What have YOU done to your 987 today

[Guest]

6 hours ago, red rocket said:

Cheers Red 

[McDonald]

1 hour ago, entdgc said:

Connected my BMW up to the fuse box and it did nothing

From other posts, I've formed the impression that it needs to be another battery connected to the fuse box rather than another car. Doesn't quite make sense to me, but that's my understanding.

[entdgc]

1 minute ago, McDonald said:

From other posts, I've formed the impression that it needs to be another battery connected to the fuse box rather than another car. Doesn't quite make sense to me, but that's my understanding.

I have read that too but like you 'doesn't make sense'. Maybe worth trying...

[Buzzlt]

Dunno what you don’t understand. If you supply a small amount of current to the fuse box it should be enough to pop the frunk. It’s all in the handbook. If you don’t have it it is easily downloaded or at the top of the Facebook 987 page. Way easier than finding the pull wire. Sorry it I sound condescending but it’s hard being a Sparky sometimes.

 

[entdgc]

12 minutes ago, Buzzlt said:

Dunno what you don’t understand. If you supply a small amount of current to the fuse box it should be enough to pop the frunk. It’s all in the handbook. If you don’t have it it is easily downloaded or at the top of the Facebook 987 page. Way easier than finding the pull wire. Sorry it I sound condescending but it’s hard being a Sparky sometimes.

Yes I have connected my other car via jump leads to the fuse box. +ve to the pull out tab -ve to the door hinge but this did not pop the frunk as I would have expected. @McDonald was suggesting it needs to be the battery connected direct to the fuse box but neither of us understand why this would be any different? Perhaps a clever sparky can enlighten us?

[Paul P]

3 hours ago, entdgc said:

Yes I have connected my other car via jump leads to the fuse box. +ve to the pull out tab -ve to the door hinge but this did not pop the frunk as I would have expected. @McDonald was suggesting it needs to be the battery connected direct to the fuse box but neither of us understand why this would be any different? Perhaps a clever sparky can enlighten us?

The connections are supposed to wake up a small part of the electronics.  Enough for the key fob button to pop the bonnet.  As far as I know. Nothing else wakes or works.  
 

battery vs jump leads.  Agree. Should work.  But.  Shouldn’t need the donor car running.  but good connections are important. 
 

boost packs.  No. Unless they have a boost button.  Without that they never switch to high delivery mode and don’t therefore give enough juice to wake the circuits.  
 

Seen it done a few times.  Positive to the fuse box, negative to the door latch on the b pillar.  Wait a couple of mins.  Key fob, open.  
 

when dine like that with a donor battery. It’s has worked reliably the perhaps 4 times I have been involved in doing it.  (Different cars) 
 

 

Edited November 19, 2023 by Paul P

[Buzzlt]

Let myself in for that one didn’t I!

So mine has the battery disconnected and I tried it with my booster pack on the door hinge bracket and the pull out tab. It works fine on both the sill switch and the key fob. Worth checking that you are getting a good contact on the pull out part and the door hinge as some of those plastic jump leads only have a connection in one side of the crocodile.

Failing that worth a mention that one of my keys stopped working as I had not used it for a long time. There is a way to reset the key but you would need a decent battery. The pull out tab only seams to provide power for the frunk release and nothing much else.

It also powers the key release in the steering column and neither the key or the sill button work with the key in the ignition.

Still hope you don’t need to look for the wire pull. I remember seeing it once but can’t recall where.

[entdgc]

10 hours ago, Paul P said:

The connections are supposed to wake up a small part of the electronics.  Enough for the key fob button to pop the bonnet.

Connected my BMW with the jump leads to the fuse box again this morning the dame as yesterday. This released the key so I tried your suggestion of using the remote and hey presto POP! Not sure if only the remote key works or maybe the connection wasn't good yesterday and that's why the sill switch didn't work?

Thanks for your comments @Buzzlt. It seems the requirement to have the spare battery connected directly was an internet fallacy - at least in this case...

[Paul P]

3 hours ago, entdgc said:

Connected my BMW with the jump leads to the fuse box again this morning the dame as yesterday. This released the key so I tried your suggestion of using the remote and hey presto POP! Not sure if only the remote key works or maybe the connection wasn't good yesterday and that's why the sill switch didn't work?

Thanks for your comments @Buzzlt. It seems the requirement to have the spare battery connected directly was an internet fallacy - at least in this case...

Cool

re the key - there is a manual release mechanism for that.  In the lid of the fusebox there is a long thin hook.  On the ignition switch there is a small flap at about the 4 o clock position.  Lift the flap with the hook end of the tool. Exposes a small hole.  Push the pointy end of the tool into the hole and it will release the key.  
 

 

[nelmo]

6 hours ago, Paul P said:

Cool

re the key - there is a manual release mechanism for that.  In the lid of the fusebox there is a long thin hook.  On the ignition switch there is a small flap at about the 4 o clock position.  Lift the flap with the hook end of the tool. Exposes a small hole.  Push the pointy end of the tool into the hole and it will release the key.  
 

 

Now, THAT is useful info - i was wondering what the hell that thing was 😁

[bally4563]

1 hour ago, nelmo said:

Now, THAT is useful info - i was wondering what the hell that thing was 😁

I would suggest try driving your cars more?

[entdgc]

36 minutes ago, bally4563 said:

I would suggest try driving your cars more?

Guilty as charged, Mick! I consider myself reprimanded. 😡

[ricof]

On 11/17/2023 at 3:09 PM, nelmo said:

Dare we ask numbers? I've just had some of that done as well and probably need more, so just wondering...

Sure:

- replace engine mount bush and install powerflex insert (this has made a HUGE difference, everything feels much more tight and cohesive) £160

- rear spyder performance coffin arms with poly bushes £360

- front eccentric camber bushes £346

- exhaust manifold bolts & gasket replaced £340 (one bank only)

- front and rear ARB bushes £230

- Castrol SRF brake fluid £56

- fast road/track geo £150

All figures are inclusive of parts and labour

[nelmo]

1 hour ago, ricof said:

Sure:

- replace engine mount bush and install powerflex insert (this has made a HUGE difference, everything feels much more tight and cohesive) £160

- rear spyder performance coffin arms with poly bushes £360

- front eccentric camber bushes £346

- exhaust manifold bolts & gasket replaced £340 (one bank only)

- front and rear ARB bushes £230

- Castrol SRF brake fluid £56

- fast road/track geo £150

All figures are inclusive of parts and labour

Seem pretty good prices - can you say who did that or are you keeping them to yourself? 🙂 A geo is next on my list...

[ricof]

1 hour ago, nelmo said:

Seem pretty good prices - can you say who did that or are you keeping them to yourself? 🙂 A geo is next on my list...

Actually I may be a little wayward on some of those - don't have the invoice to hand. Octane Garage, really great service from Lee 

[nelmo]

4 hours ago, ricof said:

Actually I may be a little wayward on some of those - don't have the invoice to hand. Octane Garage, really great service from Lee 

Ah nice - there are some great driving roads around there as well...

[ricof]

35 minutes ago, nelmo said:

Ah nice - there are some great driving roads around there as well...

Lots of very poor potholed roads too!

[Del_tl1000r]

On 11/17/2023 at 6:35 PM, skoosh1970 said:

Let her go.....pick up my new steed at 1pm tomorrow....!!

So what's it like to drive? Spec. manual? How does it compare to the Boxster?

[Guest]

51 minutes ago, Del_tl1000r said:

So what's it like to drive? Spec. manual? How does it compare to the Boxster?

1999 3.4 manual...too early to compare to the Boxster yet but so far I can say she's smooth and powerful and feels Very special indeed..!!! Build quality excellent as per and the ride seems a little more solid than the Boxster but being a coupe that's to be expected. Don't sit as low as though. The soundtrack is very different and deeper with a custom stainless steel exhaust. Just feels a little more solid and a step up. She's been very well looked after fortunately so the interior is on par for quality compared to my 987.2 and being well specced from new certainly helps the feel of luxury. 

[Porschevirgin1968]

Just been for a blast on the A868 Hartside Pass, normally a bikers paradise, nice and quiet today, some great hairpin bends. That sports exhaust does sound good 🤭

[Porschevirgin1968]

16 minutes ago, Porschevirgin1968 said:

Just been for a blast on the A868 Hartside Pass, normally a bikers paradise, nice and quiet today, some great hairpin bends. That sports exhaust does sound good 🤭

A686 I meant lol. 

[Paul P]

34 minutes ago, Porschevirgin1968 said:

Just been for a blast on the A868 Hartside Pass, normally a bikers paradise, nice and quiet today, some great hairpin bends. That sports exhaust does sound good 🤭

Glad you are having the chance to enjoy the car. Has the temp gauge / coolant level gremlin sorted itself ?

[Porschevirgin1968]

1 hour ago, Paul P said:

Glad you are having the chance to enjoy the car. Has the temp gauge / coolant level gremlin sorted itself ?

Gauge has stuck once since I brought it home, temperature is fine, it's obviously the gauge that's faulty. I'm guessing that's a full instrument change. It's odd. Because after 10 minutes the gauge reads the correct temperature. It's not everytime, just trying to work out when is sticks, took it out yesterday and it was fine no issues at all, then today it worked itself then all of a sudden it rectified to correct temperature. Bizarre. 

[Paul P]

1 minute ago, Porschevirgin1968 said:

Gauge has stuck once since I brought it home, temperature is fine, it's obviously the gauge that's faulty. I'm guessing that's a full instrument change. It's odd. Because after 10 minutes the gauge reads the correct temperature. It's not everytime, just trying to work out when is sticks, took it out yesterday and it was fine no issues at all, then today it worked itself then all of a sudden it rectified to correct temperature. Bizarre. 

I would be more inclined to a sensor problem. A decent specialist would have the kit to run a test on the cluster and see if the gauges are accurately reporting what the sensor is sending  I think you can also make the gauges operate from the diags to see if the needle sticks   

if the coolant level is constant I would be looking at sensor as the initial suspect   
 

Annoying but not spoiling the fun   If you have to experience an issue that’s the kind to have   

 

[Porschevirgin1968]

18 minutes ago, Paul P said:

I would be more inclined to a sensor problem. A decent specialist would have the kit to run a test on the cluster and see if the gauges are accurately reporting what the sensor is sending  I think you can also make the gauges operate from the diags to see if the needle sticks   

if the coolant level is constant I would be looking at sensor as the initial suspect   
 

Annoying but not spoiling the fun   If you have to experience an issue that’s the kind to have   

 

Agreed, certainly not spoiling the fun, back in work tomorrow night for 4 nights so it's tucked up in the garage until Monday.  Sunday night in Glasgow planned months ago. Elastic came today to sort the roof out. Drain plugs and new fuel cap ordered, only cause the retaining strap is broken.