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Gramps
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Posts posted by Gramps
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8 minutes ago, Paul P said:
They are covered and mine is registered, some initial confusion over "classic means you can get the updated PCCM+ unit" vs "9x7 are now eligible for classic register"
I recently bought some wiper blades, over the counter, and they automatically applied 15% discount. It appears that some franchises choose to apply a wider scope to the discounts on offer, and for no cost I have this year saved 200 quid on a service and in this case about 7.50 on a set of wiper blades.
No lose scenario.....
Def win win. So I took myself down the OPC today to register. The guy took my details and gave me a nice shiny members badge, not too sure what I'm going to do with it mind. Says I should get some bumph come through in next couple of months. I'd much rather a nice shiny HPFP though, still no news on that 😭
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9 hours ago, Paul P said:
Have you signed up for Classic Register as well ? - Tonbridge give 15% discount on parts sales ...... quite a saving on a HFP when it does eventually turn up.
Hi Paul, no not yet. Seen some debate over whether the gen2's were acceptable, but also that parts discount was only when fitted by Porsche?
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For one's general interest I signed up to "My Porsche" in the hope I might be able to expedite the supply of my replacement High Pressure Fuel Pump (been waiting 3mths now 🙄😡), or at least get some more info on a possible delivery date, but no such luck. But on the plus side once you've registered you get all the bumph on your car at the time of sale, including any extras. So if you're in any doubt or ever wondered give it a go.
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8 hours ago, iborguk said:
Went to the Tipec Kent meet.
Good chitchat as always and met @Gramps 👍
and I met iborguk 😁, which was a pleasant surprise as always nice to put a face to these interweb names 👍
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I've PSE on my 987.2 S but wanted a bit more. I fitted Topgear sports manifolds and they worked a treat. Whisper quiet with PSE off and nice and fruity with PSE on. Also with a remap now at 344HP (with BMC airfilter but no ther mods). Can still sound quite quite fruity if you give it some beans with PSE off. Video is with PSE on.
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Thanks for your input guys. Seems like not too many horror stories and seems ok to change it out in general. I so want a nice clear screen in front of me. I'll double check the right replacement screen is fitted and try and keep an eye to make sure all connections go back on 👍
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Hi All
So, has anyone changed their windscreen on a 987.2 Boxster?
My motor has done 90k miles and obviously suffered front facing collateral damage in that time.
The bumper was re-sparayed before I bought it, hence I thought it looked good for the mileage.
But, besides the obviously chip or 2 on the bonnet. the windscreen is also showing signs of mileage.
It's much more noticeable with a lower sun and can be very distracting. The screen is peppered with small chips all over.
Has anyone on here had experience in changing the windscreen?
If for the same reasons what difference did it make?
If replaced for whatever other reason, cracked/chipped, was it something you were glad you did, or something you wished you'd left as it was?
The Boxster screen with built in aerial and being a convertible, somehow seems a tad more complicated. Anyone got any advice before I take the plunge?
TIA....Rob (AKA Gramps) -
Another iCarsoft POR V2.0 has come up on Ebay at a reasonable price of £85.00 or Best Offer (+£3.30 Del) if anyone is interested, already got one myself.
Cheers All
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Possibly as a consequence of my on-going suspected High Pressure Fuel Pump issues, and the resultant extra cranking when starting from cold, my battery decided it had had enough. Which was fine as I do like to have a nice new battery, it's a bit liking fitting new tyres, always gives you a bit of a feel good factor.
But I was always concerned with the size of my current battery, which came with the car and of which I had no idea how old it might be, as it has always had to deal with the opening and closing of the roof multiple times every time I drive the car, stop somewhere and get back in, and the opening/closing for maintenance. That must take a lot out of the battery, as such it is always something I do with the engine running, other than for maintenance. The existing one always looked kinda small in there. So when it came to replacing it I wanted to get the highest capacity one I could which would fit.
My existing one was an Exide EB712. The battery's cold cranking current is 670A and storage capacity 71Ah, which are not big figures IMO. Replacement for the exact same would've cost about £70 delivered, so relatively cheap.
After much trawling I opted for a Bosch S5 013, cold cranking current 830A and storage capacity 100Ah
£118.30 + £7 delivery.
Blimey what a difference when cranking, it really whizzes round compared with the previous battery, which although being on it's last legs it still seemed ok when cranking till it gave up the ghost.
When it did finally give in I couldn't even pop the bonnet so my "battery charger extender mod" was used in anger for the 1st time and it worked a treat. I've extended the battery terminals with the relevant connector plug/socket out to appear under a section of the lower windscreen panel next to the drivers side (Uk) wiper arm, which you can just pop off, and plug it into your charger. So bonnet easily popped.
https://flic.kr/p/2oJXV2Y
It's got to be said that having the battery positioned right in the middle by the bulkhead makes it a real pain to get the battery in and out, especially the extra large, and therefore extra heavy, new one. Leaning that far over lifting that kinda weight is not easy on the back.
The dimensions for the original battery are 175W x 175H x 278L, the dimensions of its Bosch replacement are 175W x 190H x 353L. So 15mm taller and 75mm wider.
So, did it fit? Yes, just. And it now sits about bang middle, roughly equi-distant from either side.
https://flic.kr/p/2oJXV3z
Width and length were not an issue, it was the height I was worried about, as at 15mm taller would I still be able to get the battery cover back on (thought I might just leave it off if it didn't). But the battery cover fits back on fine without any forcing of anything.
The only issue was with the clamp that holds the battery in the tray.
There is a hole in the tray for the clamp bolt in exactly the right place (75mm along from the one used previously, must all be part of the battery design) but sadly there is no "nut" below the tray panel hole to screw the clamp bolt in to??
https://flic.kr/p/2oJWffN
https://flic.kr/p/2oJVwpf
Anyone came across this before? If so what was your fix? Admittedly I've not looked too deep for a fix myself so far.
Should anything untoward happen I do not believe there is any danger of the battery going anywhere as there is very little space between the bonnet and the battery and it is obviously well strapped up by the battery leads.
As an aside, does anyone know what this connector which is sitting next to the battery is for? Just general interest.
https://flic.kr/p/2oJWfg4
So if anyone is looking to replace/upgrade their battery with a super heavy duty one I'd recomment the Bosch S5 013.
And if anyone knows the answer to the clamp bolt conumdrum, please let me know.
Cheers All -
Possibly as a consequence of my on-going suspected High Pressure Fuel Pump issues, and the resultant extra cranking when starting from cold, my battery decided it had had enough. Which was fine as I do like to have a nice new battery, it's a bit liking fitting new tyres, always gives you a bit of a feel good factor.
But I was always concerned with the size of my current battery, which came with the car and of which I had no idea how old it might be, as it has always had to deal with the opening and closing of the roof multiple times every time I drive the car, stop somewhere and get back in, and the opening/closing for maintenance. That must take a lot out of the battery, as such it is always something I do with the engine running, other than for maintenance. The existing one always looked kinda small in there. So when it came to replacing it I wanted to get the highest capacity one I could which would fit.
My existing one was an Exide EB712. The battery's cold cranking current is 670A and storage capacity 71Ah, which are not big figures IMO. Replacement for the exact same would've cost about £70 delivered, so relatively cheap.
After much trawling I opted for a Bosch S5 013, cold cranking current 830A and storage capacity 100Ah
£118.30 + £7 delivery.
Blimey what a difference when cranking, it really whizzes round compared with the previous battery, which although being on it's last legs it still seemed ok when cranking till it gave up the ghost.
When it did finally give in I couldn't even pop the bonnet so my "battery charger extender mod" was used in anger for the 1st time and it worked a treat. I've extended the battery terminals with the relevant connector plug/socket out to appear under a section of the lower windscreen panel next to the drivers side (Uk) wiper arm, which you can just pop off, and plug it into your charger. So bonnet easily popped.
https://flic.kr/p/2oJXV2Y
It's got to be said that having the battery positioned right in the middle by the bulkhead makes it a real pain to get the battery in and out, especially the extra large, and therefore extra heavy, new one. Leaning that far over lifting that kinda weight is not easy on the back.
The dimensions for the original battery are 175W x 175H x 278L, the dimensions of its Bosch replacement are 175W x 190H x 353L. So 15mm taller and 75mm wider.
So, did it fit? Yes, just. And it now sits about bang middle, roughly equi-distant from either side.
https://flic.kr/p/2oJXV3z
Width and length were not an issue, it was the height I was worried about, as at 15mm taller would I still be able to get the battery cover back on (thought I might just leave it off if it didn't). But the battery cover fits back on fine without any forcing of anything.
The only issue was with the clamp that holds the battery in the tray.
There is a hole in the tray for the clamp bolt in exactly the right place (75mm along from the one used previously, must all be part of the battery design) but sadly there is no "nut" below the tray panel hole to screw the clamp bolt in to??
https://flic.kr/p/2oJWffN
https://flic.kr/p/2oJVwpf
Anyone came across this before? If so what was your fix? Admittedly I've not looked too deep for a fix myself so far.
Should anything untoward happen I do not believe there is any danger of the battery going anywhere as there is very little space between the bonnet and the battery and it is obviously well strapped up by the battery leads.
As an aside, does anyone know what this connector which is sitting next to the battery is for? Just general interest.
https://flic.kr/p/2oJWfg4
So if anyone is looking to replace/upgrade their battery with a super heavy duty one I'd recomment the Bosch S5 013.
And if anyone knows the answer to the clamp bolt conumdrum, please let me know.
Cheers All -
On 6/15/2023 at 6:10 PM, ½cwt said:
Great result £10 less than a new V1 👍
It is so much less painful and more fun spending everyone else's money particularly when you've spent a chunk of you own on similar things in the past.
Sounds like there'e some pain in there ???
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23 minutes ago, fizz said:
erm... ive kinda bought it thanks to your heads up as ive been looking for one for a while.
So spending more monies on the car again but at least i can get my monies back on this if i sell it again.
Glad you got in there 1st, they don't hang around long at that price, and like you say you can flog it for the same later. Win Win 👍
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Guys, for your info if interested. iCarsoft POR V2.0 for £84 delivered. Used but in v.good condition. I've already got one or I'd have it for myself, but be quick.
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25 minutes ago, Ti Rich said:
I have a 987.1 and an ICARSOFT POR2 but guess it's a different engine?
Hi @Ti Rich, yes you're right, the DFI engine came in the 987.2 so no HPFP on your model 🙂
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22 hours ago, iborguk said:
Can't help re diagnosis but if the part we're talking about is 9A1 110 315 06 then that's about £750 from an OPC before discount.
No pun intended but don't discount an OPC before looking at third parties for these kind of things...
Hi @iborguk. Yes that is the part # and you're right I should try them. Does this Forum have a discount with any OPCs?
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1 hour ago, gillbe said:
This thread describes HPFP related issues on a 981 Cayman - maybe symptons similar to yours?
Hi @gillbe. Thanks for that link, does sound very much like mine and the guy has posted a very handy fix-it guide, should be very similar on my gen 2 👍
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1 hour ago, Bike Loon said:
I have an iCarsoft module but my car is in the body shop right now. If it comes back before you have solved it I will have a look for you
Hi @Bike Loon. Thanks for the offer. Hopefully I should get the answers I'm after from Paul P 👍
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1 hour ago, Crudeoink said:
If you're near to Oxford you're welcome to scan my car for the data you need 🙂
Hi @Crudeoink. Thanks for your offer, it's much appreciated. If Paul P wasn't such a helpful guy, and fortunately for me quite local, I would have enjoyed the scoot out to meet up and take you up on your offer.
I'm sure Paul will be able to provide all the answers to my many questions LOL.
I'm of the same ilk as yourself, if anyone round my way (Orpington Kent) needs a hand whatever I'm always willing to do what I can.
Thanks again.
Cheers...Rob
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20 hours ago, Paul P said:
Rob. I don’t have an icarsoft por2. It I do have the “all model” version which I think runs exactly the same software. But. It’s out on loan to someone at the moment so I can’t do a check and it’s probably best to take the comparison from the same or similar unit rather than interpret from PIWIS.
so. If nobody else is able to help you are welcome to come find me in Strood and we can run through it on my car (2011 987.2 S)
we can do the “2 birds with one stone thing” and code your cruise at the same time (I think we takes about that before)
let me know.
Hello Paul. Thanks for the offer, that'd be ideal. I know you said last time you'd been busy of late, so as and when you have the time let me know and I'll pop over. I'm on 0790.... if it makes things easier. Cheers....Rob
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A plea for a big favour?
Some of you may have seen my previous posts re the issue I'm having with, I heavily suspect, my High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) on my 2011 Boxster S.They are big money (well to me it's big money), cheapest I've found is £770 (eurospares, Design911 want £1047). I'm looking at possibly doing it myself, if not there'll be a few hundred quids worth of labour on top of that. So hence I want to be as certain as I can be on my diagnostics.
Despite Googling high and low I've not found my answers so I'm hoping someone may be able to do me a big favour and provide the answers.
If left a few days my car takes approx what seems like 6 cranks to start and then when it does it is very lumpy, can also sometimes stall. I also occasionally get the "Reduced engine power" warning. If I turn it off (or it stalls) and I start it again, it may again run lumpy before smoothing itself out.
I have an iCarsoft POR 2 which can monitor the pressure in the high pressure fuel rail (HPFR) and as expected the engine runs lumpy till the pressure comes up. When cold it reads about 70psi, once it starts the pressure remains around that figure and the engine is very lumpy, once the pressure increases the engine will run smooth. So that all makes sense so far.
The crucial part I'm interested in is the pressure retained in the HPFR when the car has been left standing for a few days, is cold, and prior to starting/cranking, so just ignition on. Then I want to know as and when the pressure increases, does it increase as soon as the engine is cranked prior to actually firing? and if so to what pressure? Then once started what pressure is seen. Once it's run smooth I can restart strainght away with no issues as the HPFR retains a higher pressure (170psi?)
I've found on mine that once running smooth the pressure is roughly in line with the RPM, so about 1200psi dropping to 7-800 once the fast idle backs off.
If you have an iCarsoft POR 2 the HPFR pressure monitor function is located as follows -
Ignition on, POR 2 plugged in - Select OBD11 - Monitor overview comes up - hit enter, it will then talk to the vehicle
Diagnostic Menu comes up, scroll down to Live Data and hit enter
View Data comes up - select "Custom Selected"
Scroll down about 5 pages (one line at a time) and you will come to Fuel Rail Pressure (gauge), hit enter (you can also select the engine RPM which is on the 2nd page I believe, if you want to see the corresponding rpm)
Once selected F2 will start the monitoring. So with just the ignition on you will see the pressure retained in the HPFR from the last time the car was run, so answer #1, what figure do you see?
If possible watch the pressure during cranking, does it increase immediately cranking starts (if so to what figure?)? or not till the engine fires? At which point are your figures similar to mine in that they roughly mirror the rpm?
I know it's a big ask but any help would be much appreciated.
Alternatively if you live anywhere near me, I'm in Orpington Kent, and you have the same model, I could maybe come to you and plug my iCarsoft in and see what happens.
The same HPFPs were fitted to gen2 Caymans of the same age, and also 997s and 981s, so any of those model variants will help.
FYI, if you do have the iCarsoft and are not aware (I wasn't) there is also an option available on the F1 button which when monitoring will give you a live graph.
TIA if you can help at all.
Cheers....Rob (AKA Gramps)
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1 hour ago, backinaporscheagain said:
liking the upgraded rear lights, are these in your opinion an improvement on oem?
Got the same on my "White" Edition. They definitely bring it bang up to date. A couple of things that age the Boxster (IMO) are the lights and the side pods. If you want to keep your Boxster looking classic then leave it as it is, but if you want to add to it then these lights are a good option, and obviously easy to fit. I parked next to a same gen sibling in Wales so it makes it easy to compare.
Each to their own in the end of course 🙂
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2 hours ago, ½cwt said:
The hazards of internet diagnosis!
That hint of a possibility of the MAF came from this site 😲🤣. But always open to all sugge🙂stions
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31 minutes ago, ½cwt said:
I love 'free' fixes.
Glad I didn't fork out on a new MAF which was a strong possibility 🙂. The cost of that then the hassle to fit it??? I would've been gutted to go through all that to then find a loose oil filler cap 🤣
coffin lower track control arm 987.2 recommendations
in 987
Posted
Hi All.
I need to replace my front lower track control (coffin) arms on my 987.2 Boxster S.
Any recommendations ( I see Spyder Performance ones come up a lot, are they worth the extra bunce? ) or any in particular I should avoid?
Also any tips re the removal and fitting would be welcome.
TIA
Gramps (AKA Rob)