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iborguk

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Posts posted by iborguk

  1. 47 minutes ago, Menoporsche said:

    There’s something called a rear control unit under the UK passenger seat, possibly your driver seat, which does that kind of thing. First place to look?

    ^This^

  2. Lifted from http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/59889-coolant-light-blinking.html

    1. Engine coolant level too low
    — light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz)
    2. Engine compartment temperature too high
    — light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) (engine compartment blower might be faulty)
    3. Engine coolant temperature too high
    — light is lit; pointer on the right
    4. Temperature sensor at water outlet faulty
    — light flashes rapidly (1 Hz); pointer on the right

  3. Just now, ½cwt said:

    Correct.  If you are lucky, a 12 point 10mm socket will give enough purchase to get them undone.

    Or it's an excuse to buy another set of tools. I got a set of E's from Eurocarparts for about a tenner, plenty of cheap options out there...

  4. 34 minutes ago, ATM said:

    Just remembered you need the weird sockets for the bolts. Forgot the name but it's like the female version of a torx.

    Some people use a standard 6 pointed hex but it can chew up the bolt heads. Especially the one at the centre rear which is the hardest to get to.

    I've had to replace some on my car which were chewed up before I got in there.

    20221217-121758.jpg

    E12 Torx iirc

  5. 44 minutes ago, anopenmind said:

    I guess that’s for the 2.9 (non-S) rather than the 3.4s?  Even then, looking on Autotrader there’s only one 2009+ car below £15k with a manual box.  Only three below £17k. 

    Or have I misunderstood what a Gen 2 car is?  I thought it was MY2009+?

    Kind of two factors there, not as many Gen2's were sold and a lot of them are PDK (don't knock it till you've tried it, although again I still like a manual too).

  6. 1 hour ago, moonshine said:

    Greasing wheel nuts IS bad practice as it can lead to overtorquing of the bolt.

    Porsche wheel nuts (when you buy 'em) are coated in Optimol Paste TA (referred to as Optimoly TA in Porsche docs)

    Here's a partial quote from a 2012, 987 doc re wheel nuts.

    "Apply a light coating of Optimoly TA (aluminium paste) to the thread, shank and under the head"

    997.2 version of the doc linked and a pic of what I keep in the garage.

    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwip1_fA2ciEAxXaXUEAHSguCmcQFnoECBIQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Frennlist.com%2Fforums%2Fattachments%2F997-forum%2F1316380d1598447728-suspension-components-torque-specs-wm-4001tw-997-2-torques.pdf&usg=AOvVaw2Bj5gOorDiblzezI1JFLGW&opi=89978449

     

    s-l1600.png

     

     

    • Like 2
  7. 17 hours ago, andy987 said:

    Checked the drain holes and noticed one of the ball joints on the hood mechanism had broke. They were also the white plastic type, I did this job years ago on another Boxster and remember getting the white plastic ones off Ebay.  

    Seems to be a lot more variety now though, some look 3D printed, or best to get Genuine ones?

    The originals are only available with the “arms”. As @Mattman42 said don’t get the metal ones, these are designed to break when the roof mechanism is under stress. However they also break when the plastic is old and brittle.

    Also check them arms aren’t bent when reinstalling.

     

    • Like 1
  8. 1 minute ago, JurassicBGTS said:

    Yes,

    I have two. 

    A Carlinkit from E**y that didn't work, I then bought the NMAUTOMOTIVE Carlinkit and it worked seamlessly in both my Macan and my 718 with my Samsung Android phone.

    You plug it into the USB in the arm rest and it connects immediately. You can also plug your phone into it to keep it charged.

    Only reason I don't use it is I "upgraded" my Android phone to a new I Phone.

    The NMAUTOMOTIVE version is around £90 and has super support by them.

    You can have mine for £45 which is cheaper than an E**y Chinese version if you like.

     

    Sounds a good solution.

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