Recommended discs and pads

[Spinjim]

Just done a bit of a long tour to Norway and managed to cook the brakes, slight judder at speed under braking. Easily done when your hitting 140 on the German autobahn. 
had them done a few years back so probably need doing. 
 

Any recommendations 

Jim

[Madlil]

I believe OEM brands are pagid for discs and textar for pads - I always go OEM but think a lot of Porsche drivers go for Brembo. I’m sure someone better qualified than me will be able to advise on here….

[daz05]

Discs are discs but the Porsche pads have never given me any hassle. The aftermarket ones are not usually the same and lead to issues like like judder etc when worked hard. Not always the case but why risk it.

[Terryg]

I just fitted MTEC discs, I ordered the pads at the same time and they are Mintex, so far so good and the Porsche specialist who serviced the car last week didn't mention any issues. With regard to problems with non OEM pads, it is advisable to "dress" the pad with a file and make sure it moves easy within the caliper. As far as I know. it is a less of a problem on Porsches because there is not as much contact between pad and caliper body but I stand to be corrected.

[Greenman]

I always thought (via research when I first got the car) that the initial disk manufacturer was SEBRO and pads Textar.  I am due to change mine soon I was going to go down this route.  Though the official pads from Porsche are only about £30 more than the Textar.   However full parts only for front pads/disks from Porsche is around £610

 

[fewtrees]

On 6/18/2023 at 9:24 PM, daz05 said:

Discs are discs…

Not true, you have basic discs without holes and these don’t let build up between the disc and pad surface escape quickly so you get more brake fade.

Drilled - allow for gasses to escape and these are standard on the Boxster..

There are “slotted” which clean the pads better and will wear a pad more quickly but they do perform better.

There are fully floating where the friction face is only supported by the hub but not the same piece of metal and is good for maintaining performance with more braking especially where heat is an issue.

….but are all “drilled” discs the same?
 

Nope as the material used will have different friction coefficients OR the cooling vanes between the faces is different which makes a disc run hotter/cooler.. Important to combat fade as a lot of pads change friction performance with heat ie fade..

The real question is how much braking performance do you need/want and how often?

Edited July 7, 2023 by fewtrees
:-)

[daz05]

@fewtrees you've taken this way too far.

 

 

 

[fewtrees]

7 hours ago, daz05 said:

@fewtrees you've taken this way too far.

I don't think so, it's the reason there are so many choices, we don't all drive the same and want the same things..

[daz05]

1 hour ago, fewtrees said:

I don't think so, it's the reason there are so many choices, we don't all drive the same and want the same things..

Perhaps you could provide a recommendation for Jim, rather than trying to be critical of what others put forward.

I'll stand by my answer considering the context as provided in the OP, but I'd be happy to hear all.about your views regarding the impact of lines, fluid and cooling ducts in a separate thread 👍

 

 

 

 

 

[fewtrees]

8 hours ago, daz05 said:

Perhaps you could provide a recommendation for Jim, rather than trying to be critical of what others put forward.

I'll stand by my answer considering the context as provided in the OP, but I'd be happy to hear all.about your views regarding the impact of lines, fluid and cooling ducts in a separate thread 👍

 

@Spinjim If there’s any advice it would be to avoid the Brembo range of either discs or pads especially when they seem good value. There’s a lot of money going for the brand name and I’ve tried them and cooked them just like you. You get what you pay for so I invested plenty, but my discs and pads are not daily driver choices. 

Some more advice would be to change parts on both axles if you significantly/adversely change braking performance. This is because your brake balance is fixed between front and rear so braking in this condition often means locking up the front or rear without the right weight distribution. Please make sure it’s not the rear!

Lines and fluid I have changed so can give feedback on those. Ducts I haven’t, so I wouldn’t comment.

@daz05 please don’t take anything personal, there’s none intended.

[moonshine]

For one piece disks, I thought drilled disks were more prone to cracks propagating from the drill holes, and the 'best' option was slotted disks that let the hot gases vent out from between the disk and pad 

[½cwt]

140 on Autobahn, impressive!  What many forget is that braking energy squares with speed, so 100 down to 70 is the same energy through the brakes as 70 down to 0 and how often do you do a full stop from 70 to 0?  Also 140 down to 100 is same as 100 to 0.  Any brake system designed for 'normal' road use is going to struggle doing hat too often in quick succession.  Pretty much any brakes can be cooked with extreme use (high speed road or track work particularly will do it) so you need to specify for your intended used.  For 99% of us 99% of the time the usual Brembo (same comment re marketing above could be extended to Michelin tyres, but they certainly driver the development of brakes), Sebro, Pagid, Textar, Mintex, Bosch or what ever OEM equivalent discs will do the job and very well indeed on a Boxster.  Upgraded pads will help improve the friction, but this only serves to concentrate the brake temp build up and then the discs start to suffer as well as the pads.

So unless you are looking at a track or autobahn focused car, regular discs and pads will be more cost effective even if by occasional extreme use you shorten the life of some components.  That's the price of performance.

For reference I know @Patt has done some interesting upgrades to his Boxsters using original Porsche parts from the 911 range.

Edited July 10, 2023 by ½cwt

[Patt]

juddering is usually just a bit of pad material build up that can be worn away whilst driving.

Brake fluid is very important for the more spirited driving - install a more race oriented fluid such as Ate200 that has a higher boiling point.

 

[Tony Daniel]

I picked up 2 rear Pagid discs on offer at Halfords last month for £30 a piece! So far they have done 2 track days without any problem apart from going blue.

Front discs & pads and rear pads are again Pagid from Euro car parts. One of the ECP rear wear sensor melted but I've had that with the Porsche ones

[Menoporsche]

Suggestion for braided hoses while you are in there. Look around they can be £100 the set IIRC. 

[½cwt]

1 hour ago, Menoporsche said:

Suggestion for braided hoses while you are in there. Look around they can be £100 the set IIRC. 

Goodridge braided hoses cost me £80.  They certainly make for a firmer pedal feel.