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Porsche Boxster Virgin


Porschevirgin1968

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Tips can be converted to flappy paddle changers. Doesn’t make the change faster but several don’t like the buttons. 
 

For all, try putting your foot down at 1400 revs, note the difference. (Over 5000 rpm there isn’t much).  Note how much you need to change gear to keep it responsive. 

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1 hour ago, Menoporsche said:

Tips can be converted to flappy paddle changers. Doesn’t make the change faster but several don’t like the buttons. 
 

For all, try putting your foot down at 1400 revs, note the difference. (Over 5000 rpm there isn’t much).  Note how much you need to change gear to keep it responsive. 

Or not change gear so much to keep it responsive in the 3.2...  15% more torque, 250 rpm lower in the rev range and 6 speeds to use it across.  Much closer to the 3 litre you had in the Z4.

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3 minutes ago, Porschevirgin1968 said:

Well, I may have found the one. Boxster S 3.2, 22 year old had new engine in 2006 Porsche stamped in the book. New engine has done it 60k car has done 122k miles. Had a drive, clutch is very stiff and heavy but plenty bite. I speed box. 

 

https://www.motors.co.uk/car-67714198/?i=2&m=sl

Welcome!  Looks good and I like the Lapis Blue with Savanah interior combo. 

Main thing is drive it and then throw up any questions on here, but for starters, a heavy clutch could be a failed assister spring on the clutch pedal as the clutch should not be very heavy although needs a bit more of a prod than most daily drivers, so may be worth a question back to the supplying dealer.  Heavier than normal brakes is what most people notice, but this is standard.

 

 Out of curiosity, as I've followed the IMS bearing issue on these cars, which could well be why it has had a new engine, what is the engine number on the motor that Porsche supplied?  I ask to help people in future identify replacement engines and add to the pool of knowledge.

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6 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Welcome!  Looks good and I like the Lapis Blue with Savanah interior combo. 

Main thing is drive it and then throw up any questions on here, but for starters, a heavy clutch could be a failed assister spring on the clutch pedal as the clutch should not be very heavy although needs a bit more of a prod than most daily drivers, so may be worth a question back to the supplying dealer.  Heavier than normal brakes is what most people notice, but this is standard.

 

 Out of curiosity, as I've followed the IMS bearing issue on these cars, which could well be why it has had a new engine, what is the engine number on the motor that Porsche supplied?  I ask to help people in future identify replacement engines and add to the pool of knowledge.

I'm taking the boss back to see the car, where will I find the engine number, if it was fitted in 2006 need I worry about the IMS? 

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2 minutes ago, Porschevirgin1968 said:

I'm taking the boss back to see the car, where will I find the engine number, if it was fitted in 2006 need I worry about the IMS? 

There shouldn't be an IMS issue, general school of though is if it was going to go it would have by now.

For the engine number, it is on the side of the engine when viewed from below on the right hand side stamped on a flat area just above where the rearmost sump bolt is situated, or when you get it on the V5C which is easier to look up, as long as it was notified to DVLA.

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No heated seats? And strictly I doubt it has PSM, I think that name came in with the 987? Might be wrong. There's a difference between PSM and the earlier Traction Control.  I might be wrong. 

I really hope it has had some suspension parts replaced already. If not, that's where a grand of yours is going next!

Anyway, you've seen a few. Good luck with it.

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On 7/9/2023 at 1:12 PM, Porschevirgin1968 said:

Well, seen a couple now, still like the first one. Lacking in service history for past 4 years. 

Apologies, typo, I really should wear my glasses more, 3 I meant. Lol. 

I’ve looked at five this last week and four have big gaps in the service history.

Not necessarily done a lot of miles which could be the reason, that and I think a lot of people buy these and spin around for a year or so and try not to spend any money.

 I’m looking at one tomorrow, full main dealer history up until July 2012 at 59k  then nothing but MOT’s up to now at 74k

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5 minutes ago, Gunscrossed said:

I’ve looked at five this last week and four have big gaps in the service history.

Not necessarily done a lot of miles which could be the reason, that and I think a lot of people buy these and spin around for a year or so and try not to spend any money.

 I’m looking at one tomorrow, full main dealer history up until July 2012 at 59k  then nothing but MOT’s up to now at 74k

It's got advisories for front lower suspension arms and ball joints on both sides. That was last mot in May. 

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1 hour ago, Menoporsche said:

I think the engine number has one specific letter different from normal to actually signify it's a replacement engine. Can't remember which.

I believe there may be an X in there somewhere but that was also used as the 3rd character for 1999 model year engines. so that's what I'm hoping to find out.  A 2006 supplied replacement motor in a 2001 car could reveal some interesting info.

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Just now, Porschevirgin1968 said:

It's got advisories for front lower suspension arms and ball joints on both sides. That was last mot in May. 

Most need suspension work.  It is expensive to do in one hit but the pay off is great.  See @fizz's recent post about his new Koni Special Active OE equivalent shocks

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Just now, ½cwt said:

I believe there may be an X in there somewhere but that was also used as the 3rd character for 1999 model year engines. so that's what I'm hoping to find out.  A 2006 supplied replacement motor in a 2001 car could reveal some interesting info.

I've just taken my wife to view the car, the engine was replaced in 2008 not 2006 as I first thought. 

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Just now, Porschevirgin1968 said:

I've just taken my wife to view the car, the engine was replaced in 2008 not 2006 as I first thought. 

Should still be informative.

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1 hour ago, Porschevirgin1968 said:

Lowest he will come down to it 6.8k going to haggle. For advisories to be done, if not will walk away. He won't come down anymore. 

So you are prepared, a full suspension rebuild (arms, links bump stops and top mounts even without springs and shocks will set you back £500-600 in parts alone.  Springs and shocks as well will double it and if the shocks are 22 years old, they will likely benefit from being renewed.  Check the a/c runs cold too.

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14 hours ago, ½cwt said:

So you are prepared, a full suspension rebuild (arms, links bump stops and top mounts even without springs and shocks will set you back £500-600 in parts alone.  Springs and shocks as well will double it and if the shocks are 22 years old, they will likely benefit from being renewed.  Check the a/c runs cold too.

Well spoke to dealer, he said they are only advisories and it would not cost that much to do the repairs, asked to do the repairs then a renegotiate the price, reply, someone else will buy it at that price. Something not right! 

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4 minutes ago, Porschevirgin1968 said:

Well spoke to dealer, he said they are only advisories and it would not cost that much to do the repairs, asked to do the repairs then a renegotiate the price, reply, someone else will buy it at that price. Something not right! 

Time to walk.

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walk away - plenty more out there

I've learned to buy the owner, not the car....

 

I looked at several before paying perhaps slightly over the odds privately for the right car as it was clear the owner looked after with with annual service despite only 2k miles in 7 years...

Edited by greenman986s
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16 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Most need suspension work.  It is expensive to do in one hit but the pay off is great.  See @fizz's recent post about his new Koni Special Active OE equivalent shocks

Doing mine at the moment. 

Koni Special Actives waiting to go on.

Ended up having to do front strut top mounts and bearings as they were shot, one bearing had been fitted with a bearing race missing so the balls were running on the plastic cap!

Bolts that were seized and needed cutting out, smaller ones that needed drilling and Helicoils fitted, it can be a long, and at times frustrating task if doing it yourself, and no doubt expensive if paying someone else to do it.

The sense of satisfaction is worth it though, the car will drive as it should and I've learned new things. 

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7 minutes ago, Everywhen said:

Doing mine at the moment. 

Koni Special Actives waiting to go on.

Ended up having to do front strut top mounts and bearings as they were shot, one bearing had been fitted with a bearing race missing so the balls were running on the plastic cap!

Bolts that were seized and needed cutting out, smaller ones that needed drilling and Helicoils fitted, it can be a long, and at times frustrating task if doing it yourself, and no doubt expensive if paying someone else to do it.

The sense of satisfaction is worth it though, the car will drive as it should and I've learned new things. 

Problem is this is a minimum of £1400 (DIY) for the full suspension rebuild on top of a £6K to £7k purchase.  The car needs to be a long term proposition not just a couple of summers for some fun to ensure it is worthwhile and not a money pit.

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