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What have YOU done to your 986 today ?


Mike G

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1 hour ago, myfirstboxster said:

Fitted a reversing camera/sensor and hooked it up to my Xtrons double din , it was a bit involved !

Nice work. Would love to see a picture of the camera, sounds odd I know! I was thinking of putting one to the right of the rear registration plate, there seems to be a round part perfect for it on the bumper. 

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37 minutes ago, GmanB said:

Nice work. Would love to see a picture of the camera, sounds odd I know! I was thinking of putting one to the right of the rear registration plate, there seems to be a round part perfect for it on the bumper. 

It was a combined number plate holder/camera/reversing sensor , not very elegant but it works ok   

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13 hours ago, myfirstboxster said:

It was a combined number plate holder/camera/reversing sensor , not very elegant but it works ok   

got a link to the device?   photos?   how long did it take to fit? did you follow a guide of some kind?

Edited by thefunkygibbon
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14 hours ago, GmanB said:

Nice work. Would love to see a picture of the camera, sounds odd I know! I was thinking of putting one to the right of the rear registration plate, there seems to be a round part perfect for it on the bumper. 

Is that “round part” the cover for the towing eye socket?

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https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F400896023528

 

Can't find any evidence in ebay account as it was 12 months ago but the link above looks about right. Mine is a 987 but if you check the part number on original light, they should match up. The original one had vw on it not porsche.

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On 6/19/2019 at 10:01 PM, Terryg said:

Just on the off chance (after two previous attempts) if you make any more I will buy one

Hi @Terryg

I'm happy to make one for you. It's quite time consuming to build and test the way I do it (I tested each stage as I go along, checking circuit board tracks for shorts, inspecting all the solder for dry joints etc, and also the final unit) so the price would be £120 including a tracked/signed for delivery to a UK address.

I appreciate that's probably a bit more than people have charged in the past for these, but that includes a Porsche OEM connector (all properly crimped), careful component mounting and wiring.

The unit will need power - for this I ran a wire across to the fusebox and used a piggy back connector with a 1A fuse. I can provide images and description of the install but it's all pretty straightforward as it uses the OEM connector to connect to the switch and colour coded wiring so you know which spades to plug into the harness. I've tested that the micro controller works all the way down to about 7 volts and up to 15 volts so should work for all battery/alternator conditions.

Let me know if you're interested. If there were a couple of others interested I could probably drop the price a bit as it would likely save me time to build a couple at the same time, source the parts in bulk etc...

Cheers

Mark

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13 hours ago, Mark Lane said:

Hi @Terryg

I'm happy to make one for you. It's quite time consuming to build and test the way I do it (I tested each stage as I go along, checking circuit board tracks for shorts, inspecting all the solder for dry joints etc, and also the final unit) so the price would be £120 including a tracked/signed for delivery to a UK address.

I appreciate that's probably a bit more than people have charged in the past for these, but that includes a Porsche OEM connector (all properly crimped), careful component mounting and wiring.

The unit will need power - for this I ran a wire across to the fusebox and used a piggy back connector with a 1A fuse. I can provide images and description of the install but it's all pretty straightforward as it uses the OEM connector to connect to the switch and colour coded wiring so you know which spades to plug into the harness. I've tested that the micro controller works all the way down to about 7 volts and up to 15 volts so should work for all battery/alternator conditions.

Let me know if you're interested. If there were a couple of others interested I could probably drop the price a bit as it would likely save me time to build a couple at the same time, source the parts in bulk etc...

Cheers

Mark

Hi Mark,

I have no problem with the price, since then another member has approached me about making one, let me just touch base with them and I will come back to you. One other thing, a previous version from another guy on here worked on some cars and not on others. He claimed that my battery was weak and that is why it didn't work, but two years later the same battery is still on and starts the car easily even after 3 or 4 weeks of non use. He was tapping off the cigarette lighter if that makes any difference. Obviously if I were to pay that much I would need to know it will work on my car.

Let me know on the above and I will speak to the other guy who was thinking of doing them.

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Hi @Terryg tried so send you a PM but didn't work, so pasting my message here : 

Thanks for your message. That's odd that previous units only worked on some cars. I opted not to use the cigarette lighter power for a few reasons :

1. On my car (MY02) it's live all the time which would mean that the unit is powered round the clock. I've measured the current draw when idle at about 20mA so it would probably take forever to drain a battery but it didn't seem good practice to install something which was draining the battery with the car turned off (even if it was tiny)

2. I had a strict "no wiring butchery/fully reversible" policy so that I could go back to stock any time. There isn't really a simple way to get power off the back of the cigarette lighter connector without either splicing the wiring loom (which I hate) or trying to make up some sort of connecting wires with spade connectors which I didn't like the idea of.

I do know that the behaviour of the cigarette lighter socket is different on different years of car - on some they are live all the time, and on some they come on only with the ignition (and then also go off when the starter is engaged). I also understand that some stay on after the ignition is switched off and then go off after a period of time. Perhaps that accounts for the differences between cars?

I took my power off of fuse B6 which is responsible for "Direction indicator lights, power windows, convertible top" so that made sense to keep all the convertible top power provided from the same place - i.e. when the convertible top mech is "live" so is the 1 touch unit. 

Let me know what you decide, absolutely no problem if you prefer to go with a different unit. 
 

All the best

Mark

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8 minutes ago, Mark Lane said:

Hi @Terryg tried so send you a PM but didn't work, so pasting my message here : 

Thanks for your message. That's odd that previous units only worked on some cars. I opted not to use the cigarette lighter power for a few reasons :

1. On my car (MY02) it's live all the time which would mean that the unit is powered round the clock. I've measured the current draw when idle at about 20mA so it would probably take forever to drain a battery but it didn't seem good practice to install something which was draining the battery with the car turned off (even if it was tiny)

2. I had a strict "no wiring butchery/fully reversible" policy so that I could go back to stock any time. There isn't really a simple way to get power off the back of the cigarette lighter connector without either splicing the wiring loom (which I hate) or trying to make up some sort of connecting wires with spade connectors which I didn't like the idea of.

I do know that the behaviour of the cigarette lighter socket is different on different years of car - on some they are live all the time, and on some they come on only with the ignition (and then also go off when the starter is engaged). I also understand that some stay on after the ignition is switched off and then go off after a period of time. Perhaps that accounts for the differences between cars?

I took my power off of fuse B6 which is responsible for "Direction indicator lights, power windows, convertible top" so that made sense to keep all the convertible top power provided from the same place - i.e. when the convertible top mech is "live" so is the 1 touch unit. 

Let me know what you decide, absolutely no problem if you prefer to go with a different unit. 
 

All the best

Mark

Thanks Mark, I am totally inept on electrics but I get all of what you are saying,> The previous one I had was made up of load of spades as you said, the first unit I got these fell off as I tried to fit it, he sent me another one that was better made (only one spade fell off), I totally agree that this is not desirable.. Since I rarely use the top with the engine off I never really understood the underpowered battery reasoning but hey ho.

Will get back to you, thanks.

Terry

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15 hours ago, Jim b said:

Not sure if the 986 has the same number plate light, but the link looks right for 987

The 986 uses a 993 part !

If I remember I 'll take a spare 986 light to the Blackbushe meet and see if it fits a 987.

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Waiting for it to return from some work being done at Cotswold. Ordered a few things to make it a happy little Boxster: new key heads to replace the perished rubber buttons, new 997 shifter, new frunk struts, and a new fuel filler cap.

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4 hours ago, Patt said:

The 986 uses a 993 part !

If I remember I 'll take a spare 986 light to the Blackbushe meet and see if it fits a 987.

Here's a picture of my number plate light and one of the camera in situ. The light flicks out so no need to remove screws.

http://imgur.com/a/b0kwD2l

 

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AOS swap via elbow deep in the engine bay via the OSR wheel arch lol ffs.

And the centre silencer rattle cure..

EC7D295D-8F1E-4142-B6A3-2D38CDE8EE3C.JPG

IMG_8649.jpg

IMG_8652.jpg

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