iborguk

1 hour ago, moonshine said:

Greasing wheel nuts IS bad practice as it can lead to overtorquing of the bolt.

Porsche wheel nuts (when you buy 'em) are coated in Optimol Paste TA (referred to as Optimoly TA in Porsche docs)

Here's a partial quote from a 2012, 987 doc re wheel nuts.

"Apply a light coating of Optimoly TA (aluminium paste) to the thread, shank and under the head"

997.2 version of the doc linked and a pic of what I keep in the garage.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwip1_fA2ciEAxXaXUEAHSguCmcQFnoECBIQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Frennlist.com%2Fforums%2Fattachments%2F997-forum%2F1316380d1598447728-suspension-components-torque-specs-wm-4001tw-997-2-torques.pdf&usg=AOvVaw2Bj5gOorDiblzezI1JFLGW&opi=89978449

Think you'd end up replacing the indicator stalk, not sure how long "the fix" will hold up.

Loosen the wheel nuts a bit with the wheel on the ground.

Jack up that corner and then lower the jack.

Should be enough to break the seal.

17 hours ago, andy987 said:

Checked the drain holes and noticed one of the ball joints on the hood mechanism had broke. They were also the white plastic type, I did this job years ago on another Boxster and remember getting the white plastic ones off Ebay.  

Seems to be a lot more variety now though, some look 3D printed, or best to get Genuine ones?

The originals are only available with the “arms”. As @Mattman42 said don’t get the metal ones, these are designed to break when the roof mechanism is under stress. However they also break when the plastic is old and brittle.

Also check them arms aren’t bent when reinstalling.

.

25 minutes ago, mr.tourette23 said:

Can you remember what sort of cost it was? Got a big service coming up and this is only going to add to the pain😢

If it’s the motor then ballpark £450 for the part itself. Think it was a couple of hours labour on mine.

Suggest phone a Porsche parts dept for a price on the fan itself.

https://www.design911.co.uk/p/porsche-981-991-heater-ac-blower-99157392201/

Welcome 👍

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225342991435?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=8xMc12cKTTW&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=N4q1bEX5R42&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

4 minutes ago, EXY said:

Just out of curiosity if this wasn't covered by warranty would you fix it at your own expense or live with it?

I’d try and source the spoiler motor , which is part of the frame from a donor car/salvager. Ballpark £150-200. 

1 minute ago, JurassicBGTS said:

Yes,

I have two. 

A Carlinkit from E**y that didn't work, I then bought the NMAUTOMOTIVE Carlinkit and it worked seamlessly in both my Macan and my 718 with my Samsung Android phone.

You plug it into the USB in the arm rest and it connects immediately. You can also plug your phone into it to keep it charged.

Only reason I don't use it is I "upgraded" my Android phone to a new I Phone.

The NMAUTOMOTIVE version is around £90 and has super support by them.

You can have mine for £45 which is cheaper than an E**y Chinese version if you like.

 

Sounds a good solution.

Funnily enough I was just looking at the link https://www.nmautomotive.co.uk/product-page/pcm-4-wireless-carplay-and-android-auto-add-on

1 minute ago, 718as said:

Agree, I just wanted to use AA.

If this don't work I will try and get it enabled from my friend on here 🙂

OK got it, sorry missed the context re AA.

Not what you asked and personal take but I don't get the wireless thing, just draining my phone in my pocket, whereas on the wire it's charging.

Anyway horses for courses , your car and your rules 👍

Taste test/check coolant level as above.

Nothing here re the boot/hatch but also looks like ingress from the front/door cards is also a thing. Linking this just in case that's also an issue for you

6 minutes ago, phazed said:

Thanks again, but what does that mean in English? The one on each bank before the Cat?

Exactly that. 

And as has been said you could try swapping them over with the others after the Cat to see if the problem moves or stays with the sensor. You may even find it's corrosion or the wiring.

Just now, phazed said:

Thanks guys. 👍
 

given there are four sensors, which ones seem to be faulty?

P0134 sensor ahead of cat. Conv, Bank 1

P0154 sensor ahead of Cat. Conv, Bank 2

P0154
Oxygen sensor upstream

NOTE
The fault "Over limit value" is detected if the oxygen sensor voltage is > 1.5 V
for an uninterrupted period of more than 5 s.

Diagnostic conditions
DME control module power supply 10.5 V … 16 V
Oxygen sensor heater switched on for > 70 s
Oxygen sensing active
Exhaust temperature 600 °C (1,112 °F)... 750 °C (1,382 °F)
min. 3 s overrun
No secondary air injection or diagnosis of secondary air system active
No tank ventilation or diagnosis of tank ventilation system active
No other oxygen-sensor faults stored

Possible fault causes
Fault in oxygen sensor heater A If this exists, is to be taken care of first
Loose contact or corrosion in the connector
Short circuit to B+/ground/between wires or open circuit in the wiring
Heater injection

Oxygen sensor faulty
DME control module faulty

P0134
Oxygen sensor upstream

NOTE
The fault "Over limit value" is detected if the oxygen sensor voltage is > 1.5 V
for an uninterrupted period of more than 5 s.

Diagnostic conditions
DME control module power supply 10.5 V … 16 V
Oxygen sensor heater switched on for > 70 s
Oxygen sensing active

Exhaust temperature 600 °C (1,112 °F)... 750 °C (1,382 °F) min. 3 s overrun
No secondary air injection or diagnosis of secondary air system active
No tank ventilation or diagnosis of tank ventilation system active
No other oxygen-sensor faults stored

Possible fault causes
Fault in oxygen sensor heater A If this exists, is to be taken care of first
Loose contact or corrosion in the connector
Short circuit to B+/ground/between wires or open circuit in the wiring
Heater injection
Oxygen sensor faulty
DME control module faulty

Mine had to be replaced.

4 minutes ago, mr.tourette23 said:

Yeah, fuse is fine, it's really odd as the car was fine pre lay up, I fully expected it to start running after spinning the fan 😒

Sorry missed you'd already stated that the fuse was ok.

1 minute ago, mr.tourette23 said:

Yeah, fuse is fine, it's really odd as the car was fine pre lay up, I fully expected it to start running after spinning the fan 😒

May sound daft but have you tried spinning it in both directions ? 

The process being

Hold the button down until the window goes down all the way - then hold it for about 10 seconds.

Do the same for the up motion.

1 hour ago, mr.tourette23 said:

Yeah, tried nudging it whilst running, spinning it with engine off, gone for a 50 mile spin in the hope it might spring back to life... nothing 😕. Well I did have a very satisfying first drive out after lay up😊 but slightly miffed about the fan still

Checked the fuse ?