lot straighter. I plan to stitch in a repair panel from the standard exhaust

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Valves are removing freely but the "good" arm broke off after i gave it a bit of heat, so that is two arms to make....

 

Edited by Jakeb
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A bit of "spinning around"

Cut up the donor

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Would need a fair bit of reworking on the internals to make the same as the pse

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Although this pic from planet 9 suggests the Carnewal mod is quite easy if you are handy with a welder. The seams on this just grind off so relatively easy to split in half

"Here is a photo of the stock 981 non-PSE DIY hack for fraction of the cost.
I personally listened to Hack B and great improvement than stock but still not as loud as my PSE"

 

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Needs a bit of fettling and some cleaning up but you can see what i am aiming for

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Next job to make a couple of these which just snapped off

AMWts8DHiC0lF-ExqduCOXd4tOQb-f6B9PyclJXy

 

 

 

Edited by Jakeb
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  • 9 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Where did you source the 'ball on the stick' from please? My PSe has a broken arm, similair to yours. It's welded up ok, exhaust working fine, but a new a tab, c/w the ball on a stick would be helpful in future repair.

 

 

 

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Just had a  Carnewal  replacement on mine and there is no evidence of splitting the box just the pipe from the manifold to the back box has new welds And having several of these with a valve, spent more time underneath freeing them off personally forget valves go down the Carnewal , mine sounds great without all the hassle maintaining … just saying !

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7 minutes ago, bally4563 said:

Just had a  Carnewal  replacement on mine and there is no evidence of splitting the box just the pipe from the manifold to the back box has new welds And having several of these with a valve, spent more time underneath freeing them off personally forget valves go down the Carnewal , mine sounds great without all the hassle maintaining … just saying !

Can you install the PSE function on your car i.e having the button & software without having the vacuum lines/valves. Thus getting the crackles & pops? 

 

If so I feel you would have the best of both worlds. 

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9 hours ago, Stuart21UK said:

doesn't the Sport button do that on its own?

It doesn't seem so I remember @villaman had a 981S that had Carnewal but no PSE function and his car sounded good but no crackles and pops like other cars that day. I assumed that is something that gets installed with PSE. 

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12 hours ago, andygo said:

Where did you source the 'ball on the stick' from please? My PSE has a broken arm, similair to yours. It's welded up ok, exhaust working fine, but a new a tab, c/w the ball on a stick would be helpful in future repair.

The "ball and stick" is part of the actuator. I have a spare in the shed somewhere that I bought but didn't need as mine had failed elsewhere.  Think I paid about £35 for it, I can dig it out and post for the same.

 

 

 

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8 hours ago, Cocky said:

It doesn't seem so I remember @villaman had a 981S that had Carnewal but no PSE function and his car sounded good but no crackles and pops like other cars that day. I assumed that is something that gets installed with PSE. 

Howdy....Had a Carnewal fitted to my old 981...i think it lasted about 2 months before i bit the bullet and had the PSE fitted at CPS as it was better than stock but not a patch on the PSE.

@Lonewolf has also had one retro fitted at CPS.

Carnewal is passive system without any electronic vacum control.

The overrun crackles and pops cannot be achieved with hardware alone, as the PSE requires an ECU / Map update on PIWIS to "over fuel". 

Edited by villaman
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These are the balls - i made the arms out of some stainless bar with a 5mm threaded hole for the ball and I think it was around 9mm to sit on the exhaust. Welded both the ball and the bracket with a TIG and stainless rod

The balls are abit taller than the originals but angled the bracket down slightly to take into account

https://www.sgs-engineering.com/catalog/product/view/id/1661/s/x1-ball-extension/

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The trick to freeing the arms off is extreme heat to both side of the pivot and then gently wiggling it with a pair of mole grips as it cools. When they are very hot it will all be seized solid - for example, if you weld a bit of bar to the pivot, dont expect it to move until it starts to cool as it just expands in the collar. There is pretty much 90 degrees of movement in the lever.

Putting some sort of lubrication in there is not going to do a lot - its about getting it moving so that the rust is worn away. I suspect spraying something like copper grease will just attract cr*p to seize it up again

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Indeed

However don't go sticking pliers etc on the existing levers as they are made of cheese and will break like the pic Andygo posted. I have also seen videos of people lubricating the vacuum actuators - not sure what this would do.

Taking the exhaust off the car and setting them upside down with loads of wd40 can help to initially free them off - you should me able to move them really easily just with your finger (eg no force)

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17 minutes ago, Jakeb said:

Indeed

However don't go sticking pliers etc on the existing levers as they are made of cheese and will break like the pic Andygo posted. I have also seen videos of people lubricating the vacuum actuators - not sure what this would do.

Taking the exhaust off the car and setting them upside down with loads of wd40 can help to initially free them off - you should me able to move them really easily just with your finger (eg no force)

My valves have always been free as far as I'm aware, one of the first things I checked after I bought the car. I can only put the lever breaking as down to vibration really. I'm hoping the OPC will honour the warranty now the PSE's are back in stock.

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