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front coolant leak


Jow

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Ive got a coolant leak coming from the wheel arch area it seems like a fairly common problem. 

Has anyone done this job before, is it difficult, should i do the aluminium pipe at the same time? 

any links to any how to's for this one? 

 

thanks 

craig 

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Need to source the leak first.

Could just be one pipe / joint.

Had this happen on my 987.2 and replaced one coolant pipe - very easy via driver wheel arch. Pipe was £26 from OPC. 

Lots of how to videos on the Web.

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Just in the process of renewing all my pipes and hoses.

had a drip on one joint and corrosion showing around the remainder. When dismantling, (if you can separate some hoses from the corroded, aluminium pipes) you will find that, unless you’re very lucky, it is best to renew the whole lot. Not a cheap job, around £700 in parts.

I am renewing mine, using a 2 Post a lift and the job is still a pain.

Not to be attempted unless you are confident, equipped and have at the very least some high axle stands

Should finish mine today if all goes to plan.

At least once it is done, there should be no further worries.

If I renewed just one pipe I would be constantly worried that another will fail.

my daughter’s 2.7 failed, she took no heed of the red warning message, stating low coolant, and lunched the engine on the M5! Be warned. Saying that, most people would probably pull over and check the coolant level, not my daughter.

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Yep sure have , it’s one of those jobs you have to go all in, I’ve replaced pipes in the past, where I’ve managed to collapse the joint in and replace the pipe. However all you are doing is putting off the real job. I don’t drop the subframe perce I lower it down on stud iron ( replace the bolts with stud iron) and lower down mitigates issues with trying to realign the subframe bolts up and whacking the alignment out, 100 mm is enough to gain access , even the naughty pipe clamps.

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Had it done on mine and it was around £700 from a local garage i trust (VW/Audi specialist but works on everything) - its really not the sort of job i have the tools/ability to do myself and would rather it be done properly than risk failure as described above

 

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I dropped, (lowered) the front subframe about 4” using a transmission jack

i renewed all the pipes and hoses right back to the engine including the expensive black plastic T sections.

judging by the condition of the pipe flanges which were corroded in to the flanges I would recommend doing the lot.

My 987 is in pretty much pristine condition without any rust on underbody parts, (exhaust aside) yet all the pipe work and collars were shot!

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On 7/30/2023 at 6:34 PM, Jow said:

Ive got a coolant leak coming from the wheel arch area it seems like a fairly common problem. 

Has anyone done this job before, is it difficult, should i do the aluminium pipe at the same time? 

any links to any how to's for this one? 

 

thanks 

craig 

Step by step instructions 

Mine's been treated with Waxoyl for the last couple of years but I plan to DIY, using this video, in due course.

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thanks for all the replies really appreciate it.

 

ive seen a couple of people mention to go to OPC to buy the bits, as I've not done this before do you just phone them up or pop in? 

its a shame someone hasn't come up with a rubber replacement for that alu bit! 

 

another question, is there a way to pressure test the front end of the system without it being hot? 

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45 minutes ago, Jow said:

thanks for all the replies really appreciate it.

 

ive seen a couple of people mention to go to OPC to buy the bits, as I've not done this before do you just phone them up or pop in? 

If you phone & ask for the parts dept, they'll be happy to order any parts they don't have in stock.

If you just drop by, you get to wander around and gaze at all the Pork. You'll find the dealers very friendly. They don't only care about the 100K + sales.

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Quite a few OPCs will ask for payment with order as a number have been stung getting parts for older models and they buyer then vanishing when they realise how much the parts cost.  If you visit, take your V5 with you and get signed up to Classic Porsche while you are there.

The vast majority of genuine Porsche parts that don't have pattern part equivalents are cheapest from an OPC, ask for 10% discount too if it is not offered, you'll usually get it with no quibble.

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1 hour ago, ½cwt said:

ask for 10% discount too if it is not offered, you'll usually get it with no quibble

OPC local to me seem to have a threshold for the “ask and you will receive” discount.  Got it on things less than about 50 quid (including merchandise like T-shirts and martini logoed tumblers etc ) but was asked for membership number for a few more expensive bits. PCGB get 10% at all opc , tipec seem to be more localised but bith my local one’s honour it.  And tipec is £60 for two years - not hard to make that back over that time.  

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I have just finished renewing all the hoses and pipework from the engine forwards. Nothing else ever to replace, (apart from the heater hoses, which I may do one day).
 

I got all my parts, genuine from Porsche Guildford and Porsche Brooklands. I believe I had discount of 10%.

Total price £786…

 

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22 minutes ago, phazed said:

I have just finished renewing all the hoses and pipework from the engine forwards. Nothing else ever to replace, (apart from the heater hoses, which I may do one day).
 

I got all my parts, genuine from Porsche Guildford and Porsche Brooklands. I believe I had discount of 10%.

Total price £786…

 

is that including labour? 

any thoughts on this kit from desing911? https://www.design911shop.com/p/radiator-pipes-replacement-kit-porsche-987-987c-997-carrera-oematch/

 

seems a bit cheaper?

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The labour for my car was supplied FOC by me!

That kit for £555. you mention above is only for the front pipework set up.

I also renewed the two long aluminium pipes going to the rear and the two shaped rubber pipes going to the engine.

I added up roughly what I paid for in relation to that supplied by Design911 and it came to approximately £530.

 If you are getting 10% off, you might as well go to a Porsche main dealer but do satisfy yourself first with a quote.

personally, I would fit the lot. Fit once and forget.

 

 

 

 

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thanks for the heads up with the OPC, had a quote for the same pack as design911 have and they quoted £330!

 

bit of a saving :) 

 

my copper brake lines are looking a bit cr*p is it worth swapping them while the subframe is down?? can you buy a new pre bent version of the lines??

 

thanks again guys :) 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sadly got a similar leaking hose inside right wheel arch. Whilst I arrange getting it sorted I need to top the system up as it has dropped below Min when I look in the filler cap. 
does it need to be a specific anti-freeze/coolant? If buying concentrate what mix needs to be made with the deionised water? 
 

thanks in advance of any advice/help 

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Don't know where in the UK you are but mostly small top up will be OK with water as the system holds around 20 litres so it will not over dilute the mix unless you are losing litres of coolant, in which case getting it sorted is urgent, so water until the replacement would still be OK.  The standard to look for is TL 774-D/F which covers M96 and M97 engines int eh 9x6 and 9x7 Porsche ranges and more widely VAG, Merc, BMW, personally I used TRIPLE QX Red from ECP when I did change the coolant in my 986 and have had no issues, it meets TL 774-D/F.  Comma Xtreme G30 has been suggested on here often as well, but any orange/red OAT coolant should suffice for the short term and future top ups.  1:1 mix for really cold -36°C or 2 water to 1 AF for more moderate -20°C protection.

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  • 3 weeks later...

hey guys,

 

thanks for all you're help. its all back together and all the front pipes replaced. wasn't too bad of a job. i did the brake lines as well. again not too bad.

 

worst part was bolting the sub frame back up, trying to line the holes up and not cross threading the bolts! 

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3 hours ago, Jow said:

hey guys,

 

thanks for all you're help. its all back together and all the front pipes replaced. wasn't too bad of a job. i did the brake lines as well. again not too bad.

 

worst part was bolting the sub frame back up, trying to line the holes up and not cross threading the bolts! 

@bally4563's golden tip: to get some threaded bar with the same thread to put int eh holes so making guide studs...  sorry for the Captain Hindsight moment.

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